FRAGRANCE REVIEWS Archives - Page 10 of 14

July 6, 2019May 14, 2020

Les Exclusifs de Chanel 1957 EDP Review

Many of the big designer brands, from Dior and Dolce & Gabbana to Bulgari and YSL have launched so-called private collections in recent years. These high-end ranges emphasise superior ingredients, craftsmanship and exclusivity, hence the price tag of the fragrances. It’s safe to say that Les Exclusifs de Chanel is one of the best private collections around. Long before they became fashionable, it was launched in 1922 and now numbers 17 fragrances. Many of the Les Exclusifs fragrances are officially for women. However, there’s a fair selection of unisex fragrances to be experienced, too, including the latest addition to the collection, Chanel 1957 EDP.

“These high-end ranges emphasise superior ingredients, craftsmanship and exclusivity, hence the price tag of the fragrances.”

Inspiration for Chanel 1957 EDP

There are several auspicious dates in Chanel history and 1957 is one of them. Coco Chanel was recognised as the most influential designer of the 20th century when she was awarded the Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion in Dallas, Texas, in 1957.

America fell in love with Chanel from the start, from her debut as a milliner in 1912 and the launch of Chanel No 5 in 1924. Not to mention all her high-profile coverage in prestigious magazines such as Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Vanity Fair over the decades.

The number 1957 is also the amalgamation of her birth date (19 August) and a reference to the address of the largest Chanel store in the United States in New York City (15 E 57th St).

So what does Chanel 1957 smell like?

From the opening, there’s no mistaking that this is a Chanel fragrance. It has a deceptive simplicity about it. After all, this a fragrance about the finer details.

The opening has a fresh, clean, almost-soapy quality, courtesy of the bergamot and aldehyde (common to many Chanel fragrances) notes. The notes of orange blossom and jasmine bring a delicate floral aspect, while orris adds just the right amount of powderiness. There’s also an interesting contrast between spicy pink pepper and coriander and slightly sweet vanilla and honey notes. Further interest is added by a woodiness in the base, thanks to the cedar note.

None of these elements dominate the scent, as Chanel 1957 is really about its beautiful musk accord, which is present through the various stages of the fragrance. According to Chanel, in-house perfumer Olivier Polge used eight different musks to create it. It gives the fragrance a cosy, easy-going elegance and, according to Polge, will produce different results, depending on the skin chemistry of the wearer. Overall, it’s a chic skin scent in which there is no doubt that the best ingredients have been used to create it.

Chanel is very much about casual chic and this EDP is perfect for those occasions. It’s a great choice when you want to take pleasure in wearing something special, without over-sharing it with everyone in your vicinity.

R3 240 for 75ml and R5 920 for 200ml.

June 28, 2019June 29, 2019

Fragrance Reviews: Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc for Her EDP, Zadig & Voltaire Capsule Collection This Is Him! EDT, Karl Lagerfeld Bois de Vetiver EDT, Bentley For Men Black Edition EDP, Zadig & Voltaire Capsule Collection This Is Her! EDP, Hugo Reversed EDT, Elie Saab Girl of Now Forever EDP, Issey Miyake Nuit d’Issey Pulse of the Night EDP

I haven’t done one of these designer fragrance round-ups this year. Not that I have lost interest in this category. Far from it. Even with all the predictability, there are always good releases to look out for. Where known, the perfumer is listed after the name of the fragrance.

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ PURE MUSC FOR HER EDP (SONIA CONSTANT)

Narciso Rodriguez fragrances are characterised by their musky character. Each time I try a new release, I’m impressed by the different twist on the dominant note. This EDP opens with another enchanting display of musk. It’s fresh and green to my nose, yet cosy and comfy at the same time. White florals amplify that effect, while cashmeran adds muskiness and woodiness to the mix. On paper, Pure Musc for Her sounds very simple, but Constant, who has produced a number of fragrances for the brand, gives it a typically elegant treatment. R1 565 for 50ml and R2 180 for 100ml.

