If you went shopping at a niche retailer, you could be forgiven for thinking that niche must be synonymous with big spending. And there are certainly many examples of that. But Essential Parfums proves otherwise.
Perhaps because the French brand founded by Géraldine Archambault in 2018 keeps concentrations at the lower end of the EDP spectrum, Essential Parfums keeps costs lower too.
MORE FOR LESS: Géraldine Archambault, the founder of Essential Parfums. IMAGE: Essential Parfums.
The house provides quality, distinctiveness and creativity at a most attractive price that’s even cheaper than many designer brands. When I saw the price on a bottle when I first started getting into the house, I thought it must be a mistake. But no, I’ll adopt that dreadful phrase, it is what it is. Even with our hideous exchange rate. (They’ve just gone the extrait de parfum route with Bois Impérial. Also very reasonably priced.)
My quick thoughts on some Essential Parfums releases below.
Every now and then one I come across a fragrance that reminds me why I love a raw material so much. This 2023 release is one of those perfumes.
Patchouli can be described as earthy, chocolate-y, woody and spicy, and all those qualities are brought out here, along with some ambergris muskiness via the synthetic Cetalox.
While earthy, it’s not dirty. Perhaps due to perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin’s use of the dsm-firmenich captive molecule Clearwood.
ESSENTIAL PARFUMS ROSE MAGNETIC EDP (SOPHIE LABBÉ)
Sophie Labbé enhances the fruitiness of the queen of florals with litchi in this 2018 release.
The sharpness of grapefruit and freshness of mint tempers the sweetness of vanilla, with clean musks in sensual attendance.
The 2018 Bruno Jovanovic creation Mon Vetiver is just that. My (kind of) vetiver.
The soft smokiness of Haitian vetiver meets the sharp freshness of juniper berry, lime and gentian. There’s woody muskiness from the synthetic Cashmeran, while patchouli enhances the earthiness of the title note.
It all adds up to produce a vetiver scent that’s easy on the nose and the pocket.
ESSENTIAL PARFUMS THE MUSC EDP (CALICE BECKER)
Created by Calice Becker, The Musc (2018) sees the Givaudan captive molecule musk Nirvanolide faceted with the fresh spiciness of ginger, floral tones of lavandin and sophisticated sweetness of beeswax.
Australian sandalwood brings woody creaminess to the seemingly simple composition. The result: powdery distinctiveness with contrasts of freshness and warmth.
Before Olivier Pescheux died in 2023, he created gems like this 2019 release. It’s everything I want a vanilla-centric fragrance to be: warm, spicy, cosy, creamy, not too sweet.
The woodiness in the mix, courtesy of cedar, ups the appeal. Although lots of effort must have gone into its creation, it doesn’t try too hard to please.
The title note comes to life with the bright citrus of mandarin orange and clementine in this 2022 creation.
There’s more freshness from notes of freesia and mandarin orange, with complexity from black tea and sandalwood. I always feel calmer when I wear it.
ESSENTIAL PARFUMS ORANGE X SANTAL EDP (NATALIE GRACIA-CETTO)
Let’s do some fragrance arithmetic, shall we?
Orange x santal = Yes, yes please.
There’s a most pleasing contrast of sweet and sour in the opening of this 2018 release. There’s also fresh aromatics from basil and cypress. Sustainably sourced Australian sandalwood brings on the creaminess in the drydown, with a touch of earthy oakmoss. The price, as with all releases from this company, also makes me a happy boy.
ESSENTIAL PARFUMS BOIS IMPERIAL EDP (QUENTIN BISCH)
Is it? Or isn’t it? And does it really matter?
There’s more than enough online discussion about the similarities between Essential Parfums Bois Impérial EDP and Marc-Antoine Barrois Encelade*, both created by Quentin Bisch. So I won’t get bogged down in that debate here.
First, there’s the citric spiciness of Nepalese timut pepper absolute mingling with the clove-ish tones of Thai basil in this 2020 release.
The highly accomplished perfumer then goes down the woody path with a combo of captive molecules from Givaudan (the fragrance company he works for) – Akigalawood (upcycled patchouli) and Georgywood (cedarwood) – and the earthiness of Indonesian patchouli. A good helping of Ambrofix gives it muskiness and staying power.
This is what I call a shape-shifter. Despite its seeming simplicity on paper, it reveals different facets with each wearing. Sometimes fresh and breezy, other times deep and spicy and then silky, almost ISO E Super-ish. But always intriguing and rewarding.
*For the record: it’s similar. And it isn’t. Hope that helps.
Essential Parfums are available in South Africa from Skins.
What is happiness? Don’t worry, I’m not about to get all existential on you. Yet. In this case, I’m talking about happy fragrances that make me feel good when I wear them. Essential in our increasingly nasty world and sometimes the turbulence of my own inner world.
In fragrance-land, unsurprisingly there’s a whole happy genre now, with some spelling it out for us. I’m thinking of the rather good Clinique Happy and Chopard Happy ranges.
If fragrance is about emotions and feelings and upliftment is what I’m after, then this selection is guaranteed to put me in a good mood. I normally preach the virtues of giving a fragrance time to develop to truly appreciate it, but these work for me from the get-go and provide a hit of instant gratification. Not very spiritually enlightened, I know… But you get the point.
ESSENTIAL PARFUMS ORANGE X SANTAL EDP* (NATALIE GRACIA-CETTO)
Let’s do some fragrance arithmetic, shall we?
Orange x santal = Yes, yes please.
There’s a most pleasing contrast of sweet and sour in the opening of this 2018 release from the French niche brand. There’s also fresh aromatics from basil and cypress. Sustainably sourced Australian sandalwood brings on the creaminess in the drydown, with a touch of earthy oakmoss. The price, as with all releases from this company, also makes me a happy boy.
NUXE PRODIGIEUX FLORAL LE PARFUM EDP
The French pharmacy brand might be better known for their skincare products. But their fragrances are pretty good too. For example, this 2021 release.
There’s some lovely citric freshness in the opening from grapefruit. The freshness keeps coming with the lemon-ish floral note of magnolia and clean musk.
If you want to go all out, you can treat your skin (and nose) to the equally good Huile Prodigieuse Florale, the multipurpose oil for face, body and hair.
