Category: FRAGRANCE REVIEWS

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Perfumed Travels: Diptyque Eau Capitale + Lady Hamilton Hotel Review

Diptyque Eau Capitale

Judging by all the online reviews I am seeing (and avoiding reading, in case I’m influenced by them), Diptyque Eau Capitale is the first big niche release of 2020 (although it was officially launched late last year).

I was recently in Cape Town for business and brought Diptyque Eau Capitale with me as my fragrance companion. There’s nothing like spending uninterrupted time with a perfume to really get a proper sense of it. It’s kind of like spending time away with a partner – for better and for worse.

Diptyque Eau Capitale

INSPIRATION

Since its founding in 1961, Diptyque has been synonymous with Paris and all its unique facets of arts, culture, literature and architecture. With Diptyque Eau Capitale, the niche fragrance brand is at last paying tribute to the city that’s such an integral part of its identity.

“Diptyque Eau Capitale is significant in that it’s the house’s first chypre fragrance.”

Diptyque Eau Capitale is also significant in that it’s the house’s first chypre fragrance. As part of its homage to Paris, the company thought it would be fitting to release a chypre – perhaps the most classical of perfumes, as epitomised by François Coty’s 1917 masterpiece.

SO WHAT DOES DIPTYqUE EAU CAPITALE SMELL LIKE?

Olivier Pescheux, who has produced several acclaimed scents for the brand over the years, including 34 Boulevard Saint Germain, Eau des Sens, Vetyverio and Tempo, was a natural choice to create this latest addition.

Diptyque Eau Capitale

MAISON FRIEND: Olivier Pescheux has created several successful fragrances for Diptyque. Image: Givaudan.

The intro to the scent belongs to the citrus hues of Italian bergamot. It’s fresh, zesty and slightly bitter in all the best ways. A twist of peppercorn brings spicy rosiness to the proceedings, setting the scene for the full-on heart of rose. Sourced from Turkey and Bulgaria, this is no lady-like take on the queen of florals. It’s rich, fruity, in full bloom, almost dirty. Ylang-ylang from the Comoros, not usually known for its sedateness, is very much in the background. For the drydown, Pescheux maximises the deep, dark and earthy qualities of Indonesian heart of patchouli and Haitian vetiver.

Some people are comparing Diptyque Eau Capitale with the Frédéric Malle tour de force Portrait of A Lady, not always favourably or fairly. Perhaps, because they both have dominant notes of rose and patchouli. These are very, very different fragrances and should be judged on their own merits. It’s not an either/or situation. Diptyque Eau Capitale stands out in its own right.

If longevity and sillage are priorities for you when buying a perfume, this EDP won’t disappoint. It’s one of the most potent I’ve smelled in a long time.

The fragrance proved to be the perfect travel partner. Present and engaging, but not suffocating. Intriguing, multi-dimensional and stimulating, yet approachable. Versatile and memorable.

Diptyque Eau Capitale is available at Skins Cosmetics. Look out for my interview with Olivier Pescheux in my next blog post.

Diptyque Eau Capitale

LADY HAMILTON HOTEL, GARDENS, CAPE TOWN

One of Cape Town’s most famous landmarks is the swanky Mount Nelson. Unfortunately, my blogger income wouldn’t allow me to set up temporary home at the five-star hotel. After some research, I came across another charming pink lady, in close proximity to the grande dame, the Lady Hamilton Hotel.

THE GRANDE DAME: The Mount Nelson Hotel.

Sure, this three-star hotel is a bit frayed around the edges, part of its charm I think. But it more than compensates with its:

  • Location, location, location – it’s close to buzzing Kloof Street, Table Mountain and the centre of the city.
  • Amiable and helpful staff.
  • Tasty buffet breakfast (included in the rate).
  • Facilities such as free WiFi, bar and complimentary tea and coffee in the lounge;
  • Pool area – although I didn’t actually do the water baby thing, I spent my downtime getting horizontal on one of the deck chairs.

Apart from providing a comfortable base for my Cape Town trip, the Lady Hamilton Hotel also provided a fab boho-colonial setting for the Diptyque Eau Capitale pics featured in this post.

Disclaimer: I paid for two nights (R890 per night on a bed and breakfast basis) for a standard twin room with shower at the hotel and was given one night free in exchange for coverage on my blog. For more information on the hotel and bookings, read here.

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Fruity Fragrances Mix (Who Says They’re All Too Sweet)

Fruity Fragrances

Styles come and go, but the popularity of fruity fragrances (in particular fruity florals in recent years) shows no signs of abating. There’s a huge variety of fruity fragrances on offer. Popular notes include peach, pear, plum, fig, apricot, black currant and lychee. More exotic options include goji berries, maninka and dragon fruit.

This list does not include citrus fragrances, as justifiably they belong to a whole category in themselves. Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Do you have any favourite fruity fragrances?

Fruity Fragrances

DIPTYQUE FLORABELLIO EDT* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

The Paris-based niche fragrance house has been producing standout scents since the 1960s. Launched in 2015, Florabellio is an unusual, yet softly evocative scent. Strictly speaking, it’s a floral scent, but it’s got fruity nuances, hence its inclusion on this list.

It opens with marine and sea salt accents, with a hint of herbal fennel in the background. These blend seamlessly with apple blossom and osmanthus (with its apricot qualities). A waft of coffee is discernible throughout.