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE CAPSULE COLLECTION THIS IS HIM! 2019 EDT (NATHALIE LORSON)

Zadig & Voltaire is one of the lower-profile designer fragrance brands. I have tried several releases from the French rock-chic label and I’ve always found them to be of a good quality. This one is fresher take on previous versions, with lemon and grapefruit notes setting the scene. Incense is a big part of the This Is Him! franchise and it weaves its way throughout this EDT. It’s not a hard-core incense note, but very easy on the nose. The smoky effect is complemented by vetiver. There’s also a lot of ambroxan going on in this easy-going scent. R850 for 50ml and R1 085 for 100ml.

KARL LAGERFELD BOIS DE VETIVER EDT (CHRISTOPHE RAYNAUD)

Vetiver is one of my favourite ingredients, so my expectations are high when I try any fragrance that claims to contain it. I’ve tried several Karl Lagerfeld fragrances of varying quality, so I was keen to see how this one measured up to some of my favourites. I generally go for highly distinctive, unashamedly earthy vetivers, but I’ve been enjoying this one’s different spin on the theme. From the brand’s Les Parfums Matières collection, it opens with fresh notes of blood orange, lemon and mint. When the vetiver comes through (it’s definitely there), it’s a cool interpretation, followed by the familiar combo of ambroxan and musk. I’ve been wearing this in the middle of a Johannesburg winter, but reckon this one will be at its best in summer. A worthy and well-priced addition to my vetiver collection. R795 for 100ml.

BENTLEY FOR MEN BLACK EDITION EDP

Some people find the idea of an automotive brand in the fragrance biz a bit bizarre, even unwelcome. But from my experiences with Bentley fragrances in recent years (the luxury brand made its fragrance debut in 2013), I can report that it has produced scents that are well worth exploring if solid masculine-profile smells are your thing. This EDP has a distinctive tangerine, pink pepper and nutmeg notes opening. There’s an earthy patchouli vibe in the middle, which is further developed by incense, moss and tobacco base notes. It strikes a nifty balance between sweet, spicy and woody. R1 395 for 100ml.

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE CAPSULE COLLECTION THIS IS HER! 2019 EDP (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR AND MICHEL ALMAIRAC)

I had an inkling from the funkily designed bottle that this would be a sweetie – and I wasn’t wrong. But fortunately it’s a sweet fragrance with an interesting twist. It opens with big notes of pear and jasmine and then a chestnut cream note makes it appearance. Sometimes listed notes mean nothing, but I can actually pick up this one. Pity I can’t say the same for the warm sand accord, which sounds wonderful. Nevertheless, it all settles very nicely on a creamy sandalwood and musky ambrette base. Prettiness all round. R1 110 for 50ml and R1 470 for 100ml.

HUGO BOSS REVERSED EDT

The Hugo range has been in production since 1995 and releases have been marked by their fresh youthfulness. The latest addition is no exception. It opens with a double whammy of citrus crispness (Calabrian bergamot and grapefruit), followed by an aromatic hit of rosemary and a soupcon of vetiver. It’s a straightforward, no-frills construction, in which you can actually smell all of the notes, that’s ideal for younger men looking for a spray ‘n go. R895 for 75ml and R1 195 for 125ml.

ELIE SAAB GIRL OF NOW FOREVER EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION & SOPHIE LABBE)

I believe in trying all fragrances that come my way, even if I am evidently not part of a fragrance’s target market. Elie Saab Girl of Now was originally launched in 2017 and must be doing well, as the second flanker, Girl of Now Forever, was launched earlier in 2019. Created by a highly regarded fragrance duo, it’s officially aimed at younger women. This EDP is a glam-girlie confection of lemon zest, raspberry, black currant, almond and vanilla notes. It’s unashamedly sweet and fruity, with a hint of tartness. It’s too sweet for me, but I can smell the appeal of this fun and youthful scent. R925 for 30ml, R1 465 for 50ml and R1 985 for 90ml.