GOLDFIELD & BANKS BOHEMIAN LIME EDP* (CARINE CERTAIN BOIN)
When the heat hits (as it often does in Johannesburg, even in winter), there’s only one thing to do. Apply Goldfield & Banks Bohemian Lime EDP.
Australian finger lime zings with zesty freshness, supported by the spiciness of coriander and earthiness of vetiver. What this 2020 creation for the Australian niche brand lacks in complexity, it more than compensates with its uplifting moreish-ness.
*These happy fragrances available in South Africa from Skins.
Almost 10 years after it was released in 2016, Gucci Intense Oud EDP remains one of my favourite ouds, designer or otherwise.
Who cares if it’s real oud or not. Aurélien Guichard knows how to create an effective semblance of the precious ingredient through the skilful work he brings to his own brand, Matiere Premiere, and others. He’s the man behind oud standouts such as Robert Piguet Oud EDP (2012) and Matiere Premiere Oud Seven EDP (2021).
IMAGE: Matiere Premiere.
From the bottle to the scent, Gucci Intense Oud EDP is solid stuff. It gets going with the slight fruitiness of raspberry and pear notes. The perfumer makes the most of the inherent fruitiness of frankincense while also taking it in a woody spicy direction, with soft hints of rose and orange blossom in the background. The oud effect is subtle but noticeable, with earthiness from patchouli and animalic leather adding to the warmth.
While wearable, accessible and versatile, it also manages to convey something mysterious, exotic and, dare I say it, oriental (now flagged as a sensitive geopolitical reference when I use Microsoft Word Editor to check my document). That’s an impressive balancing act.
If you’re looking for a challenging barnyard oud, Gucci Intense Oud EDP ain’t it. But if you’re looking for something commercial with quality, this is it.
It’s one of those fragrances that make me think when designer brands get it right, they can’t be beat (another fragrance from the Italian designer brand, Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Homme EDP immediately comes to mind). Take that, niche snobs. Ha! Ha!
It looks like it has been discontinued but is still widely available online and even in some stores for a most reasonable price.
Of all the florals at a perfumer’s disposal, tuberose is probably the most potent, intoxicating and divisive. Depending on how it’s used, tuberose fragrances can range from the green and fresh to the downright exotic and erotic.
There was a time when the white floral was synonymous with the forbidden and all sorts of carnality. Young women, especially, might be led astray if exposed to the temptations of tuberose at night.
Originally from Mexico, it is now mainly grown in India, Egypt and France. Tuberose absolute is expensive to produce so perfumers will sometimes use a mix of naturals and synthetics to produce a similar effect.
These are some of my favourite tuberose fragrances, from the classics to more recent releases, in a variety of styles and budgets.
Are tuberose fragrances a “yes” or a “no” for you?
ROBERT PIGUET FRACAS EDP (GERMAINE CELLIER)
There are several classic tuberose fragrances on the market, including Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower EDP and Diptyque Do Son EDT. However, Robert Piguet Fracas remains the benchmark against which all others are measured. It was inducted into the Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2006.
Tuberose is known for its intensity and this EDP, which was launched in 1948, takes it to the max in a most elegant way. Peach and orange blossom notes stand out in the opening, but tuberose takes pride of place in the floral heart of the fragrance, which also includes notes of jasmine, gardenia, osmanthus and narcissus. The sensuality of the tuberose is masterfully complemented by the base notes of sandalwood and musk.
Madonna took major inspiration from Fracas for the creation of her rather good 2012 fragrance debut, Truth or Dare EDP.
GIORGIO BEVERLY HILLS EDT (BOB ALIANO)
The debut fragrance from the designer fashion boutique that put LA’s Rodeo Drive on the luxe shopping map was launched in 1981 with a mega-bash suitable for the so-called “decade of excess”.
From the first spray, with its flourish of sweet orange blossom and peach, and even in its current formulation, it’s unapologetically big. Some might even say it’s brash and ostentatious. Apparently, it was even banned from restaurants due to its overpowering style.
Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT is really about its flamboyant florals, with tuberose, gardenia and jasmine leading the opulent white florals charge. Ylang-ylang also makes a fruity appearance. The overall effect is wonderfully optimistic and uplifting. There’s a lot happening in the drydown. But I can pick out a pleasurable blend of oakmoss, sandalwood and vanilla notes.
More than four decades later and several changes in ownership later, don’t let its banishment to the budget shelves put you off it.
GIVENCHY AMARIGE EDT (DOMINIQUE ROPION)
This 1991 classic has aged well and still makes a powerful statement. Created by legendary master perfumer Dominique Ropion, it’s one of those big, complex and busy compositions. So I won’t claim to be able to detect all the notes.
There’s a fruity opening, courtesy of notes of peach and plum. Orange blossom adds to the luxe vibe. The sumptuous heart is all about florals, especially tuberose and mimosa, their green qualities brought to the fore. The abundant warmth radiates through to the drydown where tonka bean, sandalwood and vanilla stand out.
While this scent is sweet from start to finish, it’s never cloying. I’m talking supreme sophistication here.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR LA CHASSE AUX PAPILLONS EDT* (ANNE FLIPO)
While perfume is not going to solve the world’s problems, it is a reminder of the beauty to be found in it. I’m all for a floral lift and the wonderfully named La Chasse aux Papillons does just that in such a charming way (it’s inspired by childhood memories of chasing butterflies).
Launched in 1999, this EDT is a straight-up bouquet of white flowers that includes jasmine, orange blossom and especially tuberose. The latter is light and bright, not intoxicating and animalic.
Softly sweet, this enchanting scent is guaranteed to put a smile on your face whenever you wear it.
DIPTYQUE DO SON EDT* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)
Inspired by Diptyque co-founder Yves Coueslant’s memories of his childhood in Do Son, Vietnam (then Indochina), this 2005 release from the Paris-based niche brand captures the idea of the special smell of tuberoses wafting on the sea breeze in a beautifully evocative style.
Orange blossom stands out in the intro, with its fresh and sunny sweetness. Its animalic qualities are further developed by the spicy take on tuberose, while jasmine adds to the overall depth. A subtle marine mood is discernible in the background. The warmth of summer is carried through to the drydown, where notes of benzoin and musk are in play.
The 2013 EDP version is also worthy of your attention.
