Category: FRAGRANCE REVIEWS

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Sophie Berdoues Interview: Four Generations Of Perfumery

Berdoues

Heritage is a valuable commodity in the perfume industry, and Berdoues has it in abundance. Founded in 1902 by barber Guillaume Berdoues, the French company has remained a family-owned business over four generations and is currently led by the founder’s great grand-daughter, Sophie Berdoues.

I first heard of the brand last year when its Collection Grands Crus was launched in South Africa (its older collection 1902 might be launched in the country at a later stage).

For obvious reasons, travel is a popular source of inspiration in perfumery. This range of 12 mostly unisex EDPs makes the most of it with an impressive variety of fairly straightforward, feel-good blends that evoke destinations such as Japan (Somei Yoshino), Tahiti (Vânira Moorea), Lebanon (Arz el-Rab) and Costa Rica (Guaria Morada), among others.

Image: MapStudio.

I got to try all of the EDPs that are available in the country at a media launch in Cape Town in February this year. Two, in particular, have become regulars in my fragrance wardrobe.

Taking its cue from the Amazon rainforest and created by Jennifer Riley, Selva do Brazil opens with a super-fresh note of petitgrain from Paraguay. It’s sharp, invigorating and lushly green in character. Notes of tonka bean from Brazil and guaiac wood from Argentina add to the forest-y ambience. It’s a simple composition, but never fails to give me a mood boost.

Berdoues

Created by Philippe Romano, Maasaï Mara is a mellower and warmer, but equally appealing affair. I don’t get the listed opening note of blue camomile from Egypt, but the combo of amber-y labdanum from Spain and buchu from South Africa, with its fruity nuances, do a fine job of conjuring a uniquely African landscape.

Berdoues

I got to interview Sophie Berdoues via email about the importance of heritage, the collection and her work.

What is your main responsibility as president of the company?

I develop and lead the company’s strategy with my team. We define the general objectives, but I leave the final decisions about the financial, material and human resources to execute within the guidelines and decisions taken. I also lead the company’s management committee and am responsible for its results.

What’s the best part of your job?

The team work and launch of new projects.

And the most stressful?

Sometimes having to make important decisions for the business alone.

Berdoues is very much about heritage. Why is it so important to you?

My father, like my grandfather, spent a lot of time and energy to develop high-quality perfumes. My father passed on to me the passion for perfumery, raw materials and, above all, freedom. I am deeply attached to my roots – they give me the strength to move forward with my convictions.

“I am deeply attached to my roots – they give me the strength to move forward with my convictions.”

Berdoues
FAMILY WAY: Sophie Berdoues is very proud of her family’s perfume heritage, which includes, clockwise from top right, her father Pierre, her grandfather Henri and great-grandfather Guillaume. Images: Berdoues.
Why did you launch the Collection Grand Crus?

We wanted to give a nod to my family through perfumes highlighting the most beautiful raw materials of perfumery, which I started to smell at a very young age. This is what seduced my family at the beginning of this story and today our consumers. We wanted to tell a story of travel through natural materials selected for their olfactory qualities – blends like the great French wines.

What criteria do you use for the perfumers who create the fragrances for the Collection?

It all starts with cards, photos, desires and a blank sheet. The destination inspires our perfumers. A lived or fantasised memory, it reveals a world region which, for us, carries history. This creation builds the search for materials where it is best expressed olfactively. The beauty of the world is endless, and so are our creations.

The fragrances are very reasonably priced. How did you achieve that?

We made the strategic choice of placing the entire budget in what is most important to us: perfume. And there, it’s my roots that speak. We have surrounded ourselves with perfumers based in Grasse, the cradle of perfumery in the south of France. For the other aspects of product creation, we have chosen to work with a standard bottle that we have dressed. We also work with local partners for all items of the product.

Berdoues fragrances are available from selected Foschini and Truworths stores. R1 595 for 100ml. 

*This post is sponsored by Orleans Cosmetics, the distributor of Berdoues Collection Grands Crus in South Africa.*

 

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Best Chanel Fragrances For Every Situation

Best Chanel Fragrances

Chanel has been in the fragrance biz since 1921. What an auspicious debut Chanel No 5 proved to be! Almost a century later, the company has maintained its reputation for elegant and timeless compositions, and there’s no shortage of contenders for a best Chanel fragrances list.

This is a considerable achievement when you consider how many brands have allowed their heritage to be diluted at the expense of quick cash. Instead, Chanel has made heritage and the life of its unique founder an integral part of its lucrative perfume business.

“Chanel has made heritage and the life of its unique founder an integral part of its lucrative perfume business.”

With an impressive mix of classics and new launches, Chanel offers discerning fragrance consumers the ideal selection of options for every situation. I’ve rounded up some of the best in a variety of categories, including classic, casual, work, romantic night out, summer and winter.

The name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance. If you’re wondering why the same perfumers’ names keep on popping up on this list, that’s because Chanel, in the tradition of the grand maisons of old, relies on the expertise of their in-house perfumer.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – CLASSIC
CHANEL NO 5 EDP (JACQUES POLGE)

To quote Julie Andrews in The Sound of Music, “Let’s start at the very beginning, a very good place to start.” Without hubris, I can confidently say that Chanel set the standard for modern perfumery in 1921 when she briefed Russian-born nose Ernest Beaux to create “a woman’s perfume with a woman’s scent”.

Chanel No 5 was revolutionary in a number of ways. Unlike many of the perfumes that were popular at the time, it didn’t focus on one specific note. Most importantly, it showcased the compound aldehydes, with its fizzy soapiness, to spectacular effect.

In 1986, Jacques Polge reinterpreted the original in an EDP concentration. Its aldehydic opening is enhanced by citrus notes of neroli and bergamot. A large shot of ylang-ylang introduces a rich yellow floral dimension to the composition. It’s followed by an elaborate bouquet of iris, May rose, lily-of-the-valley and jasmine notes in the fragrance’s heart. Sandalwood and vanilla make for memorable partners in the smooth and sensual drydown.

Even if you do find it too “mature”, there’s no getting away from the influence of Chanel No 5.

Best Chanel Fragrances

CHANEL COCO EDP (JACQUES POLGE)

Launched in 1984, Coco bears all the hallmarks of the decade. It’s big, bold and brash – by Chanel standards. And I mean that as a compliment.

A brief Sicilian mandarin note gives way to the distinctive spiciness of coriander. There’s more spice in the form of cloves. They can sometimes be overly domineering, but here they’re perfectly balanced by notes of Bulgarian rose, Tunisian orange blossom, jasmine absolute and ylang-ylang from the Comoros.

As to be expected from an oriental, the drydown is rich and dense. Notes of Indonesian patchouli, benzoin and tonka bean work together to create a thoroughly grown-up fragrance that oozes retro glamour.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – CASUAL
CHANEL NO 5 L’EAU EDT (OLIVIER POLGE)

There’s no denying the all-time classic credentials of Chanel No 5. But there are those who feel that the parfum and EDP versions are too heavy and, dare I say it, old-fashioned.