ISSEY MIYAKE NUIT D’ISSEY PULSE OF THE NIGHT (LOC DONG)

I have a love-hate relationship with Issey Miyake. On the one hand, one of my favourite fragrances from the 90s will always be Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme EDT. But on the other, sometimes the Japanese brand is guilty of a relentless flow of indistinguishable flankers. The latest addition to the Nuit d’Issey range shares some of the woody and leather qualities of the original released in 2014, but it has much to offer in its own right too. The top is dominated by a beautifully smoky kyara incense note, followed by a big blast of patchouli intermingled with amber. It’s smooth from top to bottom, with a touch of sweetness. R1 500 for 100ml.

June 15, 2019May 14, 2020

Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP Review

Creed. The name alone is enough to elicit hyper devotion and debate among its fans that sometimes borders on the religious. Founded in 1760, the Paris-based niche fragrance house is a father-and-son business that has created numerous classic fragrances through the generations. But if you were to insist on one that captures what the upmarket brand is all about, it would have to be the wonderfully named Creed Green Irish Tweed.

Perfumer

Olivier Creed Sixth Generation created this scent that was released in 1985. Tradition is very important to Creed, so all the family perfumers through the generations are given royal-sounding names.

Olivier Creed Sixth Generation is responsible for an impressive succession of Creed classics. These include: Aventus EDP, Bois du Portugal EDP, Erolfa EDP, Himalaya EDP, Millésime Impérial EDP and Virgin Island Water EDP.

Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP - Olivier Creed Sixth Generation — IMAGE: creedperfume.com.au

There’s also much online speculation that the legendary Pierre Bourdon helped create Green Irish Tweed.

So what does Creed Green Irish Tweed Smell Like?

Some brands go to elaborate lengths to describe the inspiration behind their fragrances. Creed keeps it simple (and believable) for Green Irish Tweed: “A stroll through the Irish countryside.”

With the trio of top notes of lemon, Indian verbena and peppermint, this fragrance makes an immediate and distinctive impression. It’s bracingly fresh, crisp and clean..” If this is what a walk through the Irish countryside is all about, then let’s continue the journey…

Creeed Green Irish Tweed EDP - Irish countryside — GOING GREEN: Creed Green Irish Tweed is inspired by a walk in the Irish countryside. IMAGE: ireland.com

The heart of the fragrance belongs to a compelling violet leaf note. It builds on the fresh, green vibe of the opening. The base has a slight woody focus, courtesy of the sandalwood note, and the iris note adds an element of powderiness.

And what about the musky ambergris that’s commonly listed in Creed fragrances and part of the reason why they are so expensive? If this rare by-product of the digestive system of the sperm whale is present in this scent, it’s certainly not as distinctive as the one found in Creed Millésime Impérial EDP.

Almost 35 years since its launch, Creed Green Irish Tweed remains of the brand’s big sellers and it’s easy to understand why. It’s a unique perfume that’s signature scent material.

June 1, 2019May 14, 2020

Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud Review

Ever since it was founded in 1916 in Parma, Italy, by the super-dapper Carlo Magnani, Acqua di Parma has been synonymous with luxury and the good life, Italian style. All serious perfume-lovers know Acqua di Parma Colonia, a 20th-century citrus classic. From the Colonia versions to the Blu Mediterraneo Collection, Acqua di Parma has built a thriving business on high-quality variations on the citrus theme. Perhaps the most intriguing of these is Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud Eau de Cologne Concentrée, with its contrasts of refreshing citrus and deep oud. From the brand’s Ingredient Collection, it was launched in 2012.

SO WHAT DOES ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA OUD SMELL LIKE?

The citrus notes of Calabrian bergamot and Italian orange open this fragrance in typically uplifting Acqua di Parma style.

