Category: FRAGRANCE REVIEWS

Posted on

Montblanc Explorer EDP Review

Montblanc Explorer EDP Review

Five months into 2019 and the first BIG designer fragrance launch of the year is here. I am talking about the release of Montblanc Explorer EDP, the new fragrance pillar from the German luxury goods company.

I’ve been seeing many IG posts on this fragrance and recently attended a very lavish and exclusive launch event, which just affirmed how much money the brand is putting into this launch. I’m not one for predictions, but I reckon it’s a safe bet that Montblanc Explorer is set to be one of the fragrance money-spinners of 2019.

Montblanc Explorer EDP Review

PERFUMERS

A trio of top perfumers collaborated on this perfume: Antoine Maisondieu (Montblanc Legend Night EDP, Comme des Garçons Black EDT, Gucci Rush For Men EDT), Olivier Pescheux (Diptyque Tempo EDP, Paco Rabanne 1 Million EDT, Versace Eros Flame EDP) and Jórdi Fernandez (24 Gold EDT, Carner Barcelona Latin Lover EDP, Ex Nihilo Brompton Immortals EDP).

“All of these noses come with serious niche and designer fragrance credentials, and have a strong sense of commercial appeal.”

All of these noses come with serious niche and designer fragrance credentials, and have a strong sense of commercial appeal. They were specifically chosen for this project due to their expertise in the three key notes of Montblanc Explorer: Calabrian bergamot (Maisondieu), Haitian vetiver (Pescheux) and Indonesian patchouli (Fernandez).

Montblanc Explorer Review - Jordi Fernandez

PATCHOULI EXPERTISE: Jórdi Fernandez is one of the co-creators of Montblanc Explorer EDP.

PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS

This smooth woody-aromatic-leather fragrance works well from start to finish. The Calabrian bergamot note sets the scene with its fresh, sunny and uplifting character. Notes of clary sage and pink pepper add aromatic interest.

Montblanc Explorer Review - Bergamot

CITRUS EFFECT: Calabrian bergamot is one of the key ingredients of Montblanc Explorer EDP. Image: Givaudan.

The Haitian vetiver brings the unmistakeable qualities of earth, grass and smoke. This is supported by a hint of leather. The earthy character is emphasised by a double dose of warming patchouli and ambery ambroxan.

Montblanc Explorer EDP is highly versatile and can be worn to the gym, the office, a nightclub or on a date night. It’s also not season-specific. Just another reason why Montblanc Explorer will be a huge success.

Montblanc Explorer Review - Vetiver

EARTHY: Haitian vetiver is at the heart of Montblanc Explorer EDP. Image: Givaudan.

PACKAGING 

A lot of thought and craftsmanship has gone into the design of the bottle with its leatherish sheath. The solid and substantial spherical bottle was designed by well-known South African fashion designer-turned-industrial designer Mark Eisen, who also designed the award-winning Dunhill Icon bottle.

Montblanc Explorer Review

VERDICT

It’s elegant and masculine stuff with good performance and sillage. If compliments are important to you when you wear a fragrance, look no further. I wouldn’t say Montblanc Explorer is particularly adventurous or innovative, but it is very well crafted and easy on the nose. Expect to smell it a lot this year and no doubt there will be a rollout of flankers over the next few years. Although officially aimed at men with a sense of adventure (which sounds like an awful lot of fragrances), this is a genuine crowd-pleaser and will appeal to a large demographic.

Montblanc Explorer Review

 

Posted on

Guerlain Shalimar EDP – Fragrance Of The Month

Guerlain Shalimar

Guerlain Shalimar EDP
Launched

Guerlain Shalimar EDP was launched in 1925.

Perfumer

Jacques Guerlain (Guerlain Mitsouko, Guerlain L’Heure Bleue, Guerlain Vol de Nuit, Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur).

Guerlain Shalimar - Jacques Guerlain

PERFUME GENIUS: Jacques Guerlain in the laboratory. Image: Wikipedia.com.

Notes (according to fragrantica.com)

Citrus notes, lemon, bergamot, jasmine, may rose, opoponax. tonka bean, vanilla, iris, Peru balsam, grey amber.

About the brand

Guerlain is one of the iconic houses of French perfumery and is revered for its numerous classics. These include: Jicky (1889), L’Heure Bleue (1912), Mitsouko (1919), Habit Rouge (1965), Samsara (1989) and Vetiver (2000). Perfumer Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain founded the company in 1828 in Paris. The company was owned by successive generations of the Guerlain family until French luxury giant LVMH bought it in 1994. Thierry Wasser has been Guerlain’s in-house perfumer since 2008.

Guerlain Shalimar - Thierry Wasser

KEEPING IT IN HOUSE: Thierry Wasser is Guerlain’s current perfumer. Image: Guerlain.com.

Impressions

How to review a perfume that’s considered one of the greats of the 20th century? With much trepidation, it seems. I was very hesitant to review it. After all, what could I add to the many expert reviews that has not been said already? Needless to say, this fragrance is too important not to have an opinion about it…

Guerlain Shalimar EDP

Inspired by the love between Indian Emperor Shah Jahan and Princess Mumtaz Mahal, Shalimar (Sanskrit for “temple of love”), is widely considered to be the first oriental fragrance, according to the brand’s website

“Throughout, it’s a warm and intimate scent, which is most prevalent in the drydown.”