It’s for these reasons that the French luxury fashion brand took the big step in 2016 of launching a lighter version of its icon. Ostensibly aimed at a generation of younger women who wanted to be modern without smelling like their mothers and grandmothers, Chanel No 5 L’Eau is my casual choice.

The intro is all freshness, with notes of lemon, mandarin and orange in play. There’s no mistaking the soapy presence of aldehydes in the opening, albeit more toned down than the original. The richness of ylang-ylang takes the lead in the floral heart, with hints of jasmine and rose in the background. Musk dominates the drydown and completes what is a very worthwhile addition to the Chanel No 5 franchise.

Best Chanel Fragrances

LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL 1957 EDP (OLIVIER POLGE)

The latest addition to the upmarket Les Exclusifs de Chanel private collection is undoubtedly a Chanel creation. It has a deceptive simplicity about it.

The opening has a fresh, clean, almost-soapy quality, courtesy of the bergamot and aldehyde notes. The notes of orange blossom and jasmine bring a delicate floral aspect, while orris adds just the right amount of powderiness.

There’s also an interesting contrast between spicy pink pepper and coriander and slightly sweet vanilla and honey notes. Further interest is added by a woodiness in the base, thanks to the cedar note.

None of these elements dominate the scent, as Chanel 1957 is really about its beautiful musk accord, which is present through the various stages of the fragrance. It gives the fragrance a cosy, easy-going elegance.

It’s a chic skin scent in which the best ingredients have been used to create it.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – WORK
CHANEL ALLURE EDP (JACQUES POLGE)

We all know how increasingly tricky the work fragrance scenario is. Something that will make you stand out, without offending the sensitivities of others. Which is why I can’t think of a better office option than this multi-dimensional 1999 release. It gets the balance between power and subtlety oh so right.

It begins in fresh citrus territory with pronounced notes of mandarin orange and lemon. Peach adds a slightly fruity element. Featuring notes of honeysuckle, jasmine, water lily, magnolia and freesia, the heart is floral a-go-go, without any of the associated sweetness, but more on the fresh side of things. They are complemented by a delicate touch of rose.

After all that fresh, fruity and floral action, Allure takes on an oriental character in the drydown with a big dose of quality vanilla that’s supported by creamy sandalwood.

As with many Chanel fragrances, it’s also available in EDT and parfum versions.

Best Chanel Fragrances

CHANEL CRISTALLE EAU VERTE EDT CONCENTREE (JACQUES POLGE)

One of the lesser-known Chanel fragrances, this 2009 flanker to the 1974 original is well worth sniffing out. Inspired by the designer’s love of the outdoors, it works a treat when you’re all cooped up behind your computer screen, thanks to its fresh, floral and green accents.

Featuring notes of bergamot and Amalfi lemon, the opening epitomises sparkling freshness. Neroli continues the theme in the heart of the scent, with its bitter-sweet nuances. A note of magnolia brings a floral aspect – it’s crisp and opulent at the same time – while jasmine infuses it with a delicate sweetness.

Settling with a musky drydown, this EDT doesn’t have the best longevity. So I recommend keeping it in your bag for the occasional, refreshing top-up.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – ROMANTIC NIGHT OUT 
CHANEL CHANCE TENDRE EDP (OLIVIER POLGE)

Just when I’d given up on many modern fruity florals, along comes the youthful Chanel Chance Tendre to restore my faith in the popular genre. Launched in 2019, it’s the fourth addition to the range that originally made its debut in 2003.

Notes of grapefruit and quince set the citrus-fruity mood. What relief! There’s none of the screechy sweetness that’s prevalent in so many other examples. It’s soft and most appealing. The fragrance really comes into its own when jasmine absolute and rose essence make their presence felt. A sophisticated floralcy to be enjoyed by you and your date.

And then there’s the musk, which brings it all together in a very skilful and romantic way.

It’s not a reinvention of the fruity floral as we know it, but it’s certainly a masterly fine-tuning of it.

Best Chanel Fragrances

GABRIELLE CHANEL ESSENCE EDP (OLIVIER POLGE)

As with its predecessor, Gabrielle Chanel EDP, this 2019 release is inspired by the maverick spirit of Coco Chanel. The new version isn’t a radical departure from the original but, like any worthwhile flanker, offers something different in its own right – a richer and denser character.

It opens with a light and fresh sprinkle of citrus notes, while a red berry note is just discernible in the background. This is a white floral fragrance when the heart notes come into play. Olivier Polge has not skimped on the ingredients, which include jasmine, ylang-ylang from the Comoros, Tunisian orange blossom and an exclusive variety of tuberose. Together, they create an enticingly luxurious effect with just the right amount of sweetness.

The tuberose is the star of the show, but it doesn’t smother the other florals. It’s typically creamy, but with a refined freshness. That elegant mood carries through to the drydown, where white musk predominates, with sandalwood and vanilla in support.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – SUMMER  
CHANEL NO 19 EDP (HENRI ROBERT)

Launched in 1970 and created by Ernest Beaux’s successor, Chanel No 19 refers to the birth date of Coco Chanel, who was born on August 19, 1883. It was also the last Chanel fragrance to be created while the grande dame was still alive (she died in 1971). Historical significance aside, I love this classic for its unusual floral-woody-green character.

It begins with citrus-fresh notes of bergamot and neroli. But they are secondary to the large dose of galbanum, which gives this EDP its outstanding bitter-green profile. Iris pallida softens the initial impact with powderiness, while notes of ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose bring floral intensity to the mix. The woody base notes of oakmoss and vetiver keep it resolutely sharp.

Fifty years after its initial launch, this EDP remains a complex and compelling beauty. It’s probably the least crowd-pleasing Chanel fragrance.

Best Chanel Fragrances

CHANEL PARIS-RIVIERA EDT (OLIVIER POLGE)

Chanel launched its new collection, Les Eaux, in 2018, with three fragrances inspired by destinations that were significant to Coco Chanel: Paris-Venise, Paris-Biarritz and Paris-Deauville. I was immediately smitten by the quality and fresh tone of these releases. The latest addition to the range, launched in 2019, Chanel Paris-Riviera, has had the same effect on me.

For Paris-Riviera, Olivier Polge took inspiration from the happy and exciting time in her life on the Côte d’Azur. It’s perfectly reflected in the gentle juice, in which nothing feels heavy-handed or out of place

The EDT opens with the range’s signature freshness, this time in the form of orange peel and petitgrain notes. They are given a soft treatment. A special type of neroli sourced by the house, which amplifies the opening, is blended with jasmine for a bright citrus-floral effect. The jasmine flows seamlessly to the drydown, where a light creamy sandalwood note is paired with vanilla-ish benzoin balm.

