In an increasingly corporatised fragrance world (whether niche or designer), Sisley stands out for all the right reasons. Acquired by husband-and-wife Hubert and Isabelle d’Ornano in 1976, the Paris-based company’s first fragrance in 1977, Sisley Eau de Campagne EDT (also one of Jean-Claude Ellena’s earlier creations), set the tone for future releases.
IMAGE: Jean-Claude Ellena.
Almost 50 years later, there’s no doubting the central role the family play in Sisley. Hubert d’Ornano died in 2015, but Isabelle is still active in the company, with son Philippe d’Ornano, the president of Sisley; daughter Christine d’Ornano, managing director; and Daria Botin, Isabelle d’Ornano’s granddaughter, head of Sisley’s in-house creative studio.
IMAGE: Sisley.
This family approach gives Sisley a most appealing mix of continuity, eccentricity and non-conformity, which is also reflected in many of the names and inspiration of several scents.
IMAGE: Sisley.
Oud, gourmands and any other fragrance trends? Apologies, you won’t find those in the Sisley world. But what you will find is a quintessentially French approach to luxury – fragrance as an expression of culture – akin to Hermès, if you will.
The brand gets my utmost respect for not churning out perfume products several times a year, every year. This gives me the distinct impression they’re in the business of luxury for the right reasons.
Another plus: their collaborations with artists, many of whom are family friends. For example, the commissioned work of Polish sculptor Bronislaw Krzysztof was turned into the top for the bottle of Sisley Eau du Soir EDP (more on this fragrance below).
This passion for and support of the arts is reflected in their Trois-Cinq Friedland cultural programme (situated at the company HQ in Paris) and the Sisley Beaux-Arts de Paris Award for Young Creators.
And now my thoughts on some of their fragrances below:
SISLEY EAU DU SOIR EDP
One word to describe this 1990 release created by Jeannine Mongin: enchanting. But such is the beauty of this scent inspired by Isabelle d’Ornano’s childhood memories of the Alcazar Palace gardens in Spain, I’ll elaborate more.
The citric freshness via grapefruit and mandarin orange makes way for a bouquet that showcases the richness of the white floral syringa. Rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang are in the floral mix too, with black pepper spicing it up and juniper laying on the fresh aromatics. Oakmoss (pushed to the legal max) and patchouli bring earthy woodiness to the drydown, with musk completing this sensual treat.
It’s old school and timeless at the same time. Which means I can’t get enough of it.
SISLEY SOIR D’ORIENT EDP
The use of the term “orient” is now flagged as a “sensitive geopolitical reference”, according to my Microsoft review feature. This could be problematic for a whole genre in perfumery which relies on the use of this word to conjure all sorts of olfactory imagery.
Fortunately, there’s no problem whatsoever with this 2015 release created by Olivier Pescheux.
It’s all about a silky Turkish rose infused with the smoke of incense and warm spiciness of black pepper and saffron. What’s that greenery lurking in the background? It’s galbanum treated with admirable restraint. The aromatics of geranium makes an appearance, too, and then settles with creamy sandalwood and musky patchouli.
An oriental, indubitably, in a super-sophisticated style that reminds me just how good a perfumer Pescheux was before his untimely death in 2023.
SISLEY L’EAU RÊVÉE D’HUBERT EDT
From the Les Eaux Rêvées Collection (launched in 2023 and inspired by the various generations of the family), this Alexis Dadier creation is everything I want a green fragrance to be: fresh, sharp and uncompromising.
The initial greenery is expressed through a number of herbal notes: mint, buchu (the South African plant) and shiso (the Japanese mint). As the fresh spiciness softens, the aromatics of geranium (almost grassy) comes through, with dry woodiness from papyrus. The woodiness continues through to the drydown featuring earthy notes of oakmoss and patchouli. It’s almost fizzy. Perhaps the listed Ambroxan at work?
If you’re new to greens, be warned: this EDT will be too much for you.
SISLEY L’EAU RÊVÉE D’IKAR EDT
After the sharpness of Sisley L’Eau Rêvée d’Hubert, this one may seem relatively subdued. I’m glad I stuck with it, as it has its own abundant merits and more complexity.
Starting softly with fresh citrus notes of lemon and bitter orange, it builds up to resinous, almost waxy mastic (also known as lentisque), with iris softening the edges with a teeny-weeny hint of sweetness in the background. The drydown is earthy in character, courtesy of vetiver and labdanum, but isn’t heavy.
A Vincent Ricord creation that reveals elegantly sniff-me nuances with each wearing.
DID YOU KNOW?
* Sisley was originally co-founded by Jean-Francois Laporte (of L’Artisan Parfumeur and Maître Parfumeur et Gantier) fame.
* According to Forbes.com, before acquiring Sisley, Hubert d’Ornano launched Orlane with his father and brother in 1953, which they sold in 1968. Hubert’s grandfather Guillaume co-founded Lancôme in 1935 and sold his shares in the 1950s.
* Sisley is highly regarded for its premium skincare, make-up and hair products, and luxury spas in destinations such as Paris, London, Milan, Mykonos, Doha and Mauritius.
* Isabelle d’Ornano gave access to writer Christiane de Nicolaÿ-Mazery and photographer Christina Vervitsioti-Missoffe to capture her living and work spaces for the coffee-table book, What a Beautiful World!: The Designed Spaces of Isabelle d’Ornano (Abrams, 2022).
IMAGE: Christina Vervitsioti-Missoffe.
Sisley fragrances are available in South Africa from selected Woolworths, Arc and Edgars stores.
