The launch this week of the limited-edition 300ml of Bleu de Chanel EDP is as good a time as any to acknowledge why this woody-aromatic fragrance has become such a top seller for the French luxury fashion house.
Bleu de Chanel was originally launched as an EDT in 2010. Created by the esteemed Jacques Polge (Chanel’s then in-house perfumer), Bleu de Chanel became the new standard bearer for men’s designer fine fragrances. Several whiffs will tell you why. It’s sophisticated and elegant without trying too hard – in that very French, very Chanel way – from the super-minimalist dark blue bottle to the juice.
“It’s sophisticated and elegant without trying too hard – in that very French, very Chanel way.”
FROM CHANEL BLEU EDT TO CHANEL BLEU EDP
In 2014, Polge gave Bleu de Chanel the EDP treatment. I won’t get into the endless EDP vs EDT debate here. Suffice to say, both are worthy of your attention and your preference no doubt will be very personal.
Both share a highly distinctive citrus-fresh opening, with grapefruit at the fore. The EDP has standout incense, vetiver, mint, cedar and amber notes. Super smooth, sensual and sexy, you’ll be hard pressed to find another fragrance that gets as many compliments as Bleu de Chanel EDP. It’s also remarkably versatile, from day to night and from casual-chic to more formal occasions.
The problem with success is that everybody wants to copy you – or hate you. I won’t mention any names, but Bleu de Chanel has been shamelessly cloned by competitors. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery and all that.
“The problem with success is that everybody wants to copy you – or hate you.”
Perfume snobs will claim Bleu de Chanel EDP has become too popular for its own good. Au contraire! As if creating a quality perfume that brings pleasure and joy to many men and women – and yes, profits to Chanel – is not worthy of praise and recognition.
January tends to be a very slow month in perfume-land, with a lull in new launches. Probably a very good idea after the always-more-expensive-than-budgeted-for holidays. However, two months into 2018, I’ve got some newbie reviews for you.
Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme EDP
For a while Gucci became known for its middling fragrances. The not bad, but not particularly earth-shatteringly good either variety. That all started to change in 2017 with the release of the leather-licious Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Homme EDP and the white florals-rich Gucci Bloom EDP. You can read those reviews here: https://fragroom.com/2017/07/08/gucci-guilty-absolute-prada-luna-rossa-carbon-thierry-mugler-amen-kryptomint/ and https://fragroom.com/2017/11/29/female-floral-fragrances-for-men/. These stand-out fragrances, collaborations between Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele and master perfumer Alberto Morillas, made it clear that the Italian luxury brand was back in the fragrance game.
ABSOLUTE MASTERY: Alberto Morillas, the creator of Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Homme and Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme. Pic courtesy of Coty.
Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme is also an Alberto Morillas creation. Like its male counterpart, it takes some bold risks. It opens with an unmistakable blackberry note, luscious and intriguing. But it’s not just big on fruit. A Bulgarian rose develops in the background, adding to the richness, while also tempering the sweetness. Those familiar with Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Homme might recognise the Goldenwood note, an extract of the nootka cypress which brings a dense woodiness to the proceedings. The patchouli base completes the sensuality.
While undeniably lavish, Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme is also very wearable, for both women and men. Michele wanted an unconventional romantic fragrance and Morillas has more than delivered on the brief. Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme EDP, R1 005 for 30ml, R1 385 for 50ml and R1 825 for 90ml.
“While undeniably lavish, Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme is also very wearable, for both women and men.”
Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Him
It seems like I reviewed new Boss The Scent fragrances very recently. Such is the relentless cycle of modern perfumery. Establish the pillar and follow with a succession of flankers. The follow-up to Boss The Scent For Him Intense comes in a super-sexy flacon. The juice is surprisingly subtle for a male seduction scent. Maninka fruit, sourced from South Africa, is still at the heart of it, with ginger, orris concrete and patchouli notes in support. Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Him, R1 660 for 100ml.
Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Her
If Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Him is curiously understated, the female version is positively on steroids. It opens with a big honeyed peach note that’s love-it-or-hate-it stuff. Osmanthus absolute, cistus absolute and roasted cocoa also feature in the mix. Talking of relentless cycles, Boss The Scent EDT For Her will be launched in April. I can’t keep up. Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Her, R1 375 for 50ml.
Hugo Urban Journey EDT
The latest addition to the long-running Hugo franchise is all about urban adventure. The grey, textured flacon captures that perfectly. The juice itself, although not particularly urban, is fresh, accessible and pleasant, with notes of Himalayan whorl flower, black tea and guaiac wood. Although not officially listed, I get a big marine whiff from this EDT that will go down well with its target market. Hugo Urban Journey EDT, R845 for 75ml and R1 155 for 125ml.
Bulgari Splendida Magnolia Sensuel EDP
Launched in 2017, the Bulgari Splendida line focuses on the most celebrated flowers in perfumery. So far we’ve had Bulgari Splendida Rose Rose EDP, Bulgari Splendida Iris d’Or EDP and Bulgari Splendida Jasmin Noir EDP. The latest, Bulgari Splendida Magnolia Sensuel EDP, was created by master perfumer Jacques Cavallier (Pasha de Cartier, L’Eau d’Issey, Lancôme Poeme, YSL M7).
There’s a green-ish opening to Bulgari Splendida Magnolia Sensuel, courtesy of mandarin and neroli essences. And then a big hit of Chinese magnolia comes through, with orange flower and jasmine absolute also noticeable. The sensual aspect is further enhanced by the base notes of patchouli, musk and vanilla.
“It all adds up to create a terrifically expensive- and luxurious-smelling scent.”
It all adds up to create a terrifically expensive- and luxurious-smelling scent (with a price tag to match). My only gripe is that like its namesake, this magnolia is all too brief on my skin. Bulgari Splendida Magnolia Sensuel EDP, R1 500 for 50ml and R2 115 for 100ml.
People are often surprised to hear that automotive companies are also in the fragrance biz. When I talk about car fragrance brands I don’t mean car fresheners. They are something altogether different. I am talking about the likes of Porsche, Ferrari, Mercedes-Benz and Bentley, all of which have released fragrances that might surprise you with their quality and value for money. For this post, I am going to focus on Jaguar fragrances, as they have been in the car fragrance biz longer than most.
You don’t have to be a petrol-head to appreciate Jaguar fragrances (or any other car fragrance brands for that matter). My eyes glaze over at the best of times when men speak about their wheels.
“You don’t have to be a petrol-head to appreciate Jaguar fragrances (or any other car fragrance brands for that matter).”
It all started with Jaguar for Men EDT (R549 for 100ml) for the British luxury car manufacturer. Launched in 1988, this EDT was created by none other than master perfumer Thierry Wasser (now Guerlain’s in-house perfumer). It’s an old-school treat with a herbal and soapy character after the citrus opening has subsided. The good news is that it celebrates its 30th year on the market in 2018. It’s also ridiculously cheap – roughly half the price of a designer fragrance.
And what about other Jaguar fragrances worth sniffing out? Here goes…
Jaguar For Men Evolution EDT
Yes, it’s not as distinctive as its predecessor Jaguar for Men. But this EDT created by Dominique Preyssas is one of those everyday (yet elegant scents) with fresh and spicy overtones. It’s also a bargain. Jaguar for Men Evolution EDT, R595 for 100ml.
Jaguar Classic Black EDT
I will apologise on behalf of Jaguar for the nasty silver plasticky packaging for this one. It’s worth overlooking, though, as this Dominique Preyssas scent strikes a good balance between its fruity (orange, green apple, tangerine notes), spicy (cardamom, nutmeg) and sensual (sandalwood, tonka bean, musk) elements. Jaguar Classic Black EDT, R895 for 100ml.