Get your hands on this limited edition before May 2020.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – WINTER  
CHANEL COCO NOIR EDP (JACQUES POLGE & CHRISTOPHER SHELDRAKE)

In a fragrance world where flankers are often a case of ever-diminishing returns, you can rely on Chanel to give you a very good reason to spend your hard-earned cash on another extension to one of their best ranges.

Launched in 2012, Coco Noir takes its inspiration from the fashion legend’s love of black and Venice. It’s a suitably baroque affair with oriental flair.

The intro of bergamot, orange and grapefruit notes is deceptively citrus-fresh, but deliciously sensual. It doesn’t take long for rose to reveal its romantic intentions. And who can say no to such a lush take on the queen of flowers? A geranium leaf note adds to the rosiness. The base belongs to patchouli in all its rich, dark and exotic glory. Tonka bean and sandalwood bring warm creaminess to the composition.

I’ve recommended this one for winter, but it would work equally well for a romantic night out.

Best Chanel Fragrances

CHANEL COCO MADEMOISELLE EDP INTENSE (OLIVIER POLGE)

When Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum was launched in 2001, it became another huge success for the French luxury brand. Created by Jacques Polge, this floriental made its mark on a generation of women with its contrasts of fresh citrus and sensual patchouli.

Olivier Polge, le fils de Jacques Polge (excuse my basic French), created a worthy successor to Coco Chanel Mademoiselle EDP with Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense, which was launched in 2018.

It opens with the familiar citrus burst of the original, but then Indonesian patchouli has been pumped to the max, with rose and jasmine in close support. The sensual aspect has also been amplified with Madagascan vanilla and tonka bean. This all adds up to create a more sophisticated scent.

My sources tell me that a new version of Coco Mademoiselle is to be launched this year.

Best Chanel Fragrances

*All fragrances available at Edgars, except Chanel 1957, which is only available at the Sandton City (Johannesburg) and V&A Waterfront (Cape Town) stores.

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Best Incense Fragrances: The Smoky Edition

Incense Fragrances

Incense has been used over the centuries in a variety of religious, spiritual and cultural practices from China and Japan to India and Arabia. The smell of burning incense and the waft of its smoke continues to enchant perfume-lovers. As you would expect, incense fragrances tend to have an oriental vibe.

I’ve included a variety of incense fragrances on this list, from those where it is the dominant note to those where there’s just a hint of it. Not everyone goes for the full incense experience.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Do you have any favourite incense fragrances?

Incense Fragrances

AMOUAGE INTERLUDE WOMAN EDP* (KARINE VINCHON SPEHNER)

There’s a lot happening in this multi-layered 2012 release from the Oman-based niche fragrance house, but these are some of the highlights.

Opulent honey-tinged marigolds are the first to catch my attention in the opening, followed by a herbal dose of immortelle. But it’s the seductive smoke from the frankincense and myrrh that gets me every time. The drydown maintains the sensual atmosphere. Leather, sandalwood, tonka bean, musk and a smidgeon of oud are all discernible in the luxe mix.

ORTO PARISI TERRONI PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)

Maverick Italian perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri prefers to explain the distinctive creations from his niche fragrance brand through story-telling, instead of notes. While some perfume stories tell you nothing, the one for this 2017 release says it all.

Inspired by the volcanic land surrounding Mount Vesuvius, it’s suitably earthy and fiery with stand-out notes of dark cocoa, berries, vetiver and patchouli. Dark and smoky incense weaves its way throughout the scent.

This is a potent parfum, so spray lightly when applying it, as it lasts forever and a day. Also look out for Gualtieri’s infamous cannabis-infused Black Afgano from his other niche fragrance company, Nasomatto, which has a strong incense element.

Incense Fragrances

ZADIG ET VOLTAIRE JUST ROCK! POUR LUI EDT (NATHALIE LORSON & AURELIEN GUICHARD)

The French fashion label is popular for its rock-chic aesthetic. What’s less well-known is that it has several quality fragrances. Officially marketed at men, but perfectly unisex, Just Rock! Pour Lui is one of their best.

This 2017 release opens with the warm, vanilla-ish overtones of tonka bean, which is further enhanced by a black vanilla note. The incense note makes its presence felt early in the fragrance’s progression. Sophisticated yet accessible, it’s complemented by a twist of spice, settling on a base of earthy patchouli.

A simple, but effective composition, it’s one of the the best-priced incense fragrances you’ll find.

Incense Fragrances

GUERLAIN SHALIMAR EDP (JACQUES GUERLAIN)

There are many reasons to always have a bottle of Guerlain Shalimar in your fragrance wardrobe. Some of these include:

  • It’s an all-time classic that has lost none of its magnificence since its launch in 1925.
  • It’s widely celebrated as the first oriental perfume.
  • Inspired by the great love between Indian Emperor Shah Jahan and his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, it’s gorgeously romantic.

It will take you on an olfactory journey through bergamot, iris, jasmine, rose vanilla and tonka bean notes. The incense in the drydown is smoky and sensual. It makes its presence felt without spelling it out.

Incense Fragrances

MEMO SIWA EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)

Paris-based niche fragrance house Memo is highly regarded for their leather range, Cuir Nomades, which includes African, French and Irish versions. From their Graines Vagabondes collection, Siwa is also worthy of your attention. It’s inspired by the Siwa urban oasis in the Egyptian part of the Sahara Desert.

This 2007 release opens in spicy mode with a note of cinnamon leaf oil, followed by slightly sweet notes of narcissus absolute and freesia, featuring green nuances. Vanilla dominates the drydown, while a gentle take on the incense theme accentuates the oriental mood.

For a heavier take on incense, sniff out Memo Tiger’s Nest.

Incense Fragrances

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PASSAGE D’ENFER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

Founded in the 1970s in Paris, L’Artisan Parfumeur is one of the niche fragrance industry’s pioneers. Its well-earned reputation is based on top-quality classics such as Passage d’Enfer, which was launched in 1999.

A tribute to the company’s original office and a play on words (“hell’s passage”), it makes the most of the religious connotations of the genre with pronounced notes of cedar and incense evoking a peaceful ambience. Incense fragrances can sometimes be austere. This one avoids that in the drydown. White lily and amber add sweetness to the blend, while white musk softens the edges.

For an EDT, this is surprisingly powerful stuff and lingers on the skin and clothing many hours after application.

Incense Fragrances

EX NIHILO OUD VENDOME EDP* (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

The Paris-based niche brand specialises in luxurious fragrances made from the best ingredients, and Oud Vendôme is typical of its modern approach to perfumery.

The intro is delicately spicy with notes of ginger and saffron, transitioning to a heart that balances green galbanum and woody cedar. The combo of precious agarwood and soothing incense in the drydown is super-smooth and sophisticated. A big dose of musk brings cosiness to the mix.

This 2014 woody oriental has a decidedly Western feel. Nothing wrong with that when it’s this chic.

