The Comfort of Smells

Comforting Smells - Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir EDP

I’ve been thinking a lot about comforting smells recently. Let’s just say it’s been a relentless year on the work and health fronts. We all know smells affect our moods – for better or worse. Science tells us how they can influence our emotions and even our work and consumption behaviour. For fascinating insights on the subject and associative learning, I recommend reading this article by Rachel S Herz, assistant professor of psychology at Brown University, here.

The selection of comforting smells below have been particularly effective for me. What are your favourite comforting smells?

Comforting Smells - Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir EDP

Francis Kurkdjian’s oriental masterpiece is adored by many for its sensuality. I couldn’t agree more. For me, it’s a mellow sensuality that always conjures up chic cosiness whenever I wear it. Have amber and vanilla (with cistus labdanum, benzoin and tonka bean  in support) ever smelled this good? R2 705 for 50ml, https://www.skins.co.za.

Comforting Smells - Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir EDP

Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow

Whenever these shrubs bloom towards the end of August in Johannesburg, I am taken back to my less complicated childhood. We had one of these in our garden. According to Gardening Know How, it get its name from its flowers’ transformation from purple (yesterday), then pastel lavender (today), on to white (tomorrow). The berries and seeds are poisonous, which belies the flowers’ heady sweetness. Still, I am seriously thinking of having one of these bushes on our developing garden balcony.

Comforting Smells - Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow

Zenology Ambiance Spray Titio / Firewood

Although some people might find it more appropriate for winter, I find this room spray from the Dutch company Zenology so snuggle-able. Which makes its blend of smoked Darjeeling tea accord, woods and spices ideal year round for me. Gourmand-phobics, fear not. There’s nothing sweet nor heavy about it. R260 for 50ml, https://www.skins.co.za.

Comforting Smells - Zenology Ambiance Spray Titio / Firewood

Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil

Sometimes I just want a comforting floral smell that’s close to my skin – just for me and those allowed into my personal space. Even better if it’s in the form of a product that has healthy skin benefits. Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil is made from moisturising mango butter and regenerating Tamanu oil. It’s gently fragranced with notes that include bergamot, honey, ylang-ylang, rose, vanilla and musk. R380 for 5g, https://www.skins.co.za.

Comforting Smells - Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil

Dermalogica Sound Sleep Cocoon

I’ve been wanting to try this gel-cream product for some time, partly due to its relaxing name. As the skin regenerates best while we get a good night’s sleep, it features a mix of highly active ingredients renowned for their rejuvenating properties. These include Persian silk tree bark, Wu-Zhu-Yu fruit, Kakadu plum and tamarind seed extracts. All of these work together overnight to deliver impressive results in the morning. I love that it includes French lavender, sandalwood and patchouli aromatherapy essential oils to enhance sleep. R1 295 for 50ml.

Comforting Smells - Dermalogica Sound Sleep Cocoon

THE BUMPER CATCH-UP REVIEWS EDITION: Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT, Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT Intense, Cacharel Yes I Am EDP, Yardley English Blazer Azure EDP, Jimmy Choo Fever EDP, Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT, Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT, Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT Review

Fragrance Fatigue (noun): The exhaustion experienced by perfume-loving bloggers when confronted by the sheer volume of annual launches. 

I read somewhere recently that almost 2 500 fragrances are launched every year. That’s a lot of fragrances for even the most dedicated of perfume-loving bloggers to get (and smell) through. An impossible task, in fact. The number alone is enough to give me Fragrance Fatigue. So where am I going with this? I recently experienced an impending sense of MFF (Major Fragrance Fatigue) when I realised I had an awful lot of fragrance reviews to catch up on. The second half of the year sees new launches flooding the market, even though we only get a very edited selection in South Africa of what’s launched internationally.

So this post is a bumper catch-up edition, which fortunately saw me overcome my initial fear of Fragrance Fatigue. If I can say so myself, there’s an eclectic mix here.Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT Review

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT (Rodrigo Flores-Roux)

If the superb Diptyque Philosykos is way out of your price range, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT is a very worthwhile substitute. Yes, it’s that good. The 19th addition to the Green Tea range celebrates (this is such a happy fragrance, after all) the pleasures of the fig tree. “I imagined nibbling on juicy, nectar-filled figs while savouring a warm, fragrant cup of tea… all of it happening under the enveloping branches of a fig tree!” says perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux of his inspiration. It opens with an unmistakable and captivating note of fig leaves. This is not a “pure” fig scent, so there’s also Italian bergamot, cedrat, clementine and ivy leaves in the mix. The fig theme is carried through to the heart, with kadota fig mingling with green tea accord, violet leaf and pistachio tree resin. A truly delicious cure for Fragrance Fatigue! R445 for 100ml.

