Category: FRAGRANCE REVIEWS

Fragrance Fatigue (noun): The exhaustion experienced by perfume-loving bloggers when confronted by the sheer volume of annual launches. 

I read somewhere recently that almost 2 500 fragrances are launched every year. That’s a lot of fragrances for even the most dedicated of perfume-loving bloggers to get (and smell) through. An impossible task, in fact. The number alone is enough to give me Fragrance Fatigue. So where am I going with this? I recently experienced an impending sense of MFF (Major Fragrance Fatigue) when I realised I had an awful lot of fragrance reviews to catch up on. The second half of the year sees new launches flooding the market, even though we only get a very edited selection in South Africa of what’s launched internationally.

So this post is a bumper catch-up edition, which fortunately saw me overcome my initial fear of Fragrance Fatigue. If I can say so myself, there’s an eclectic mix here.

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT (Rodrigo Flores-Roux)

If the superb Diptyque Philosykos is way out of your price range, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT is a very worthwhile substitute. Yes, it’s that good. The 19th addition to the Green Tea range celebrates (this is such a happy fragrance, after all) the pleasures of the fig tree. “I imagined nibbling on juicy, nectar-filled figs while savouring a warm, fragrant cup of tea… all of it happening under the enveloping branches of a fig tree!” says perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux of his inspiration. It opens with an unmistakable and captivating note of fig leaves. This is not a “pure” fig scent, so there’s also Italian bergamot, cedrat, clementine and ivy leaves in the mix. The fig theme is carried through to the heart, with kadota fig mingling with green tea accord, violet leaf and pistachio tree resin. A truly delicious cure for Fragrance Fatigue! R445 for 100ml.

Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT Intense (Aurélien Guichard and Fabrice Pellegrin)

When I reviewed Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT last year, I described it as a sombre fragrance – in a good way. The latest version has more of a herbal opening, with notes of rosemary and clary sage, but it’s still firmly in moody territory. The heart sticks to the marine script, with lashings of sea and sea salt notes. There’s also a strong smoky and woody vibe to this EDT. It’s not radically different from the original, but is well worth sniffing out if you’re in the market for a distinctive maritime scent. R1 040 for 50ml and R1 290 for 100ml.

Cacharel Yes I Am EDP (Honorine Blanc and Christophe Reynaud)

Any discussion of this fragrance is going to start with its love-it-or-hate-it packaging. Object of desire or tacky sex toy? While the scent itself is not as divisive, its “spicy cremoso” will largely influence whether this fragrance with gourmand, floral and fruity characteristics is the one for you. Cacharel defines this innovation as “an eau de parfum based for the first time on the spicy creamy contrast of cream of cardamom”. The fragrance is mostly sweet, but not yuckily so, and more sophisticated than its youthful marketing suggests. R675 for 30ml, R990 for 50ml and R1 100 for 75ml.

Yardley English Blazer Azure EDP

Who would have thought that a Yardley English Blazer fragrance could be so intriguing and darn frustrating to place? Listed notes include fresh ginger, nutmeg, amber, cashmeran, vetiver and musk. But there’s something else going on in this powerhouse EDP that I can’t figure out at all. I’m still not sure if this is a good or bad thing. Best you try it yourself and please let me know if you experience the same issue. R379.95 for 100ml.

Jimmy Choo Fever EDP (Nathalie Lorson and Honorine Blanc)

Gourmand meets floral in Jimmy Choo Fever, as in Night Fever. Jimmy Choo fragrances for women have always been on the sweet side of the scent spectrum and this one is no exception. It features a full-on gourmand gathering, courtesy of black plum nectar, lychee, roasted tonka bean, vanilla, hazelnut and coffee notes. Heliotrope, jasmine and vanilla orchid bring in the floral aspect, while notes of creamy sandalwood and benzoin up the sugar content. It’s a loud scent, guaranteed to last from dusk to dawn, and provides a whole new take on the subject of fragrance fatigue. R1 310 for 100ml.

Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT (Philippe Romano)

The Dunhill Desire range was launched in the year 2 000. Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT (not to be confused with Dunhill Desire Blue EDT, although this flanker builds on it) is the seventh addition to the line. No prizes for guessing what it’s about. It has a fresh and invigorating citrus and mint opening that quickly segues into a salty interpretation of its maritime theme, with base notes of patchouli, vetiver and tonka bean rounding it off. It’s an outdoorsy scent that’s refreshingly un-sweet. R1 245 for 100ml.

Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT (Caroline Sabas)

The official inspiration for a fragrance can often make for hilarious and misleading reading. But in the case of Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT, the reality perfectly reflects the inspiration of a summer breeze, complete with wafting notes of lemon, apple, vert de mandarin, rose, osmanthus, jasmine, cedarwood, musks and amber. This is fresh, green, uplifting stuff which, like its namesake, comes and goes, so it requires regular re-applications. At this bargain price, I ain’t complaining. Super! R445 for 100ml.

Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT (Nathalie Lorson)

Following on from the successes of Jimmy Choo Man EDT, Jimmy Choo Man Intense EDT and Jimmy Choo Man Ice EDT, there’s Jimmy Choo Man Blue. This woody-aromatic-leathery EDT opens with a big hit of clary sage essence (I also pick up the bergamot and black pepper notes). The heart goes a little deeper with leather and cypress, while the base features sandalwood, vanilla and um, apparently, vetiver. (What’s it about these listed vetiver notes that are so difficult to smell?) Ostensibly aimed at rebelliously cool 20-somethings, its appeal should extend beyond that demographic due its versatility, wearability and easy-going elegance. R1 110 for 100ml.