It’s a great example of how contrasts can be treated in a subtle and sophisticated way.

Fruity Fragrances

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PREMIER FIGUIER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

Diptyque Philosykos is seen by many people as the gold standard of fig perfumes. But it would be remiss of me not to also point you in the direction of the first fig fragrance, Premier Figuier. Both were created by the same perfumer.

Launched in 1994, it brilliantly captures its inspiration of lying under the shade of a fig tree in sunny Provence. It begins in fresh, green territory with a note of fig leaf that’s followed by ripe fig. A milky, woody ambience is created through a combination of almond milk, sandalwood and coconut notes.

Want a more intense and darker fig experience? Then try L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier Extrême EDP.

Fruity Fragrances

FREDERIC MALLE LE PARFUM DE THERESE EDP* (EDMOND ROUDNITSKA)

We can thank Edmond Roudnitska for classics such as Dior Diorissimo, Eau d’Hermès and Femme Rochas. We can also thank him for this innovative composition that was originally created in the 1950s. The legendary French perfumer produced it for the exclusive use of his wife, Thérèse. She gave the formula to Frédéric Malle when he launched his niche fragrance company at the beginning of the century.

Opening with fresh notes of melon and cucumber, it richens with the appearance of prune, rose and jasmine notes. It eventually settles on a woody base of patchouli and vetiver.

Complex and intriguing, it’s unlike any fruity fragrance I’ve smelled before.

Fruity Fragrances

LE LABO AMBRETTE 9 EDP* (MICHEL ALMAIRAC)

This 2006 release from the NYC-based niche fragrance house is all the proof you need that fruity fragrances needn’t be sticky sweet. They can actually be clinical, cool and as chic as hell.

Ambrette (also known as musk mallow) is a natural form of musk. It’s undoubtedly the star of this scent show, but the mix of citrus and fruit (particularly pear) makes a notable contribution too.

It’s a soft take on the fruity fragrances theme and gets the balance between slightly sweet and sour just right.

Fruity Fragrances

DIOR BELLE DE JOUR EDP (FRANCOIS DEMACHY)

Fruity florals have been one of the big fragrance trends in recent years, but can be strident and sickly sweet. From the French luxury fashion brand’s exclusive La Collection Privée, Belle de Jour is none of these things.

A rose note with fruity accents takes the leading role in this composition. It’s skilfully paired with dollops of juicy pear and peach, bringing just the right amount of sweetness to the sensual affair. Woodiness and powderiness give complexity to the drydown.

Although not as “sexy” as the brand claims, Belle de Jour is the epitome of Dior elegance.

Fruity Fragrances

TOM FORD LOST CHERRY EDP (LOUISE TURNER)

The American designer knows how to grab our attention with a provocative name. His latest release is called Rose Prick and then there was the none-too-subtle Fucking Fabulous from 2017. But fortunately, there’s more to his fragrances than just marketing tricks.

Launched in 2018, Lost Cherry makes a decadent statement from the opening notes of cherry and cherry liqueur. A bitter almond note provides pleasing contrast. The theme of sweet and sour continues through to the heart of the scent, featuring jasmine sambac and Turkish rose notes.

After all that excess, it behaves itself on a base of tonka bean, Peru balsam and sandalwood notes.

Fruity Fragrances

BRITNEY SPEARS MIDNIGHT FANTASY EDP** (CAROLINE SABAS)

If you like your fruit juicy and sticky, Britney Spears Midnight Fantasy is your girl. As with all Britney Spears fragrances, this 2006 release doesn’t hold back and is what you might call a guilty pleasure. The fact that it can be bought for next to nothing adds to the sense of cheap thrills.

The opening notes of raspberry, black cherry and plum announce their fruity intentions with flamboyance. They are followed by a floral display of iris, orchid and freesia notes.

Unashamedly sweet all the way to the base notes of amber and vanilla, it’s got the fun and youthful factor in abundance.

Fruity Fragrances

DOLCE & GABBANA THE ONE FOR WOMEN EDP** (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

As a floriental fragrance Dolce & Gabbana The One EDP is opulent in all the right ways. Originally launched in 2006, it’s lost none of its power and sophistication.

Fresh notes of bergamot and mandarin quickly give way to juicy notes of lychee and peach in the intro. Notes of lily and jasmine flirt with plum in the heart of the scent, while vanilla, musk and amber stand out in the drydown.

If the EDP is too much of a good thing for you, this fragrance is available in a lighter (and equally captivating) EDT version.

Fruity Fragrances

PENHALIGON’S EMPRESSA EDP (CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO)

British niche brand Penhaligon’s has been in the fragrance biz since 1870 and is known for a slew of classics, including Bluebell and Lily of the Valley. It’s from the brand’s Trade Routes Collection, which is inspired by the exotic ingredients that arrived in London at the end of the 19th century. Empressa is as luxurious as it sounds.

There’s a brief citrus opening, but that’s not why I love this 2014 release. It’s the fruity heart of peach, dewberry and cassis intermingled with floral and spice notes that makes me swoon.

Featuring notes of patchouli, cocoa, sandalwood and brown sugar, the base completes the classy mood.

Fruity Fragrances

BYREDO PULP EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Since its founding in 2006, the Swedish niche fragrance brand has made a name for itself with distinctive fragrances such as Bal d’Afrique and Rose of No Man’s Land. Launched in 2008, Pulp is as idiosyncratic as you can get.