NISHANE TUBERÓZA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (JORGE LEE)
A 2014 release from the Istanbul-based niche brand’s Blossom Collection, Tuberóza opens in bright and light mode, with notes of ylang-ylang and orange blossom.
When the tuberose from Mexico (where it originates from) takes centre stage (can it be any other way?), it’s more fruity than animalic. Gardenia and marigold strengthen the floral ambience. The drydown sees the synthetic Amberwood, all musky woodiness, in combo with creamy sandalwood.
This extrait is a surprisingly uplifting take on the genre. The diva is so charming and warm, no wonder all the other actors are more than happy to lend their support.
MEMO MARFA EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)
The Paris-based niche brand doesn’t just produce some of the best leather fragrances in the biz through their Cuirs Nomades Collection; it also has some superb florals to sniff out.
A 2016 release from the Fleurs Bohèmes Collection, this EDP is quite a streamlined affair by Memo standards and captures the nocturnal heat of its desert city inspiration with creative flair.
Notes of orange blossom and mandarin orange create a suitably warm ambience. Luxuriously creamy tuberose absolute is given more sensual heat with oil of ylang-ylang and its fruity characteristics. An agave accord adds a touch of earthy greenery. The drydown keeps the creaminess going with sandalwood oil, vanilla and musk.
The bottle with its all-seeing eye design is gorgeous too.
Some franchises are more rewarding than others. Since the 2018 re-launch of L’Interdit Givenchy (the original Givenchy L’Interdit was created for Audrey Hepburn in the 1950s), I’ve learned to put any purist tendencies where they belong – in the past.
The range has been proceeding at a steady pace, with a new interpretation every year. L’Interdit EDP Rouge (2021) is my favourite so far. The sexy bottle got my attention first. The scent did the rest.
The opening is all spicy warmth, with notes of ginger, blood orange and pimento leaf. Floral notes of jasmine and orange blossom increase the sensual vibe. Although not officially listed, there’s definitely some animalic tuberose lurking in the bouquet. Creamy sandalwood and spicy patchouli feature in the drydown.
Bloody good stuff, I say.
CHOPARD SPARKLING LOVE EDP (DORA BAGHRICHE)
As we all know, tuberose can be heavy and domineering at the best of times. And that style certainly has its place.
But if I’m looking for a lighter but still distinctive take on the theme, the 2023 release from the Swiss luxury jewellery brand, Chopard Sparkling Love EDP, will do very nicely indeed.
As its name will tell you, Dora Baghriche gives the white floral an effervescent lift with freshness from notes of mandarin and orange and sunny fruitiness from osmanthus and ylang-ylang.
The fruitiness continues into the drydown with Helvetolide, the dsm-firmenich synthetic musk known for its sophisticated smoothness.
GABRIELLE CHANEL L’EAU EDT (OLIVIER POLGE)
While its predecessors, Gabrielle Chanel EDP (2017) and Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP (2019), are more voluptuous tuberose fragrances, the 2024 flanker, Gabrielle Chanel L’Eau EDT, is well worth checking out in its own right if you’re looking for something subtle.
The initial berry fruitiness leads to a floral bouquet of jasmine, ylang-ylang, orange blossom and Grasse tuberose. While dialling down the tuberose, in-house perfumer Olivier Polge takes it in a green and fresh direction, with creamy sandalwood in the drydown completing it.
It’s lighter than the above-mentioned versions. But there’s more than enough character here to keep you coming back for more.
*These tuberose fragrances available in South Africa at Skins.
Looking for proof that perfumery is both a scientific and creative endeavour? Then allow me to introduce you to Nadège Le Garlantezec. The Paris-based perfumer combines both worlds in various creations (see below) with what I’ll call a distinctive “scent-sitivity”.
+ Boucheron Quatre EDP (2015)
+ Ex Nihilo Devil Tender EDP (2016)
+ Liquides Imaginaires Île Pourpre EDP (2016)
+ Jovan Tropical Musk For Him Cologne (2017)
+ L’Occitane en Provence Terre de Lumière EDP (2017)
+ Coach Floral EDP (2018)
+ Rochas Mademoiselle Rochas EDT (2018)
+ Lancôme Idôle EDP (2019)
+ Valentino Donna Born In Roma Coral Fantasy EDP (2022)
+ Ex Nihilo Vesper Glitz EDP (2023)
+ Memo Inverness EDP (2023)
+ Tommy Hilfiger Impact Together EDT (2024)
After completing her chemistry and perfumery studies, Nadège Le Garlantezec joined Givaudan. She’s currently a senior perfumer in the Paris-based fine fragrance team of the Swiss fragrance and flavour company.
Earlier creations of Nadège Le Garlantezec include Eutopie No 6 EDP (2013) and Oriflame Imagination EDT (2014). More recently, in 2022, the career of Nadège Le Garlantezec hit a personal high with Prada Paradoxe.
IMAGE: Givaudan.
WHEN YOU STARTED STUDYING CHEMISTRY AT UNIVERSITY, WERE YOU ALREADY PASSIONATE ABOUT THE WORLD OF PERFUMERY?
Yes, my passion for perfumery was already deeply rooted when I started my studies in chemistry. I chose this path, convinced it was the best way to achieve my dream of becoming a perfumer. This realisation inspired me to pursue my goal wholeheartedly. Chemistry was not always easy, but as soon as I was able to connect it with perfumery, everything changed.
“This connection between synesthesia and perfumery has been essential in my career as a perfumer.” – Nadège Le Garlantezec
I began to mentally visualise scents and develop synesthesias, which allowed me to create. This connection between synesthesia and perfumery has been essential in nurturing my passion and propelling me towards my career as a perfumer.
WHAT DID YOUR EDUCATION AT ISIPCA GIVE YOU?
What struck me the most during this experience were the exceptional encounters with perfumers, as well as the enriching exchanges and the bonds formed with my classmates, who are now valuable friends in the field.
This class of passionate individuals endures and we continue to come together to share our common love for perfumery. ISIPCA confirmed to me that I had my place in the perfumery world.
WHAT WAS YOUR DEBUT AND WHAT DO YOU THINK OF IT NOW?
My first project was the creation of a scented candle. It was an incredible experience, as I was able to see a project take shape and be commercialised. It’s quite an amazing feeling.