When I apply this fragrance I always first get a thoroughly seductive swirl of citrus notes. It’s a brief hint of freshness, for sure, but not the usual sharpness of citrus notes. It’s more powdery than anything else. That could be due to the simultaneous progression of Shalimar in a floral direction, thanks to the notes of iris, jasmine and rose. Throughout, it’s a warm and intimate scent, which is most prevalent in the drydown. Here, notes of vanilla, tonka bean, sandalwood and opoponax are introduced, with incense playing a major role. This smoky quality is one of the defining characterisics of Shalimar, but it’s a delicate treatment to entice the wearer.

Guerlain Shalimar

I could use any number of adjectives to describe Guerlain Shalimar – sensual, enveloping, intoxicating, etc. None of which would do justice to it. The one that seems the best to me is “romantic”, in the best sense of the word.

Verdict

A true and complex classic that’s a Fragrance Of The Century, rather than a Fragrance Of The Month. Little wonder it has spawned numerous flankers over the last decade, the most recent being Shalimar Soufflé de Parfum 2018.

Guerlain Shalimar EDP

To buy in South Africa

From R1 855 (50ml) to R2 450 (90ml), Edgars Sandton, Edgars V&A and Hero Extravagance (Brooklyn Mall).

For more info

https://www.guerlain.com/int/en-int/fragrance/womens-fragrances/shalimar/shalimar-eau-de-parfum-spray

Sources

Fragrantica.com, Wikipedia.com, Guerlain.com

Guerlain Shalimar EDP

Posted on

Atelier Cologne Pomélo Paradis Cologne Absolue – Fragrance Of The Month

Atelier Cologne Pomélo Paradis - Fragrance Of The Month

Atelier Cologne Pomélo Paradis Cologne Absolue
Launched

2015

Perfumer

Ralf Schwieger (Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine, Etat Libre d’Orange The Afternoon of a Faun EDP, Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose EDP, Hermès Eau de Merveiilles EDT, Mugler Womanity EDP).

Atelier Cologne Pomélo Paradis - Fragrance Of The Month

Notes (according to www.skins.co.za)

Top notes: pink pomelo from Florida, mandarin from Calabria, blackcurrant bud from Burgundy. Heart notes: Moroccan orange blossom, Bulgarian rose essence, mint from China. Base notes: vetiver from Haiti, iris from Tuscany, amber (main notes in italics).

About the brand

Founded by Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervasel in 2009, the Parisian niche fragrance brand takes its inspiration from the citrus profile of the classic eau de cologne. According to the duo, they launched a new olfactive family, Cologne Absolue, that blends citruses with “the most precious natural raw materials”.

Atelier Cologne Pomélo Paradis - Fragrance Of The Month

CLASSIC INSPIRATION: Sylvie Ganter is the co-founder of Atelier Cologne.

Impressions

Pomelo notes can be harsh and off-putting. Not this one. It’s sunny and full of blissful life. The addictive kind you want to experience again and again. As the fragrance develops, the second main note, mandarin, starts coming through. Smooth and super-realistic, it maintains the invigorating vibe going with aplomb. As a vetiver-lover, I was very keen to experience the other key-note, hopefully, in a big way. But it’s more of a subtle, grassy hint in Atelier de Cologne Pomelo Paradis. However, that’s a quibble in the scheme of things.

“It’s sunny and full of blissful life. The addictive kind you want to experience again and again.”

Atelier Cologne Pomélo Paradis - Fragrance Of The Month

Verdict

It’s only when I did some more research that I discovered that this fragrance comes from the brand’s Joie de Vivre collection. That’s exactly what Atelier Cologne Pomélo Paradis does so well. If you believe a perfume can have uplifting, mood-enhancing qualities, this one is definitely for you.

What others say

“Delightful and probably the best thing in this genre since Guerlain Pamplelune).” – Luca Turin, Perfumes: The Guide 2018

Atelier Cologne Pomélo Paradis - Fragrance Of The Month

To buy

From R1 055 – R2 640

https://www.skins.co.za/cologne-absolue-pomelo-paradis-10211.html

For more info

https://www.ateliercologne.com/

 

Posted on

Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg – Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection

Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection - Louis Vuitton Johannesburg

For one of the major players in the luxury goods industry, Louis Vuitton’s fragrance releases have not been part of the churn-‘em-out philosophy so prevalent in the designer fragrance category. The company launched its first fragrances in the 1920s and 1940s and then not much else. That’s why the launch of the Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection in 2016 was such a big deal.

Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection - Louis Vuitton Johannesburg

In a way, the brand had a lot of catching up to do, when compared to its contemporaries. But as a luxury brand that places a premium on attention to detail and craftsmanship, it could not appear like it was in a hurry to do so.

The Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection was launched with seven EDPs for women. These included: Apogée, Contre Moi, Dans la Peau, Matière Noire, Mille Feux, Rose des Vents and Turbulences. Since then the following EDPs have been added to the range: Au Hasard, L’Immensité, Nouveau Monde, Orage and Sur la Route (all for men); Attrape-Rivesand Le Jour Se Lève (for women); and Ombre Nomade (for men and women).

Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg - Au Hasard

All of these fragrances are created by Louis Vuitton’s in house perfumer, the legendary Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud. He has created Pasha de Cartier EDT, Issey Miyake l’eau d’Issey EDT, Jean Paul Gaultier Classique EDT, Van Cleef & Arpels Zanzibar EDT, among others.

Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection - Drawers of Detail - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

IT’S ALL ABOUT SERVICE AND THE EXPERIENCE

When I first stepped into the Louis Vuitton store in Sandton City, Johannesburg, I was immediately impressed by the professionalism of the staff. Although I didn’t look I was there to shop, shop, shop, they all treated me with respect and attention.

Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection - Marco Matthews - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

AT MY SERVICE: Fragrance manager Marco Matthews writing down all of the names of the Louis Vuitton fragrances on the blotting cards.

I was particularly impressed by the service I received from fragrance manager, Marco Matthews. He gave me over half an hour of his precious time to talk me through the various fragrances in the collection. A personalised consultation is standard for all shoppers.

“Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection are not just fragrances – they are a luxury experience.”

It was abundantly clear from what he told me that Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection are not just fragrances – they are a luxury experience. And I certainly felt that while trying the various scents on offer.

Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection - Samples - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

BAG OF SAMPLE TRICKS: I was given a set of samples from Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection to try at home.

I enjoyed all the fragrances I tried. For a brand that is often associated with conspicuous consumption and logo-a-go-go, the fragrances are notable for their discreet elegance. Also look out for the travel cases and sets.

Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection - Orage EDP Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

My favourite would have to be Orage EDP. It opens with citrus notes of bergamot and grapefruit. But it’s the play between the iris, vetiver, white musk, hedione and ISO E Super that make it really intriguing.

Louis Vuitton, Sandton City Shopping Centre, Shop U26, Upper Level, Rivonia Road, Johannesburg. Tel: 011 784 9854.

Posted on

Cheap Thrills: 8 Best Budget Fragrance Buys

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Giorgio Beverly Hills EDP

So you’ve spent more than you should have at Christmas. Or you are scaling back on your expenses and something has to give. But dealing with these financial realities doesn’t mean you have to compromise on smelling good. With this selection of best budget buys fragrances, for example, it’s possible to spend way less than you would normally do and still stand out for your fragrance finesse.

“With this list of best budget buys fragrances, it’s possible to spend way less than you would normally do and still stand out for your fragrance finesse.”

Of course, you can also keep your eyes on bargain bins, where sometimes incredible deals are to be had. And don’t forget sales where 20-50% discounts are not uncommon.

NO 4711 Original EDC

This bargain fragrance is apparently still made according to a secret recipe from the late 18th century (yes, it’s been around that long). While 4711 Original Eau de Cologne lacks staying power, it more than compensates with its uplifting mix of lemon, bergamot and orange oil. More than a fragrance, it’s a superb pick-me-up tonic. R235 for 90ml and R575 for 200ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - No 4711 Eau de Cologne

The Body Shop Activist EDt

This one has been around for over 23 years – and for good reason. A light oriental with a clean, fresh vibe, it features standout notes of green grass, citruses, amber, spices and woody notes. It doesn’t have the most impressive staying power and projection, but at the price, a couple of re-sprays is not a problem at all. While you’re in The Body Shop mode, look out for White Musk. It’s a highly rate Body Shop classic that features notes of lavender, jasmine, geranium, sandalwood, vetiver, tonka bean and, course, musk. R320 for 100ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - The Body Shop Activist EDT

Giorgio Beverly Hills edt (ML Quince, Francis Camail, Harrry Cuttle)

I’ve never been shopping on Hollywood’s Rodeo Drive in a Rolls-Royce with the top down, but this classic from the 80s would be the perfect choice for it. It’s such a happy, carefree, almost hedonistic scent. This floral features standout heart notes such as tuberose, gardenia, orchid and ylang-ylang. After all that spending, champagne is so necessary. R599 for 90ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Giorgio Beverly Hills EDP

RODEO DRIVE, HERE WE COME: Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT is one of the best budget fragrance buys from the 80s.

Rogue Love by Rihanna EDP

Rihanna has amassed quite a respectable fragrance portfolio and word is that she’s more involved in the creation of her scents than the average celeb. Her fragrances, while not in any way revolutionary, certainly deserve consideration if you’re on the hunt for budget fragrance buys. Rogue Love is a very appealing scent with fruity, floral, musky overtones. It features big hits of plum, suede, patchouli and vanilla notes. Like most celebrity fragrances, it’s sweet, but it’s handled smoothly and sophisticatedly in this EDP. R620 for 125ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Rogue by Rihanna EDP