It dishes up a rich melange of ripe fruity notes – black currant, fig and apple – with traces of spicy cardamom and citrusy bergamot in the background.

Notes of tiara flower and peach blossom add a floral flourish, while a gourmand element sneaks in in the form of a praline note.

Those with more daring tastes will love its boldness.

Image: Byredo.com.

*Available at Skins Cosmetics.

**Available at Dis-Chem.

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Perfume Ads That Are Memorable For All The Right Reasons

Perfume Ads

WORK OF ART: René Gruau for Dior Diorissimo.

What is it about so many perfume ads that makes them cringe-worthy or unintentionally hilarious?

Perhaps it’s the standard, supposedly sexy voiceover in husky overtones. I’ve lost count of the variations on this theme. Or is it the clichéd imagery? Take your pick from any one of the following scenarios. Woman draped around a bottle for dear life. Square-jawed man staring intently/creepily at you. Intertwined couples staring into the distance, because there ain’t no chemistry. Now, I’m no prude. I love a sexy ad. But then I want some chemistry. And sexy often means what you don’t show.

Below are some of my favourite perfume ads through the decades. Are you ready for a dose of good ol’ nostalgia? Which are your favourite perfume ads? And your worst?

RENE GRUAU FOR DIOR

The Italian-born illustrator worked for many high-profile clients, including Balmain, Givenchy and Schiaperelli. But he is most well-known for his bold ads for Dior from the 1940s to 1990s.

The illustrator’s iconic ads for the French luxury fashion maison never fail to captivate me. As John Galliano, former Dior head designer, said in an interview with the Telegraph, “A Gruau sketch captures the energy, the sophistication and daring of Dior.” The originals, of course, are now coveted collector’s items.

CHANEL EGOISTE

A provocatively named scent deserves an over-the-top treatment. And that’s exactly what director Jean-Paul Goude delivered for Chanel’s masculine fragrance, Égoïste, in 1990. The award-winning ad entailed a partial reconstruction of the InterContinental Carlton Cannes Hotel in a desert near Rio de Janeiro at a reported cost of $1 million.

Who can forget the vision of all those pissed-off women opening and closing the shuttered doors to the soundtrack of Sergei Prokofiev’s Dance of the Knights. Melodramatic and magnificent!

KENZO WORLD

Fragrance ads can be woefully lacking in humour. However, Spike Jonze’s commercial, more like a short film, for Kenzo World in 2016 took it to new levels of wonderful wackiness. American actress and dancer Margaret Qualley deserved an Oscar for her possessed performance in this modern classic. Created by Francis Kurkdjian, the fragrance itself wasn’t bad either.

https://youtu.be/ABz2m0olmPg?t=2

DOLCE & GABBANA LIGHT BLUE FEATURING DAVID GANDY

Okay, forget what I said earlier about too much flesh in my post. The big-production ads for Dolce & Gabbana starring British model David Gandy and directed by Mario Testino over the last two decades got the mix just right.

Gorgeous locations + abundant chemistry + cheeky sense of humour + male beauty at its finest = 💙 💙 💙

CALVIN KLEIN OBSESSION

The 90s were the decade of Kate Moss and the ad that made her a star was for Calvin Klein Obsession. It was shot in 1993 on the Virgin Islands by photographer Mario Sorrenti, when the model was 18 years old. Looking back at this campaign, there’s still something so natural and unforced about it.

The fragrance was re-invented in 2017 as Calvin Klein Obsessed with never-seen-before footage from the original shoot featuring in the advertising campaign, but didn’t have quite the same impact.

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Best Leather Fragrances: From The Smoky ‘N Sexy To The Supremely Smooth

Leather Fragrances

Is there anything sexier than leather fragrances with their sensual and animalic vibe? The idea of wearing a second olfactory skin is both comforting and exotic at the same time.

Leather fragrances have a long history in perfumery and were often the result of attempts to mask the overpowering smell of real animal hides due to the tanning process, according to Fragrantica.

Leather Fragrances

Modern interpretations of leather run the gamut from the hard and obvious to the more refined and subtle. As a note, leather actually doesn’t exist naturally. It’s therefore created through a combination of synthetics and/or natural ingredients, in particular birch tar.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

What are your favourite leather fragrances?

Leather Fragrances

VILHELM PARFUMERIE MORNING CHESS EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Notes: Bergamot, leather, galbanum, patchouli, black amber.

Wear it if you want: A leather fragrance with green overtones. This 2015 release from the NYC-based niche fragrance house opens with the freshness of bergamot.

It then goes in a green, semi-bitter direction with the addition of a large shot of resinous galbanum. While this note dominates the scent, there’s no missing the masculine-ish leather note, which lingers in the background throughout. The drydown is deep and earthy, thanks to the patchouli note.

The sharpness of this EDP will not appeal to everyone, so, as always, I recommend that you try it before you buy it.

CARTIER DECLARATION PARFUM (MATHILDE LAURENT)

Key notes: Bitter orange, cardamom, spices, cumin, cedar, leather, amberwood, benzoin, tolu balsam, vetiver.

Wear it if you want: A classic leather fragrance with a spicy twist. Launched in 2018 to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the classic Cartier Déclaration EDT, the parfum iteration shares some of the characteristics of the original, in particular the bitter orange and cardamom notes.