Looking back, I feel immense pride in having created something tangible in the realm of olfaction that touched people beyond my family and friends. I still hold onto that sense of wonder, convinced that I will have succeeded in my career if I can maintain that same emotion every day.
HOW DO YOU START YOUR DAY?
My days start in a varied way, without a fixed routine. I listen to my emotions and needs, which allows me to adapt my workplace. This flexibility is essential in a profession where creativity must be nourished by the inspiration of the moment.
IMAGE: L’Occitane en Provence.
YOU CO-CREATED NARCISO RODRIGUEZ NARCISO ROUGE EDP (2018) AND NARCISO ROUGE EDT (2019) WITH YOUR GIVAUDAN COLLEAGUE SONIA CONSTANT. WHAT STOOD OUT FOR YOUR DURING THOSE PROJECTS?
Working on Narciso Rouge was a significant experience, especially because it was one of my first forays into the European market. What struck me particularly was the creative freedom we had to introduce a fruity note into a traditionally musky range.
HOW DOES LANCÔME IDÔLE EDP (2019) AND ITS VARIOUS FLANKERS REPRESENT YOUR CREATIVE AND TECHNICAL APPROACH?
The original idea for Lancôme Idôle EDP was proposed by Shyamala Maisondieu, who focused on a universal scent, that of cleanliness.
Our collaboration with Shyamala Maisondieu and Adriana Medina aimed to transform this powerful and technical accord into an ultra-feminine and floral fragrance, while remaining true to the essence of the Lancôme brand and the initial concept. It is in this approach that our technical work was particularly successful, combining power and delicacy.
“The flankers always represent a wonderful opportunity for the three of us to come together and tell a new story.” – Nadège Le Garlantezec
The flankers always represent a wonderful opportunity for the three of us to come together and tell a new story, which is both a challenge and a pleasure. It’s a chance to express our creativity in each flanker.
WINNING THE BRIEF FOR PRADA PARADOXE EDP (2022), PRADA PARADOXE EDP INTENSE (2023) AND PRADA PARADOXE VIRTUAL FLOWER EDP (2024) MUST HAVE BEEN EXCITING. I SEE THEY INCLUDE SERENOLIDE. WHAT CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT THIS MUSK INGREDIENT AND THE EFFECT IT BRINGS TO THESE FRAGRANCES?
Winning the brief for Prada Paradoxe is a highlight of my career, especially in the context of the COVID-19 pandemic.
It was necessary to adapt to the situation, and it remains a quite powerful story, especially since it was co-created with my mentors, Antoine Maisondieu and Shyamala Maisondieu. Serenolide is a renewable musk that brings a modern and addictive sensuality.
IMAGE: Prada.
ÂME DU COEUR IS YOUR LATEST CREATION (2024) FOR LIQUIDES IMAGINAIRES. YOU’VE ALSO CREATED TELLUS (2015), ILE POURPRE (2016) AND NAVIS (2022) FOR THE BRAND. WHAT DO YOU ENJOY MOST ABOUT WORKING WITH THE COMPANY FOUNDER PHILIPPE DI MÉO?
Working with Philippe Di Méo is always an exciting adventure. He was one of the first clients I met at art exhibitions and installations, long before we began collaborating on fragrance creation.
In the early days of Liquides Imaginaires, he was in search of sanguine waters. I had developed a note after a vacation in Portugal, capturing the essence of the Douro Valley with its hints of port, oak barrels and the interplay between wine and wood. I shared this idea with Philippe, who loved it and bottled it. He offers a rich and fascinating olfactory world that allows us to explore unconventional notes.
WHAT NOTE DO YOU ESPECIALLY ENJOY WORKING WITH? AND IS THERE ONE YOU STRUGGLE WITH?
I don’t set any limits for myself. I appreciate the balance between exploration time and moment of technicality that led us to work with our chosen materials. Some ingredients have been with me forever, while others appear unexpectedly and enrich my palette.
What started out as a trickle has become a veritable flood. I’m talking about the extrait de parfum deluge on the market, big designer and niche brands alike.
As designer becomes more niche and niche becomes more designer (it’s so confusing), this highest fragrance concentration (also called perfume, pure perfume and parfum) is becoming the all-important way to exalt quality.
I knew already that the extrait de parfum is de rigueur but it was confirmed recently when Thibaud Crivelli, founder of Maison Crivelli, told me: “The extraits make up 80% of our sales, so it shows that we’ve found this connection – it is something that people are looking for. It also explains why, moving forward, we are only launching extraits.”
If you know your fragrance history, you’ll know there’s nothing new about extraits, per se. Many of the classics (Chanel No 5, Guerlain Mitsouko, Caron Tabac Blond, etc) were originally released in this concentration decades ago and revered by those who’ve had the good fortune to smell vintage versions of them.
Taking their cue from these grandes dames, many niche brands only do the extrait de parfum thing and those that haven’t realise they’d better do so quick-quick if they’re to maintain their air of exclusivity.
If an eau fraiche (anything from 1% – 3%) and eau de cologne (2% – 4%) are the lowest fragrance concentrations according to the amount of oils, then an extrait de parfum is the highest (20% to 30% upwards), but even here there is lots of variation, depending on which online guide you consult.
To add to the confusion, just because it says “le parfum” on the box doesn’t mean it’s a parfum. The same goes for “elixirs”. The name implies something rich and concentrated but doesn’t automatically mean it’s an extrait de parfum. Best advice: read those boxes carefully.
Another area of contention: performance (and probably the worst way to judge the quality of a fragrance). Just because it’s an extrait de parfum doesn’t mean it’s going to last forever and let everyone know how fabulous you are. Who hasn’t tried to scrub off an EDT they didn’t like but which remained with them for the rest of the day?
So now that I’ve clarified matters as much as I can, let’s get to a selection of some of my favourite extraits.
HERMÈS TERRE D’HERMÈS PARFUM (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)
There are fragrances and then there are modern classics. Sometimes I’m guilty of over-using this term. But if I’m strict in its application, Hermès Terre d’Hermès would surely deserve this accolade. Both in terms of its innovation and influence.
The original from 2006 has Jean-Claude Ellena’s minimalist, but bold style all over it. Nothing is gratuitous in this most elegant of scents that blends the sunny bitterness of grapefruit, subtle earthiness of cedar and mineraline qualities of flint to balanced perfection.