Incense Fragrances

ELLA K BAISER DE FLORENCE* (SONIA CONSTANT)

From Jean Paul Gaultier La Belle and Montblanc Lady Emblem L’Eau to Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc for Her and Tom Ford Orchid Soleil, Sonia Constant is one of my favourite perfumers.

The Parisian founded her own niche fragrance company in 2017 and Baiser de Florence, inspired by a visit to a Florentine church, was one of her first releases.

This is primarily an iris fragrance, a suitably powdery and cool one at that, but it’s the trail of incense that keeps me coming back for more. Wood and musk complete the soft and romantic mood.

Incense Fragrances

YSL CAFTAN EDP (CALICE BECKER)

Launched in 2015, this EDP is from the French fashion brand’s perfume wardrobe-inspired Le Vestiaire des Parfums private collection. It was created by the brilliant Calice Becker (Kilian Back to Black, Dior J’Adore, Giorgio Armani Ambre Eccentrico), so you know you’re in for a treat.

There’s a brief, barely noticeable citrus intro, but that’s okay, because we’re here for the rich, resinous smokiness of olibanum (frankincense), benzoin and styrax. What a seductive trio – all bringing out the best in each other!

The luxurious oriental mood continues through to the drydown, with labdanum in deep ambery mode. A dash of musk heightens the warmth.

Incense Fragrances

KILIAN INCENSE OUD EDP* (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR)

For a more intense oud and incense experience, you can’t go wrong with this 2011 release from the niche fragrance company founded by Kilian Hennessy. As the heir to the luxury cognac dynasty, he’s au fait with all things luxury, and Incense Oud delivers that in abundance.

A rich rose in full bloom sets the scene for the scent, with warm spicy notes of cardamom and pink pepper in the background. Patchouli accentuates the opulent vibe. It doesn’t take long for the precious oud and smoky incense to come through. Deep stuff! Sandalwood adds just the right amount of creaminess.

Incense Fragrances

ROOS & ROOS MENTHA RELIGIOSA EDP (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

French niche fragrance house Roos & Roos was founded in 2014 by beauty industry veteran Chantal Roos and her daughter, Alexandra. Mentha Religiosa won the Fragrance Foundation’s best independent perfume award in 2017 for good reason. It’s full of intriguing contrasts.

It makes a cool and fresh first impression with sharp notes of citrusy bergamot and peppery mint. Things warm up in the drydown where incense takes the leading role. It’s the kind you’d smell at a Catholic mass. Notes of patchouli and cedar provide earthy and woody support.

Incense Fragrances
Image: roosandroos.fr

*Available at Skins Cosmetics.

 

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I’m A Video Star (Sort Of)

Okay, so that “video star” title could go down as a classic example of clickbait. But there’s a teeny-weeny bit of truth to it, too.

I was contacted a while ago by the très charmant French vlogger Clémence CC Fragrance to check if I would mind her using a story I wrote, 6 New Rules of Wearing Cologne (Plus 2 Old Ones), for an American  website last year as inspiration for a post of hers. And had completely forgotten about it, until she got in touch with me.

People don’t always acknowledge their inspiration, so I was doubly impressed. First, by the initial contact and then the actual post itself. Clémence knows all about great production values.

You can see the results below and Clémence’s other posts here. She’s definitely someone to watch.

GET MOVING

Now, back to the video star thing. I’ve been um-ing and ah-ing about moving to video, in some form or other, for yonks. I even created a very Fragroom basic YouTube channel some time ago. As we all know, there’s been a huge shift to vlogging in the last few years and, as a media creature, it’s important to add news skills to the repertoire.

“What’s holding me back? A mix of procrastination, perfectionism, self-consciousness, fear and the need to offer something different.”

I know all of this, so what’s holding me back? A mix of procrastination (it’s taken me a few weeks just to commit to this post), perfectionism, self-consciousness, fear and the need to offer something different. The same things that kept me from launching my blog, until I eventually just jumped and got over myself.

Video Star
UBER-INFLUENCER: Jeremy Fragrance. Image: jeremyfragrance.com.

So will 2020 be the year I become a true video star à la Jeremy Fragrance? Well, that’s not my aim, although I am in awe of his supreme confidence. But I do know I have to be a brave boy and just start somewhere… You will be the first to know when I’ve crossed the threshold.

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Dunhill Signature Collection Review

Dunhill Signature

The growth of private collections continues to gather momentum. Launched in 2019 with relatively little publicity, Dunhill Signature epitomises what these ranges are all about. Superior ingredients, an emphasis on craftsmanship and luxury, and limited distribution. These are all nods to the growing influence of the niche category in perfumery.

Dunhill Signature

However, Dunhill brings its own angle to the trend (come to think of it, it’s more of a standard now than a trend) – a focus on travel and adventure, while balancing tradition and modernity. This should come as no surprise. After all, the British luxury goods brand was in the automobiles accessories biz in one of its various incarnations in the 20th century.

“These are all nods to the growing influence of the niche category in perfumery. “

The launch collection (presumably more will be added) consists of four different fragrances. They were created by a mix of established and up-and-coming perfumers. I’ve listed the name of the perfumer in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Dunhill Signature
PERFUME TALENT: The Dunhill Signature fragrances were created by, clockwise from top left, Alexandra Monet, Carlos Benaïm, Gino Percontino and Pierre Negrin.
INDIAN SANDALWOOD EDP (CARLOS BENAIM)

An award-winning perfume legend, Benaim has a succession of standout creations to his name. These include Antonio Puig Quorum EDT, Calvin Klein Eternity For Men EDT, Frédéric Malle Music For A While EDP and Dunhill Icon EDP. His expertise is clearly evident in this scent.

It opens with the fresh and sunny citrus hues of bergamot and continues to warm up, in an earthy way, with the addition of green tree and patchouli notes. Sandalwood comes through seamlessly in the drydown. Rich, without being overpowering, it has a creamy, almost coconut-y vibe.

Verdict: Woody and warm, it evokes an Indian summer in semi-tropical style.

Dunhill Signature

MOROCCAN AMBER EDP (GINO PERCONTINO)

I’m not familiar with Percontino’s creations for brands such as Anthropologie, Banana Republic, Phlur and Hollister, among others. But judging by the sterling job he’s done with Moroccan Amber, he’s a perfumer to watch in the future.

The intro is all spice, featuring big wafts of sweet cardamom. I also get teeny-weeny hints of ginger and coriander, although they are not officially listed notes. The spice keeps coming with saffron, which has soft leather undertones. The base of amber is typically warm and cosy, but Percontino keeps the sweetness in check with a rugged earthiness.

Verdict: An oriental that gets the balance between sweet and spicy just right.

Dunhill Signature

BRITISH LEATHER EDP (PIERRE NEGRIN)

With creation such as Amouage Interlude Man EDP, Ermenegildo Zegna Indonesian Oud EDP and Ralph Lauren Polo Black EDT, Negrin needs no introduction. The French perfumer was the perfect choice to give Dunhill’s leather heritage a contemporary spin.