Jaguar Classic Red EDT
Please see above regarding the silver packaging. Karine Dubreuil (Gucci Pour Homme II, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc Extrême, L’Occitane en Provence Eau de Cade) created this EDT. It opens with the right kind of sweetness, courtesy of raspberry and blackcurrant notes. It’s got a warm and welcoming vibe, with jasmine leaves, bay and hot pepper oil, vanilla, tonka bean and patchouli notes. Jaguar Classic Red EDT, R895 for 100ml.
Jaguar Pace EDT
There’s a fresh and aromatic vibe to this EDT created by Alexandra Monet and Philippe Romano. The opening features a big hit of rosemary and black pepper notes, followed by cashmeran and French lavender notes. It’s a sporty scent and you don’t have to be a gym bunny to wear it. Jaguar Pace EDT, R895 for 100ml.
It was a year of fragrance surprises (Gucci Guilty Absolute), fragrance hype (Tom Ford Fucking Fabulous) and fragrance so-so’s. But this is not a post about the best and worst of 2017. Instead, my first post of 2018 will be devoted to one of the fragrance gems of last year: L’Envol de Cartier EDT.
I have a few favourite fragrance brands and Cartier is one of them. All of the Cartier fragrances I have tried have captured the brand’s ethos of luxurious craftsmanship. Jean-Claude Ellena’s classic creation, the supremely elegant Cartier Déclaration, is one of my all-time favourite fragrances. In recent years, much of this prestige is down to the sterling work of Mathilde Laurent, Cartier’s in-house perfumer.
SHOW ME THE HONEY
L’Envol de Cartier was launched as an EDP in 2016 and I was immediately taken by its rich and complex treatment of honey. So, of course, I expected great things of the EDT version, which was launched very quietly in 2017. Let’s just say Cartier doesn’t do hype.
The EDT opens with a burst of clean citrus notes, with honey slowly developing in the background. When the honey takes centre stage, it’s a light and airy take on the note. Good news for those who might have found the honey in the EDP version too much of a good thing. Artemisia adds a note of herbal interest, while the base of musk and guaiac notes balances the initial freshness of the scent. Unlike the EDP, there is no floral element and L’Envol de Cartier EDT is an altogether lighter and brighter affair.
Mathilde Laurent has created a fragrance of simplicity and beauty with L’Envol de Cartier EDT. Although officially a fragrance for men (not quite sure why), L’Envol de Cartier should definitely be explored by discerning men and women alike.
L’Envol de Cartier EDT, R985 for 60ml and R1 310 for 80ml.
I am frequently astonished by the number of fragrance launches every year. It’s why I spend a fair amount of time loitering with intent (aka market intell for fragrance reviews) in retailers. I like to think of it as an act of public service. What’s new, what’s worth spending your hard-earned cash on? What’s so-so (although, do keep in mind, it’s just my opinion)?
So in this last Fragroom fragrance reviews round-up of 2017, join me as I whizz through some of the year’s new launches. These include: John Varvatos Artisan Blu EDT, Elie Saab Girl Of Now EDP, Boss Bottled Man Of Today EDT, Missoni Parfum Pour Homme EDP, Montblanc Lady Emblem L’Eau EDT, Diesel Bad EDT, Zadig & Voltaire Just Rock! For Him EDT and Montblanc Legend Night EDP. Where known, I have listed the noses in brackets. We have quite a few fragrance reviews to get through, so let’s go…
JOHN VARVATOS ARTISAN BLU EDT (RODRIGO FLORES-ROUX)
Breezy and believable Mediterranean vibe in an uber-cool flacon. An old-school-ish composition of citrus, herbal and aquatic notes make this a must-try. R1 195 for 75 ml and R1 395 for 100ml.
ELIE SAAB GIRL OF NOW EDP (SOPHIE LABBE AND DOMINIQUE ROPION)
Such a pretty bottle! Such a terrible name! The juice itself is sweet and luxurious, with accents of almond and pistachio notes, among others. Better than its (millennial-bait) name suggests. R840 for 30ml, R1 330 for 50ml and R1 795 for 90ml.