For the 2009 parfum version, also created by Jean-Claude Ellena, there’s no doubt this is still TDH (when a scent is so dear to me, I allow myself such abbreviations).
The citric opening has been heightened and shiso accentuates the freshness with its sharp spiciness. The flint note evolves into an almost burnt treatment of oakmoss, woody and benzoin notes. Although this first flanker is not as well known as its illustrious predecessor, I think it’s very special indeed.
Other top parfum options to check out from the French luxury goods brand: Hermès Voyage d’Hermès Parfum (2012) and Hermès Galop d’Hermès Parfum (2016).
JEROBOAM VESPERO EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (VANINA MURACCIOLE)
In a world of hype and over-exposure, this Paris-based niche brand doesn’t get the attention it should. Let’s do something about that, shall we?
It was founded by François Hénin, the man behind the Jovoy niche fragrance boutiques in cities such as Paris, London and Doha. So clearly the entrepreneur knows quality when he sees / smells it and that same high standard applies to his own perfume company.
A 2017 release, Vespero starts out fresh and fruity with notes of apple, pink grapefruit and bergamot. When those dissipate, there’s an animalic leather vibe with hints of floralcy from geranium and jasmine. François Hénin loves his musks and perfumer Vanina Muracciole interprets that in the most seductive way in the drydown where an amber accord is intertwined with earthy patchouli.
NISHANE HACIVAT EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (JORGE LEE)
Thanks to the huge popularity of Creed Aventus, any fragrance with a pineapple note is inevitably compared to that best-seller. So let’s state categorically: Aventus doesn’t own pineapple and this 2017 release from the Turkish niche brand’s Shadow Play Collection should be judged on its own merits.
Now that I’ve got that out of the way, there’s juicy pineapple galore in the opening. Citrus notes of bergamot and grapefruit ensure it’s not too icky-sticky sweet. Fresh jasmine continues the fruity tropical vibe of the intro, with patchouli and its biotech equivalent Clearwood bringing clean depth. The bitter oakmoss in the drydown makes a pleasing contrast to the sugary aspect.
CHANEL BLEU DE CHANEL PARFUM (OLIVIER POLGE)
Both the EDT (2010) and EDP (2014) versions of Bleu de Chanel (created by Jacques Polge) are defined by their refined take on citrus and cedar notes, among others. While they have different emphases, they are not radically different fragrances. Bleu de Chanel Parfum is not a reinvention of the modern aromatic-woody classic, but it certainly offers a new dimension.
Featuring notes of lemon zest, bergamot and mint, the opening pulls you in immediately with its crisp spiciness. It’s dangerously addictive, so don’t be surprised if you find yourself doing more re-sprays than usual. Notes of lavender and geranium build on the freshness of the intro with their aromatic greenery.
The drydown of sandalwood (sustainably sourced from New Caledonia) elevates this fragrance above its EDT and EDP predecessors. Smooth and creamy, it’s a grown-up, big boy treatment of the precious wood. Cedar enhances the woody character of the fragrance, while the synthetic Iso E Super gives it velvety muskiness.
Bleu de Chanel Parfum is polished perfection. It’s been another best-seller for Chanel. And justifiably so. Some people have accused it of being “boring”, “safe” and “predictable”. I disagree. It’s Chanel at its classic and classy best.
Want something a bit more exclusive from Chanel? You can’t go wrong with Chanel Coromandel Parfum (2019) and Chanel Sycomore Parfum (2022), both from the quality-assured Les Exclusifs de Chanel range.
ORTO PARISI CUOIUM PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)
LEATHER! The bottle wrapping for this 2021 release from the Amsterdam-based niche brand (apparently a reusable vegetable leather) announces its intentions from the start with its brooding animalic potency. Perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri always makes a big statement with his creations.
I reckon there’s a large dose of isoButyl quinoline (the ingredient used to produce leathery earthiness) assisted by the spiciness of black pepper and the smokiness of incense and cade wood oil at work here.
That might intimidate you if you’re more used to smoother, more commercial takes on the genre. It’s given delicate sweetness with notes of orange, violet and vanilla. The drydown maintains the deep and dark mood with labdanum and patchouli.
It’s unequivocally bold and will reward those with more adventurous tastes.
CARON POUR UN HOMME DE CARON PARFUM* (JEAN JACQUES)
Founded in 1904 by Ernest Daltroff, Caron is one of the iconic houses of French perfumery with several classics still in production. It doesn’t get more classic than Un Homme de Caron EDT with its lavender-vanilla combo (if you’re wondering where Francis Kurkdjian took his inspiration for Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male, here you go), which was originally launched in 1934.
The 2024 release Caron Pour Un Homme de Caron Parfum sees in-house perfumer Jean Jacques keeping the lavender – three varieties in the form of French lavender essence, French lavandin essence and French lavender absolute – and developing the vanilla in an amber direction with opoponax essence and styrax resinoid.
For most of its progression, it’s cool, almost metallic on my skin. Which means, I love it.
In the last of my very s-t-r-e-t-c-h-e-d-out posts (let’s call it maximising opportunity) on the Meet The Creators event held by Skins, South Africa’s leading niche retailer, these are my impressions.
Some trivial, some pseudo-profound, some about the state of niche.
+ Influencers are a headache for event organisers. But when some of them command the attention of almost one million followers, the show must go on… only when they arrive.
+ Social media has changed the world of perfume irrevocably, for better and for worse.
+ Niche is as much about commerce as it is about creativity.
+ While brands might be about niche and luxury, there’s nothing glamorous about putting in the hours, days, months and years to make a success of them.
+ Selling and living your brand is a full-time job. It takes immense self-confidence and patience to sell your brand for the umpteenth time.
+ Getting the balance between control freakery (ie, planning by researching the various brands and preparing questions) and spontaneity is a fine art that I’m yet to master.
+ It’s all about the extrait and increasingly the hair spray.
(*Apologies to Nick Cave.)
(**It’s taking me a long time to get going this year.)
Getting more than 10 brand founders together in one place at the same time in a bad reputation city like Johannesburg is no mean feat. But that’s exactly what the team at leading niche retailer Skins did with savoir-faire for their Meet the Creators event.