The inherent bitterness of bergamot is amplified at the beginning of this fragrance. Is that a hint of cardamom in the background? The violet leaf that follows pushes it in a green direction. This bitter green aspect is brought to the fore by an infusion of mate tea, which lays the foundation for the leather accord in the drydown. It’s a lived-in leather that’s cooler in character than its stable mates.

Verdict: A distinctive leather that’s full of character and creases.

Dunhill Signature

ARABIAN DESERT EDP (ALEXANDRA MONET)

No private fragrance collection is complete without an oud, and Arabian Desert was placed in the capable hands of Monet. She is known for her accomplished work for brands such as Berdoues, The Different Company and Kenzo.

This EDP displays its charms from the start. Rosy pink peppercorns set the oriental mood, with citrus bergamot and spicy saffron in support. The heart features floral notes of rose and jasmine, which are treated most delicately. Rose and oud is a popular combo, and Monet gives it plenty of sensual smoke in the drydown.

Verdict: A sweetish, but not too sweet, take on oud that’s smoothly seductive.

Dunhill Signature

There’s a deceptive simplicity to these Dunhill Signature fragrances. Unlike its more mass market fragrances, their streamlined structure allows individual ingredients to breathe more.

The bottles also deserve a mention. Taking their cue from the brand’s automotive heritage, they take the solid design of the Icon collection to new levels of modern elegance with their structures of transparent glass and metal tops.

For a private fragrance collection, these EDPs are also very reasonably priced at R2 299 for 100ml.

The Dunhill Signature collection is available in South Africa at Edgars, Truworths and Foschini stores.

 

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Perfumed Travels: Diptyque Eau Capitale + Lady Hamilton Hotel Review

Diptyque Eau Capitale

Judging by all the online reviews I am seeing (and avoiding reading, in case I’m influenced by them), Diptyque Eau Capitale is the first big niche release of 2020 (although it was officially launched late last year).

I was recently in Cape Town for business and brought Diptyque Eau Capitale with me as my fragrance companion. There’s nothing like spending uninterrupted time with a perfume to really get a proper sense of it. It’s kind of like spending time away with a partner – for better and for worse.

Diptyque Eau Capitale

INSPIRATION

Since its founding in 1961, Diptyque has been synonymous with Paris and all its unique facets of arts, culture, literature and architecture. With Diptyque Eau Capitale, the niche fragrance brand is at last paying tribute to the city that’s such an integral part of its identity.

“Diptyque Eau Capitale is significant in that it’s the house’s first chypre fragrance.”

Diptyque Eau Capitale is also significant in that it’s the house’s first chypre fragrance. As part of its homage to Paris, the company thought it would be fitting to release a chypre – perhaps the most classical of perfumes, as epitomised by François Coty’s 1917 masterpiece.

SO WHAT DOES DIPTYqUE EAU CAPITALE SMELL LIKE?

Olivier Pescheux, who has produced several acclaimed scents for the brand over the years, including 34 Boulevard Saint Germain, Eau des Sens, Vetyverio and Tempo, was a natural choice to create this latest addition.

Diptyque Eau Capitale
MAISON FRIEND: Olivier Pescheux has created several successful fragrances for Diptyque. Image: Givaudan.

The intro to the scent belongs to the citrus hues of Italian bergamot. It’s fresh, zesty and slightly bitter in all the best ways. A twist of peppercorn brings spicy rosiness to the proceedings, setting the scene for the full-on heart of rose. Sourced from Turkey and Bulgaria, this is no lady-like take on the queen of florals. It’s rich, fruity, in full bloom, almost dirty. Ylang-ylang from the Comoros, not usually known for its sedateness, is very much in the background. For the drydown, Pescheux maximises the deep, dark and earthy qualities of Indonesian heart of patchouli and Haitian vetiver.

Some people are comparing Diptyque Eau Capitale with the Frédéric Malle tour de force Portrait of A Lady, not always favourably or fairly. Perhaps, because they both have dominant notes of rose and patchouli. These are very, very different fragrances and should be judged on their own merits. It’s not an either/or situation. Diptyque Eau Capitale stands out in its own right.

If longevity and sillage are priorities for you when buying a perfume, this EDP won’t disappoint. It’s one of the most potent I’ve smelled in a long time.

The fragrance proved to be the perfect travel partner. Present and engaging, but not suffocating. Intriguing, multi-dimensional and stimulating, yet approachable. Versatile and memorable.

Diptyque Eau Capitale is available at Skins Cosmetics. Look out for my interview with Olivier Pescheux in my next blog post.

Diptyque Eau Capitale

LADY HAMILTON HOTEL, GARDENS, CAPE TOWN

One of Cape Town’s most famous landmarks is the swanky Mount Nelson. Unfortunately, my blogger income wouldn’t allow me to set up temporary home at the five-star hotel. After some research, I came across another charming pink lady, in close proximity to the grande dame, the Lady Hamilton Hotel.

THE GRANDE DAME: The Mount Nelson Hotel.

Sure, this three-star hotel is a bit frayed around the edges, part of its charm I think. But it more than compensates with its:

  • Location, location, location – it’s close to buzzing Kloof Street, Table Mountain and the centre of the city.
  • Amiable and helpful staff.
  • Tasty buffet breakfast (included in the rate).
  • Facilities such as free WiFi, bar and complimentary tea and coffee in the lounge;
  • Pool area – although I didn’t actually do the water baby thing, I spent my downtime getting horizontal on one of the deck chairs.

Apart from providing a comfortable base for my Cape Town trip, the Lady Hamilton Hotel also provided a fab boho-colonial setting for the Diptyque Eau Capitale pics featured in this post.

Disclaimer: I paid for two nights (R890 per night on a bed and breakfast basis) for a standard twin room with shower at the hotel and was given one night free in exchange for coverage on my blog. For more information on the hotel and bookings, read here.

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Fruity Fragrances Mix (Who Says They’re All Too Sweet)

Fruity Fragrances

Styles come and go, but the popularity of fruity fragrances (in particular fruity florals in recent years) shows no signs of abating. There’s a huge variety of fruity fragrances on offer. Popular notes include peach, pear, plum, fig, apricot, black currant and lychee. More exotic options include goji berries, maninka and dragon fruit.

This list does not include citrus fragrances, as justifiably they belong to a whole category in themselves. Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Do you have any favourite fruity fragrances?

Fruity Fragrances

DIPTYQUE FLORABELLIO EDT* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

The Paris-based niche fragrance house has been producing standout scents since the 1960s. Launched in 2015, Florabellio is an unusual, yet softly evocative scent. Strictly speaking, it’s a floral scent, but it’s got fruity nuances, hence its inclusion on this list.

It opens with marine and sea salt accents, with a hint of herbal fennel in the background. These blend seamlessly with apple blossom and osmanthus (with its apricot qualities). A waft of coffee is discernible throughout.

It’s a great example of how contrasts can be treated in a subtle and sophisticated way.