The oud comes through quickly after that. Warm, sensual and smooth, without being overwhelming, it’s a refined take on the oud theme. The oud is accompanied and complemented by a strong and silky leather accord, which, for some reason, is not listed in the official notes. But make no mistake, it’s a big part of this fragrance. The coriander note adds a nice spicy touch.

The base adds to the feeling of warmth with the notes of Moroccan Atlas cedarwood, Indonesian patchouli and sandalwood accord in perfect harmony.

VERDICT

Harmonious is a good way to describe this scent. Before you try it, you might think that the combination of citrus and oud will be a total mess. When you wear it, you will see how all the elements work together to produce a scent that’s eminently elegante. As a concentrated cologne, it delivers good performance, which is not always the case with colognes.

If you want a smart oud fragrance with a difference and that’s not too in your face, Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud is the perfect choice.

It’s a pity that Acqua di Parma frequently doesn’t list its perfumers, especially when they produce such good work.

PRICE

R3 375 (100ml) to R4 680 (180ml).

WHERE TO BUY IT

https://www.foschiniforbeauty.co.za/pdp/acqua-di-parma-colonia-oud-eau-de-cologne/_/A-000179AAOG2

May 24, 2019May 27, 2019

Maison Christian Dior – Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

Perfume-lovers were in for the deluxe treatment when the first Maison Christian Dior on the African continent opened its doors in Johannesburg in 2018. We all know Dior for its haute couture, “new look” style and its associations with all things Parisian. So expectations were high of the luxury fragrances on offer. I’m not one for shopping malls, but I’ve popped into the boutique a few times to lap up the chic ambience. These are my impressions.

The look and feel of the store

Sophisticated and modern, with reminders of Dior’s grand heritage. Don’t mistake the quietness of Maison Christian Dior, compared to many of the other shops in the centre, for a lack of business. It’s all about the quality of the shopper here, not the quantity. Special touch: A video wall that features Dior’s property in the south of France, Château de La Colle Noire.

Taking its cue from the increasing demand for exclusive, high-quality fragrances, La Collection Privée Christian Dior was launched in 2004. Three fragrances – Bois d’Argent EDP, Eau Noire EDP and Cologne Blanche EDP – were available at that stage. The collection, now numbering 26 fragrances (22 are available in South Africa), is divided into sensuals, orientals, florals, light florals and fruity florals. Each fragrance comes in a sleek cylindrical bottle with a black magnetic cap, originally designed by then Christian Dior homme creative director, Hedi Slimane.

“The collection, now numbering 26 fragrances (22 are available in South Africa), is divided into sensuals, orientals, florals, light florals and fruity florals.”

It has also expanded to include candles, bath and body products, and accessories. Most of the fragrances have been created by highly respected perfumer François Demachy.

The latest launch

The fruity floral Holy Peony EDP was launched earlier in 2019. It’s a soft, pretty and slightly sweet take on peony, with a big helping of apricot rose. The composition also features notes of red fruits, wood and musk.

The best seller

South Africans like their fragrances potent and long-lasting. So it’s no surprise that the unisex Oud Ispahan, which was launched in 2014, does so well in Maison Christian Dior. With notes of smoky woods, rose, frankincense and resin, it’s a smooth and sophisticated oud.

FRAGROOM favourite

Cuir Cannage EDP which, I am told, has been discontinued. Before it disappears from the shelves completely, make sure to grab a bottle of this beauty. Officially, it’s inspired by “an immersion in the personal sphere of a woman’s handbag, where you could smell the scents of leather, lipstick, metal, candy, or paper”, according to the brand’s website. However, it is, in fact, perfectly unisex. There’s no doubting this is a superb leather fragrance, but what really makes it so special is how well Demachy balanced it with the floral and woody aspects.