BOSS BOTTLED MAN OF TODAY EDITION EDT
The latest in the Boss Bottled franchise is an unashamed crowd-pleaser. Nothing wrong with that when this combo of apple, geranium, cinnamon and woody notes is so easy to wear. R1 235 for 100ml.
MISSONI PARFUM POUR HOMME EDP
Med-inspired juice, with prominent notes of grapefruit, lemon, lavender, ginger and apple. Not particularly original, but nonetheless fresh and elegant. R790 for 50ml and R1 060 for 100ml.
MONTBLANC LADY EMBLEM L’EAU EDT (SONIA CONSTANT)
Fruity (peach, litchi) meets floralcy (magnolia, rose) in this lighter, summer garden-inspired incarnation of the Lady Emblem range. Sweet and sophisticated. R745 for 30ml, R995 for 50ml and R1 195 for 75ml.
DIESEL BAD EDP (ANNE FLIPO AND CARLOS BENAIM)
Ostensibly aimed at bad boys, it has intriguing notes of tobacco and caviar amid the more familiar (and respectable) bergamot, lavender and woody notes. R670 for 35ml, R950 for 50ml, R1 100 for 75ml and R1 290 for 125ml.
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE JUST ROCK! FOR HIM (NATHALIE LORSON AND AURELIEN GUICHARD)
A very accessible and appealing take on incense, with amber, patchouli, vanilla, tonka bean, woody and spicy notes in smooth support. Yum! R845 for 50ml and R1 075 for 100ml.
MONTBLANC LEGEND NIGHT EDP (ANTOINE MAISONDIEU AND OLIVIER PESCHEUX)
Who says night-time fragrances have to shout? This reserved EDP features notes of black vanilla, lavender, apple and mint. Give it time to make an impression. R645 for 30ml, R995 for 50ml and R1 295 for 100ml.
About six months ago I posted about why men should wear female fragrances, in particular floral fragrances. You can read that post here: https://fragroom.com/2017/06/12/men-should-wear-womens-fragrances. After all, why miss out on so many more options by limiting oneself to so-called masculine fragrances?
“Why miss out on so many more options by limiting oneself to so-called masculine fragrances?”
Since then I’ve been sniffing out some new floral fragrances. While officially female floral fragrances, brave boys should consider giving these a go, too. I have already shared my thoughts on this year’s mega-launch, the much-debated Gabrielle Chanel EDP (https://fragroom.com/2017/09/19/gabrielle-chanel-fragrance-review/). In brief, although it’s not particularly ground-breaking, it’s a good option if you are looking for a well-executed and elegant white floral.
Here are my thoughts on some of this year’s other floral fragrances, which range from the fresh to the full on.
STELLA McCARTNEY POP BLUEBELL EDP
The big designer fragrance brands are all hustling for the millennial moolah, with varying degrees of success and desperation. Stella McCartney Pop Bluebell is one of the better young’uns on the market. It features notes of bellflower (using biomimicry, as the bluebell is an endangered species), tuberose, violet, frangipani, tomato leaf, green mandarin and sandalwood. It’s more grown-up than its intended target market suggests. Stella McCartney Pop Bluebell EDP, R815 for 30ml, R1 105 for 50ml and R1 475 for 100ml
ELIZABETH ARDEN GREEN TEA MIMOSA EDT
Elizabeth Arden has a reputation for producing worthwhile budget fragrances and Green Tea Mimosa is another goodie. Green tea and citrus notes open this EDT, with mimosa then coming to the fore. There are also splashes of osmanthus, orris root, heliotrope and ambrette seed here. It nails summer freshness oh so well. And because it’s not over-powering, it’s the perfect intro to floral fragrances if you’re still not quite ready to go the full-on florals route. Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Mimosa EDT, R425 for 100ml.