Fruity Fragrances

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PREMIER FIGUIER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

Diptyque Philosykos is seen by many people as the gold standard of fig perfumes. But it would be remiss of me not to also point you in the direction of the first fig fragrance, Premier Figuier. Both were created by the same perfumer.

Launched in 1994, it brilliantly captures its inspiration of lying under the shade of a fig tree in sunny Provence. It begins in fresh, green territory with a note of fig leaf that’s followed by ripe fig. A milky, woody ambience is created through a combination of almond milk, sandalwood and coconut notes.

Want a more intense and darker fig experience? Then try L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier Extrême EDP.

Fruity Fragrances

FREDERIC MALLE LE PARFUM DE THERESE EDP* (EDMOND ROUDNITSKA)

We can thank Edmond Roudnitska for classics such as Dior Diorissimo, Eau d’Hermès and Femme Rochas. We can also thank him for this innovative composition that was originally created in the 1950s. The legendary French perfumer produced it for the exclusive use of his wife, Thérèse. She gave the formula to Frédéric Malle when he launched his niche fragrance company at the beginning of the century.

Opening with fresh notes of melon and cucumber, it richens with the appearance of prune, rose and jasmine notes. It eventually settles on a woody base of patchouli and vetiver.

Complex and intriguing, it’s unlike any fruity fragrance I’ve smelled before.

Fruity Fragrances

LE LABO AMBRETTE 9 EDP* (MICHEL ALMAIRAC)

This 2006 release from the NYC-based niche fragrance house is all the proof you need that fruity fragrances needn’t be sticky sweet. They can actually be clinical, cool and as chic as hell.

Ambrette (also known as musk mallow) is a natural form of musk. It’s undoubtedly the star of this scent show, but the mix of citrus and fruit (particularly pear) makes a notable contribution too.

It’s a soft take on the fruity fragrances theme and gets the balance between slightly sweet and sour just right.

Fruity Fragrances

DIOR BELLE DE JOUR EDP (FRANCOIS DEMACHY)

Fruity florals have been one of the big fragrance trends in recent years, but can be strident and sickly sweet. From the French luxury fashion brand’s exclusive La Collection Privée, Belle de Jour is none of these things.

A rose note with fruity accents takes the leading role in this composition. It’s skilfully paired with dollops of juicy pear and peach, bringing just the right amount of sweetness to the sensual affair. Woodiness and powderiness give complexity to the drydown.

Although not as “sexy” as the brand claims, Belle de Jour is the epitome of Dior elegance.

Fruity Fragrances

TOM FORD LOST CHERRY EDP (LOUISE TURNER)

The American designer knows how to grab our attention with a provocative name. His latest release is called Rose Prick and then there was the none-too-subtle Fucking Fabulous from 2017. But fortunately, there’s more to his fragrances than just marketing tricks.

Launched in 2018, Lost Cherry makes a decadent statement from the opening notes of cherry and cherry liqueur. A bitter almond note provides pleasing contrast. The theme of sweet and sour continues through to the heart of the scent, featuring jasmine sambac and Turkish rose notes.

After all that excess, it behaves itself on a base of tonka bean, Peru balsam and sandalwood notes.

Fruity Fragrances

BRITNEY SPEARS MIDNIGHT FANTASY EDP** (CAROLINE SABAS)

If you like your fruit juicy and sticky, Britney Spears Midnight Fantasy is your girl. As with all Britney Spears fragrances, this 2006 release doesn’t hold back and is what you might call a guilty pleasure. The fact that it can be bought for next to nothing adds to the sense of cheap thrills.

The opening notes of raspberry, black cherry and plum announce their fruity intentions with flamboyance. They are followed by a floral display of iris, orchid and freesia notes.

Unashamedly sweet all the way to the base notes of amber and vanilla, it’s got the fun and youthful factor in abundance.

Fruity Fragrances

DOLCE & GABBANA THE ONE FOR WOMEN EDP** (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

As a floriental fragrance Dolce & Gabbana The One EDP is opulent in all the right ways. Originally launched in 2006, it’s lost none of its power and sophistication.

Fresh notes of bergamot and mandarin quickly give way to juicy notes of lychee and peach in the intro. Notes of lily and jasmine flirt with plum in the heart of the scent, while vanilla, musk and amber stand out in the drydown.

If the EDP is too much of a good thing for you, this fragrance is available in a lighter (and equally captivating) EDT version.

Fruity Fragrances

PENHALIGON’S EMPRESSA EDP (CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO)

British niche brand Penhaligon’s has been in the fragrance biz since 1870 and is known for a slew of classics, including Bluebell and Lily of the Valley. It’s from the brand’s Trade Routes Collection, which is inspired by the exotic ingredients that arrived in London at the end of the 19th century. Empressa is as luxurious as it sounds.

There’s a brief citrus opening, but that’s not why I love this 2014 release. It’s the fruity heart of peach, dewberry and cassis intermingled with floral and spice notes that makes me swoon.

Featuring notes of patchouli, cocoa, sandalwood and brown sugar, the base completes the classy mood.

Fruity Fragrances

BYREDO PULP EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Since its founding in 2006, the Swedish niche fragrance brand has made a name for itself with distinctive fragrances such as Bal d’Afrique and Rose of No Man’s Land. Launched in 2008, Pulp is as idiosyncratic as you can get.

It dishes up a rich melange of ripe fruity notes – black currant, fig and apple – with traces of spicy cardamom and citrusy bergamot in the background.

Notes of tiara flower and peach blossom add a floral flourish, while a gourmand element sneaks in in the form of a praline note.

Those with more daring tastes will love its boldness.

Image: Byredo.com.

*Available at Skins Cosmetics.

**Available at Dis-Chem.

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Perfume Ads That Are Memorable For All The Right Reasons

Perfume Ads
WORK OF ART: René Gruau for Dior Diorissimo.

What is it about so many perfume ads that makes them cringe-worthy or unintentionally hilarious?

Perhaps it’s the standard, supposedly sexy voiceover in husky overtones. I’ve lost count of the variations on this theme. Or is it the clichéd imagery? Take your pick from any one of the following scenarios. Woman draped around a bottle for dear life. Square-jawed man staring intently/creepily at you. Intertwined couples staring into the distance, because there ain’t no chemistry. Now, I’m no prude. I love a sexy ad. But then I want some chemistry. And sexy often means what you don’t show.

Below are some of my favourite perfume ads through the decades. Are you ready for a dose of good ol’ nostalgia? Which are your favourite perfume ads? And your worst?

RENE GRUAU FOR DIOR

The Italian-born illustrator worked for many high-profile clients, including Balmain, Givenchy and Schiaperelli. But he is most well-known for his bold ads for Dior from the 1940s to 1990s.

The illustrator’s iconic ads for the French luxury fashion maison never fail to captivate me. As John Galliano, former Dior head designer, said in an interview with the Telegraph, “A Gruau sketch captures the energy, the sophistication and daring of Dior.” The originals, of course, are now coveted collector’s items.