Zara Tobacco Collection Rich Warm Addictive EDT

A seemingly simple composition of tobacco, coconut, sandalwood, honey and cedar notes, it yields so much more than its structure suggests. It’s on the sweeter side of things, but who cares when this EDT is so smooth and creamy. Zara has numerous examples of cool cheapies like it, so it would be time well spent to visit your local store or the website for more options.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Zara Tobacco Collection Rich Warm Addictive EDT

Elizabeth Taylor Love & White Diamonds edt (Carlos Benaïm)

I recently reviewed Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds as a classic powerhouse (read here). A flanker, Love & White Diamonds is inspired by the actor’s passion for flowers and diamonds. It features a citrus twist on the original, with opening notes of petitgrain, orange blossom and neroli. The heart is all floral and features notes of gardenia, Turkish rose, jasmine sambac and tuberose. Although not as complex as the original, it earns its spot on this best budget fragrance buys list for its charm and longevity. R750 for 100ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Elizabeth Taylor Love & White Diamonds EDP

Jeanne Arthes Cobra Man EDT

There’s more complexity to this woody-aromatic fragrance than its price tag suggests. It opens with notes of citrus, orange blossom and rosemary. The heart is quite unusual and features notes of ginger and angelica among the more familiar cinnamon and lavender. The base is warm and cosy, with notes of sandalwood, tonka bean and vanilla bringing smoothness. Jean Arthes is a French fragrance company that’s based in Grasse, the heartland of French perfumery. Another option from the brand well worth sniffing out is the leather-licious Colonial Club Legend EDT. R209 for 100ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Jeanne Arthes Cobra For Men EDT

Elizabeth Arden Red Door EDt (Carlos Benaïm)

Originally launched in 1989 (and now with five flankers), Elizabeth Arden Red Door EDT is still one of the company’s best-sellers. Sweet and complex at the same time, it features over 20 listed notes. The sweetness comes through from the beginning, courtesy of peach and plum notes. But it’s really the honey and abundance of floral notes (carnation, tuberose, orchid, violet, rose, freesia, lily, jasmine, ylang-ylang and heliotrope) that makes this EDP such a sweet and agreeable bouquet, depending on your preferences. R750 for 100ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Elizabeth Arden Red Door EDP

 

 

Posted on

Powerhouse Fragrances: Antonio Puig Quorum EDT, Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds EDT, Lancôme Trésor EDP, YSL Opium EDP, Chanel Antaeus EDT, YSL Kouros EDT

Powerhouse Fragrances - Chanel Antaeus EDT

Clean and reserved fragrances certainly have a place. But sometimes I just want to reach for one of the classic powerhouse fragrances from previous decades that leave an indelible trail wherever you go. These powerhouse fragrances are probably OI (olfactorily incorrect) in these times of open-plan office sensitivities. So finding the right time and environment to wear them is crucial.

Powerhouse Fragrances - Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds EDT

This list of mine is just a snapshot of possible powerhouse fragrances. What are your favourite powerhouse fragrances? Do you have the vintages of any of these?

“These powerhouse fragrances are probably OI (olfactorily incorrect) in these times of open-plan office sensitivities.”

ANTONIO PUIG QUOROM EDT (CARLOS BENAIM)

Originally launched in 1981, Quorum packs an old-school power punch with dominant notes of oakmoss, leather, tobacco, artemisia and sandalwood. This bargain fragrance is super-masculine stuff, irresistibly earthy and is as far from generic as you can get. It’s not often you will find quality at this price, so hunt it down now. R245 for 50ml and R360 for 100ml.

Powerhouse Fragrances - Antonio Puig Quorum EDT

ELIZABETH TAYLOR WHITE DIAMONDS EDT (CARLOS BENAIM)

If you think celebrity fragrances lack staying power in both sense of the phrase, you need to wear Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds EDT. Launched in 1991, it takes me back to a time of big-time glamour (big hair, lots of hairspray and smoke). It’s a white floral and the aldehydes-o-meter is turned up very high. Bold and audacious! R750 for 100ml.

Powerhouse Fragrances - Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds EDT

LANCÔME TRÉSOR EDP (SOPHIA GROJSMAN)

So your mom might have worn this back in 1990 when it was launched. But please don’t let that “mature” label put you off this sweet floriental that could teach most of today’s fruity-florals a thing or two. It features a large and luscious rose note at is heart. Little wonder it has spawned over 20 flankers and limited editions. R1 350 for 50ml.

Powerhouse Fragrances - Lancome Tresor EDP

YSL OPIUM EDP

It’s not a coincidence that so many powerhouses were released in the 70s and 80s. Those decades were not a time for shy, reserved fragrances. YSL Opium EDP is one of the perfect examples of this “big is best” is philosophy. Although this spicy oriental may have lost some strength between the 1977 and 2009 versions, the latter is still an elaborate oriental staple for any perfume-lover’s collection. R2 030.00 for 90ml.

Powerhouse Fragrances - Yves Saint Laurent Opium EDP

CHANEL ANTAEUS EDt (JACQUES POLGE)

This is one of the classics of modern perfumery. All perfumers looking to create a new masculine fragrance beyond today’s formulaic releases should study this one. Macho yet sophisticated at the time, it’s one of the best male powerhouses around, even 18 years after its original release. Unashamedly woody and smoky, it’s animalic a-go-go. R1 600 for 100ml.