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT Review

Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT Intense (Aurélien Guichard and Fabrice Pellegrin)

When I reviewed Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT last year, I described it as a sombre fragrance – in a good way. The latest version has more of a herbal opening, with notes of rosemary and clary sage, but it’s still firmly in moody territory. The heart sticks to the marine script, with lashings of sea and sea salt notes. There’s also a strong smoky and woody vibe to this EDT. It’s not radically different from the original, but is well worth sniffing out if you’re in the market for a distinctive maritime scent. R1 040 for 50ml and R1 290 for 100ml.

Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT Intense

Cacharel Yes I Am EDP (Honorine Blanc and Christophe Reynaud)

Any discussion of this fragrance is going to start with its love-it-or-hate-it packaging. Object of desire or tacky sex toy? While the scent itself is not as divisive, its “spicy cremoso” will largely influence whether this fragrance with gourmand, floral and fruity characteristics is the one for you. Cacharel defines this innovation as “an eau de parfum based for the first time on the spicy creamy contrast of cream of cardamom”. The fragrance is mostly sweet, but not yuckily so, and more sophisticated than its youthful marketing suggests. R675 for 30ml, R990 for 50ml and R1 100 for 75ml.

Cacharel Yes I Am EDP Review

Yardley English Blazer Azure EDP

Who would have thought that a Yardley English Blazer fragrance could be so intriguing and darn frustrating to place? Listed notes include fresh ginger, nutmeg, amber, cashmeran, vetiver and musk. But there’s something else going on in this powerhouse EDP that I can’t figure out at all. I’m still not sure if this is a good or bad thing. Best you try it yourself and please let me know if you experience the same issue. R379.95 for 100ml.

Yardley English Blazer Azure EDP Review

Jimmy Choo Fever EDP (Nathalie Lorson and Honorine Blanc)

Gourmand meets floral in Jimmy Choo Fever, as in Night Fever. Jimmy Choo fragrances for women have always been on the sweet side of the scent spectrum and this one is no exception. It features a full-on gourmand gathering, courtesy of black plum nectar, lychee, roasted tonka bean, vanilla, hazelnut and coffee notes. Heliotrope, jasmine and vanilla orchid bring in the floral aspect, while notes of creamy sandalwood and benzoin up the sugar content. It’s a loud scent, guaranteed to last from dusk to dawn, and provides a whole new take on the subject of fragrance fatigue. R1 310 for 100ml.

Jimmy Choo Fever EDP Review

FISHING FOR COMPLIMENTS: Those scary creatures in the water are some mighty large koi. I shot this pic at a good friend’s home and wish to assure you that no animals were harmed in its production.

Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT (Philippe Romano)

The Dunhill Desire range was launched in the year 2 000. Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT (not to be confused with Dunhill Desire Blue EDT, although this flanker builds on it) is the seventh addition to the line. No prizes for guessing what it’s about. It has a fresh and invigorating citrus and mint opening that quickly segues into a salty interpretation of its maritime theme, with base notes of patchouli, vetiver and tonka bean rounding it off. It’s an outdoorsy scent that’s refreshingly un-sweet. R1 245 for 100ml.

Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT Review

Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT (Caroline Sabas)

The official inspiration for a fragrance can often make for hilarious and misleading reading. But in the case of Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT, the reality perfectly reflects the inspiration of a summer breeze, complete with wafting notes of lemon, apple, vert de mandarin, rose, osmanthus, jasmine, cedarwood, musks and amber. This is fresh, green, uplifting stuff which, like its namesake, comes and goes, so it requires regular re-applications. At this bargain price, I ain’t complaining. Super! R445 for 100ml.

Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT Review

Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT (Nathalie Lorson)

Following on from the successes of Jimmy Choo Man EDT, Jimmy Choo Man Intense EDT and Jimmy Choo Man Ice EDT, there’s Jimmy Choo Man Blue. This woody-aromatic-leathery EDT opens with a big hit of clary sage essence (I also pick up the bergamot and black pepper notes). The heart goes a little deeper with leather and cypress, while the base features sandalwood, vanilla and um, apparently, vetiver. (What’s it about these listed vetiver notes that are so difficult to smell?) Ostensibly aimed at rebelliously cool 20-somethings, its appeal should extend beyond that demographic due its versatility, wearability and easy-going elegance. R1 110 for 100ml.

Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT Review

 

 

You, Me And D&G Light Blue By The Sea

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Pour Homme EDT

Levels of work pressure and stress were particularly high recently. So when an ex-GF from many lifetimes ago invited me to join her at her apartment on the coast for five days, it was an offer I couldn’t refuse. I last had a getaway about a year ago with my father and sister (read here), so the need to escape was über urgent. Besides, it was the perfect excuse to bring along some fragrant friends, including Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT and Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Pour Homme EDT. Not to mention a whole slew of other fragrance finds for photographic purposes.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT

The destination? La Mercy on South Africa’s east coast in the province of KwaZulu-Natal (see map below). La Mercy is a pretty insignificant village, apart from its location near King Shaka International Airport. The economic hub of Durban is 35km away and it’s situated half between the increasingly built-up towns of Umhlanga and Ballito. This lack of an urban buzz suited me just fine.

The ride down on the Friday was uneventful – and long. Respect to my dear friend, who must be the most traffic-law abiding citizen in South Africa. She didn’t drive faster than the speed limit once, much to my impatience. We arrived at night, so my first view of the sea in years would have to wait till the morning. See below. But the sound of the Indian Ocean pounding away that night was therapeutic enough.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue (La Mercy)

The next day, before I could slip into lazy mode, I first had to fulfill my duties as my friend’s plus one at a wedding of her close friend from our clubbing days. The nuptials were a charmingly casual affair, complete with barefoot ceremony in a sandpit. While we both struggled with the “beachy” dress code (Sarongs? Swimwear? Shorts?), I had no hesitation choosing my wedding fragrance.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue (La Mercy)

BEACHY DRESS CODE: Looking for inspiration.

“While we both struggled with the “beachy” dress code, I had no hesitation choosing my wedding fragrance.”

Created by Carlos Benaïm, Frederic Malle Music For A While has been my most complimented fragrance for a long time. Can’t say I am surprised, as this EDP opens with a beautiful bouquet of lavender, supported by citrus and anise notes. There’s an assortment of sweet notes, including pineapple, sugar, caramel and fruit. Sounds overpowering, but the master perfumer keeps it light and airy. And the patchouli base tempers the effect.

Frederic Malle Music For A While

The next four days were just what I needed. Lots of horizontal time in bed, interspersed with walks down to the sea and along the beach. After all, the beach was less than 100 metres from entrance of the apartment complex. These strolls yielded soothing, salty breezes and time to clear the mind. August is a winter month in South Africa, with temperatures hovering below 20°C, so I was very content to have seemingly kilometres of beach mostly to myself.

Even in this relative solitude on the beach, I found many signs of humanity. The worst, of course, being plastic pollution. The best being this relic from a recent religious ceremony. I have always had a thing for religious iconography, so it brought a smile to my face. And while I was tempted to take it with me, my better judgement said leave as is.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue (La Mercy)

And what about my fragrant Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue friends?

I deliberately brought these with me, as both are justifiably considered modern summer fragrance classics. I got to experience them, though, in a completely different context, sans Mediterranean Sea, blistering heat and David Gandy.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT was created by top perfumer Olivier Cresp (read my interview with him here) and launched in 2001. It’s a great example of how to create a fruity floral with a fresh citrus twist, without assaulting its wearer and everyone else in its immediate vicinity with its presence. Stand-out notes in this EDT include Sicilian cedar, apple, bamboo, jasmine and musk. Fresh and sensual at the same time, little wonder it was inducted into The Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2016.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT

Its compagno, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Pour Homme EDT (launched in 2007), has a similar effect, but with a citrus aromatic profile. Which means splashes of bergamot, Sicilian mandarin, grapefruit and juniper in the opening. After that, I can pick up a strong sprinkling of Sichuan pepper, with hints of musk and incense towards the end. It’s an uncomplicated, uplifting scent and so easy to wear.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Pour Homme EDT

Bleu de Chanel Parfum Review

 

Bleu de Chanel Parfum

I’ve noticed there’s a growing trend for men’s fragrances to be given the parfum treatment. So it’s no surprise to see Bleu de Chanel Parfum being launched recently. It makes even more sense when you consider that Bleu de Chanel EDT and Bleu de Chanel EDP have been phenomenal successes for the French luxury brand.