GUCCI BLOOM EDP
Phew! Never mind full on – this is a super-intense white floral fragrance. It’s a collaboration between master perfumer Alberto Morillas and Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele. This EDP features natural tuberose absolute, natural jasmine absolute, jasmine bud extract and Rangoon creeper (apparently the first time it has been used in a fragrance). Gucci Bloom is like being in a hothouse – wonderfully intoxicating or get-me-out-of-here suffocating, depending on your mood. Gucci Bloom EDP, R975 for 30ml, R1 335 for 50ml and R1 710 for 75ml.
YARDLEY BOND ST NO 8 EDP
There’s no floral fireworks to be found in Yardley Bond St No 8. What you will find, though, is a slightly sweetish take on the genre, featuring notes of neroli, orange flower, white rose petals and musk. It fades quite quickly. But for the price, it’s a good enough cheapie. Yardley Bond St No 8 EDP, R399.95 for 50ml.
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE JUST ROCK! FOR HER EDP
The latest addition to the Zadig & Voltaire fragrance range features patchouli, vanilla, white jasmine absolute, tuberose absolute and woody notes. It’s a smooth, soft and creamy floriental, without the in-your-face associations of the genre. It comes in a striking sculptural bottle, designed to fit its male counterpart. I will review Zadig & Voltaire Just Rock! For Him in an upcoming post. Zadig & Voltaire Just Rock! For Her EDP, R785 for 30ml, R1 100 for 50ml and R1 460 for 100ml.
It’s intriguing to watch the evolution of a fragrance range from the launch of its pillar fragrance (Dunhill Icon) to the roll-out of its flankers (Dunhill Icon Absolute, Dunhill Icon Elite and Dunhill Icon Racing). It tells you something about the heritage of the brand and where it’s now re-staking its claim.
ICONIC: The Dunhill Icon fragrance collection, from left to right, Dunhill Icon, Dunhill Icon Racing, Dunhill Icon Elite and Dunhill Icon Absolute.
Dunhill has released many memorable fragrances since the launch of the superb Dunhill For Men in 1934. But the quality of releases over, say, the last two decades has been erratic, even for the most devoted fan. The launch of Dunhill Icon in 2014 was the esteemed British brand’s reclamation of all the iconic descriptors associated with its fragrances. “Quality”, “elegant”, “craftsmanship” and “British gentlemanliness”.
CRAFTSMANSHIP: Dunhill Icon was launched in 2015.
With the recent release of the latest addition to the Dunhill Icon range, Dunhill Icon Racing, I sniffed out all four fragrances. These are my impressions of each of the EDPs.
RACING GREEN: Dunhill Icon Racing is inspired by the British brand’s motoring heritage.
DUNHILL ICON EDP
Launched in 2015, Dunhill Icon makes its debut with this complex scent created by master perfumer Carlos Benaim. It’s so much more than its aromatic-woody profile suggests. Notes of neroli, bergamot, cardamom, lavender, black pepper, leather and oakmoss feature in this effervescent EDP.
DUNHILL ICON ABSOLUTE EDP
This later 2015 release ventures into more opulent territory. It’s the Dunhill Icon take on the oud trend, while not going the whole shebang. This is a refined treatment of agarwood, with bergamot, black pepper, jasmine, saffron, black rose, leather and tobacco leaf notes adding to its appeal.
DUNHILL ICON ELITE EDP
An unapologetically woody fragrance, with ebony and sandalwood notes featuring prominently. There’s also a smattering of citrus, cardamom, black pepper and suede notes in this 2016 release. It’s smooth, seductive and modern, without being overly trendy. We’re talking Dunhill bespoke suit kind of stuff.
DUNHILL ICON RACING EDP
Complete with stripes on the top of the bottle, Dunhill Icon Racing is inspired by Dunhill’s motoring heritage. To my nose, Dunhill Icon Racing is not as immediately impactful as its predecessors. Give it time, though, and this Laurent le Guernec composition make an impression with vetiver, lavender, cardamom, citrus and musk notes. I normally like my vetiver dark and dirty, but this fresher and younger interpretation is a winner too.