CHANEL EGOISTE

A provocatively named scent deserves an over-the-top treatment. And that’s exactly what director Jean-Paul Goude delivered for Chanel’s masculine fragrance, Égoïste, in 1990. The award-winning ad entailed a partial reconstruction of the InterContinental Carlton Cannes Hotel in a desert near Rio de Janeiro at a reported cost of $1 million.

Who can forget the vision of all those pissed-off women opening and closing the shuttered doors to the soundtrack of Sergei Prokofiev’s Dance of the Knights. Melodramatic and magnificent!

KENZO WORLD

Fragrance ads can be woefully lacking in humour. However, Spike Jonze’s commercial, more like a short film, for Kenzo World in 2016 took it to new levels of wonderful wackiness. American actress and dancer Margaret Qualley deserved an Oscar for her possessed performance in this modern classic. Created by Francis Kurkdjian, the fragrance itself wasn’t bad either.

https://youtu.be/ABz2m0olmPg?t=2

DOLCE & GABBANA LIGHT BLUE FEATURING DAVID GANDY

Okay, forget what I said earlier about too much flesh in my post. The big-production ads for Dolce & Gabbana starring British model David Gandy and directed by Mario Testino over the last two decades got the mix just right.

Gorgeous locations + abundant chemistry + cheeky sense of humour + male beauty at its finest = 💙 💙 💙

CALVIN KLEIN OBSESSION

The 90s were the decade of Kate Moss and the ad that made her a star was for Calvin Klein Obsession. It was shot in 1993 on the Virgin Islands by photographer Mario Sorrenti, when the model was 18 years old. Looking back at this campaign, there’s still something so natural and unforced about it.

The fragrance was re-invented in 2017 as Calvin Klein Obsessed with never-seen-before footage from the original shoot featuring in the advertising campaign, but didn’t have quite the same impact.

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Best Leather Fragrances: From The Smoky ‘N Sexy To The Supremely Smooth

Leather Fragrances

Is there anything sexier than leather fragrances with their sensual and animalic vibe? The idea of wearing a second olfactory skin is both comforting and exotic at the same time.

Leather fragrances have a long history in perfumery and were often the result of attempts to mask the overpowering smell of real animal hides due to the tanning process, according to Fragrantica.

Leather Fragrances

Modern interpretations of leather run the gamut from the hard and obvious to the more refined and subtle. As a note, leather actually doesn’t exist naturally. It’s therefore created through a combination of synthetics and/or natural ingredients, in particular birch tar.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

What are your favourite leather fragrances?

Leather Fragrances

VILHELM PARFUMERIE MORNING CHESS EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Notes: Bergamot, leather, galbanum, patchouli, black amber.

Wear it if you want: A leather fragrance with green overtones. This 2015 release from the NYC-based niche fragrance house opens with the freshness of bergamot.

It then goes in a green, semi-bitter direction with the addition of a large shot of resinous galbanum. While this note dominates the scent, there’s no missing the masculine-ish leather note, which lingers in the background throughout. The drydown is deep and earthy, thanks to the patchouli note.

The sharpness of this EDP will not appeal to everyone, so, as always, I recommend that you try it before you buy it.

CARTIER DECLARATION PARFUM (MATHILDE LAURENT)

Key notes: Bitter orange, cardamom, spices, cumin, cedar, leather, amberwood, benzoin, tolu balsam, vetiver.

Wear it if you want: A classic leather fragrance with a spicy twist. Launched in 2018 to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the classic Cartier Déclaration EDT, the parfum iteration shares some of the characteristics of the original, in particular the bitter orange and cardamom notes.

But like any good flanker, it’s a standout release in its own right. Where the original was fresh and spicy, the parfum goes in a warmer direction, with the addition of cumin. Rich, dark and full of depth, it’s complemented by a woody base that includes notes of cedar, amberwood and vetiver. Benzoin gives it a tinge of sexy smokiness.

Without a doubt, it’s one of the best designer leather fragrances on the market. I wouldn’t expect anything less from Cartier.

Leather Fragrances

TOM FORD FUCKING FABULOUS EDP

Key notes: Clary sage, lavender, bitter almond, vanilla, leather, orris, tonka bean, leather, cashmeran, amber, white woods.

Wear it if you want: A leather fragrance that’s more than just hype. Mr Ford proved once again his mastery of marketing when this provocatively named fragrance was released in 2017. However, in the process, the shock value overshadowed what is a rather appealing leather scent.

From the brand’s upmarket Private Blend Collection, this oriental opens with a strong herbal dose of clary sage oil, which has leathery characteristics, with lavender in support. The leather note that follows is paired with bitter almond oil, giving it a warm effect. Vanilla adds a hint of sweetness. That vibe continues through to the base, featuring tonka bean, cashmeran and white woods.

It’s a seamless blend that’s far more comfy and cosy than its name suggests.

Leather Fragrances

ALAIA ALAIA EDP (MARIE SALAMAGNE)

Key notes: Mountain air, pink pepper, peony, freesia, rose, white musk, leather, violet.

Wear it if you want: An impeccably smooth leather fragrance. There’s a good reason why this debut fragrance from the Paris-based luxury fashion brand was awarded the top five stars in the most recent edition of the prestigious Perfumes: The Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez.

It’s not an obvious leather fragrance. A contrast between cool and warm notes, the Tunisian-born designer wanted it to feel like a second skin. And that’s exactly what the perfumer achieved with it.

The fresh and airy opening progresses to a floral heart with nuances of peony, freesia and rose, settling on a base of leather and white musk.

Officially marketed at women, it’s perfectly unisex, so don’t let that put you off seeking out this example of superb quality.

Leather Fragrances

WIDIAN LONDON EDP* (JORDI FERNANDEZ)

Key notes: Oud, cypress, violet, lily-of-the-valley, raspberry, leather, dry amber, musk, vanilla.

Wear it if you want: A sweet leather fragrance. The gorgeous blue and gold bottle will be the first thing to grab your attention about this 2018 release from the Abu-Dhabi-based niche fragrance company that blends the best of Middle East and Western perfume traditions.

The juice is equally stylish. From the brand’s Sapphire Collection, it opens with the distinctive scent of oud. It’s a slightly sweet and luxurious treatment, which is accentuated by a big raspberry note. Violet adds an element of delicate powderiness.

The leather aspect is present throughout and gives this warm EDP a soft and smooth character. It’s supported by notes of amber, vanilla and musk.

While I don’t get the London inspiration as such, this is a beautifully crafted fragrance from start to finish.

Leather Fragrances

BYREDO BIBLIOTHEQUE EDP*

Key notes: Peach, plum, peony, violet, leather, patchouli, vanilla.

Wear it if you want: To feel like you’re in a world of old books. As its name suggests, this perfume (it was originally the Swedish niche fragrance company’s most popular candle) is inspired by the ambience of a library featuring old leather books on wooden shelves.