Both of these versions of Bleu de Chanel (created by in-house perfumer Jacques Polge) are defined by their refined take on citrus and cedar notes, among others. While they have different emphases, they are not radically different fragrances. And so it is with Bleu de Chanel EDP, created by in-house perfumer Olivier Polge. It’s not a reinvention of this modern aromatic-woody classic, but it certainly offers a new dimension to it.

Bleu de Chanel - Olivier Polge

A STUDY IN BLUE: Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, at work in the laboratory. Image courtesy of Chanel.

SO WHAT DOES BLEU DE CHANEL PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

The opening of the fragrance pulls you in immediately, with addictive fresh notes of artemisia, bergamot, lemon zest and mint. It’s one of those openings you want again and again, so I have found myself doing more re-sprays than usual.

Bleu de Chanel Parfum According to Fragrantica, there’s a pineapple note at the heart of this fragrance. I don’t detect this fruity aspect at all, but I do pick up hints of lavender and geranium.

“It’s a grown-up, big boy treatment of sandalwood. Super-seductive stuff!”

However, it’s the base of sandalwood (sustainably sourced from New Caledonia, we are told) that really sets this fragrance apart from its predecessors. It’s a grown-up, big boy treatment of sandalwood. Super-seductive stuff! Cedar is also present in the dry-down, which further enhances the woody character of this fragrance.

Bleu de Chanel Parfum

The Fragroom verdict? Bleu de Chanel Parfum is supremely smooth and elegant, with the creamy sandalwood sealing the deal. It will be another huge seller for Chanel. And justifiably so. Like all of the Bleu de Chanel iterations, it nails versatility, wearability and elegance.

Bleu de Chanel Parfum, R1 655 for 50ml and R2 325 for 100ml.

Bleu de Chanel Parfum

Bumper Mid-Year Fragrance Edition: Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Absolu EDP, Mugler Alien Flora Futura EDT, Alaia EDP Nude, Bentley Momentum EDT, Lanvin Modern Princess EDP And More Reviews

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Absolu EDP Fragrance Review

I clearly have been in a hoarding/procrastinating mood for the last few months. I have accumulated a number of fragrance reviews. It’s July 2018 already, so best I get going. There’s quite a mix of fragrance reviews here, if I can say so myself, from teen surfer scent to way-out floral . Where known, I have provided the name of the perfumer in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

“Acqua di Gio has been a huge success for Armani, so there’s much expectation (and consternation) when a new flanker is launched.”

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Absolu EDP (Alberto Morillas)

Acqua di Gio has been a huge success for Armani, so there’s much expectation (and consternation) when a new flanker is launched. First of all let’s get the obvious out of the way. This is still a fresh-ish aquatic-style fragrance, but this time it’s all about the interplay of water and wood. There’s also a fruity vibe upfront. Patchouli is also a major element of the fragrance (apparently it was exclusively and ethically sourced from Guatemala). This patchouli note balances the aquatic and woody nature of this EDT with a sensual aspect. So what does this all mean? Acqua di Gio Absolu may not be an immediate winner like its predecessors, but its refined elegance makes it well worth sniffing out.  R990 for 40ml, R1 420 for 75ml and R1 810 for 125ml.

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Absolu EDP Fragrance Review

Mugler Alien Flora Futura EDT (Dominique Ropion and Jean-Christophe Hérault)

Those Alien flankers keep on coming and somehow manage to offer something different and worthwhile each time. Mugler Alien Futura is a fresher and subtler (for Mugler) take on the exotic theme. There’s citrus-y Buddha’s hand in the opening and night-blooming cereus (a cactus flower that blooms once a year at night) for a full-blown heart of intrigue. Irresistible, in that typically Mugler way. R755 for 30ml and R995 for 60ml.

Mugler Alien Flora Futura EDT Fragrance Review

Lanvin Modern Princess EDP (Christophe Raynaud)

From the opening pink lady apple and redcurrant notes, through to the heart notes of freesia and jasmine notes, this Modern Princess sure is sweet. Ok, so too sweet for my liking, but then I am definitely not this EDT’s target market of younger women. If you like your fruity florals young, juicy ‘n sweet, come and get it. R595 for 30ml, R795 for 60ml and R995 for 90ml.

