FRAGRANCE REVIEWS Archives - Page 12 of 14

April 14, 2018

John Varvatos Artisan Pure EDT, Elie Saab In White EDP, Coach Floral EDP, Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pure Nectar de Parfum, Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! Capsule Collection EDT Reviews

After an initially slow start to the year, the fragrance counters are starting to get busy with all sorts of new arrivals. We’ve got a pretty mixed bag here, with John Varvatos Artisan Pure, Elie Saab In White, Coach Floral EDP reviews. Are they worth getting out of bed for?

John Varvatos Artisan Pure EDT (Nose: Rodrigo Flores-Roux)

I am a big fan of Flores-Roux’s work for John Varvatos fragrances. There’s always an impressively long list of notes for John Varvatos fragrances and Artisan Pure is no different. Inspired by the lush Xalapa region of Mexico, it opens with a big punch of sunny citrus notes. Then there’s a herbal heart (with a standout Italian orris note) and woody base. It’s deliciously crisp summer freshness in a beautifully designed bottle. R1 225 for 75ml and R1 495 for 125ml.

Coach Floral EDP (Noses: Shyamala Maisondieu, Nadège le Garlantezec and Nathalie Gracia-Cetto)

Pretty bottle. Pretty fragrance. While Coach Floral EDP isn’t going to be getting any awards for originality, it’s a very accessible and pleasant fragrance. Heart notes include tea rose, jasmine sambac and gardenia. R795 for 30ml, R1 190 for 50ml and R1 490 for 90ml.

Elie Saab In White EDP (Nose: Jerôme Di Marino)

I ain’t no blushing bride, but that doesn’t stop me from liking this wedding-inspired fruity-floral-chypre fragrance. It has a lovely creamy quality throughout, with notes that include mandarin essence, blackcurrant bud, jasmine sambac, orange blossom absolute, vanilla and ylang-ylang. R890 for 30ml, R1 410 for 50ml and R1 900 for 90ml.

Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! Capsule Collection EDT Pour Lui (Noses: Nathalie Lorson and Aurelien Guichard)

Okay, so strictly speaking this is not a new fragrance (Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! was originally launched in 2016). But this limited-edition collaboration with NYC tattoo artist Virginia Elwood is a good reminder why Zadig & Voltaire fragrances are worth sniffing out. Featuring notes of incense, vanilla, pepper and sandalwood, it’s an easy-going and very appealing take on the smoky, woody theme. R475 for 20ml and R1 085 for 100ml.

Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pure Nectar de Parfum (Noses: Dominique Ropion and Fanny Bal)

Previous fragrances in the L’Eau d’Issey Pure range have interpreted a drop of dew (L’Eau d’Issey Pure EDP) and delicate petals (L’Eau d’Issey Pure EDT). The latest, Nectar de Parfum, is more floral in character. It ventures into sweet territory, with initial stand-out notes of pear, honey and rose. Hallelujah, it’s not the cloying variety and the aquatic element will be very familiar to Issey Miyake fragrance fans. R925 for 30ml, R1 430 for 50ml and R1 820 for 90ml.

April 6, 2018April 7, 2018

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense Review

When Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum was launched in 2001, it became another huge success for the French luxury brand. Recently one of the bloggers I follow on Instagram shared how it became her wedding fragrance and how much she was looking forward to trying the new Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense.

It’s easy to see why Chanel Coco Mademoiselle is so popular. Created by Jacques Polge, this floriental seduced a generation of women with its contrasts of fresh citrus and sensual patchouli. Official listed notes of this fragrance include: orange, mandarin orange, orange blossom and bergamot (top). Mimosa, jasmine, Turkish rose and ylang-ylang (middle). Tonka bean, patchouli, opoponax, vanilla, vetiver and white musk (base).

“This floriental seduced a generation of women with its contrasts of fresh citrus and sensual patchouli.”

SO WHAT DOES CHANEL COCO MADEMOISELLE EAU DE PARFUM INTENSE SMELL LIKE?

A Chanel fragrance launch (whether a new pillar or flanker) is always a bit of an event. And Chanel Coco Mademoiselle EDP Intense is no exception, with the powerful Chanel marketing machine buzzing away since its launch at the beginning of March 2018.