Powerhouse Fragrances - Chanel Antaeus EDT

YSL KOUROS EDT (pierre bourdon)

Another big-hitter from the 80s with seductive musky and animalic overtones that’s still going strong almost 40 years later. Featuring 20 listed notes, it’s a complex thing of beauty, with standout notes of coriander, patchouli, aldehydes, honey, musk and leather creating a powerfully seductive effect. R1 330.00 for 100 ml.

Powerhouse Fragrances - Yves Saint Laurent Kouros EDT

 

Posted on

Christmas Fragrance Shopping: To Give Or Not To Give

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Chloe Nomade EDP

Whether you’re looking for some Christmas fragrance shopping to up the festive ante, or just want to know what’s new on counters, this extended post is for you. There’s a little bit of everything here, from the ubiquitous fruity floral to the not-seen-nearly-enough floral chypre.

Chloe Nomade EDP (Quentin Bisch)

What a gorgeously green citrus opening to this flora chypre! We don’t have enough of these on the market. Chloe Nomade keeps on giving after that special intro of Mirabelle, lemon and bergamot. The heart features notes of freesia, jasmine, peach and rose. Oakmoss dominates the base, with notes of patchouli and amber in support. Officially, one of my favourite fragrances of 2018 and a top recommendation for your Christmas fragrance shopping list. Congrats, Monsieur Bisch! 30ml for R910, 50ml for R1 345 and R1 655 for 150ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Chloe Nomade EDP

Oscar de la Renta Bella Blanca EDP (Harry Fremont)

Fragrances specifically designed for weddings are a growing trend. While you won’t see me walking down the aisle any time soon, I can appreciate this one for being well thought out. Pretty and elegant, it features standout notes of pear, jasmine sambac and sandalwood. The ornate bottle alone will ensure it does a brisk trade at a counter near you. R1 005 for 50ml and R1 410 for 100ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Oscar de la Renta Bella Blanca EDP

Diesel Bad Intense EDT

Judging from the bumf for this fragrance, Diesel Bad Boy Intense is a stronger version of the bad boy you can’t get enough of. And with listed accords like tobacco and caviar, this EDT sounds promisingly wayward. Not that this is a, er, bad fragrance, but sometimes he’s too much of a wholesome boy-next-door. R1 350.00 for 125 ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Diesel Bad Intense EDT

Boucheron Quatre en Rose EDP Florale (Quentin Bisch)

From the first whiff of this fragrance, rose is very prominent, plus there’s a hint of artimesia. It’s a sweet kind of rose, but appealingly so. As a fruity floral it features a variety of notes, including black currant, mandarin orange, jasmine and peach blossom. Although it’s sweet for sure, it’s fairly sophisticated stuff. R1 310 for 100ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Boucheron Quatre En Rose Florale EDP

Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo Signature EDP (Alberto Morillas)

If Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo EDT is all about tiramisu, the third addition to the range is all about leather, coffee and tonka beans. There are also patchouli, cinnamon and cardamom notes at work here. As you can imagine the effect is one of warm, smooth and seductive sophistication that’s probably best suited to cooler weather and evenings. Well worth sniffing out for your Christmas fragrance shopping. R1 140 for 50ml and R1 580 for 100ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Salvatore Ferragamo Signature EDP

Bulgari Goldea The Roman Night Absolute EDP (Alberto Morillas)

With notes of black plum, orange blossom, jasmine sambac, Madagascan vanilla, black musk and crystal moss, this EDP almost ventures into exotic territory. Like its predecessor, it smells expensive, seductive and luxurious. But this one is richer and denser. Too potent for modern, sensitive offices, it’s a great choice for elegant nights out. (Random fact: I recently read that Alberto Morillas has created over 480 fragrances in his lifetime.)

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Salvatore Ferragamo Signature EDP

Carven Vetiver EDT

Vetiver is one of my favourite notes, so I was keen to try this one. Imagine my surprise when I picked up a very real note of lemongrass in its opening, which confused me a bit. But once I decided to go with it, I started to enjoy this fresh EDT. Notes of bergamot and grapefruit complete the citrus opening theme. Lavender is prominent in the heart of the fragrance. The smell of vetiver comes through in a big way fairly soon. It’s deliciously earthy and dry stuff! An intriguing fragrance that would make for an adventurous choice in your Christmas fragrance shopping. R1 295 for 100ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Carven Vetiver EDT

Mugler Alien Man EDT (Jean-Christophe Herault)

I had huge expectations of this one, as I love the female Alien fragrances for being so unapologetically bold and surprising. I like this woody-leather-aromatic EDT, but I can’t say I love it, because it almost seems to be holding back. And Alien fragrances are never reserved. Methinks (and hopes) that the EDP version, when it makes its appearance, will unleash the full potential of this fragrance. R1 090 for 50ml and R1 390 for 100ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Alien Man EDT

ALIEN LIFE: Is Mugler Alien Man special enough to make your Christmas fragrance shopping list?