But like any good flanker, it’s a standout release in its own right. Where the original was fresh and spicy, the parfum goes in a warmer direction, with the addition of cumin. Rich, dark and full of depth, it’s complemented by a woody base that includes notes of cedar, amberwood and vetiver. Benzoin gives it a tinge of sexy smokiness.

Without a doubt, it’s one of the best designer leather fragrances on the market. I wouldn’t expect anything less from Cartier.

Leather Fragrances

TOM FORD FUCKING FABULOUS EDP

Key notes: Clary sage, lavender, bitter almond, vanilla, leather, orris, tonka bean, leather, cashmeran, amber, white woods.

Wear it if you want: A leather fragrance that’s more than just hype. Mr Ford proved once again his mastery of marketing when this provocatively named fragrance was released in 2017. However, in the process, the shock value overshadowed what is a rather appealing leather scent.

From the brand’s upmarket Private Blend Collection, this oriental opens with a strong herbal dose of clary sage oil, which has leathery characteristics, with lavender in support. The leather note that follows is paired with bitter almond oil, giving it a warm effect. Vanilla adds a hint of sweetness. That vibe continues through to the base, featuring tonka bean, cashmeran and white woods.

It’s a seamless blend that’s far more comfy and cosy than its name suggests.

Leather Fragrances

ALAIA ALAIA EDP (MARIE SALAMAGNE)

Key notes: Mountain air, pink pepper, peony, freesia, rose, white musk, leather, violet.

Wear it if you want: An impeccably smooth leather fragrance. There’s a good reason why this debut fragrance from the Paris-based luxury fashion brand was awarded the top five stars in the most recent edition of the prestigious Perfumes: The Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez.

It’s not an obvious leather fragrance. A contrast between cool and warm notes, the Tunisian-born designer wanted it to feel like a second skin. And that’s exactly what the perfumer achieved with it.

The fresh and airy opening progresses to a floral heart with nuances of peony, freesia and rose, settling on a base of leather and white musk.

Officially marketed at women, it’s perfectly unisex, so don’t let that put you off seeking out this example of superb quality.

Leather Fragrances

WIDIAN LONDON EDP* (JORDI FERNANDEZ)

Key notes: Oud, cypress, violet, lily-of-the-valley, raspberry, leather, dry amber, musk, vanilla.

Wear it if you want: A sweet leather fragrance. The gorgeous blue and gold bottle will be the first thing to grab your attention about this 2018 release from the Abu-Dhabi-based niche fragrance company that blends the best of Middle East and Western perfume traditions.

The juice is equally stylish. From the brand’s Sapphire Collection, it opens with the distinctive scent of oud. It’s a slightly sweet and luxurious treatment, which is accentuated by a big raspberry note. Violet adds an element of delicate powderiness.

The leather aspect is present throughout and gives this warm EDP a soft and smooth character. It’s supported by notes of amber, vanilla and musk.

While I don’t get the London inspiration as such, this is a beautifully crafted fragrance from start to finish.

Leather Fragrances

BYREDO BIBLIOTHEQUE EDP*

Key notes: Peach, plum, peony, violet, leather, patchouli, vanilla.

Wear it if you want: To feel like you’re in a world of old books. As its name suggests, this perfume (it was originally the Swedish niche fragrance company’s most popular candle) is inspired by the ambience of a library featuring old leather books on wooden shelves.

It’s a well-executed concept that begins in fruity territory with sweet (but not too sweet) fruity notes of peach and especially plum. The slight sweetness is further developed in the floral heart featuring a peony note. A violet note brings an earthy and powdery aspect. The leather base note completes the picture with notes of patchouli and vanilla adding to the intimate feel.

Leather Fragrances

FLORIS MAHON LEATHER EDP*

Key notes: Citruses, jasmine, vetiver, iris, saffron, leather, amber, French labdanum, musk, tonka bean, patchouli, sandalwood.

Wear it if you want: An old-school leather fragrance with a sense of history. This 2011 release is quintessential gentleman stuff.  It’s inspired by Mahón, the capital of the Spanish island of Menorca, the birthplace of the founder of this British heritage brand, Juan Famenias Floris, which can trace its roots all the way back to 1730.

It reveals its charms from the opening jasmine note featuring animalic properties. A big dose of iris adds powderiness to the composition, while saffron infuses it with a spicy leatheriness. The creamy leather note is perfectly paired with the woody aspects of sandalwood and vetiver, and warm tonka bean.

Leather Fragrances

MEMO RUSSIAN LEATHER EDP* (ALIENROR MASSENET)

Key notes: Oil of basil, fougère accord, oil of cedar leaf, oil of Siberian pine needle, oil of coriander seed, heart of lavandin, mint, oil of rosemary, oil of nutmeg, oil of guaiac, oil of patchouli, tonka bean absolute, leather accord, oil of clary sage, cypress absolute.

Wear it if you want: A leather fragrance that will pique your wanderlust. Founded in 2007 by John and Clara Molloy, Memo is a Paris-based niche fragrance house that produces top-notch scents inspired by the founders’ travel memories. Their leather fragrance collection, Cuir Nomades, includes highly recommended variations such as African, Irish, French and Italian.

The intriguing Russian Leather takes its cue from a Siberian forest. It starts its journey in fougère mode with a fern note. Siberian pine needle focuses the olfactory illusion, with notes of lavender, rosemary and mint providing herbal and green facets.