Lanvin Modern Princess EDP Fragrance Review

Alaia EDP Nude (Marie Salamagne)

This oriental floral is the fourth fragrance from Alaia and so far I like what I am smelling. It has become my latest favourite bedtime scent. Not because of its name. But because it’s so comfortable, smooth and subtle. Cedar, cashmeran, orange blossom, tonka bean, musk and leather have been given the creamy ‘n dreamy treatment. R880 for 30ml, R1 320 for 50ml and R1 910 for 100ml.

Alaia EDP Nude Fragrance Review

Hollister Free Wave For Him EDT (Gino Percontino)

Hollister fragrances are all about the Californian lifestyle of sun, sea and surfing. This EDT has an intriguing list of notes, including lime caviar, ginger, pink pepper, silver algae, white iris, oakmoss, driftwood, salted amber and smooth amberwood. While I can’t pick up most of these notes (and I have worn this one several times), I do get a fresh and youthful aquatic vibe, with a tinge of salt. It’s a good choice for your younger brother, who’s just starting his fragrance adventures. R725 for 100ml.

Hollister Free Wave For Him EDT Fragrance Review

Bentley Momentum EDT (Nathalie Lorson)

Regular readers of my blog will know that I am a fan of Bentley fragrances. They offer surprisingly affordable quality and are made by top perfumers such as Nathalie Lorson. A woody aromatic, this EDT has a bit of an old-school fresh vibe opening (that’s not a bad thing), with bergamot, green violet and clary sage top notes. By the time, the base notes (sandalwood, tonka bean, moss and musks) kick in, it has evolved into something altogether more sensual. R1 245 for 100ml. 

Bentley Momentum EDT Fragrance Review

Mademoiselle Rochas EDT (Nathalie Gracia-Cetto, Sonia Constant, Shyamala Maisondieu, Nadege le Garlantezec)

There’s no stopping the fruity-florals trend. This EDT is a youthful and fresh take on the theme, with notes of blackcurrant, rose, jasmine, honeysuckle, lily-of-the-valley, plum and a musk drydown featuring prominently. Thankfully, it avoids the sugar overload of the genre. R710 for 30ml, R910 for 50ml and R1 110 for 90ml.

Mademoiselle Rochas EDT Fragrance Review

Yardley Bond St No 8 EDP Pour Homme

What Yardley Bond St fragrances lack in originality, they compensate with their budget-friendliness. The latest in the range is a straight-up masculine scent, with notes of pear, bergamot, mandarin, lavender, orange blossom, incense and amberwood creating a perfectly pleasant fruity, woody and spicy package. Longevity is not the best, but at the price, spray, spray away. R399.95 for 100ml.

Yardley Bond St No 8 EDP Pour Homme Fragrance Review

Arbour Café Rendezvous, With A Side Order Of Terre d’Hermes Parfum

Terre d'Hermes Parfum @ Arbour Cafe

I was recently invited to eat a meal at Arbour Café, a French-style cafe in Birdhaven, a wealthy Johannesburg suburb. I am usually weary of French-inspired restaurants, as all too often they lapse into tweeness and clichés. Non, merci beaucoup! However, in the name of open-mindedness, I put my misgivings aside and accepted the kind invitation. And besides I needed an outing to wear my Terre d’Hermes Parfum.

Terre d'Hermes Parfum @ Arbour Cafe

I arrived for my Arbour Café rendezvous for an early-ish brunch. While the street-facing side of the restaurant has its attractions, I chose to eat in the courtyard for a bit of air, sun and people-watching.

Terre d'Hermes Parfum @ Arbour Cafe

Arbour Café specialises in galettes (savoury French buckwheat pancakes) and crêpes (thinner pancakes usually served with sweeter fillings). There are plenty of other options on the menu for breakfast, dinner and lunch, including omelettes, salads, sandwiches and desserts.

Terre d'Hermes Parfum @ Arbour Cafe

TRES BIEN: Galette with Smoked Norwegian Salmon, Capers, Cucumber, Dill Crème Fraîche and an Egg.

For my main meal, I chose the Galette with Smoked Norwegian Salmon, Capers, Cucumber, Dill Crème Fraîche and an Egg. Très bien! And the Decadent Nutella and Banana crêpes for dessert. C’est délicieux! Both were served by friendly and attentive staff in an amiable and comfortable environment that’s thankfully not precious at all.

Terre d'Hermes Parfum @ Arbour Cafe.

C’EST DELICIEUX: Decadent Nutella and Banana crêpes.