My conclusion? This is not a range, but rather an evolving fragrance collection that warrants its higher-than-the-average perfume price.
“Mark Eisen’s award-winning cylindrical metal and glass design for the Dunhill Icon collection gets it right on so many levels.”
I must also mention the design of the Dunhill Icon bottle. The fragrance industry has no shortage of beautiful bottles to behold. But South African Mark Eisen’s award-winning cylindrical metal and glass design for the Dunhill Icon collection gets it right on so many levels. Paying homage to Dunhill’s motoring heritage, its solid and classic design is a sophisticated statement that Dunhill Icon is a collection with longevity. You can read more about fashion designer-turned-industrial designer Mark Eisen (picture below) here: https://fragroom.com/2017/09/15/south-african-beauty/.
Dunhill Icon Racing EDP, R1 095 for 50ml and R1 595 for 100ml.
Things are getting hot here in Johannesburg, with the mercury starting to push the upper 20s and early 30s. Hot and bothered, I will add. I remain a goth at heart, so I can do without the relentless heat. On the plus side, the heat is the perfect excuse to indulge in a selection of new summer fragrances.
I am very flexi in my approach to the fragrances I use during different seasons. But I do enjoy the cologne/aquatic/citrus/fruity/floral spectrums more in summer. They go well with Johannesburg’s summer heat. The best summer fragrances are often an olfactory ticket to somewhere exotic/ glamorous/ unconnected. This is vital when I am spending way too much time banging away at the keyboard.
CITRUS CHOICE: L’Artisan Parfumeur Au Bord de L’Eau is an ideal summer scent.
So how do some of the newer summer fragrances feature on the Fragroom-o-meter?
ELIE SAAB RESORT COLLECTION LIMITED EDITION EDT
The smell of an exclusive villa vacation. Notes of red mandarin, frangipani, pomegranate nectar, jasmine sambac, orange blossom and patchouli waft through the air. Well done, Francis Kurkdjian! Elie Saab Resort Collection Limited Edition EDT, R1 110 for 50ml and R1 535 for 90ml.
CK ALL EDT
What a happy fragrance! Created by master perfumers Alberto Morillas and Harry Fremont, it features citrus, jasmine, freesia, lily, musk and amber notes. This EDT speaks to me: “Spray often, you grumpy bastard!” cK All EDT, R605 for 50ml, R875 for 100ml and R1 230 for 200ml.
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO UOMO CASUAL LIFE EDT
A cool cucumber opening (the listed notes say otherwise). Then there’s coffee, ambroxan and musk notes on the menu. Not as special as the tiramisu treat Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo, but still a reasonable casuale option. Salvatore Ferragamo Casual Life EDT, R1 000 for 50ml and R1 380 for 100ml.
MUGLER ALIEN EAU SUBLIME EDT
Mugler’s original creator, Dominique Ropion, brings a new sunnier dimension to this flanker. Jasmine, tiare flower, lemon, orange blossom and cashmeran take prominence. Typically Mugler, it’s bold and unapologetically maximalist. Mugler Alien Eau Sublime EDT, R855 for 100ml.
ISSEY MIYAKE L’EAU MAJEURE D’ISSEY EDT
Imagine a wind-swept walk on a deserted beach littered with driftwood. That’s the feeling I get from this one. Must be the aquatic, sea salt, grapefruit, bergamot, woody and cashmeran notes. A sombre scent. In a good way. Issey Miyake L’Eau Majeure d’Issey EDT, R965 for 50ml and R1 175 for 100ml.
COACH FOR MEN EDT
The first time I have tried a Coach fragrance. Featuring nashi pear, bergamot, cardamom, vetiver, suede, geranium and coriander notes, this versatile, easy-going fragrance is what I could call “nice”. Nothing wrong with that. Coach For Men EDT, R695 for 60ml and R995 for 100ml.