Lanvin Eclat de Nuit EDP (Fabrice Pellegrin)

The fruity-floral trend shows no signs of letting up. This fragrance’s cute pink bottle makes me think this EDP is aimed at a younger market. It features notes of lemon, black currant, red apple, jasmine and orange blossom. The base covers another big trend, gourmand, with notes of praline and vanilla. Too sweet for me, but its target market will love it. R1 295 for 100ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Lanvin Eclat de Nuit EDP

Coach Platinum EDP (Bruno Jovanovic)

Launched in 2016, Coach For Men became a popular choice due to its versatility and everyday appeal. Coach Platinum EDP, no doubt, will be equally popular, as it’s just as easy-going. A fresh oriental, it opens with notes of juniper, black pepper and pineapple. Sage adds an aromatic aspect and the notes of cashmeran, leather and sandalwood bring an undeniably smooth luxury to the proceedings. Nice one! R1 055 for 60ml and R1 435 for 100ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Coach Platinum EDP

Bulgari Man Wood Essence EDP (Alberto Morillas)

The 10th addition to the Bulagai Man range opens with notes of cedar and cypress setting the scene. There are also smatterings of coriander leaf and citruses  in the background. Vetiver is at the heart of the fragrance and it accentuates the woody opening, which eventually gives way to benzoin. Even if it’s not the most original fragrance around, it’s solidly masculine and elegant. R1 220 for 60ml and R1 640 for 100ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Bulgari Man Wood Essence EDP

Posted on

3 Sophisticated Men’s Fragrances To Sniff Out (Pronto!): Acqua di Parma Colonia EDT, Milano Cento Him EDT, Dunhill Century EDP

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Acqua di Parma Colonia

Since my conversion to opening up all possibilities by regularly trying female fragrances, I haven’t done as many male-specific fragrance posts. So I am going to compensate for that by focusing on three sophisticated men’s fragrances in this post. These are: Acqua di Parma Colonia EDT (unisex, in fact), Milano Cento EDT and Dunhill Century EDP. Not that women can’t enjoy these sophisticated men’s fragrances on themselves, mind you.

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Milano Cento Him EDT

By “sophisticated fragrances”, I mean scents that have a certain refined elegance. Which is not to be confused with stuffy. They don’t have to try hard to make their wearer feel special. They make an unmistakable style statement, even when it’s a Sunday-in-pajamas kind of day. All three of these fragrances are unique in their own way. But they all share a common citrus theme.

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Dunhill Century EDT

Acqua di Parma Colonia EDT

Classico! One of the biggest names in the niche fragrance industry, Acqua di Parma’s fragrance line was launched in 1916 with this remarkable scent. Over 100 years later, it’s still one of the best sophisticated men’s fragrances on the market. And for good reason. A lot of that has to do with the way this cologne conjures up all sorts of images of the good life, Italian style. (I’m having an extended Amalfi Coast road-trip, as I write this.)

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Acqua di Parma Colonia

Acqua di Colonia begins with a deliciously sharp-ish flourish of Sicilian citrus notes (lemon, sweet orange, Calabrian bergamot). It’s one of the most distinctive cologne openings around that’s impossible to resist. The heart goes into more herbal territory with lavender, verbena and rosemary notes. I don’t pick up the listed Bulgarian rose note. This eventually gives way to a base of subtle, yet uplifting vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli.

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Acqua di Parma Colonia

Did you know?

  • Carlo Magnani founded the company. He used to spray a handkerchief with Colonia and then slip it into his pocket. If that’s not supremely stylish, I don’t know what is.
  • The bottle is inspired by the clean, geometric lines of Art Deco. It was introduced in 1930.
  • Cary Grant, Audrey Hepburn and Ava Gardner are just some of the stars who were seduced by its Italian chic.
  • All labels on all the bottles and packaging are applied by hand.
  • Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy bought the company in 2001.

100ml for R2 075.

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Acqua di Parma Colonia - Audrey Hepburn

Milano Cento Him EDT

Big in the 80s as a sophisticated men’s fragrance and now back on the market after a long absence. To celebrate, Milano Cento founder’s Dean Tatum’s 50th birthday, his wife and son organised a nostalgic present for him in the form of Milano Cento’s big-seller. This gift idea soon morphed into the relaunch of the business as a niche brand. The bottle design and logo have been tweaked and there are also additional products.

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Milano Cento Him EDT

Milano Cento EDT has a reassuringly masculine, Italian barbershop vibe to it. It opens with a fresh splash, courtesy of citrus, bergamot and petitgrain notes. While it’s hard to resist that intro, in the background of this fougère, there’s a developing herbal ensemble in the form of rosemary, lavender and basil notes. Sandalwood, patchouli, clove, cinnamon and amber notes round off the  appeal. Smooth, musky and spicy.

£29.50 for 50ml and £49.50 for 100ml, enquiries@milanocento.com.

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Milano Cento Him EDT

Dunhill Century EDP (Carlos Benaïm)

Officially inspired by the notion of looking forward to a new century, Dunhill’s new pillar fragrance is actually retro-ish in smell. Carlos Benaim has created numerous stand-out fragrances over the years. These include Antonio Puig Quorum EDT, Calvin Klein Euphoria Men EDT, Elizabeth Arden Red Door EDT, Frederic Malle Music For A While EDT and Dunhill Icon EDT. So my expectations of his new creation were high.