I got the opportunity to interview most of the founders. Despite my best intentions (I’m so easily distracted, poor time management, etc), I didn’t get around to interviewing Steyn Grober (Aqualis), Jonnie Vigar (Leif) and Jun Lin (Born To Stand Out). Will have to make up for that somehow in the New Year when my brain is up and running again.
Philip Hilege, co-founder of the OG Skins in the Netherlands, was also in attendance. Skins celebrates its 25th anniversary in 2025, so will be following up with him on the other side of 2024 to find out more about the biz of niche retail.
THIBAUD CRIVELLI (MAISON CRIVELLI)
In the six years since launching in 2018, the Paris-based house founded by (and inspired by the experiences) of Thibaud Crivelli has become a niche-dom leader.
The past few years have been about extraits de parfum for the brand, such as Hibiscus Mahajád and Oud Cadenza. Will these perhaps over-shadow the appeal of some of your other, equally good fragrances in EDP concentration?
It will happen, yes, but it’s a normal situation and now we have more options for our customers. The extraits make up 80% of the sales, so it shows that we’ve found this connection – it is something that people are looking for. It also explains why, moving forward, we are only launching extraits.
What else is new?
We’ve launched candles for Hibiscus Mahajád and Oud Maracujá.
From your recent launches, which one resonates with you the most?
When I launch the fragrances, I love them, but it doesn’t mean that I would wear them. I don’t create for myself. The perfumes are inspired by stories I live, but I’m not the target.
Is that why the brand has been so successful?
Yeah, because we’ve found a very good balance between stories, originality and perfumes which are not just speaking to me, which are too abstract or too simple.
They are rich in texture and full of life. They are surprising in their originality, but they are not far-fetched.
CHRIS COLLINS (CHRIS COLLINS)
The New York-based model-turned-entrepreneur leads one of the few black-owned companies in perfumery. While I applaud him for being a pioneer, it’s the quality of the fragrances that bear his name that make him really stand out.
Apparently, Kilian Hennessy, the man behind Kilian perfumes, influenced your decision to launch your own house…
My world was in luxury and fashion. I was one of the faces of Ralph Lauren for many, many years. But my true love was always perfume. I didn’t know the whole creative process, about Grasse and Paris, and their history.
IMAGE: Ralph Lauren.
When I met Kilian about 10 years ago that changed everything because he introduced me to this world of perfume, the alchemy and mysticism. So the tagline of my fragrances is “the alchemy of fragrance”. He’s been such an incredible mentor.
We have similar styles. For example, we both love boozy notes. Of course, my interpretations are different to his. We still stay in touch.
You turned 50 recently, so a belated happy birthday. How are you feeling as you start this new decade?
Thanks, not bad for an old man [laughs]. I feel great. Most people try to hide the fact that they’re getting older; it’s a precious moment you should grasp.
To live on this planet, this number of years, and all the accomplishments, all the failures, all the pain and all the love, it all comes together and it comes into my creations. I can’t wait to be 60, but not too fast.
BENOÎT VERDIER (EX NIHILO)
With more than 10 years in the biz, the co-founder of the Paris-based house was in a reflective mood.
What would the most recent releases, Speed Legends EDP and Chandigarh Express EDP, tell us about where the maison is today?
It’s still first, in terms of inspirations, a mix of the founders Olivier Royère, myself and Sylvie Loday, our tastes and our passions in life.
For Speed Legends, it was quite a challenge for Jordi Fernández to translate the feeling of speed on skin.
Chandigarh Express is inspired by our passion for architecture, a tribute to this city in India that was created from scratch [by architect Le Corbusier], like we were created from scratch [Ex Nihilo is Latin for “out of nothing”], but at a different level. We worked with a younger perfumer, Gaël Montero, on it.
It starts from the inspirations when we create together. We like to mix the generations of perfumers we use.
We write stories, we take pictures, we do mood boards, use music and films. So maybe this is an evolution in our work, 360-degree kind of briefs, that are quite different from what we were doing 10 years ago.
You’ve used the same fragrance company since launching in 2013, Givaudan. Any particular reason for that?
It’s very immediate, very easy working with their perfumers – for example, Dalia Izem, Louise Turner, Quintin Bisch, Natalie Gracia-Cetto – and their ingredients. They have the Ex Nihilo mindset.
“To keep the consistency between all the fragrances, because now we have five collections, that is difficult.”
It’s nice to have a lot of choices, but to keep the consistency between all the fragrances, bring meaning and respect storylines, because now we have five collections, that is difficult.
The market now is all about the extrait, but you still must stay true to who you are.
STINA SEGER (BIBBI)
If the inspirations drawn from the Swede’s meditative state of mind don’t get you; the fragrances most certainly will.
Your brand is quite new and launched in 2023. Had you thought about it for a long time?
I started work on it after my first child in 2020.
Your husband, Jan Vilhelm Ahlgren, is well known for his fragrance company, Vilhelm Parfumerie. Was he an influence at all?
Of course. Because I’m in graphic design, for the concept of Vilhelm Parfumerie, we worked together, even though it’s completely Jan’s brand. He inspired me to take the next step and pushed me to do it. Support from your husband is crucial if you have smalls kids. So now he’s at home with them.
You’ve used Jérôme Epinette as your perfumer. What makes it such a good working relationship?
There’s a bit of a Scandinavian touch to his perfumes and he knows what I am looking for. Working with one perfumer is important because I want the fragrances to belong together.
If somebody was new to your brand and you had to choose just one fragrance that would epitomise what you are about, what would it be?
Ghost of Tom has notes of bergamot and black tea. It has a fresh background. And then you have the dark details. It has so many layers and it’s unisex. I know couples who share a bottle, and it takes you on a journey when you wear it. It has a veil that surrounds you, so it’s comforting.
Is your Scandinavian identity part of your fragrances?
I have my history, my dreams, so it’s there, but not in an important and obvious way. What I love about my country is the nature, the mystique of the deep forests, the northern lights and the oceans. Every country has its energy and essence with which we are born.
SIMONE ANDREOLI (SIMONE ANDREOLI)
The Italian perfumer / founder is an unashamed lover of all things sweet and tropical. But there’s more to his brand than that popular style.
You seem to go for the sweeter side of things. Is that something you particularly enjoy?
We’ve become a popular brand for tropical and exotic fragrances because I’m a traveller. I love to discover tropical paradise places, so I’ve had several trips to the Caribbean and Africa as well. This has an impact on my stylistic approach, for example, Leisure in Paradise and Malibu – Party in the Bay.
They’re a celebration of life, while in the Poetry of Night Collection, you can indulge in more transcendental, contemplative experiences.
You started in 2011. How has your style changed since then?
I started in 2011 as a fragrance creator, but the brand was born in 2014 when I was 24 years old.
So this is the 10th anniversary of the brand. Congrats!
Thank you. I never wanted to be a perfumer for another brand. I wanted to impart my own vision of creativity with my own brand. So I created fragrances which could truly embody my frame of life, my experiences around the world that are made of people, places, emotions and feelings.
Intense feelings because I’m not interested in light stuff or ordinary and trivial things.
What has been the biggest change from when you first started?
Maybe in 2017 when I released Don’t Ask Me Permission. It’s about losing yourself in the crowd of the wildest nights in Rio de Janeiro. So don’t think too much, just go with the flow and lose yourself without asking permission to experience novel feelings.
That was probably the changing spark and we started doing tropical and exotic fragrances, a first in the industry. Now, everyone is launching mangoes and passion fruits.
“I’m now focusing on creating different fragrances. Because I’m a creative nose, and I like to challenge myself.”
I’m now focusing on creating different fragrances. Because I’m a creative nose, and I like to challenge and prove myself.
For instance, Ocean of a Midnight Moon embodies the majestic strength of the sea and its profound poetry at night. It’s fresh and mineral. The aromatic part is typical of a Mediterranean environment. And then leather and driftwood. It’s structured and multi-layered.
BRAM NIESSINK (FUGAZZI)
With his work-hard, play-hard ethos, the Amsterdammer has made a name for his company and its daring approach.
What were you doing before you founded your brand?
I did my bachelor in fashion management at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute. There were long nights to hand in projects in the morning and working for deadlines. I learned a lot at that school about real life.
Let’s talk about Fugazzi Angel Dust that was created for the introverted person.
When I started the brand, it was all about the loud, outperforming the competitors, because people pay a lot of money for a perfume. I was always taking the maximum amount of oils to have the right quality and price value.
I was thinking, let’s make a molecule kind of perfume that fits more into the home setting, daily use, even when you go to bed. And I did it with one ingredient, mostly: Cashmeran. It’s a beautiful, long-lasting body scent.
If Angel Dust is your more introverted fragrance, which one would be the opposite, the extrovert?
Goudh and Sugardaddy are very loud. It’s like you can’t even wash them out of your clothes [laughs]. But they’re still likeable. That’s important to me.
Now, everyone wants to be loud and make a statement thing. Ultimately, my gut feeling has to say: we do this or we don’t do this. It’s not written by a group but, of course, we now have guidelines and a specific idea how to show the brand to the world.
How does the bottle fit into your approach?
I keep the bottle, as you can see, very boring. I learned in fashion school that marketing should last at least eight to 10 years without changing the packaging.
And your collaboration with Born To Stand Out?
I called Jun Lim [founder of the South Korean house] with FaceTime and told him I adored his brand. He loved my brand too. From that moment, we put the greatest thing together in four to five months. From the perfume to the bottle, it’s a lot of work to do something like this. It turned out to be so much fun.
Collaborations are normal in fashion, but not in perfumery. I’ve always tried to be a bit of a trendsetter. You must be creative to compete with the big firms. It’s a busy industry and there are always new brands.
GREGOR JASPERS (THE GREY)
Seeing a gap in the market for premium skincare products specific to the needs of men, the Dutchman has been helping us look our best since 2018.
You’re not a dermatologist, but looking at my skin now, what product would you recommend?
I don’t know your age, but you’re fairly wrinkle-less. You’ve got strong skin. But strong skin also comes with dull skin. You should exfoliate a bit more than you do.
Pigmentation is my thing. What would you recommend from your range for it?
This is our biggest enemy: photo-ageing and wrinkles through the sun is the worst and, of course, pigmentation of the skin. SPF is most important.
I’m going to do a routine based on your skin type. The Grey Charcoal Face Wash pulls out the dirt and is a very deep-cleansing face wash. It will also help to de-puff your under-eye area.
Then we have The Grey Exfoliating Face Scrub. The white part contains bamboo stem cells and the black pearls break open and release vitamin A for brightening your complexion. When you’re in the shower, put it on your face, for about 30 seconds. It won’t fall off, because it has a gooey texture and acts like a fast facial mask. Slowly rub your face, no pressure is needed.
IMAGE: The Grey.
If you asked me what I would take on a desert island, it’s The Grey Daily Face Protect SPF50, a very light formulation. I’m going to explain to you how we created this product.
“If you asked me what I would take on a desert island, it’s The Grey Daily Face Protect SPF50.”
We chose a chemical filter because it’s way lighter and to convince guys to use SPF daily, there don’t need to be any hurdles about whiteness or stickiness on the face. It needs to be invisible.
But some people with sensitive skin react to chemicals. So imagine the filter as small ping pong balls. We have a larger molecule, the size of a beach ball, and we put the ping pong balls inside the beach balls. In this formulation, there’s no chance of irritation, because the ping-pong balls don’t touch the skin.
IMAGE: The Grey.
These beach balls are charged positively and negatively, so they attract and then push away. In the formulation you get a very even spread of the beach balls. We use less beach balls to have SPF50. That’s a technical innovation of ours.
Find these brands at Skins stores in South Africa.
I’m good at certain things and absolutely useless at others. Regarding the latter, for example, self-promotion.
Part of the reason I could never be an influencer (I’m also too messy and idiosyncratic for it). But that doesn’t mean I can’t learn some elements of this dark art.
So here’s me with various brand founders at the recent Meet The Creators event organised by leading niche retailer Skins in Johannesburg. It was press day and I was in a press-the-flesh mood.
My next post will feature some interviews. In the meantime…
IT’S ALL ABOUT ME…
Me and Simone Andreoli (Simone Andreoli).
(This guy seems to love the camera and it loves him. Must get some tips next time.)
Me and Chris Collins (Chris Collins).
Me and Thibaud Crivelli (Maison Crivelli).
Me and Benoît Verdier (Ex Nihilo).
Me and Bram Niessink (Fugazzi).
(Yes, that’s a rip in my shirt. But the show must go on.)
Me and Jun Lim (Born To Stand Out)
(If my face looks like it’s melting in the sun, that’s because it is.)
Me and Gregor Jaspers (The Grey).
(An arty blur. But then it was held in a gallery.)
Me and Stina Seger (Bibbi).
(Yes, my eyes are closed. Having a power-nap before I move onto the next interview.)
CONCLUSION
It’s exhausting being in front of the camera all the time, I tell you. And never thought I’d hear myself saying this: hats off to those influencers who do this on a full-time basis.
Apologies to those I didn’t get time with. Before I knew it, time was up.
Never mind speed dating. This was brand dating. Next!
All the above brands are available in South Africa from Skins.
In an increasingly corporatised fragrance world (whether niche or designer), Sisley stands out for all the right reasons. Acquired by husband-and-wife Hubert and Isabelle d’Ornano in 1976, the Paris-based company’s first fragrance in 1977, Sisley Eau de Campagne EDT (also one of Jean-Claude Ellena’s earlier creations), set the tone for future releases.
IMAGE: Jean-Claude Ellena.
Almost 50 years later, there’s no doubting the central role the family play in Sisley. Hubert d’Ornano died in 2015, but Isabelle is still active in the company, with son Philippe d’Ornano, the president of Sisley; daughter Christine d’Ornano, managing director; and Daria Botin, Isabelle d’Ornano’s granddaughter, head of Sisley’s in-house creative studio.
IMAGE: Sisley.
This family approach gives Sisley a most appealing mix of continuity, eccentricity and non-conformity, which is also reflected in many of the names and inspiration of several scents.
IMAGE: Sisley.
Oud, gourmands and any other fragrance trends? Apologies, you won’t find those in the Sisley world. But what you will find is a quintessentially French approach to luxury – fragrance as an expression of culture – akin to Hermès, if you will.
The brand gets my utmost respect for not churning out perfume products several times a year, every year. This gives me the distinct impression they’re in the business of luxury for the right reasons.
Another plus: their collaborations with artists, many of whom are family friends. For example, the commissioned work of Polish sculptor Bronislaw Krzysztof was turned into the top for the bottle of Sisley Eau du Soir EDP (more on this fragrance below).
This passion for and support of the arts is reflected in their Trois-Cinq Friedland cultural programme (situated at the company HQ in Paris) and the Sisley Beaux-Arts de Paris Award for Young Creators.
And now my thoughts on some of their fragrances below:
SISLEY EAU DU SOIR EDP
One word to describe this 1990 release created by Jeannine Mongin: enchanting. But such is the beauty of this scent inspired by Isabelle d’Ornano’s childhood memories of the Alcazar Palace gardens in Spain, I’ll elaborate more.
The citric freshness via grapefruit and mandarin orange makes way for a bouquet that showcases the richness of the white floral syringa. Rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang are in the floral mix too, with black pepper spicing it up and juniper laying on the fresh aromatics. Oakmoss (pushed to the legal max) and patchouli bring earthy woodiness to the drydown, with musk completing this sensual treat.
It’s old school and timeless at the same time. Which means I can’t get enough of it.
SISLEY SOIR D’ORIENT EDP
The use of the term “orient” is now flagged as a “sensitive geopolitical reference”, according to my Microsoft review feature. This could be problematic for a whole genre in perfumery which relies on the use of this word to conjure all sorts of olfactory imagery.
Fortunately, there’s no problem whatsoever with this 2015 release created by Olivier Pescheux.
It’s all about a silky Turkish rose infused with the smoke of incense and warm spiciness of black pepper and saffron. What’s that greenery lurking in the background? It’s galbanum treated with admirable restraint. The aromatics of geranium makes an appearance, too, and then settles with creamy sandalwood and musky patchouli.
An oriental, indubitably, in a super-sophisticated style that reminds me just how good a perfumer Pescheux was before his untimely death in 2023.
SISLEY L’EAU RÊVÉE D’HUBERT EDT
From the Les Eaux Rêvées Collection (launched in 2023 and inspired by the various generations of the family), this Alexis Dadier creation is everything I want a green fragrance to be: fresh, sharp and uncompromising.
The initial greenery is expressed through a number of herbal notes: mint, buchu (the South African plant) and shiso (the Japanese mint). As the fresh spiciness softens, the aromatics of geranium (almost grassy) comes through, with dry woodiness from papyrus. The woodiness continues through to the drydown featuring earthy notes of oakmoss and patchouli. It’s almost fizzy. Perhaps the listed Ambroxan at work?
If you’re new to greens, be warned: this EDT will be too much for you.
SISLEY L’EAU RÊVÉE D’IKAR EDT
After the sharpness of Sisley L’Eau Rêvée d’Hubert, this one may seem relatively subdued. I’m glad I stuck with it, as it has its own abundant merits and more complexity.
Starting softly with fresh citrus notes of lemon and bitter orange, it builds up to resinous, almost waxy mastic (also known as lentisque), with iris softening the edges with a teeny-weeny hint of sweetness in the background. The drydown is earthy in character, courtesy of vetiver and labdanum, but isn’t heavy.
A Vincent Ricord creation that reveals elegantly sniff-me nuances with each wearing.
DID YOU KNOW?
* Sisley was originally co-founded by Jean-Francois Laporte (of L’Artisan Parfumeur and Maître Parfumeur et Gantier) fame.
* According to Forbes.com, before acquiring Sisley, Hubert d’Ornano launched Orlane with his father and brother in 1953, which they sold in 1968. Hubert’s grandfather Guillaume co-founded Lancôme in 1935 and sold his shares in the 1950s.
* Sisley is highly regarded for its premium skincare, make-up and hair products, and luxury spas in destinations such as Paris, London, Milan, Mykonos, Doha and Mauritius.
* Isabelle d’Ornano gave access to writer Christiane de Nicolaÿ-Mazery and photographer Christina Vervitsioti-Missoffe to capture her living and work spaces for the coffee-table book, What a Beautiful World!: The Designed Spaces of Isabelle d’Ornano (Abrams, 2022).
IMAGE: Christina Vervitsioti-Missoffe.
Sisley fragrances are available in South Africa from selected Woolworths, Arc and Edgars stores.