ALSO ON LE MENU: TERRE D’HERMES PARFUM

And what of my fragrance companion, Terre d’Hermes Parfum? A perfect choice, if I may so myself. Whenever I wear this fragrance I ask myself (rhetorically), “Has bitter orange ever opened a fragrance so magnificently?”

Terre d'Hermes @ Arbour Cafe

Yet there’s so more to Terre d’Hermes Parfum than its trademark citrus introduction. Its flint note adds an unusual and earthy mineral aspect, which evolves into an almost burnt treatment of oakmoss, woody and benzoin notes. Not for nothing is Terre d’Hermes Parfum regarded as one of perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena’s masterpieces.

While I was finishing my very pleasant meal in Arbour Café’s relaxing courtyard, a fellow diner walked by and swooned: “Oh! That must be Terre d’Hermes. I would recognize it anywhere.”

Arbour Café, corner Wrenrose Avenue and St Andrews Street, Birdhaven, Johannesburg. Tel: 011 788 4111.  Email: info@arbourcafe.co.za. http://arbourcafe.co.za/

Terre d'Hermes Parfum @ Arbour Cafe

 

From Cartier Declaration EDT To Cartier Declaration Parfum: 20 Years Of A Modern Classic

Cartier Declaration Parfum And Cartier Declaration EDT

The fragrance industry is pretty shameless when it comes to hype and hubris. Although I try not to indulge in the worst of it, sometimes I am guilty of it, too. But with the recent release of Cartier Declaration Parfum, I can say with absolute certainty that Cartier Declaration EDT is a true modern classic. A classic in the sense that it added something very distinctive and special to perfumery at the time of its launch and that its influence is still felt to this day.

Cartier Declaration EDT And Cartier Declaration Parfum

Created by Jean-Claude Ellena, Cartier Declaration EDT was launched in 1998. With its fresh, spicy, citrus, woody and aromatic layers, this fragrance defies easy classification. And that’s part of its complex beauty. It’s a supremely sophisticated scent that achieves that rare feat of smelling expensive without resorting to bling tricks. Although officially a men’s fragrance, it’s one to be worn and enjoyed by women too.

Cartier Declaration EDT And Cartier Declaration Parfum

Since 1998, several flankers have been added to the Cartier Declaration range. Created by in-house perfumer Mathilde Laurent, Cartier Declaration Parfum has been launched to celebrate the 20th anniversary of this classic fragrance.

“It’s a supremely sophisticated scent that achieves that rare feat of smelling expensive without resorting to bling tricks.”

SO WHAT DOES CARTIER DECLARATION PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

On first application, but only very briefly, I get the freshness (bitter orange note) of the original Cartier Declaration. And then there are powerful and seductive hits of leather and spice (cardamom, cumin notes). The base features standout notes of wood (cedar, amberwood) and vetiver. If this all sounds terrifically deep and smoky, that’s because it is.

Cartier Declaration EDT and Cartier Declaration Parfum

LEATHER REPORT: If I am going to do some product placement on my blog, then it better be something super. I took these pics of Cartier Declaration Parfum in the studio of the very talented leather craftsman Matthias Matthee. This work in progress is a customised backpack made from vintage black leather and with blanket stitching. Check him out on Instagram.

If I had to compare the two, I would say that the original has more of a sparkling quality, whereas Cartier Declaration Parfum goes into darker and denser territory. Cartier Declaration Parfum is a fitting tribute to the original, while still standing on its own merits.

Cartier Declaration Parfum, R1 230 for 50ml and R1 785 for 100ml.

Fragrance Shopping Irritations

Fragrance Shopping Irritations

I have very basic expectations of fragrance shopping. FRAGRANCE SHOPPING = BROWSING + DISCOVERY + JOY. Mostly, I get to experience this simple equation. However, there are certain situations that are guaranteed to rile me. Here are four of my top fragrance shopping irritations.

“I have very basic expectations of fragrance shopping. FRAGRANCE SHOPPING = BROWSING + DISCOVERY + JOY.”

What are your fragrance shopping irritations?

So many choices, but no testers to be seen, let alone smelt

A key part of the fragrance shopping journey is trying out new possibilities. This becomes impossible when there are no testers. A well-known (and struggling) clothing retailer in my local shopping centre has several walls’ worth of fragrances, but not a single tester. This has been the situation since the beginning of the year, when most of the testers were emptied in the Christmas shopping rush. Grrrrr!

Fragrance Shopping Irritations

A TESTING SITUATION: A good supply of testers is essential.

Being watched like I am a shoplifter

I know shoplifting is rife in South Africa, but there’s a fine line between discrete surveillance and downright stalking. I do a lot of my fragrance browsing before or after gym. Apart from a good fragrance, I’m very dress down for gym, which could explain some of the unwanted attention I receive. However, one of the basic tenets of making a sale is don’t judge a customer by what they wear.

Fragrance Shopping Irritations

SHOPLIFTER, MOI? This is as dressed up as I get when I am in gym-gear browsing mode.

Attention!

Between the extremes of too much, overly eager, intrusive attention and (I must be wearing my Harry Potter invisible cloak) non-existent attention lies a happy medium of knowing how to read your customer. While a fair amount of customer service can be taught, some things are intuitive.

Fragrance Shopping Irritations

Not knowing your merchandise

I don’t expect sales assistants to know if and when a particular fragrance has been reformulated (unless if I am being VERY demanding due to low sugar levels). But not knowing the basics of the product they are selling (for example, family, accords and brief brand history) is one of the big fragrance shopping irritations for me. Sharing your knowledge of and passion for the world of fragrance is sure to impress me.

Fragrance Shopping Irritations

John Varvatos Artisan Pure EDT, Elie Saab In White EDP, Coach Floral EDP, Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pure Nectar de Parfum, Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! Capsule Collection EDT Reviews

John Varvatos Artisan Pure EDT

After an initially slow start to the year, the fragrance counters are starting to get busy with all sorts of new  arrivals. We’ve got a pretty mixed bag here, with John Varvatos Artisan Pure, Elie Saab In White, Coach Floral EDP reviews. Are they worth getting out of bed for?

John Varvatos Artisan Pure EDT (Nose: Rodrigo Flores-Roux)

I am a big fan of Flores-Roux’s work for John Varvatos fragrances. There’s always an impressively long list of notes for John Varvatos fragrances and Artisan Pure is no different. Inspired by the lush Xalapa region of Mexico, it opens with a big punch of sunny citrus notes. Then there’s a herbal heart (with a standout Italian orris note) and woody base. It’s deliciously crisp summer freshness in a beautifully designed bottle. R1 225 for 75ml and R1 495 for 125ml.

John Varvatos Artisan Pure EDT

Coach Floral EDP (Noses: Shyamala Maisondieu, Nadège le Garlantezec and Nathalie Gracia-Cetto)

Pretty bottle. Pretty fragrance. While Coach Floral EDP isn’t going to be getting any awards for originality, it’s a very accessible and pleasant fragrance. Heart notes include tea rose, jasmine sambac and gardenia. R795 for 30ml, R1 190 for 50ml and R1 490 for 90ml.

Coach Floral EDP

Elie Saab In White EDP (Nose: Jerôme Di Marino)

I ain’t no blushing bride, but that doesn’t stop me from liking this wedding-inspired fruity-floral-chypre fragrance. It has a lovely creamy quality throughout, with notes that include mandarin essence, blackcurrant bud, jasmine sambac, orange blossom absolute, vanilla and ylang-ylang. R890 for 30ml, R1 410 for 50ml and R1 900 for 90ml.

Elie Saab In White EDP

Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! Capsule Collection EDT Pour Lui (Noses: Nathalie Lorson and Aurelien Guichard)

Okay, so strictly speaking this is not a new fragrance (Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! was originally launched in 2016). But this limited-edition collaboration with NYC tattoo artist Virginia Elwood is a good reminder why Zadig & Voltaire fragrances are worth sniffing out. Featuring notes of incense, vanilla, pepper and sandalwood, it’s an easy-going and very appealing take on the smoky, woody theme. R475 for 20ml and R1 085 for 100ml.

Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! Capsule Collection EDT Pour Lui

Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pure Nectar de Parfum (Noses: Dominique Ropion and Fanny Bal)

Previous fragrances in the L’Eau d’Issey Pure range have interpreted a drop of dew (L’Eau d’Issey Pure EDP) and delicate petals (L’Eau d’Issey Pure EDT). The latest, Nectar de Parfum, is more floral in character. It ventures into sweet territory, with initial stand-out notes of pear, honey and rose. Hallelujah, it’s not the cloying variety and the aquatic element will be very familiar to Issey Miyake fragrance fans. R925 for 30ml, R1 430 for 50ml and R1 820 for 90ml.

Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pure Nectar de Parfum