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Dunhill Century

I’m not disappointed, although a lot of other online reviewers may differ. I’m immediately hooked by the slightly sweet treatment of the opening bergamot, mandarin and grapefruit notes. This hint of sweetness continues through to the heart of the fragrance, where neroli, olibanum and cardamom notes announce their presence. The sweetness tapers slightly, as the base notes of sandalwood and musk bring a touch of warmth. Please note: The sweetness that’s present throughout this fragrance is the subtle kind. Relief for lovers of sophisticated men’s fragrances!

R1 495 for 135ml.

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Dunhill Century

Posted on

Celebrity Fragrances: Of Perfumes, Preferences & Prejudices

Celebrity Fragrances - Antonio Banderas Power of Seduction EDT

Celebrity fragrances ain’t what they used to be. The category has been in steady decline for several years. According to Women’s Marketing, sales of celebrity scents in the US crashed from $150 million in 2011 to just over $50 million in 2014. In the UK, according to Cosmetics Business, sales of celebrity fragrances plummeted 22% from £56.5m in 2015 to £44.2m in 2016. Despite the grim figures, the business model for this sector is quick-in, quick-out. So new scents are still being launched.

Celebrity Fragrances - Pitbull Miami

Would you wear celebrity fragrances? Such a simple questions can provoke a flurry of reactions ranging from the downright “Never, too common!” and “Yeuch, too tacky!”, to the more measured, “Yes, great value for money” and, “Of course, they are sometimes created by top perfumers”.

Celebrity Fragrances - Christina Aguilera Glam X

Speaking for myself, I know that my decision to wear a particular celeb’s fragrance was sometimes partly based on my pre-existing ideas about that star. Do I like him/her based on interviews I had seen/read and their contributions to popular culture? So Kim Kardashian would have got a big fat “No!” from me.

Celebrity Fragrances - Adam Levine For Him EDT

THE VOICE OF REASON: But do I like you, Adam?

So I decided to put my prejudices and preferences to the test by wearing several celebrity fragrances created for a variety of stars. The results were, to say the least, revealing.

Celebrity Fragrances - Britney Spears VIP Private Show EDP

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the fragrance. Interestingly, quite of a few of these celebrity fragrances don’t have a listed perfumer. Perhaps to create the illusion that the celeb concerned created it?

“Do I like him/her based on interviews I had seen/read and their contributions to popular culture?”

Adam Levine For Him EDT (Yann Vasnier)

What I was expecting from the rock musician: A middle-of-the-road scent featuring an inoffensive rock ‘n roll sensibility, with hints of darn-I’m-so-sexy smugness.

What I got: A huge (and surprising blast) of guava from start to finish that completely dominates all of the other listed notes. This is classic love-it-or-hate-it-stuff that stays put for hours. Depending on your reaction, this is a very good or very bad thing.

R495 for 30ml and R695 for 50ml.

Celebrity Fragrances - Adam Levine For Him EDT

Britney Spears VIP Private Show

What I was expecting from the seen-it-all pop star: Kinda sweet, kinda trashy (in a good way), kinda fun, kinda young.
What I got: With all that initial sweetness, the equivalent of an olfactory filling, courtesy of blood orange, mango nectar and red apple notes. However, the pleasant dry-down of raspberry wood, golden amber and velvet musk brought me to my senses. I have to admit I even found myself thinking, “What’s that nice smell”, after the initial onslaught had thankfully subsided.

R585.00 for 50ml.

Celebrity Fragrances - Britney Spears VIP Private Show EDP

Gold Jay Z (Illias Ermenidis)

What I was expecting from the hip-hop mogul: Bling-meets-street cred, loud and proud.
What I got: An unexpectedly sophisticated, albeit sweet, scent that features a very agreeable pink pepper note front and centre. Other discernible notes in the eclectic mix include: blueberry, violet leaf, vanilla, cardamom, lavender and grapefruit. It’s good to be wrong (sometimes).

R620 for 90ml.

Celebrity Fragrances - Gold Jay Z EDT

Pitbull Man EDT

What I was expecting from the Latino hit machine (or, more accurately, what I was hoping for): A hot number infused with the passions and rhythms of Cuban Miami.
What I got: A fairly standard woody-aromatic vibe, with notes of woods, cardamom, sage, violet and tonka, lending a familiar-ish (and strangely bitter) vibe. Sorry, Armando Christian Perez, a lost opportunity. Congrats, though, on the solid and slick bottle design.

R620 for 100ml.

Celebrity Fragrances - Pitbull Man EDT

Nude by Rihanna EDP

What I was expecting from the R&B superstar: Something provocative, sexy, perhaps even raunchy.
What I got: Featuring notes of guava, pear, gardenia, sambac jasmine and orange blossom, it’s a pretty fruity-floral that’s very much in tune with current trends. If Fenty wanted to show her softer, sweeter side, this is a case of mission accomplished. It’s a quick fader, though, which is not something I would associate with the Bajan.

R620 for 100ml.