When the leather note comes through its gentle and soothing and surrounded by woody notes of cypress and patchouli.

This EDP has a fresh, clean, peppery vibe with appealing contrasts.

Leather Fragrances

*These leather fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics.

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The Perfume Decade That Was: And The Awards Go To…

I thought I would let the New Year/New Decade hype die down before taking a light look at the perfume decade that was. And seeing that it’s gong season (well, in Hollywood, anyway), I’m dishing up a variety of fragrance awards. But, unlike those events in La La Land, this ceremony will be admirably short, if I can say so myself. And no teary acceptance speeches required.

These fragrance awards are by no means a definitive take on the 2010s. But hopefully it will highlight some of the key trends and perfumes of the decade in the process.

In the spirit of having fun, are there any fragrance awards you’d like to add to this list?

THE SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS (AKA SMELL OF THE DECADE) AWARD

Created by a trio of top perfumers, Olivier Polge, Dominique Ropion and Ann Flipo, Lancôme La Vie Est Belle has been a best smeller, oops, seller since its launch in 2012. Taking two of the biggest trends of the decade – fruity florals and gourmands – it’s not hard to figure out why it has been such a commercial (and ubiquitous) success. More complex than its sweetness suggests, it’s a very well-composed crowd-pleaser. Will the French beauty brand’s recently launched Idôle scale the same heights in the new decade?

Fragrance Awards

THE UNDER THE INFLUENCE (AKA PERFUME PERSONALITY OF THE DECADE) AWARD

With his media savviness, knowledge, enthusiasm and good looks, Jeremy Fragrance (real name Daniel Schütz) became the quintessential fragrance influencer in the 2010s. Revered, reviled and copied in equal measure, the German-born vlogger is now a bona fide celebrity. In 2019 he took the brave step of launching his own brand, Fragrance One. The utilitarian-sounding Office For Men and Date For Men, created in collaboration with industry veteran Alberto Morillas, have been mercilessly slated online. A spritz of schadenfreude, anyone?

Fragrance Awards

Image: Fragrance One.

THE GOOD ENOUGH TO EAT (AKA TREND THAT WOULDN’T GO AWAY) AWARD

When Olivier Cresp revolutionised the fragrance world in the 1990s with Mugler Angel little did he know that gourmands would be the olfactive family that keeps on giving and giving. Originally the preserve of female fragrances, men increasingly also wanted in on the sugar action. The result? Hyper-sweet male scents that were guaranteed to give you the equivalent of an olfactory filling.

Fragrance Awards

THE BIG IS BEAUTIFUL (AKA NICHE BRAND OF THE DECADE) AWARD

If there’s one house that epitomised the opportunities of the niche boom during the 2010s, it’s Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Launched in 2009 by the Parisian perfumer, a succession of high-profile releases – Baccarat Rouge 540, Grand Soir, Oud Satin Mood, among many others – proved that niche could be big, lucrative and top quality. Little wonder French luxury giant LVMH bought a majority stake in the company in 2017. It was part of the trend of multinationals snapping up niche brands (for example, Estée Lauder and Le Labo and Frédéric Malle in 2014, Puig and L’Artisan Parfumeur and Penhaligon’s in 2015, L’Oréal and Atelier Cologne in 2016). You can read my recent interview with Francis Kurkdjian here.

Fragrance Awards

THE RISKY BEHAVIOUR (AKA PLEASANT SURPRISE OF THE DECADE) AWARD

At a time when designer brands played it all too safe with variations on the same theme, Gucci stood out with a number of releases in the latter part of the decade. Under the creative direction of Alessandro Michele and perfumer Alberto Morillas, the Italian luxury fashion brand took much-needed risks with Gucci Bloom (2017), Gucci Guilty Absolute (2017) and Gucci Memoire d’Une Odeur (2019) and showed that designer needn’t equal boring and predictable.

Fragrance Awards

THE VICTIMS OF THEIR OWN SUCCESS (AKA BATTLE OF THE DECADE) AWARD

It all started with the launch of Bleu de Chanel in 2010, followed by Dior Sauvage in 2015. By the end of the decade, both brands had launched EDT, EDP and parfum versions of their blockbusters, which led to increasing criticism of their all pervasiveness. That didn’t stop other male designer fragrance brands having their own interpretation of the blue theme.

THE GROWING PAINS (AKA MARKET SHARE) AWARD

As any report from Esxence will attest to, the phenomenal growth of the niche/indie/artisanal fragrance market continued apace over the last 10 years. Almost directly in proportion to more discerning and critical consumers’ fatigue with over-priced, but horribly average perfumes. At its best, niche is synonymous with craftsmanship and creativity, as exemplified by brands such as DS & Durga, Filippo Sorcinelli and Memo. Let’s hope we will see more of that in the new decade.

Want a fantastic round-up of the best fragrances of the last decade? Then Persolaise’s post is essential reading. 

 

 

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Chanel Paris-Riviera Review

Chanel Paris-Riviera

Chanel launched its new collection, Les Eaux, in 2018. It consisted of three fragrances inspired by destinations that were significant to Coco Chanel: Paris-Venise, Paris-Biarritz and Paris-Deauville. I was immediately smitten by the quality and fresh tone of these releases. You can read that post here. The latest addition to the range, launched in June this year, Chanel Paris-Riviera, has had the same effect on me.