It’s a well-executed concept that begins in fruity territory with sweet (but not too sweet) fruity notes of peach and especially plum. The slight sweetness is further developed in the floral heart featuring a peony note. A violet note brings an earthy and powdery aspect. The leather base note completes the picture with notes of patchouli and vanilla adding to the intimate feel.

Leather Fragrances

FLORIS MAHON LEATHER EDP*

Key notes: Citruses, jasmine, vetiver, iris, saffron, leather, amber, French labdanum, musk, tonka bean, patchouli, sandalwood.

Wear it if you want: An old-school leather fragrance with a sense of history. This 2011 release is quintessential gentleman stuff.  It’s inspired by Mahón, the capital of the Spanish island of Menorca, the birthplace of the founder of this British heritage brand, Juan Famenias Floris, which can trace its roots all the way back to 1730.

It reveals its charms from the opening jasmine note featuring animalic properties. A big dose of iris adds powderiness to the composition, while saffron infuses it with a spicy leatheriness. The creamy leather note is perfectly paired with the woody aspects of sandalwood and vetiver, and warm tonka bean.

Leather Fragrances

MEMO RUSSIAN LEATHER EDP* (ALIENROR MASSENET)

Key notes: Oil of basil, fougère accord, oil of cedar leaf, oil of Siberian pine needle, oil of coriander seed, heart of lavandin, mint, oil of rosemary, oil of nutmeg, oil of guaiac, oil of patchouli, tonka bean absolute, leather accord, oil of clary sage, cypress absolute.

Wear it if you want: A leather fragrance that will pique your wanderlust. Founded in 2007 by John and Clara Molloy, Memo is a Paris-based niche fragrance house that produces top-notch scents inspired by the founders’ travel memories. Their leather fragrance collection, Cuir Nomades, includes highly recommended variations such as African, Irish, French and Italian.

The intriguing Russian Leather takes its cue from a Siberian forest. It starts its journey in fougère mode with a fern note. Siberian pine needle focuses the olfactory illusion, with notes of lavender, rosemary and mint providing herbal and green facets.

When the leather note comes through its gentle and soothing and surrounded by woody notes of cypress and patchouli.

This EDP has a fresh, clean, peppery vibe with appealing contrasts.

Leather Fragrances

*These leather fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics.

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The Perfume Decade That Was: And The Awards Go To…

I thought I would let the New Year/New Decade hype die down before taking a light look at the perfume decade that was. And seeing that it’s gong season (well, in Hollywood, anyway), I’m dishing up a variety of fragrance awards. But, unlike those events in La La Land, this ceremony will be admirably short, if I can say so myself. And no teary acceptance speeches required.

These fragrance awards are by no means a definitive take on the 2010s. But hopefully it will highlight some of the key trends and perfumes of the decade in the process.

In the spirit of having fun, are there any fragrance awards you’d like to add to this list?

THE SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS (AKA SMELL OF THE DECADE) AWARD

Created by a trio of top perfumers, Olivier Polge, Dominique Ropion and Ann Flipo, Lancôme La Vie Est Belle has been a best smeller, oops, seller since its launch in 2012. Taking two of the biggest trends of the decade – fruity florals and gourmands – it’s not hard to figure out why it has been such a commercial (and ubiquitous) success. More complex than its sweetness suggests, it’s a very well-composed crowd-pleaser. Will the French beauty brand’s recently launched Idôle scale the same heights in the new decade?

Fragrance Awards

THE UNDER THE INFLUENCE (AKA PERFUME PERSONALITY OF THE DECADE) AWARD

With his media savviness, knowledge, enthusiasm and good looks, Jeremy Fragrance (real name Daniel Schütz) became the quintessential fragrance influencer in the 2010s. Revered, reviled and copied in equal measure, the German-born vlogger is now a bona fide celebrity. In 2019 he took the brave step of launching his own brand, Fragrance One. The utilitarian-sounding Office For Men and Date For Men, created in collaboration with industry veteran Alberto Morillas, have been mercilessly slated online. A spritz of schadenfreude, anyone?

Fragrance Awards
Image: Fragrance One.
THE GOOD ENOUGH TO EAT (AKA TREND THAT WOULDN’T GO AWAY) AWARD

When Olivier Cresp revolutionised the fragrance world in the 1990s with Mugler Angel little did he know that gourmands would be the olfactive family that keeps on giving and giving. Originally the preserve of female fragrances, men increasingly also wanted in on the sugar action. The result? Hyper-sweet male scents that were guaranteed to give you the equivalent of an olfactory filling.

Fragrance Awards

THE BIG IS BEAUTIFUL (AKA NICHE BRAND OF THE DECADE) AWARD

If there’s one house that epitomised the opportunities of the niche boom during the 2010s, it’s Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Launched in 2009 by the Parisian perfumer, a succession of high-profile releases – Baccarat Rouge 540, Grand Soir, Oud Satin Mood, among many others – proved that niche could be big, lucrative and top quality. Little wonder French luxury giant LVMH bought a majority stake in the company in 2017. It was part of the trend of multinationals snapping up niche brands (for example, Estée Lauder and Le Labo and Frédéric Malle in 2014, Puig and L’Artisan Parfumeur and Penhaligon’s in 2015, L’Oréal and Atelier Cologne in 2016). You can read my recent interview with Francis Kurkdjian here.

Fragrance Awards

THE RISKY BEHAVIOUR (AKA PLEASANT SURPRISE OF THE DECADE) AWARD

At a time when designer brands played it all too safe with variations on the same theme, Gucci stood out with a number of releases in the latter part of the decade. Under the creative direction of Alessandro Michele and perfumer Alberto Morillas, the Italian luxury fashion brand took much-needed risks with Gucci Bloom (2017), Gucci Guilty Absolute (2017) and Gucci Memoire d’Une Odeur (2019) and showed that designer needn’t equal boring and predictable.

Fragrance Awards

THE VICTIMS OF THEIR OWN SUCCESS (AKA BATTLE OF THE DECADE) AWARD

It all started with the launch of Bleu de Chanel in 2010, followed by Dior Sauvage in 2015. By the end of the decade, both brands had launched EDT, EDP and parfum versions of their blockbusters, which led to increasing criticism of their all pervasiveness. That didn’t stop other male designer fragrance brands having their own interpretation of the blue theme.

THE GROWING PAINS (AKA MARKET SHARE) AWARD

As any report from Esxence will attest to, the phenomenal growth of the niche/indie/artisanal fragrance market continued apace over the last 10 years. Almost directly in proportion to more discerning and critical consumers’ fatigue with over-priced, but horribly average perfumes. At its best, niche is synonymous with craftsmanship and creativity, as exemplified by brands such as DS & Durga, Filippo Sorcinelli and Memo. Let’s hope we will see more of that in the new decade.

Want a fantastic round-up of the best fragrances of the last decade? Then Persolaise’s post is essential reading.