Celebrity Fragrances - Nude by Rihanna EDP

Antonio Banderas Power of Seduction EDT

What I was expecting from the seductor Spaniard actor: I’d – shameless self-promotion alert – interviewed the man before (read here) and was familiar with several of his fragrances. So I had a head-start compared to the other celeb fragrances I’ve covered in this post. I won’t go into that here.
What I got: He’s been in the biz of seduction for 20 years and is one of Puig’s big money-spinners. So Banderas knows what will have commercial and relatively enduring appeal. Power of Seduction, his latest fragrance, opens with a fresh ’n fruity blast of bergamot and apple notes. It then morphs into an aromatic focus, with notes of lavender and sage. There’s also a big patchouli note lurking in here. While this typically masculine fragrance won’t be winning any awards for originality, it’s undeniably good quality at the price.

R505 for 50ml and R630 for 100ml.

Celebrity Fragrances - Antonio Banderas Power of Seduction EDT

CHRISTINA AGUILERA GLAM X EDP

What I was expecting from the American singer: Considering the name of this fragrance, it would have to be lashings of grown-up glamour.
What I got: The caramelised peach note opening doesn’t make for a very glam start. But things pick up when the floral aspect – freesia, lily of the valley, heliotrope and jasmine – slinks in. The base is all warm and cosy with notes of musk, amber and sandalwood. This is a nice-enough fragrance, but doesn’t push the glam-o-meter sufficiently to warrant its name.

236ml fine fragrance mist for R199, 30ml for R299 and 60ml for R429.

Celebrity Fragrances - Christina Aguilera Glam X EDP

 

Posted on

Les Eaux de Chanel Review: Paris-Biarritz EDT and Paris-Venise EDT

Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Venise EDP

I’m normally very immune to hype (me a jaded journalist?), but I do make an exception for Chanel fragrance launches. Partly because the French luxury company is so darn good at hype. But more importantly, because Chanel continues to release fragrances that are worthy of our attention and wallets. I first started hearing the hype about Chanel’s new collection, Les Eaux de Chanel, about five months ago when it was launched internationally. And more recently that hype gathered momentum when it was released in South Africa.

Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz EDP

To get straight to the point, I had to have it! I was thrilled when I received two of the three fragrances from the range, Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz and Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Venise. I haven’t smelled Paris-Deauville yet, so this review will focus on the other two.

Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Venise EDP

Before I go into that specifically, here’s some essential info on this collection created by Olivier Polge. Chanel’s in-house perfumer took his initial inspiration from three destinations that featured prominently in Madamoiselle’s remarkable life: Biarritz, Venise and Deauville.

Les Eaux de Chanel

WORK IN PROGRESS: Chanel in-house perfumer Olivier Polge in the lab. Image courtesy of Chanel.

These are where Chanel launched her first collection in her shop; where she journeyed after the death of her beloved Boy Capel; and the Basque resort town where she opened another shop, respectively.

Les Eaux de Chanel - Chanel in Deauville

STYLE STORE: Chanel in front of her Deauville shop in 1913. Image courtesy of Chanel.

While these locations were the starting point for Polge, none of the fragrances are meant to be about these places per se. Instead, he wanted the EDTs to be all about the idea of travel and the possibilities that accompany it.

Les Eaux de Chanel - Coco Chanel in Venice

SUN GODDESS: Chanel at Villa Maatena, Venice, in 1924. Image courtesy of Chanel.

So what do Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz and Paris-Venise smell like?

Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz EDP

LES EAUX DE CHANEL PARIS-BIARRITZ EDT

It opens with a superb citrus character (notes of grapefruit and mandarin). This is supported by an aquatic note, apparently – truth be told, I don’t pick that up. It doesn’t really matter, though, as the lily-of-the-valley accord puts any of my quibbles in their place pronto. What follows next is a seductive blend of vetiver and white musk notes. The overall effect is one of fresh crispness that sees me smelling my wrists longingly after applying it there.

R2 070 for 125ml.  

Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz EDP

LES EAUX DE CHANEL PARIS-VENISE EDT

Featuring a definite oriental vibe, iris features prominently in the fragrance’s top notes, with a hint of neroli. Glorious stuff! Notes of red berry and Grasse geranium add to the immediate appeal. Cedar, amber, vanilla and tonka notes are also present, but in a subtle manner. While this EDT may be classified as a luxurious oriental fragrance, it’s a gentle take on the genre, not a full-on affair. It’s beautiful from start to finish.

R2 070 for 125ml.  

Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Venise EDP

In conclusion, I highly recommend both of these unisex fragrances. Yes, they are fairly light on my skin, but such objects of fleeting beauty are worth every cent. Now, all I need to do is get a whiff of Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Deauville asap.

I’ve included some more archive pics of Chanel below. Hope they will fascinate you too!

Les Eaux de Chanel - Chanel in Biarritz in 1928

DRIVEN: Chanel in Biarritz in 1928. Image courtesy of Chanel.

Les Eaux de Chanel - Chanel in Deauville

FASHION REVOLUTION: Chanel and aunt Adrienne In front of the Chanel boutique, Deauville, in 1913. Image courtesy of Chanel.