Chanel Paris-Riviera

The style icon started visiting the French Riviera in the 1920s, including Monaco, Saint-Tropez and Cannes, where she opened one of her boutiques. Chanel loved this Mediterranean coastal area so much that she had a villa, La Pausa, built in the hills of Roquebrune. Ever the control freak (and I mean that as a compliment), she overlooked all the details, some of which included elements from her childhood in an orphanage.

RIVIERA LIFE: Gabrielle Chanel on the staircase of her villa, La Pausa, in Roquebrune in the south of France in 1938. © Photo Roger Schall – Collection Schall.

SO WHAT DOES CHANEL PARIS-RIVIERA SMELL LIKE?

For Paris-Riviera, Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, took inspiration from the happy and exciting time in her life on the Côte d’Azur. It’s perfectly reflected in the juice.

HOME STYLE: Chanel at La Pausa with her dog, Gigot, in 1930. © All rights reserved.

The EDT opens with the range’s signature freshness, this time in the form of orange peel and petitgrain notes. They are given a soft treatment. Polge blended a special type of neroli sourced by the house, which amplifies the opening, with jasmine for a bright citrus-floral effect. Jasmine can be overpowering, but it’s very elegantly behaved in this composition. It flows seamlessly to the drydown, where a light creamy sandalwood note is paired with vanilla-ish benzoin balm.

DESTINATION INSPIRATION: Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, has created all of the fragrances in the Les Eaux collection. Image: Chanel.

There’s a gentleness to this scent throughout. Nothing feels heavy-handed or out of place. Polge has skilfully captured its inspiration without being obvious about it.

“Nothing feels heavy-handed or out of place. Polge has skilfully captured its inspiration without being obvious about it.”

Chanel Paris-Riviera is a limited edition. It will only be available until the end of May 2020. Get your hands on it before then if you’re looking for a scent that captures the spirit of summer with aplomb. For more information, read here.

R2 070 for 125ml.

Chanel Paris-Riviera

 

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Best Designer Fragrances Of 2019: The Flankers Edition – Dior Joy Intense, YSL Y EDP, Twilly d’Hermès Eau Poivrée, Elie Saab Le Parfum Royal, Dunhill Century Blue, Bulgari Man Wood Neroli, Oscar de la Renta Bella Rosa, Paco Rabanne Invictus Legend

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

For my last round-up of the year, best designer fragrances of 2019, I thought I would take a look at some of the latest flankers on the market. For better and for worse, these are the mainstay of the designer fragrance business model. Release a new pillar fragrance and then follow it with numerous variations on the theme until it has run its course.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

The best flankers bring something new while staying true to the original. The rest (and there are a lot of those) just add to consumer confusion and the idea that designer brands are void of any creativity.

This selection of best designer fragrances of 2019 has several pleasant surprises. Where known, the name of the perfumer is mentioned in brackets after the name of the scent.

Which are your best designer fragrances of 2019?

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

DIOR JOY EDP INTENSE (FRANCOIS DEMACHY)

When Dior Joy EDP was launched in 2018, it caused a stir, for the wrong reasons. Many people were unhappy that the French luxury fashion company had appropriated the name from the Jean Patou classic. I liked this scent in a “nice” kind of way.

Dior Joy Intense is a far more interesting and beautiful floral creation. The citrus opening of bergamot and mandarin will be the first to grab you. They are followed by a big dose of Grasse grandiflorum jasmine, which stays on the right side of sweetness, and a hint of Grasse centifolia rose in the background.

The drydown of vanilla, musk and sandalwood is creamy in all the right ways. It’s a seductive and sophisticated treat from start to finish.

R1 795 for 50ml and R2 765 for 90ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

YSL Y EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

In 2017, YSL launched its new fragrance, Y, in an EDT format. It’s pleasant-enough stuff, but it’s the EDP that’s getting attention for all the right reasons.  

It makes its mark right from the start with a trio of fresh notes, bergamot, ginger and apple. The apple note, in particular, is a standout and gives it a juicy and slightly sweet bite. A herbal facet follows in the form of a pronounced sage note. Juniper berries and geranium add to the freshness. The base is woody, with a big dose of amberwood. Vanilla-ish tonka bean is also prominent in the drydown.

It’s all too easy to criticise YSL Y EDP as safe, reliable and even a crowd-pleaser. Nothing wrong with that, especially when it’s done so well.

R1 860 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

TWILLY D’HERMES EAU POIVREE EDP (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

When Twilly d’Hermès was launched in 2017, it was wonderful proof that a fragrance marketed at young women needn’t be a cloyingly predictable confection. It could actually be intriguing and gorgeous enough to have appeal beyond its intended demographic.

Does Twilly d’Hermès Eau Poivrée continue the great work? You bet. The original was defined by the dynamic between ginger and tuberose. This one focuses on three key notes: the balance between pink pepper and rose, settling on a base of woody and earthy patchouli.

Soft and soothing, it’s a delightfully simple yet elegant composition that will once again appeal to those with more mature tastes.

R1 080 for 30ml, R1 620 for 50ml and R2 215 for 85ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

SOFT SKILLS: Will Twilly d’Hermès Eau Poivrée get your vote as one of the best designer fragrances of 2019?

DUNHILL CENTURY BLUE EDP

I have a soft spot for Dunhill fragrances, as they capture understated elegance so well. Dunhill Century Blue, the follow-up to Dunhill Century, is no exception.