The service

The exterior of Maison Christian Dior might say intimidatingly exclusive, but the service is friendly and welcoming. Of course, I got good service, as the staff knew I was a blogger. However, I’ve watched them interacting with customers and they all received the same professional service. Hard selling is not Dior style and it’s good to know that staff have a history with the brand, so they know their stuff.

Verdict

Maison Christian Dior is all about the luxury experience. It’s the place to visit if you’re in search of high-quality, well-crafted perfumes with a sense of history. Attention to detail is premium level, especially when it comes to the packaging of purchases.

Contact details

Maison Christian Dior, Shop U315, Sandton City, Rivonia Road, Johannesburg. Tel: 010 001 2590. Email: storemanager@christiandior.co.za.

May 11, 2019May 14, 2020

Montblanc Explorer EDP Review

Five months into 2019 and the first BIG designer fragrance launch of the year is here. I am talking about the release of Montblanc Explorer EDP, the new fragrance pillar from the German luxury goods company.

I’ve been seeing many IG posts on this fragrance and recently attended a very lavish and exclusive launch event, which just affirmed how much money the brand is putting into this launch. I’m not one for predictions, but I reckon it’s a safe bet that Montblanc Explorer is set to be one of the fragrance money-spinners of 2019.

PERFUMERS

A trio of top perfumers collaborated on this perfume: Antoine Maisondieu (Montblanc Legend Night EDP, Comme des Garçons Black EDT, Gucci Rush For Men EDT), Olivier Pescheux (Diptyque Tempo EDP, Paco Rabanne 1 Million EDT, Versace Eros Flame EDP) and Jórdi Fernandez (24 Gold EDT, Carner Barcelona Latin Lover EDP, Ex Nihilo Brompton Immortals EDP).

“All of these noses come with serious niche and designer fragrance credentials, and have a strong sense of commercial appeal.”

All of these noses come with serious niche and designer fragrance credentials, and have a strong sense of commercial appeal. They were specifically chosen for this project due to their expertise in the three key notes of Montblanc Explorer: Calabrian bergamot (Maisondieu), Haitian vetiver (Pescheux) and Indonesian patchouli (Fernandez).

Montblanc Explorer Review - Jordi Fernandez — PATCHOULI EXPERTISE: Jórdi Fernandez is one of the co-creators of Montblanc Explorer EDP.

PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS

This smooth woody-aromatic-leather fragrance works well from start to finish. The Calabrian bergamot note sets the scene with its fresh, sunny and uplifting character. Notes of clary sage and pink pepper add aromatic interest.

Montblanc Explorer Review - Bergamot — CITRUS EFFECT: Calabrian bergamot is one of the key ingredients of Montblanc Explorer EDP. Image: Givaudan.

The Haitian vetiver brings the unmistakeable qualities of earth, grass and smoke. This is supported by a hint of leather. The earthy character is emphasised by a double dose of warming patchouli and ambery ambroxan.

Montblanc Explorer EDP is highly versatile and can be worn to the gym, the office, a nightclub or on a date night. It’s also not season-specific. Just another reason why Montblanc Explorer will be a huge success.

Montblanc Explorer Review - Vetiver — EARTHY: Haitian vetiver is at the heart of Montblanc Explorer EDP. Image: Givaudan.

PACKAGING

A lot of thought and craftsmanship has gone into the design of the bottle with its leatherish sheath. The solid and substantial spherical bottle was designed by well-known South African fashion designer-turned-industrial designer Mark Eisen, who also designed the award-winning Dunhill Icon bottle.

VERDICT

It’s elegant and masculine stuff with good performance and sillage. If compliments are important to you when you wear a fragrance, look no further. I wouldn’t say Montblanc Explorer is particularly adventurous or innovative, but it is very well crafted and easy on the nose. Expect to smell it a lot this year and no doubt there will be a rollout of flankers over the next few years. Although officially aimed at men with a sense of adventure (which sounds like an awful lot of fragrances), this is a genuine crowd-pleaser and will appeal to a large demographic.

April 6, 2019May 14, 2020