Ok, so first of all let’s make it clear that Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense is not a radical reworking of the original. It opens with the familiar citrus burst of the original. But Indonesian patchouli has been pumped to the max, with rose and jasmine in close support. The sensual aspect has also been heightened with Madagascan vanilla and tonka bean at the fore. This all adds up to create a more sophisticated scent, with a good balance of the fresh and the sensual.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense - Olivier Polge

PATCHOULI POWER: Olivier Polge, Chanel’s in-house perfumer. Image courtesy of Chanel.

Olivier Polge, Chanel’s in-house perfumer and (excuse my basic French) le fils de Jacques Polge, has created a worthy successor to Chanel Coco Mademoiselle EDP.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense, R1 745 for 50ml and R2 475 for 100ml.

March 9, 2018

Twilly d’Hermès EDP Review

One of the buzzwords I particularly dislike is “millennials”. It’s over used and comes with massive (and questionable) generalisations. So forgive me while I use the term to make a point how, like many others, the perfume industry is making a big play for the minds and moolah of millennials. Some of these attempts fall horribly and/or laughably flat because either they try too hard to speak to younger consumers or fail to offer them anything new or exciting. I am happy to report, though, that Twilly d’Hermès EDP, launched in 2017, gets it right in many ways.

GINGERLY GRACE

Hermes’s in-house perfumer, the masterful Christine Nagel, has created a modern scent for younger women that avoids the sugar overload so prevalent in many younger fragrances.

Twilly d’Hermès opens with a gorgeous ginger note (there’s also some citrus about there). Ginger notes can be quite in your face if not treated well, but this one is fresh and fragrant. The kind you’ll want to spray several times to experience again. It draws you in immediately and irresistibly.

“This ginger note is fresh and fragrant. It draws you in immediately and irresistibly.”

Tuberose is at the heart of the fragrance, not overpoweringly so – more a hint of it. Which makes a change from some of the heavy-hitting tuberoses on the market right now.

Twilly d’Hermès is all tied up (I had to use a scarf analogy somewhere) rather nicely with a creamy sandalwood note. Talking of scarves, the bottle is suitably playful and chic, with its bowler hat and Twilly scarf adornment.

Before I go, let me state that Twilly d’Hermès is too good to be confined to its target market of younger women. It’s certainly youthful, but it’s not girlie-girlie and twee. So I would highly recommend that older women and adventurous men sniff this one out.

Twilly d’Hermès EDP, R955 for 30ml, R1 520 for 50ml and R2 100 for 85ml.

March 2, 2018

Going large (all 300ml of it!) with Bleu de Chanel EDP

The launch this week of the limited-edition 300ml of Bleu de Chanel EDP is as good a time as any to acknowledge why this woody-aromatic fragrance has become such a top seller for the French luxury fashion house.

Bleu de Chanel was originally launched as an EDT in 2010. Created by the esteemed Jacques Polge (Chanel’s then in-house perfumer), Bleu de Chanel became the new standard bearer for men’s designer fine fragrances. Several whiffs will tell you why. It’s sophisticated and elegant without trying too hard – in that very French, very Chanel way – from the super-minimalist dark blue bottle to the juice.

“It’s sophisticated and elegant without trying too hard – in that very French, very Chanel way.”

FROM CHANEL BLEU EDT TO CHANEL BLEU EDP

In 2014, Polge gave Bleu de Chanel the EDP treatment. I won’t get into the endless EDP vs EDT debate here. Suffice to say, both are worthy of your attention and your preference no doubt will be very personal.

Both share a highly distinctive citrus-fresh opening, with grapefruit at the fore. The EDP has standout incense, vetiver, mint, cedar and amber notes. Super smooth, sensual and sexy, you’ll be hard pressed to find another fragrance that gets as many compliments as Bleu de Chanel EDP. It’s also remarkably versatile, from day to night and from casual-chic to more formal occasions.

The problem with success is that everybody wants to copy you – or hate you. I won’t mention any names, but Bleu de Chanel has been shamelessly cloned by competitors. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery and all that.

“The problem with success is that everybody wants to copy you – or hate you.”

Perfume snobs will claim Bleu de Chanel EDP has become too popular for its own good. Au contraire! As if creating a quality perfume that brings pleasure and joy to many men and women – and yes, profits to Chanel – is not worthy of praise and recognition.

Bleu de Chanel EDP, R4 160 for 300ml.