There’s a fresh citrus intro, thanks to notes of bergamot and mandarin orange, which continues throughout the fragrance’s progression. Spicy ginger amplifies the cleanness. It’s intermingled with a leathery orris note. The base warms up with the addition of amber, with a sprinkle of sea salt in the background.

There are no surprises here, but look no further if you want a scent that’s grown-up and strikes a skilful balance between tradition and modernity.

R1 495 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

ELIE SAAB LE PARFUM ROYAL EDP (MAIA LERNOUT)

The Lebanese fashion designer had a huge hit on his hands when Francis Kurkdjian created Elie Saab Le Parfum EDP in 2011, with its accents of African orange blossom, jasmine, honey and patchouli. It has generated several flankers since then, including Rose Couture, Eclat d’Or and Le Parfum in White.

Apparently, the perfumer Maia Lernout produced Elie Saab Le Parfum Royal under the guidance of its original creator. It opens with a citrus burst of mandarin essence, which develops in a floral direction with two variations of rose: Turkish absolute and Bulgarian.

But this is without a doubt a patchouli bomb. You’ll either love its bold richness, or find it a tad overpowering.

R975 for 30ml, R1 540 for 50ml and R2 080 for 90ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

BULGARI MAN WOOD NEROLI EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

The original Bulgari Man was launched in 2010 and has spawned several successful flankers over the last decade, including Black Orient and Black Cologne.

The latest is a citrusy spin on its forerunner, Bulgari Man Wood. Neroli, bergamot and orange work in unison to set a fresh, sunny scene. The woody aspect comes through in the form of Virginia cedar and cypriol oil. There’s a big dose of ambroxan in this EDP. Depending on your views of this synthetic form of ambroxan, it will be good or bad news.

While it’s not the most exciting fragrance, it’s got the feel-good factor in abundance and is super reliable.

R1 260 for 60ml, R1 680 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

OSCAR DE LA RENTA BELLA ROSA EDP (HARRY FREMONT)

Like its predecessor, Oscar de la Renta Bella Blanca, Bella Rosa comes in one of the prettiest bottles in the biz.

Where the original was all about white florals, the first flanker has a pink rose focus. It begins with a fresh touch of mandarin orange and freesia. That freshness continues through to the pink rose heart, which is soft and powdery, with jasmine in support. Amber stands out in the drydown and patchouli tempers the sweetness.

It’s romantic and very well crafted. This should come as no surprise. It was created by master perfumer Harry Fremont, who also produced the original.

R995 for 100ml.

PACO RABANNE INVICTUS LEGEND EDP (DOMITILLE BERTIER & NICOLAS BEAULIEU)

Originally launched in 2013, Invictus has been one of Paco Rabanne’s big sellers this decade. This is its fifth flanker/limited edition. I’ve never really got into the fragrance. Perhaps I was put off by the naff marketing.

That said, I’ve been enjoying this aquatic in the searing heat we’ve been having here recently in Johannesburg, in particular the salty opening. The marine vibe and amber dominate the scent, but are contrasted with notes of bay leaf, spice and geranium for interest.

It’s not going to win any trophies (sorry, couldn’t help myself) for originality, but works a treat as an everyday fragrance in summer.

R1 205 for 50ml and R1 585 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

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Frédéric Malle Une Rose Review: A Dark, Wine-Soaked Classic

Frédéric Malle Une Rose

When Frédéric Malle launched his niche fragrance company, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, in 2 000, it was a novel idea for the perfumer’s name to be featured on the bottle. Since then the Paris-based niche fragrance company has built its sought-after reputation on a succession of high-quality, classic releases created by the world’s top perfumers, including Dominique Ropion, Jean-Claude Ellena and Olivia Giacobetti. Launched in 2003 and created by Edouard Fléchier, Frédéric Malle Une Rose EDP is one of these classics.

Perfumer

By modern standards, Fléchier isn’t a prolific perfumer, but the Frenchman is highly regarded for creations such as Davidoff EDT, Montana Parfum d’Homme, Christian Lacroix C’est la Vie EDP and Frédéric Malle Lys Mediterranee EDP. His place in perfume history is assured with the 80s classic Christian Dior Poison. Most recently, in 2018, he created Aramis Tobacco Reserve EDP.

SO WHAT DOES UNE ROSE SMELL LIKE?

There’s no doubt that this is a rose fragrance from the opening, but it’s no ordinary rose. It’s rich, deep and full bodied with fruity and honey undertones, courtesy of the Turkish rose absolute. The production of this extract is a costly process, hence its use only in the finest perfumes. This rose is prominent throughout the stages of the fragrance, but its character morphs as other notes come into play. At times, there’s a slight sweetness to it, but mostly it’s dramatic and uncompromising.

Frédéric Malle Une Rose

While taking in the beauty of this rose, the wine dregs add further character and depth to the mix. They bring woodiness to the scent. Geranium is often paired with rose in perfumery and it’s used to great effect in Frédéric Malle Une Rose, adding a herbal facet.

“While many rose fragrances peter out with blandness, Une Rose is increasingly intriguing as it progresses to its drydown.”

While many rose fragrances peter out with blandness, Une Rose is increasingly intriguing as it progresses to its drydown. The base notes of castoreum and vetiver work well together to complement the earthiness of the truffle accord. Like its edible counterpart, this accord is not for everyone and emphasises the dark aspect of the rose.