DOLCE & GABBANA LIGHT BLUE EAU INTENSE POUR HOMME
I didn’t detect much at first, but like waves on a Capri beach, the compliments came rolling in (stay with me). The more I wear it, the more I love Alberto Morillas’ cocktail of sea water, mandarin, frozen grapefruit, juniper, amberwood and musk notes. Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Eau Intense Pour Homme, R 655 for 50ml, R1 330 for 100ml and R1 925 for 200ml.
LACOSTE L’HOMME EDT
A stand-out rhubarb opening to this woody spicy spent that also features ginger, black pepper, dry amber and musk notes. It brings much-needed elegance to my typically interchangeable PJs/tracksuit gym ensemble. Lacoste L’Homme EDT, R950 for 50ml, R1260.00 for 100ml and R1 320 for 150ml.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR AU BORD DE L’EAU EDC
Taking inspiration from the Renoir masterpiece of the same name, Fabrice Pellegrin’s creation is the olfactory equivalent of an Impressionist palette of citrus-aromatic notes. Simplicity at its best, it features nuances of bergamot, lemon, violet, orange blossom, musk and rosemary. On my skin, I need to apply it fairly regularly. But when a fragrance is this good, I do so with absolute pleasure. L’Artisan Parfumeur Au Bord de L’Eau, R2 120 for 100ml, www.skins.co.za
If I am to believe all the b-r-e-a-t-h-y advertising, there’s a whole lot of seduction going on down at fragrance counters. Keeping up with this steady procession of new seduction scents is a job in itself. Here’s my round-up of the new arrivals that range from the come-closer-compelling to the oh-dear-trying-too-hard!
Gentleman Givenchy EDT
The complex and highly regarded Givenchy Gentleman (from the 1970s) is reworked for a modern market. Sweet and floral-y, Gentleman Givenchy features a wilted take on iris (an increasingly popular note in men’s fragrances).
I really wanted to like this new EDT, but some classics are best left well alone.
Gentleman Givenchy EDT, R1 010 for 50ml and R1 400 for 100ml.
Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de L’Homme Eau Electrique EDT
The latest addition to the L’Homme range is not the best in the line, but still has enough sensual oomph to warrant a spray or three. Make sure, though, to sniff out the classic seduction scents: Yves Saint Laurent L’Homme and Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de L’Homme.
YSL La Nuit de L’Homme Eau Electrique EDT, R1 177 for 100ml.
Bulgari Goldea The Roman Night EDP
Alberto Morillas delivers a well-executed dose of glamour and mystery with Bulgari Goldea The Roman Night. Featuring notes of black mulberry, black peony, night-blooming jasmine, tuberose, black musk, patchouli and vetiver, it’s one of the year’s better seduction scents.
Bulgari Goldea The Roman Night EDP, R925 for 30ml, R1 380 for 50ml and R1 655 for 75ml.
Carolina Herrera 212 VIP Black EDP
The shot of top notes (absinthe, anise, fennel) is intriguing (a vital element of seduction). But then makes way all too quickly for notes of lavender, musk and black vanilla husk. Not bad (another round of absinthe please!) and the solid glass bottle is pure eye-candy.
Carolina Herrera 212 VIP Men Black EDP, R955 for 50ml and R1 200 for 100ml.
Jacques Bogart Club 75 EDT
Sure, this cocktail of fruits, lavender and woods is not the most original of seduction scents. But Jacques Bogart Club 75 more than compensates with a potency and quality that puts many big-name designer fragrances to shame. And the value for money can’t be beat!
Jacques Bogart Club 75 EDT, R695 for 100ml.
Montblanc Emblem Absolu EDT
Are men’s designer fragrances getting sweeter? Montblanc Emblem Absolu, a fruity woody oriental, is another sweetie. Not particularly distinctive on my skin, but I did hear two women at a fragrance counter proclaim they would give their husbands “a second child if he wore this”. Va-va-voom!
Montblanc Emblem Absolu EDT, R1 295 for 100ml.
Boss The Scent Intense For Her EDP
Boss The Scent For Her gets the intense treatment, with peach, honey, osmanthus, cacao and vanilla notes in the mix. The initial peach opening is quite overpowering. So best give it time to settle before deciding if this is going to be added to your repertoire of seduction scents.
Boss The Scent Intense For Her EDP, R1 010 for 30ml and R1 360 for 50ml.
Did the world move for you on 1 September 2017? More precisely, did you feel the perfume world move? After all, the most important perfume event of 2017 happened on this day. No, I’m not talking about the launch of Tom Ford Fucking Fabulous, although that was a close second. I’m talking about the worldwide launch of Gabrielle Chanel EDP. The fragrance industry has perfected the art of hype. And as far as hype goes, the first brand-new Chanel fragrance launch in 15 years (since the highly regarded Chanel Chance EDP in 2002) was fraught with expectation, hubris and debate.
In the month leading up to the worldwide launch and for the past three weeks, I deliberately avoided reading all reviews about Gabrielle Chanel. So apologies to all those fragrance bloggers whose notification mails I deleted. I didn’t want my thoughts on this fragrance to be influenced in any way by other opinions.
FREE STATE OF MIND: A family road-trip to escape the buzz and hype.
I decided instead to bring Gabrielle Chanel on a family road trip to the eastern Free State. To spend some time with it, on its own terms. I thought the Free State would be a fitting environment to do this, as this province of South Africa captures some of the qualities Chanel herself is renowned for. A pioneering and resilient spirit and an uncompromising style that can only come from suffering and endurance. Although the Chanel aesthetic is often associated with pearls and black dresses, Coco was never a prissy missy.
PIONEERING SPIRIT: A Man Ray portrait of Coco Chanel. Pic courtesy of Chanel.
So what did I learn about Gabrielle Chanel the fragrance from my relatively secluded time with it? Well, it’s clearly aimed at a new generation of younger women, who might find Chanel No5 “overpowering”, “old-fashioned” and “one of my mother’s favourites”. No doubt about it, this is Chanel’s big push for the “millennial” market.
The result is a modern scent that has a dominant heart of white florals (jasmine, ylang-ylang, tuberose, orange blossoms). The listed top notes include mandarin, black currant and grapefruit, but I only picked up grapefruit from those. The floral heart is fresh and contemporary, albeit not particularly original, and eventually makes way for a more traditional base of sandalwood and musk notes. I enjoyed this more subdued element after the initial spark of white florals had subsided.
TREE OF LIFE: Gabrielle Chanel’s road trip included this vivid landscape.
While I am both male and 40-something (ahem, clearly not the target market), Gabrielle Chanel is very easy to wear, accessible and undeniably appealing. It will probably appeal to many other non-millennials too. And now for the big question…
IS GABRIELLE CHANEL A CLASSIC IN THE MAKING?
Mais non! And it doesn’t have to be. If the brief for Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, was to create a modern, elegant and luxurious scent, he has succeeded admirably.
I had no “classic” expectations of Gabrielle Chanel. After all, is it realistic to expect another iconic scent like Chanel No5? I was going to title this post “Keep Calm & Gabrielle Chanel” and perhaps that’s the best way to approach this EDP. If you have unrealistic expectations of it, you’ll probably be disappointed. If you can appreciate it for what it is, then it’s a very pleasurable, well-executed scent.
Either way, do expect a roll-out of Gabrielle Chanel flankers over the next five years, as Chanel has invested heavily in this new pillar fragrance and left no details to chance. The luxe packaging and fine-glass bottle alone will tell you that.
Gabrielle Chanel EDP, R1 745 for 50ml and R2 465 for 100ml.
VISIONARY: A portrait of a young Coco Chanel, taken in 1909. Pic courtesy of Chanel.