February 24, 2018

Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme + Boss The Scent Parfum Edition + Bulgari Splendida Magnolia Sensuel + Hugo Urban Journey Reviews

January tends to be a very slow month in perfume-land, with a lull in new launches. Probably a very good idea after the always-more-expensive-than-budgeted-for holidays. However, two months into 2018, I’ve got some newbie reviews for you.

Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme EDP

For a while Gucci became known for its middling fragrances. The not bad, but not particularly earth-shatteringly good either variety. That all started to change in 2017 with the release of the leather-licious Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Homme EDP and the white florals-rich Gucci Bloom EDP. You can read those reviews here: https://fragroom.com/2017/07/08/gucci-guilty-absolute-prada-luna-rossa-carbon-thierry-mugler-amen-kryptomint/ and https://fragroom.com/2017/11/29/female-floral-fragrances-for-men/. These stand-out fragrances, collaborations between Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele and master perfumer Alberto Morillas, made it clear that the Italian luxury brand was back in the fragrance game.

ABSOLUTE MASTERY: Alberto Morillas, the creator of Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Homme and Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme. Pic courtesy of Coty.

Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme is also an Alberto Morillas creation. Like its male counterpart, it takes some bold risks. It opens with an unmistakable blackberry note, luscious and intriguing. But it’s not just big on fruit. A Bulgarian rose develops in the background, adding to the richness, while also tempering the sweetness. Those familiar with Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Homme might recognise the Goldenwood note, an extract of the nootka cypress which brings a dense woodiness to the proceedings. The patchouli base completes the sensuality.

While undeniably lavish, Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme is also very wearable, for both women and men. Michele wanted an unconventional romantic fragrance and Morillas has more than delivered on the brief. Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme EDP, R1 005 for 30ml, R1 385 for 50ml and R1 825 for 90ml.

“While undeniably lavish, Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme is also very wearable, for both women and men.”

Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Him

It seems like I reviewed new Boss The Scent fragrances very recently. Such is the relentless cycle of modern perfumery. Establish the pillar and follow with a succession of flankers. The follow-up to Boss The Scent For Him Intense comes in a super-sexy flacon. The juice is surprisingly subtle for a male seduction scent. Maninka fruit, sourced from South Africa, is still at the heart of it, with ginger, orris concrete and patchouli notes in support. Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Him, R1 660 for 100ml.

Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Her

If Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Him is curiously understated, the female version is positively on steroids. It opens with a big honeyed peach note that’s love-it-or-hate-it stuff. Osmanthus absolute, cistus absolute and roasted cocoa also feature in the mix. Talking of relentless cycles, Boss The Scent EDT For Her will be launched in April. I can’t keep up. Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Her, R1 375 for 50ml.

Hugo Urban Journey EDT

The latest addition to the long-running Hugo franchise is all about urban adventure. The grey, textured flacon captures that perfectly. The juice itself, although not particularly urban, is fresh, accessible and pleasant, with notes of Himalayan whorl flower, black tea and guaiac wood. Although not officially listed, I get a big marine whiff from this EDT that will go down well with its target market. Hugo Urban Journey EDT, R845 for 75ml and R1 155 for 125ml.

Bulgari Splendida Magnolia Sensuel EDP

Launched in 2017, the Bulgari Splendida line focuses on the most celebrated flowers in perfumery. So far we’ve had Bulgari Splendida Rose Rose EDP, Bulgari Splendida Iris d’Or EDP and Bulgari Splendida Jasmin Noir EDP. The latest, Bulgari Splendida Magnolia Sensuel EDP, was created by master perfumer Jacques Cavallier (Pasha de Cartier, L’Eau d’Issey, Lancôme Poeme, YSL M7).

There’s a green-ish opening to Bulgari Splendida Magnolia Sensuel, courtesy of mandarin and neroli essences. And then a big hit of Chinese magnolia comes through, with orange flower and jasmine absolute also noticeable. The sensual aspect is further enhanced by the base notes of patchouli, musk and vanilla.

“It all adds up to create a terrifically expensive- and luxurious-smelling scent.”

It all adds up to create a terrifically expensive- and luxurious-smelling scent (with a price tag to match). My only gripe is that like its namesake, this magnolia is all too brief on my skin. Bulgari Splendida Magnolia Sensuel EDP, R1 500 for 50ml and R2 115 for 100ml.

February 3, 2018

Jaguar Fragrances: Here Kitty, Kitty…

People are often surprised to hear that automotive companies are also in the fragrance biz. When I talk about car fragrance brands I don’t mean car fresheners. They are something altogether different. I am talking about the likes of Porsche, Ferrari, Mercedes-Benz and Bentley, all of which have released fragrances that might surprise you with their quality and value for money. For this post, I am going to focus on Jaguar fragrances, as they have been in the car fragrance biz longer than most.

You don’t have to be a petrol-head to appreciate Jaguar fragrances (or any other car fragrance brands for that matter). My eyes glaze over at the best of times when men speak about their wheels.

“You don’t have to be a petrol-head to appreciate Jaguar fragrances (or any other car fragrance brands for that matter).”

It all started with Jaguar for Men EDT (R549 for 100ml) for the British luxury car manufacturer. Launched in 1988, this EDT was created by none other than master perfumer Thierry Wasser (now Guerlain’s in-house perfumer). It’s an old-school treat with a herbal and soapy character after the citrus opening has subsided. The good news is that it celebrates its 30^th year on the market in 2018. It’s also ridiculously cheap – roughly half the price of a designer fragrance.

And what about other Jaguar fragrances worth sniffing out? Here goes…

Jaguar For Men Evolution EDT

Yes, it’s not as distinctive as its predecessor Jaguar for Men. But this EDT created by Dominique Preyssas is one of those everyday (yet elegant scents) with fresh and spicy overtones. It’s also a bargain. Jaguar for Men Evolution EDT, R595 for 100ml.

Jaguar Classic Black EDT

I will apologise on behalf of Jaguar for the nasty silver plasticky packaging for this one. It’s worth overlooking, though, as this Dominique Preyssas scent strikes a good balance between its fruity (orange, green apple, tangerine notes), spicy (cardamom, nutmeg) and sensual (sandalwood, tonka bean, musk) elements. Jaguar Classic Black EDT, R895 for 100ml.

Jaguar Classic Red EDT

Please see above regarding the silver packaging. Karine Dubreuil (Gucci Pour Homme II, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc Extrême, L’Occitane en Provence Eau de Cade) created this EDT. It opens with the right kind of sweetness, courtesy of raspberry and blackcurrant notes. It’s got a warm and welcoming vibe, with jasmine leaves, bay and hot pepper oil, vanilla, tonka bean and patchouli notes. Jaguar Classic Red EDT, R895 for 100ml.

Jaguar Pace EDT

There’s a fresh and aromatic vibe to this EDT created by Alexandra Monet and Philippe Romano. The opening features a big hit of rosemary and black pepper notes, followed by cashmeran and French lavender notes. It’s a sporty scent and you don’t have to be a gym bunny to wear it. Jaguar Pace EDT, R895 for 100ml.

January 10, 2018

L’Envol de Cartier EDT Review

It was a year of fragrance surprises (Gucci Guilty Absolute), fragrance hype (Tom Ford Fucking Fabulous) and fragrance so-so’s. But this is not a post about the best and worst of 2017. Instead, my first post of 2018 will be devoted to one of the fragrance gems of last year: L’Envol de Cartier EDT.

I have a few favourite fragrance brands and Cartier is one of them. All of the Cartier fragrances I have tried have captured the brand’s ethos of luxurious craftsmanship. Jean-Claude Ellena’s classic creation, the supremely elegant Cartier Déclaration, is one of my all-time favourite fragrances. In recent years, much of this prestige is down to the sterling work of Mathilde Laurent, Cartier’s in-house perfumer.

SHOW ME THE HONEY

L’Envol de Cartier was launched as an EDP in 2016 and I was immediately taken by its rich and complex treatment of honey. So, of course, I expected great things of the EDT version, which was launched very quietly in 2017. Let’s just say Cartier doesn’t do hype.

The EDT opens with a burst of clean citrus notes, with honey slowly developing in the background. When the honey takes centre stage, it’s a light and airy take on the note. Good news for those who might have found the honey in the EDP version too much of a good thing. Artemisia adds a note of herbal interest, while the base of musk and guaiac notes balances the initial freshness of the scent. Unlike the EDP, there is no floral element and L’Envol de Cartier EDT is an altogether lighter and brighter affair.

Mathilde Laurent has created a fragrance of simplicity and beauty with L’Envol de Cartier EDT. Although officially a fragrance for men (not quite sure why), L’Envol de Cartier should definitely be explored by discerning men and women alike.

L’Envol de Cartier EDT, R985 for 60ml and R1 310 for 80ml.

December 19, 2017

Fragrance Reviews: John Varvatos Artisan Blu EDT + Elie Saab Girl Of Now EDP + Boss Bottled Man Of Today EDT + Missoni Parfum Pour Homme EDP + Montblanc Lady Emblem L’Eau EDT + Diesel Bad EDT + Zadig & Voltaire Just Rock! For Him EDT + Montblanc Legend Night EDP

I am frequently astonished by the number of fragrance launches every year. It’s why I spend a fair amount of time loitering with intent (aka market intell for fragrance reviews) in retailers. I like to think of it as an act of public service. What’s new, what’s worth spending your hard-earned cash on? What’s so-so (although, do keep in mind, it’s just my opinion)?

So in this last Fragroom fragrance reviews round-up of 2017, join me as I whizz through some of the year’s new launches. These include: John Varvatos Artisan Blu EDT, Elie Saab Girl Of Now EDP, Boss Bottled Man Of Today EDT, Missoni Parfum Pour Homme EDP, Montblanc Lady Emblem L’Eau EDT, Diesel Bad EDT, Zadig & Voltaire Just Rock! For Him EDT and Montblanc Legend Night EDP. Where known, I have listed the noses in brackets. We have quite a few fragrance reviews to get through, so let’s go…

JOHN VARVATOS ARTISAN BLU EDT (RODRIGO FLORES-ROUX)

Breezy and believable Mediterranean vibe in an uber-cool flacon. An old-school-ish composition of citrus, herbal and aquatic notes make this a must-try. R1 195 for 75 ml and R1 395 for 100ml.

ELIE SAAB GIRL OF NOW EDP (SOPHIE LABBE AND DOMINIQUE ROPION)

Such a pretty bottle! Such a terrible name! The juice itself is sweet and luxurious, with accents of almond and pistachio notes, among others. Better than its (millennial-bait) name suggests. R840 for 30ml, R1 330 for 50ml and R1 795 for 90ml.

BOSS BOTTLED MAN OF TODAY EDITION EDT

The latest in the Boss Bottled franchise is an unashamed crowd-pleaser. Nothing wrong with that when this combo of apple, geranium, cinnamon and woody notes is so easy to wear. R1 235 for 100ml.

MISSONI PARFUM POUR HOMME EDP

Med-inspired juice, with prominent notes of grapefruit, lemon, lavender, ginger and apple. Not particularly original, but nonetheless fresh and elegant. R790 for 50ml and R1 060 for 100ml.

MONTBLANC LADY EMBLEM L’EAU EDT (SONIA CONSTANT)

Fruity (peach, litchi) meets floralcy (magnolia, rose) in this lighter, summer garden-inspired incarnation of the Lady Emblem range. Sweet and sophisticated. R745 for 30ml, R995 for 50ml and R1 195 for 75ml.

DIESEL BAD EDP (ANNE FLIPO AND CARLOS BENAIM)

Ostensibly aimed at bad boys, it has intriguing notes of tobacco and caviar amid the more familiar (and respectable) bergamot, lavender and woody notes. R670 for 35ml, R950 for 50ml, R1 100 for 75ml and R1 290 for 125ml.

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE JUST ROCK! FOR HIM (NATHALIE LORSON AND AURELIEN GUICHARD)

A very accessible and appealing take on incense, with amber, patchouli, vanilla, tonka bean, woody and spicy notes in smooth support. Yum! R845 for 50ml and R1 075 for 100ml.

MONTBLANC LEGEND NIGHT EDP (ANTOINE MAISONDIEU AND OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

Who says night-time fragrances have to shout? This reserved EDP features notes of black vanilla, lavender, apple and mint. Give it time to make an impression. R645 for 30ml, R995 for 50ml and R1 295 for 100ml.

November 29, 2017

Female Floral Fragrances For Big Boys: From Fresh To Full On

About six months ago I posted about why men should wear female fragrances, in particular floral fragrances. You can read that post here: https://fragroom.com/2017/06/12/men-should-wear-womens-fragrances. After all, why miss out on so many more options by limiting oneself to so-called masculine fragrances?

“Why miss out on so many more options by limiting oneself to so-called masculine fragrances?”

Since then I’ve been sniffing out some new floral fragrances. While officially female floral fragrances, brave boys should consider giving these a go, too. I have already shared my thoughts on this year’s mega-launch, the much-debated Gabrielle Chanel EDP (https://fragroom.com/2017/09/19/gabrielle-chanel-fragrance-review/). In brief, although it’s not particularly ground-breaking, it’s a good option if you are looking for a well-executed and elegant white floral.

Here are my thoughts on some of this year’s other floral fragrances, which range from the fresh to the full on.

STELLA McCARTNEY POP BLUEBELL EDP

The big designer fragrance brands are all hustling for the millennial moolah, with varying degrees of success and desperation. Stella McCartney Pop Bluebell is one of the better young’uns on the market. It features notes of bellflower (using biomimicry, as the bluebell is an endangered species), tuberose, violet, frangipani, tomato leaf, green mandarin and sandalwood. It’s more grown-up than its intended target market suggests. Stella McCartney Pop Bluebell EDP, R815 for 30ml, R1 105 for 50ml and R1 475 for 100ml

ELIZABETH ARDEN GREEN TEA MIMOSA EDT

Elizabeth Arden has a reputation for producing worthwhile budget fragrances and Green Tea Mimosa is another goodie. Green tea and citrus notes open this EDT, with mimosa then coming to the fore. There are also splashes of osmanthus, orris root, heliotrope and ambrette seed here. It nails summer freshness oh so well. And because it’s not over-powering, it’s the perfect intro to floral fragrances if you’re still not quite ready to go the full-on florals route. Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Mimosa EDT, R425 for 100ml.

GUCCI BLOOM EDP

Phew! Never mind full on – this is a super-intense white floral fragrance. It’s a collaboration between master perfumer Alberto Morillas and Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele. This EDP features natural tuberose absolute, natural jasmine absolute, jasmine bud extract and Rangoon creeper (apparently the first time it has been used in a fragrance). Gucci Bloom is like being in a hothouse – wonderfully intoxicating or get-me-out-of-here suffocating, depending on your mood. Gucci Bloom EDP, R975 for 30ml, R1 335 for 50ml and R1 710 for 75ml.

YARDLEY BOND ST NO 8 EDP

There’s no floral fireworks to be found in Yardley Bond St No 8. What you will find, though, is a slightly sweetish take on the genre, featuring notes of neroli, orange flower, white rose petals and musk. It fades quite quickly. But for the price, it’s a good enough cheapie. Yardley Bond St No 8 EDP, R399.95 for 50ml.

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE JUST ROCK! FOR HER EDP

The latest addition to the Zadig & Voltaire fragrance range features patchouli, vanilla, white jasmine absolute, tuberose absolute and woody notes. It’s a smooth, soft and creamy floriental, without the in-your-face associations of the genre. It comes in a striking sculptural bottle, designed to fit its male counterpart. I will review Zadig & Voltaire Just Rock! For Him in an upcoming post. Zadig & Voltaire Just Rock! For Her EDP, R785 for 30ml, R1 100 for 50ml and R1 460 for 100ml.

November 6, 2017November 7, 2017

Dunhill Icon Fragrance Reviews: Dunhill Icon, Dunhill Icon Absolute, Dunhill Icon Elite, Dunhill Icon Racing

It’s intriguing to watch the evolution of a fragrance range from the launch of its pillar fragrance (Dunhill Icon) to the roll-out of its flankers (Dunhill Icon Absolute, Dunhill Icon Elite and Dunhill Icon Racing). It tells you something about the heritage of the brand and where it’s now re-staking its claim.

ICONIC: The Dunhill Icon fragrance collection, from left to right, Dunhill Icon, Dunhill Icon Racing, Dunhill Icon Elite and Dunhill Icon Absolute.

Dunhill has released many memorable fragrances since the launch of the superb Dunhill For Men in 1934. But the quality of releases over, say, the last two decades has been erratic, even for the most devoted fan. The launch of Dunhill Icon in 2014 was the esteemed British brand’s reclamation of all the iconic descriptors associated with its fragrances. “Quality”, “elegant”, “craftsmanship” and “British gentlemanliness”.

CRAFTSMANSHIP: Dunhill Icon was launched in 2015.

With the recent release of the latest addition to the Dunhill Icon range, Dunhill Icon Racing, I sniffed out all four fragrances. These are my impressions of each of the EDPs.

RACING GREEN: Dunhill Icon Racing is inspired by the British brand’s motoring heritage.

DUNHILL ICON EDP

Launched in 2015, Dunhill Icon makes its debut with this complex scent created by master perfumer Carlos Benaim. It’s so much more than its aromatic-woody profile suggests. Notes of neroli, bergamot, cardamom, lavender, black pepper, leather and oakmoss feature in this effervescent EDP.

DUNHILL ICON ABSOLUTE EDP

This later 2015 release ventures into more opulent territory. It’s the Dunhill Icon take on the oud trend, while not going the whole shebang. This is a refined treatment of agarwood, with bergamot, black pepper, jasmine, saffron, black rose, leather and tobacco leaf notes adding to its appeal.

DUNHILL ICON ELITE EDP

An unapologetically woody fragrance, with ebony and sandalwood notes featuring prominently. There’s also a smattering of citrus, cardamom, black pepper and suede notes in this 2016 release. It’s smooth, seductive and modern, without being overly trendy. We’re talking Dunhill bespoke suit kind of stuff.

DUNHILL ICON RACING EDP

Complete with stripes on the top of the bottle, Dunhill Icon Racing is inspired by Dunhill’s motoring heritage. To my nose, Dunhill Icon Racing is not as immediately impactful as its predecessors. Give it time, though, and this Laurent le Guernec composition make an impression with vetiver, lavender, cardamom, citrus and musk notes. I normally like my vetiver dark and dirty, but this fresher and younger interpretation is a winner too.

My conclusion? This is not a range, but rather an evolving fragrance collection that warrants its higher-than-the-average perfume price.

“Mark Eisen’s award-winning cylindrical metal and glass design for the Dunhill Icon collection gets it right on so many levels.”

I must also mention the design of the Dunhill Icon bottle. The fragrance industry has no shortage of beautiful bottles to behold. But South African Mark Eisen’s award-winning cylindrical metal and glass design for the Dunhill Icon collection gets it right on so many levels. Paying homage to Dunhill’s motoring heritage, its solid and classic design is a sophisticated statement that Dunhill Icon is a collection with longevity. You can read more about fashion designer-turned-industrial designer Mark Eisen (picture below) here: https://fragroom.com/2017/09/15/south-african-beauty/.

Dunhill Icon Racing EDP, R1 095 for 50ml and R1 595 for 100ml.

John Varvatos Artisan Pure EDT (Nose: Rodrigo Flores-Roux)

Coach Floral EDP (Noses: Shyamala Maisondieu, Nadège le Garlantezec and Nathalie Gracia-Cetto)

Elie Saab In White EDP (Nose: Jerôme Di Marino)

Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! Capsule Collection EDT Pour Lui (Noses: Nathalie Lorson and Aurelien Guichard)

Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pure Nectar de Parfum (Noses: Dominique Ropion and Fanny Bal)

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SO WHAT DOES CHANEL COCO MADEMOISELLE EAU DE PARFUM INTENSE SMELL LIKE?

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GINGERLY GRACE

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FROM CHANEL BLEU EDT TO CHANEL BLEU EDP

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Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme EDP

Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Him

Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Her

Hugo Urban Journey EDT

Bulgari Splendida Magnolia Sensuel EDP

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Jaguar For Men Evolution EDT

Jaguar Classic Black EDT

Jaguar Classic Red EDT

Jaguar Pace EDT

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SHOW ME THE HONEY

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JOHN VARVATOS ARTISAN BLU EDT (RODRIGO FLORES-ROUX)

ELIE SAAB GIRL OF NOW EDP (SOPHIE LABBE AND DOMINIQUE ROPION)

BOSS BOTTLED MAN OF TODAY EDITION EDT

MISSONI PARFUM POUR HOMME EDP

MONTBLANC LADY EMBLEM L’EAU EDT (SONIA CONSTANT)

DIESEL BAD EDP (ANNE FLIPO AND CARLOS BENAIM)

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE JUST ROCK! FOR HIM (NATHALIE LORSON AND AURELIEN GUICHARD)

MONTBLANC LEGEND NIGHT EDP (ANTOINE MAISONDIEU AND OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

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STELLA McCARTNEY POP BLUEBELL EDP

ELIZABETH ARDEN GREEN TEA MIMOSA EDT

GUCCI BLOOM EDP

YARDLEY BOND ST NO 8 EDP

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE JUST ROCK! FOR HER EDP

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DUNHILL ICON EDP

DUNHILL ICON ABSOLUTE EDP

DUNHILL ICON ELITE EDP

DUNHILL ICON RACING EDP

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