Remarkably authentic from start to finish, Frédéric Malle Une Rose is a standout in a category where there’s no shortage of competition. It’s expensive, but well worth every hard-earned cent. Sophisticated and luxurious, Frédéric Malle Une Rose is a top choice for rose perfume aficionados. Those who are new to rose perfumes might find it a bit overpowering. It will appeal to anyone who values craftsmanship at its best. Officially a fragrance for women, it’s perfectly unisex.

Frédéric Malle Une Rose is available at Skins Cosmetics.

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Gucci Memoire d’une Odeur Review

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

Something interesting happened in 2015 when Alessandro Michele was appointed creative director of Gucci. Apart from a new direction for the Italian luxury brand’s collections, it started to take much-needed bold risks with its fragrances, too. This was exemplified by the unusual leather fragrance Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP and the heavy florals of Gucci Bloom EDP. The recent launch of Gucci Memoire d’une Odeur EDP builds on that momentum.

It’s a unisex scent, which is pretty much standard in the niche category. But it’s still rare for a designer brand to market one of its big releases as a universal fragrance. Gucci also claims that it’s innovative in that it establishes a new olfactive family, mineral aromatic, but more about that below.

“It’s still rare for a designer brand to market one of its big releases as a universal fragrance.”

Perfumer

Alberto Morillas has created all of the recent Gucci releases. The Spaniard is one of the most prolific perfumers of our time and is well known for a slew of commercial classics. These include Bulgari Man EDT, cK One EDT, Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio EDT, Givenchy Pi EDT, Mugler Cologne, Tommy Hilfiger Tommy EDT, Versace Pour Homme EDT and YSL M7 EDT. In 2015, he launched his own perfume company, Mizensir, in Geneva, Switzerland.

The brand stresses that Morillas created Memoire d’une Odeur in close collaboration with Michele. This kind of partnership is not always the case in the creation of a designer fragrance.

MAKING MEMORIES: Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele with Harry Styles, one of the stars of the Gucci Memoire d’Une Odeur ad campaign, at the Met Gala in May 2019. Image: Gucci.com.

SO WHAT DOES GUCCI MEMOIRE D’UNE ODEUR SMELL LIKE?

Memoire d’une Odeur is inspired by the power of memories and their intimate link with the sense of smell.

The first thing that is noticeable about this fragrance is its camomile note. Morillas used the Roman version, which has been grown in the city for a number of centuries. It’s known for its sweetness, but here it has more of a herbal and green character.

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

Camomile is commonly paired with jasmine, so it’s no surprise to see the perfumer making use of this duo in the heart of the fragrance. He used an exclusive version of the floral – Indian coral jasmine – to give it a honeyed aspect. It’s not sweet or overpowering in the least. A big dose of musk brings cosy warmth. The woody drydown features notes of cedar and sandalwood. Vanilla enhances the creaminess of the latter.

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

What about the claim that this pairing of camomile and jasmine sees the creation of a new olfactive family: mineral aromatic? It’s a little over the top, as it’s not the first time this combination has been used in perfumery. But that doesn’t take away from the fact that Gucci should be applauded for trying something different and that’s not trend-driven.

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

There are already many negative online reviews on this fragrance. Perhaps the high-profile media campaign across all channels created the wrong kind of expectations that it would be an intense experience. Instead, Memoire d’une Odeur is a soothing and soft scent. Using the memories analogy, it’s hazy and blurred, rather than vivid and hyper real. This makes it a far more interesting proposition.

R1 195 for 40ml, R1 635 for 60ml and R2 225 for 100ml. For more information, read here.. 

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Gabrielle Chanel Essence Review

When Gabrielle Chanel EDP was launched over two years ago, it was declared “boring” by many bloggers and online reviewers. I disagreed and you can read that post here. So I was very much looking forward to the launch of its first flanker, Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP, in September 2019. As with its predecessor, it’s inspired by the maverick spirit of Coco Chanel.

SO WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN GABRIELLE CHANEL AND GABRIELLE CHANEL ESSENCE?

The new version isn’t a radical departure from the original but, like any worthwhile flanker, offers something different in its own right. I won’t give you a note-by-note comparison; suffice to say that Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP has a richer and denser character.

“Gabrielle Chanel Essence has a richer and denser character than its predecessor.”

It opens with a light and fresh sprinkle of citrus notes, while a red berry note is just discernible in the background.

There’s no doubting that this is a white floral fragrance when the heart notes come into play. Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, who also created the original, has not skimped on the ingredients. These include jasmine, ylang-ylang from the Comoros, Tunisian orange blossom and a variety of tuberose grown exclusively for the French luxury company in Grasse. Together, they create an enticingly luxurious effect with just the right amount of sweetness.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence

MASTER: Olivier Polge is Chanel’s in-house perfumer. Image: Chanel.

This tuberose deserves a special mention. It’s undoubtedly the star of the show, but it doesn’t smother the other florals. Polge is too clever a perfumer for that. It’s typically creamy, but with a refined freshness. That elegant mood carries through to the drydown, where white musk predominates, with sandalwood and vanilla in support.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence

I’ve been wearing this EDP regularly for the last three weeks and am relishing the details in this composition. Although I don’t wear fragrances specifically to get compliments, it seems many other people are enjoying it too.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence, R2 570 for 100ml. For more info, read here.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence