The fragrances that appeal most to me often invite me to slow down to appreciate their nuances and qualities. Der Duft Playground is one of those perfumes.
Maybe because of its name, I was expecting this 2025 release from the German brand and its founder, Anselm Skogstad, to be noisier and more obviously attention-grabbing. (Note to self: don’t be so literal, Richard. In this case, “the playground” – and the inspiration of freedom it brings – is in the mind.)
And come to think of it, other releases I’ve tried from the house have also been distinctive but discreet. Not a contradiction. Actually, a compliment.
Der Duft Playground starts out grassy to me. Interesting that the official note from the Der Duft website for this is honeydew melon, for which Google AI Overview tells me “some people also perceive a subtle, grassy undertone”. Bergamot adds to the freshness with its citric tones.
Soft fruity-aquatics mingle with the optimistic white floracly of tiaré and jasmine, while lily-of-the-valley imparts cleanliness. The synthetic Cashmeran (listed here as “cashmere wood”) often proclaims its fuzzy presence, but here it’s more about its subtle contribution to the warmth of a modern amber accord, with musks in support.
Apart from the initial grassiness, none of these afore-mentioned notes jumps out and says, “Look and smell me!” They blend in a way to create a whole that’s all quite gentle and soothing.
‘I’m happy to go with the more low-key version I’m getting in our still-quite-warm autumn’
I suspect Der Duft Playground will ping more in the heat of peak Johannesburg summer. But for now, I’m happy to go with the more low-key version I’m getting in our still-quite-warm autumn.
From the name (“the scent” in German) to the bottle, packaging and website description, The Der Duft aesthetic is minimalist. But that doesn’t mean I’m not getting much enjoyment from this fragrance, especially at bedtime.
Buy Der Duft Playground from the Der Duft website. Read my 2021 Anselm Skogstad interview here.
I’m sure many of us have fantasised some time or another about owning our own perfume store. The ambience, the brands we’d stock, how we’d do things differently… Well, Philip Hillege did just that in 2000 with Skins Cosmetics (shortened to Skins in 2024) when he and his business partner at the time, Michiel Poelmans, pioneered niche fragrance and skincare in the Netherlands.
Twenty-five years later, the original store in the “9 Streets” shopping area of Amsterdam’s Runstraat is well on its way to expanding to 16 in the Netherlands, three in Belgium and two in Germany. This major spurt in expansion is thanks to an injection of capital from Vendis Capital.
FIRST IN STORE: The OG Skins in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. IMAGE: Skins NL.
I’m based in Johannesburg, South Africa, where I’ve got to know Skins through its franchise deal with African Sales Company. Starting out with one store in Sandton City shopping mall in 2016, the local Skins tally now stands at six stores, with another four to five to follow in the future, according to Philip Hillege.
I got to see creative director Philip Hillege when he was in Johannesburg last year as part of the local contingent’s Meet the Creators event. But as it was all a bit of a whirlwind, we set aside time at a later stage for a proper interview.
FOUNDERS: Philip Hillege at the Skins Meet The Creators event in Johannesburg in 2024.
Here, Philip Hillege talks about 25th anniversary plans, how the market has changed in the last quarter century, how they select brands for the Skins portfolio and why large investment was necessary for the growth of the business.
AS IF ROLLING OUT MORE STORES THIS YEAR ISN’T ENOUGH, DO YOU HAVE ANYTHING ELSE PLANNED?
In what has become a tradition over the last five years, every year we launch a collaboration with a brand creating our own product, which also carries the Skins name.
IMAGE: Skins NL.
So, in June, we will be launching a collaboration with Juliette Has A Gun. We’ve been involved with this brand from day one. Now, they are a very big brand. The previous perfume collaborations have been with relatively smaller brands. So, yeah, a very ambitious project. It’s a matter of trust and friendship that we do this kind of thing.
COLLABORATION: The Skins and Philip Hillege relationship with Juliette Has A Gun founder Romano Ricci goes back almost 20 years. IMAGE: Say Who.
Also, we’re planning to launch body, home and fragrance products under our own Skins name, since the collaborations with Skins have been so successful and people trust us.
We’ve set up a separate team for that. I’m not sure if we will launch this year because a lot of testing must be done with stability tests, etc. We’re still in a process of developing the perfume.
YOU DON’T WANT TO RUSH INTO SOMETHING LIKE THIS BECAUSE IT OBVIOUSLY WILL CARRY THE SKINS NAME. SO YOU WANT IT TO BE AS GOOD AS IT CAN POSSIBLY BE BEFORE YOU LAUNCH…
Exactly, because we don’t make concessions. We will develop these products together with great perfumers of brands in our network. We will never take some formula off the shelf, so working on the formula and the texture is a big process.
“We will never take some formula off the shelf, so working on the formula and the texture is a big process” – Philip Hillege
GOING BACK TO WHEN YOU LAUNCHED IN NOVEMBER 2000, HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE MARKET THEN?
The market was very saturated, and still is, especially in our small country, the Netherlands, with department and drug stores selling the same brands and all about discounts.
IMAGE: Laura Mercier.
We were ambitious and I shall always make a little joke that the word “disruptor” was invented in 2001. We were a disruptor at the time in 2000, and it was our plan to shake up the market with brands which were all new to the Dutch market.
Aesop from Australia was one of the first of the seven brands of our portfolio. Laura Mercier was a few years on the market in the US. We made a list of cool brands with dedicated founders on board, which had a different mission and distribution. For example, Frédéric Malle.
We saw a new movement starting, also on service. In the Netherlands, all shops closed at six o’clock, and I was in my first job after studying at the Dutch company Herome Cosmetics.
When you wanted to go shopping, it would have to be on the weekend, because you worked from nine to six during the week. So we said we will open seven days a week, which was, at that time, rare, and until eight o’clock in the evening.
BUILDING CUSTOMER LOYALTY IS SO IMPORTANT IN THE RETAIL ENVIRONMENT. HOW DID YOU GO ABOUT THAT?
Salespeople working in a cosmetics store are pushed by targets for brands. Every week, there’s a different promotion. If you walked into a perfumery store, you would be pushed to that brand. So I knew that people would never get honest advice. And we always said from day one to all our team members, give personal advice, see what the customer likes.
Give them samples if they want to test it first, no pressure to buy because the buying pressure in our market was always buy now, get this discount or whatever.
“The customer loyalty from honest advice is one of the key factors in our service”
The customer loyalty from honest advice is one of the key factors in our service. Sometimes brands want to send a promotion girl for the weekend from Paris. But we don’t do that because it will send a wrong message to our customers, of pushing only that brand.
The thing we do in our stores are the events with the brand founders. These founders sometimes visit us for a weekend and then they are in the shop. Yeah, that’s fine. Even when we grow bigger and 25 years later, we really want to stay close to our DNA.
BENOIT ET MOI: Me and Ex Nihilo co-founder Benoît Verdier at the brand’s event in the Skins flagship store in Sandton City, Johannesburg.
IN THE 25 YEARS YOU’VE BEEN IN BUSINESS NOW, WHAT HAS BEEN THE BIGGEST CHANGE IN THE MARKET?
When we started niche was so small and the brands in our portfolio sometimes had 150 to 200 points of sale globally. Now maybe they have 1 000 points of sale globally, but I would say Chanel has 3 000 in France. So still very small.
The biggest change is the shift in the consumer’s mind. People really want something different from the well-known brands. If I look at youngsters, you have girls and boys of 15 years of age in our shop looking for cool perfumes, like a status symbol similar to sneakers 10 years ago. People are more and more open to brands with a real story. You see that with everything.
If I look at the beer market 25 years ago in our country, it was Heineken and a few other big brands. Now, there’s 80 different small beer brands.
“There’s a picture of the farmer on the cheese. It’s like Frédéric Malle who started with a picture of the perfumer in the year 2000”
Even look at cheese. In the Netherlands, we’re a cheese country. There were always little artisan cheese shops. And in the supermarket, you had the supermarket cheese. But now in our supermarket, there’s a picture of the farmer on the cheese. It’s like Frédéric Malle who started with a picture of the perfumer in the year 2000.
THERE’S BEEN A LOT OF BLURRING BETWEEN NICHE AND DESIGNER BRANDS IN RECENT YEARS. DO YOU THINK “NICHE” STILL HAS MEANING OR IS IT NOW MORE ABOUT “LUXURY”?
The word “niche” is not at this moment the right word anymore.
I always talk now more about artisanal perfumery because there’s so many big groups in the sector. If you go to the Esxence perfume fair in Milan, where I’m a member of the selection committee, there’s 600 applications and 400 places available.
NAME GAME: Philip Hillege thinks the term “niche” is outdated with all the changes in the sector.
TALKING ABOUT SELECTING, HOW DO YOU GO ABOUT CHOOSING BRANDS FOR YOUR SKINS PORTFOLIO?
We have a committee of six people analysing new options from 60 to 70 brands every month. We really try to get down to the founders and if the brand story is good.
”We have a committee of six people analysing new options from 60 to 70 brands every month”
And if the passion of the founder is there, because the counter reaction is that you see so many brands without a soul and with an empty concept. Luckily, there’s every year new founders from whom we do see the real passion. But it’s getting increasingly difficult.
Sometimes, a bigger group can buy the brand. But if the soul of the brand is still there and if they don’t go, suddenly, mass distribution, then we will keep the brand.
HAVE THERE EVER BEEN TIMES WHEN YOU WORRIED ABOUT THE SURVIVAL OF THE BUSINESS?
No, luckily not. Because we’ve always had growth, even there was a big economic crisis in Europe in 2008 and 2009 and we saw many customers losing their jobs. But we also saw new customers in our shop every day.
The hardest thing sometimes is cash-flow management, though. Because when you’re a growing company, the business requires a lot of capital. And the stock of a new brand, you always must prepay first. Our collection of brands is always expanding.
Building a new store, we never choose any cheaper alternatives. It’s almost a one-million-euro investment for one new store.
Now we have a very good structure with very smart financial people. And I have the nicest cash-flow sheets in Excel. But in the early days, it was my little notes and I had to do the financial planning myself without a good CFO. And it could happen sometimes that I could not pay myself a salary for three or four months. Because first is the staff, then the suppliers, then the landlords and tax.
So, of course, there have been moments sometimes when I had to hold my breath.
YOU DON’T HAVE TO MENTION NAMES, BUT THERE MUST BE QUITE A FEW EXAMPLES OF BRANDS THAT YOU THOUGHT WOULD DO WELL IN SKINS BUT DIDN’T SUCCEED IN THE END?
Yeah, of course. Every brand we select and launch, we want to always be in our collection, because our goal is long-term partnerships, like Diptyque, Aesop, Laura Mercier or Creed.
But sometimes you launch a brand, do a press day, activities, all the stuff from your marketing calendar and training, and you see after, say, two years, the customer’s not buying it in the end.
Then it’s very difficult to call the brand owner to say, “Sorry, you know, I like you as a person, we’ve tried everything, but the brand is not selling.” That I would say is the most difficult thing and is a learning along the way.
AND THEN YOU GET EXAMPLES OF BRANDS THAT DO WELL IN SKINS IN THE NETHERLANDS BUT NOT NECESSARILY IN SOUTH AFRICA…
Yes, for example, our Skins Boxes are a huge success both in the Netherlands and South Africa. People love them.
To buy these boxes with all the gift-with-purchase sizes and with a good deal of value, we always see a lot of traction after we launch them, with certain perfumes hitting the charts in the Netherlands and doing nothing in South Africa.
BEST-SELLERS: The Skins Boxes are hugely popular in the Netherlands and South Africa and reveal different preferences in these markets, according to Philip Hillege. IMAGE: Skins NL.
YOU’VE HAD MAJOR INVESTMENT RECENTLY IN THE BUSINESS. AT WHAT STAGE DID IT BECOME NECESSARY TO GO THAT ROUTE?
I started the business with Michiel Poelmans as a 50-50 partnership in terms of shares. After 10 years, he moved to America with a new wife and to start a new life, then I had another investor, a friend whose father invested the first loan into Skins. And along the way, until 2023, I was lucky in my network to have five friends who were also entrepreneurs and had cash to invest.
“I wanted to go to Germany because brands in our portfolio were all saying we have such a hard time finding the right partners there”
I saw so much potential in the market of opening more than one store per year. We needed more cash to go faster. I wanted to open five or six stores a year, and I wanted to go to Germany because many brands in our portfolio were all saying we have such a hard time finding the right partners there.
IMAGE: Skins NL.
As mentioned previously, building one new store takes, like, a million euros, cash, and then it’s dead cash because part stock and part just your interior, it takes a long time to earn it back.
I started thinking, how should we do this? We needed growth money, but retail and banks are a difficult mix, because retail is about bankruptcy in the news in the last few years, with many chains going bankrupt because of the Internet and changing consumer behaviour.
EXPANSION: The new store in Antwerp, Belgium, is part of the growth partnership with Vendis Capital, says Philip Hillege. IMAGE: Skins NL.
The only thing was to find an investor partner, so we worked with a speciality firm who seek investors. We had a good interest of 20 parties, which was a lot, even to the surprise of the advisory company.
We had many, many talks and really had the luxury of choosing the right partner, Vendis Capital, who we’ve worked with now for over a year. In the past we could only open one store per year. Since the entrance of Vendis as partner, our goal is eight to 10 stores per year divided over the Netherlands (the plan is around 20 in this country), Belgium and Germany.
IMAGE: Skins NL.
Vendis also provide us with lots of people. The right people.
WHAT DO YOU MEAN?
You have to imagine that all these 25 years, I was the one standing on the construction floor with the construction company [laughs], realising the show.
Really time consuming. Now we have a team of experienced builders to help with this. Also on finance, software development.
IMAGE: Skins NL.
ARE YOUR PREVIOUS INVESTORS STILL INVOLVED?
In the end, investment companies only want shareholders on board who work in the company, not shareholders with a passive role. They cannot carry too many silent investors. So my friend investors had to exit, too.
Now we have Vendis, Claudia Pouw-Dullaart the CEO, me and the management team as the shareholders. South Africa is a separate entity.
DO YOUR STAFF HAVE SHARES IN THE BUSINESS?
Yes, we have a separate part of the shares for staff, so they can also invest with their own personal savings.
It’s all very strict with tax rules, so we cannot give them any bonuses. It must come from their own savings. It’s a great way to have staff involved beyond obviously getting paid well or that kind of thing.
OPEN FOR BUSINESS: Staff celebrate the opening of the Skins store in Amersfoort, the Netherlands, in February 2025. Philip Hillege says staff have the opportunity to buy company shares too. IMAGE: Skins NL.
YOU SAID AT THE START OF OUR CALL YOU’RE GOING ON A BREAK TOMORROW WITH YOUR FAMILY. WILL YOU SWITCH OFF PROPERLY, OR ARE YOU GOING TO TAKE WORK WITH YOU?
I always carry my laptop, which I don’t mind. It’s my rhythm for the last 25 years. I have a nice holiday when I don’t open my laptop with a thousand emails [laughs]. So I just keep up a little bit. One hour a day maximum.
If you went shopping at a niche retailer, you could be forgiven for thinking that niche must be synonymous with big spending. And there are certainly many examples of that. But Essential Parfums proves otherwise.
Perhaps because the French brand founded by Géraldine Archambault in 2018 keeps concentrations at the lower end of the EDP spectrum, Essential Parfums keeps costs lower too.
MORE FOR LESS: Géraldine Archambault, the founder of Essential Parfums. IMAGE: Essential Parfums.
The house provides quality, distinctiveness and creativity at a most attractive price that’s even cheaper than many designer brands. When I saw the price on a bottle when I first started getting into the house, I thought it must be a mistake. But no, I’ll adopt that dreadful phrase, it is what it is. Even with our hideous exchange rate. (They’ve just gone the extrait de parfum route with Bois Impérial. Also very reasonably priced.)
My quick thoughts on some Essential Parfums releases below.
Every now and then one I come across a fragrance that reminds me why I love a raw material so much. This 2023 release is one of those perfumes.
Patchouli can be described as earthy, chocolate-y, woody and spicy, and all those qualities are brought out here, along with some ambergris muskiness via the synthetic Cetalox.
While earthy, it’s not dirty. Perhaps due to perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin’s use of the dsm-firmenich captive molecule Clearwood.
ESSENTIAL PARFUMS ROSE MAGNETIC EDP (SOPHIE LABBÉ)
Sophie Labbé enhances the fruitiness of the queen of florals with litchi in this 2018 release.
The sharpness of grapefruit and freshness of mint tempers the sweetness of vanilla, with clean musks in sensual attendance.
The 2018 Bruno Jovanovic creation Mon Vetiver is just that. My (kind of) vetiver.
The soft smokiness of Haitian vetiver meets the sharp freshness of juniper berry, lime and gentian. There’s woody muskiness from the synthetic Cashmeran, while patchouli enhances the earthiness of the title note.
It all adds up to produce a vetiver scent that’s easy on the nose and the pocket.
ESSENTIAL PARFUMS THE MUSC EDP (CALICE BECKER)
Created by Calice Becker, The Musc (2018) sees the Givaudan captive molecule musk Nirvanolide faceted with the fresh spiciness of ginger, floral tones of lavandin and sophisticated sweetness of beeswax.
Australian sandalwood brings woody creaminess to the seemingly simple composition. The result: powdery distinctiveness with contrasts of freshness and warmth.
Before Olivier Pescheux died in 2023, he created gems like this 2019 release. It’s everything I want a vanilla-centric fragrance to be: warm, spicy, cosy, creamy, not too sweet.
The woodiness in the mix, courtesy of cedar, ups the appeal. Although lots of effort must have gone into its creation, it doesn’t try too hard to please.
The title note comes to life with the bright citrus of mandarin orange and clementine in this 2022 creation.
There’s more freshness from notes of freesia and mandarin orange, with complexity from black tea and sandalwood. I always feel calmer when I wear it.
ESSENTIAL PARFUMS ORANGE X SANTAL EDP (NATALIE GRACIA-CETTO)
Let’s do some fragrance arithmetic, shall we?
Orange x santal = Yes, yes please.
There’s a most pleasing contrast of sweet and sour in the opening of this 2018 release. There’s also fresh aromatics from basil and cypress. Sustainably sourced Australian sandalwood brings on the creaminess in the drydown, with a touch of earthy oakmoss. The price, as with all releases from this company, also makes me a happy boy.
ESSENTIAL PARFUMS BOIS IMPERIAL EDP (QUENTIN BISCH)
Is it? Or isn’t it? And does it really matter?
There’s more than enough online discussion about the similarities between Essential Parfums Bois Impérial EDP and Marc-Antoine Barrois Encelade*, both created by Quentin Bisch. So I won’t get bogged down in that debate here.
First, there’s the citric spiciness of Nepalese timut pepper absolute mingling with the clove-ish tones of Thai basil in this 2020 release.
The highly accomplished perfumer then goes down the woody path with a combo of captive molecules from Givaudan (the fragrance company he works for) – Akigalawood (upcycled patchouli) and Georgywood (cedarwood) – and the earthiness of Indonesian patchouli. A good helping of Ambrofix gives it muskiness and staying power.
This is what I call a shape-shifter. Despite its seeming simplicity on paper, it reveals different facets with each wearing. Sometimes fresh and breezy, other times deep and spicy and then silky, almost ISO E Super-ish. But always intriguing and rewarding.
*For the record: it’s similar. And it isn’t. Hope that helps.
Essential Parfums are available in South Africa from Skins.
What is happiness? Don’t worry, I’m not about to get all existential on you. Yet. In this case, I’m talking about happy fragrances that make me feel good when I wear them. Essential in our increasingly nasty world and sometimes the turbulence of my own inner world.
In fragrance-land, unsurprisingly there’s a whole happy genre now, with some spelling it out for us. I’m thinking of the rather good Clinique Happy and Chopard Happy ranges.
If fragrance is about emotions and feelings and upliftment is what I’m after, then this selection is guaranteed to put me in a good mood. I normally preach the virtues of giving a fragrance time to develop to truly appreciate it, but these work for me from the get-go and provide a hit of instant gratification. Not very spiritually enlightened, I know… But you get the point.
ESSENTIAL PARFUMS ORANGE X SANTAL EDP* (NATALIE GRACIA-CETTO)
Let’s do some fragrance arithmetic, shall we?
Orange x santal = Yes, yes please.
There’s a most pleasing contrast of sweet and sour in the opening of this 2018 release from the French niche brand. There’s also fresh aromatics from basil and cypress. Sustainably sourced Australian sandalwood brings on the creaminess in the drydown, with a touch of earthy oakmoss. The price, as with all releases from this company, also makes me a happy boy.
NUXE PRODIGIEUX FLORAL LE PARFUM EDP
The French pharmacy brand might be better known for their skincare products. But their fragrances are pretty good too. For example, this 2021 release.
There’s some lovely citric freshness in the opening from grapefruit. The freshness keeps coming with the lemon-ish floral note of magnolia and clean musk.
If you want to go all out, you can treat your skin (and nose) to the equally good Huile Prodigieuse Florale, the multipurpose oil for face, body and hair.
GOLDFIELD & BANKS BOHEMIAN LIME EDP* (CARINE CERTAIN BOIN)
When the heat hits (as it often does in Johannesburg, even in winter), there’s only one thing to do. Apply Goldfield & Banks Bohemian Lime EDP.
Australian finger lime zings with zesty freshness, supported by the spiciness of coriander and earthiness of vetiver. What this 2020 creation for the Australian niche brand lacks in complexity, it more than compensates with its uplifting moreish-ness.
*These happy fragrances available in South Africa from Skins.
Almost 10 years after it was released in 2016, Gucci Intense Oud EDP remains one of my favourite ouds, designer or otherwise.
Who cares if it’s real oud or not. Aurélien Guichard knows how to create an effective semblance of the precious ingredient through the skilful work he brings to his own brand, Matiere Premiere, and others. He’s the man behind oud standouts such as Robert Piguet Oud EDP (2012) and Matiere Premiere Oud Seven EDP (2021).
IMAGE: Matiere Premiere.
From the bottle to the scent, Gucci Intense Oud EDP is solid stuff. It gets going with the slight fruitiness of raspberry and pear notes. The perfumer makes the most of the inherent fruitiness of frankincense while also taking it in a woody spicy direction, with soft hints of rose and orange blossom in the background. The oud effect is subtle but noticeable, with earthiness from patchouli and animalic leather adding to the warmth.
While wearable, accessible and versatile, it also manages to convey something mysterious, exotic and, dare I say it, oriental (now flagged as a sensitive geopolitical reference when I use Microsoft Word Editor to check my document). That’s an impressive balancing act.
If you’re looking for a challenging barnyard oud, Gucci Intense Oud EDP ain’t it. But if you’re looking for something commercial with quality, this is it.
It’s one of those fragrances that make me think when designer brands get it right, they can’t be beat (another fragrance from the Italian designer brand, Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Homme EDP immediately comes to mind). Take that, niche snobs. Ha! Ha!
It looks like it has been discontinued but is still widely available online and even in some stores for a most reasonable price.
Of all the florals at a perfumer’s disposal, tuberose is probably the most potent, intoxicating and divisive. Depending on how it’s used, tuberose fragrances can range from the green and fresh to the downright exotic and erotic.
There was a time when the white floral was synonymous with the forbidden and all sorts of carnality. Young women, especially, might be led astray if exposed to the temptations of tuberose at night.
Originally from Mexico, it is now mainly grown in India, Egypt and France. Tuberose absolute is expensive to produce so perfumers will sometimes use a mix of naturals and synthetics to produce a similar effect.
These are some of my favourite tuberose fragrances, from the classics to more recent releases, in a variety of styles and budgets.
Are tuberose fragrances a “yes” or a “no” for you?
ROBERT PIGUET FRACAS EDP (GERMAINE CELLIER)
There are several classic tuberose fragrances on the market, including Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower EDP and Diptyque Do Son EDT. However, Robert Piguet Fracas remains the benchmark against which all others are measured. It was inducted into the Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2006.
Tuberose is known for its intensity and this EDP, which was launched in 1948, takes it to the max in a most elegant way. Peach and orange blossom notes stand out in the opening, but tuberose takes pride of place in the floral heart of the fragrance, which also includes notes of jasmine, gardenia, osmanthus and narcissus. The sensuality of the tuberose is masterfully complemented by the base notes of sandalwood and musk.
Madonna took major inspiration from Fracas for the creation of her rather good 2012 fragrance debut, Truth or Dare EDP.
GIORGIO BEVERLY HILLS EDT (BOB ALIANO)
The debut fragrance from the designer fashion boutique that put LA’s Rodeo Drive on the luxe shopping map was launched in 1981 with a mega-bash suitable for the so-called “decade of excess”.
From the first spray, with its flourish of sweet orange blossom and peach, and even in its current formulation, it’s unapologetically big. Some might even say it’s brash and ostentatious. Apparently, it was even banned from restaurants due to its overpowering style.
Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT is really about its flamboyant florals, with tuberose, gardenia and jasmine leading the opulent white florals charge. Ylang-ylang also makes a fruity appearance. The overall effect is wonderfully optimistic and uplifting. There’s a lot happening in the drydown. But I can pick out a pleasurable blend of oakmoss, sandalwood and vanilla notes.
More than four decades later and several changes in ownership later, don’t let its banishment to the budget shelves put you off it.
GIVENCHY AMARIGE EDT (DOMINIQUE ROPION)
This 1991 classic has aged well and still makes a powerful statement. Created by legendary master perfumer Dominique Ropion, it’s one of those big, complex and busy compositions. So I won’t claim to be able to detect all the notes.
There’s a fruity opening, courtesy of notes of peach and plum. Orange blossom adds to the luxe vibe. The sumptuous heart is all about florals, especially tuberose and mimosa, their green qualities brought to the fore. The abundant warmth radiates through to the drydown where tonka bean, sandalwood and vanilla stand out.
While this scent is sweet from start to finish, it’s never cloying. I’m talking supreme sophistication here.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR LA CHASSE AUX PAPILLONS EDT* (ANNE FLIPO)
While perfume is not going to solve the world’s problems, it is a reminder of the beauty to be found in it. I’m all for a floral lift and the wonderfully named La Chasse aux Papillons does just that in such a charming way (it’s inspired by childhood memories of chasing butterflies).
Launched in 1999, this EDT is a straight-up bouquet of white flowers that includes jasmine, orange blossom and especially tuberose. The latter is light and bright, not intoxicating and animalic.
Softly sweet, this enchanting scent is guaranteed to put a smile on your face whenever you wear it.
DIPTYQUE DO SON EDT* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)
Inspired by Diptyque co-founder Yves Coueslant’s memories of his childhood in Do Son, Vietnam (then Indochina), this 2005 release from the Paris-based niche brand captures the idea of the special smell of tuberoses wafting on the sea breeze in a beautifully evocative style.
Orange blossom stands out in the intro, with its fresh and sunny sweetness. Its animalic qualities are further developed by the spicy take on tuberose, while jasmine adds to the overall depth. A subtle marine mood is discernible in the background. The warmth of summer is carried through to the drydown, where notes of benzoin and musk are in play.
The 2013 EDP version is also worthy of your attention.
NISHANE TUBERÓZA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (JORGE LEE)
A 2014 release from the Istanbul-based niche brand’s Blossom Collection, Tuberóza opens in bright and light mode, with notes of ylang-ylang and orange blossom.
When the tuberose from Mexico (where it originates from) takes centre stage (can it be any other way?), it’s more fruity than animalic. Gardenia and marigold strengthen the floral ambience. The drydown sees the synthetic Amberwood, all musky woodiness, in combo with creamy sandalwood.
This extrait is a surprisingly uplifting take on the genre. The diva is so charming and warm, no wonder all the other actors are more than happy to lend their support.
MEMO MARFA EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)
The Paris-based niche brand doesn’t just produce some of the best leather fragrances in the biz through their Cuirs Nomades Collection; it also has some superb florals to sniff out.
A 2016 release from the Fleurs Bohèmes Collection, this EDP is quite a streamlined affair by Memo standards and captures the nocturnal heat of its desert city inspiration with creative flair.
Notes of orange blossom and mandarin orange create a suitably warm ambience. Luxuriously creamy tuberose absolute is given more sensual heat with oil of ylang-ylang and its fruity characteristics. An agave accord adds a touch of earthy greenery. The drydown keeps the creaminess going with sandalwood oil, vanilla and musk.
The bottle with its all-seeing eye design is gorgeous too.
Some franchises are more rewarding than others. Since the 2018 re-launch of L’Interdit Givenchy (the original Givenchy L’Interdit was created for Audrey Hepburn in the 1950s), I’ve learned to put any purist tendencies where they belong – in the past.
The range has been proceeding at a steady pace, with a new interpretation every year. L’Interdit EDP Rouge (2021) is my favourite so far. The sexy bottle got my attention first. The scent did the rest.
The opening is all spicy warmth, with notes of ginger, blood orange and pimento leaf. Floral notes of jasmine and orange blossom increase the sensual vibe. Although not officially listed, there’s definitely some animalic tuberose lurking in the bouquet. Creamy sandalwood and spicy patchouli feature in the drydown.
Bloody good stuff, I say.
CHOPARD SPARKLING LOVE EDP (DORA BAGHRICHE)
As we all know, tuberose can be heavy and domineering at the best of times. And that style certainly has its place.
But if I’m looking for a lighter but still distinctive take on the theme, the 2023 release from the Swiss luxury jewellery brand, Chopard Sparkling Love EDP, will do very nicely indeed.
As its name will tell you, Dora Baghriche gives the white floral an effervescent lift with freshness from notes of mandarin and orange and sunny fruitiness from osmanthus and ylang-ylang.
The fruitiness continues into the drydown with Helvetolide, the dsm-firmenich synthetic musk known for its sophisticated smoothness.
GABRIELLE CHANEL L’EAU EDT (OLIVIER POLGE)
While its predecessors, Gabrielle Chanel EDP (2017) and Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP (2019), are more voluptuous tuberose fragrances, the 2024 flanker, Gabrielle Chanel L’Eau EDT, is well worth checking out in its own right if you’re looking for something subtle.
The initial berry fruitiness leads to a floral bouquet of jasmine, ylang-ylang, orange blossom and Grasse tuberose. While dialling down the tuberose, in-house perfumer Olivier Polge takes it in a green and fresh direction, with creamy sandalwood in the drydown completing it.
It’s lighter than the above-mentioned versions. But there’s more than enough character here to keep you coming back for more.
*These tuberose fragrances available in South Africa at Skins.
Looking for proof that perfumery is both a scientific and creative endeavour? Then allow me to introduce you to Nadège Le Garlantezec. The Paris-based perfumer combines both worlds in various creations (see below) with what I’ll call a distinctive “scent-sitivity”.
+ Boucheron Quatre EDP (2015)
+ Ex Nihilo Devil Tender EDP (2016)
+ Liquides Imaginaires Île Pourpre EDP (2016)
+ Jovan Tropical Musk For Him Cologne (2017)
+ L’Occitane en Provence Terre de Lumière EDP (2017)
+ Coach Floral EDP (2018)
+ Rochas Mademoiselle Rochas EDT (2018)
+ Lancôme Idôle EDP (2019)
+ Valentino Donna Born In Roma Coral Fantasy EDP (2022)
+ Ex Nihilo Vesper Glitz EDP (2023)
+ Memo Inverness EDP (2023)
+ Tommy Hilfiger Impact Together EDT (2024)
After completing her chemistry and perfumery studies, Nadège Le Garlantezec joined Givaudan. She’s currently a senior perfumer in the Paris-based fine fragrance team of the Swiss fragrance and flavour company.
Earlier creations of Nadège Le Garlantezec include Eutopie No 6 EDP (2013) and Oriflame Imagination EDT (2014). More recently, in 2022, the career of Nadège Le Garlantezec hit a personal high with Prada Paradoxe.
IMAGE: Givaudan.
WHEN YOU STARTED STUDYING CHEMISTRY AT UNIVERSITY, WERE YOU ALREADY PASSIONATE ABOUT THE WORLD OF PERFUMERY?
Yes, my passion for perfumery was already deeply rooted when I started my studies in chemistry. I chose this path, convinced it was the best way to achieve my dream of becoming a perfumer. This realisation inspired me to pursue my goal wholeheartedly. Chemistry was not always easy, but as soon as I was able to connect it with perfumery, everything changed.
“This connection between synesthesia and perfumery has been essential in my career as a perfumer.” – Nadège Le Garlantezec
I began to mentally visualise scents and develop synesthesias, which allowed me to create. This connection between synesthesia and perfumery has been essential in nurturing my passion and propelling me towards my career as a perfumer.
WHAT DID YOUR EDUCATION AT ISIPCA GIVE YOU?
What struck me the most during this experience were the exceptional encounters with perfumers, as well as the enriching exchanges and the bonds formed with my classmates, who are now valuable friends in the field.
This class of passionate individuals endures and we continue to come together to share our common love for perfumery. ISIPCA confirmed to me that I had my place in the perfumery world.
WHAT WAS YOUR DEBUT AND WHAT DO YOU THINK OF IT NOW?
My first project was the creation of a scented candle. It was an incredible experience, as I was able to see a project take shape and be commercialised. It’s quite an amazing feeling.
Looking back, I feel immense pride in having created something tangible in the realm of olfaction that touched people beyond my family and friends. I still hold onto that sense of wonder, convinced that I will have succeeded in my career if I can maintain that same emotion every day.
HOW DO YOU START YOUR DAY?
My days start in a varied way, without a fixed routine. I listen to my emotions and needs, which allows me to adapt my workplace. This flexibility is essential in a profession where creativity must be nourished by the inspiration of the moment.
IMAGE: L’Occitane en Provence.
YOU CO-CREATED NARCISO RODRIGUEZ NARCISO ROUGE EDP (2018) AND NARCISO ROUGE EDT (2019) WITH YOUR GIVAUDAN COLLEAGUE SONIA CONSTANT. WHAT STOOD OUT FOR YOUR DURING THOSE PROJECTS?
Working on Narciso Rouge was a significant experience, especially because it was one of my first forays into the European market. What struck me particularly was the creative freedom we had to introduce a fruity note into a traditionally musky range.
HOW DOES LANCÔME IDÔLE EDP (2019) AND ITS VARIOUS FLANKERS REPRESENT YOUR CREATIVE AND TECHNICAL APPROACH?
The original idea for Lancôme Idôle EDP was proposed by Shyamala Maisondieu, who focused on a universal scent, that of cleanliness.
Our collaboration with Shyamala Maisondieu and Adriana Medina aimed to transform this powerful and technical accord into an ultra-feminine and floral fragrance, while remaining true to the essence of the Lancôme brand and the initial concept. It is in this approach that our technical work was particularly successful, combining power and delicacy.
“The flankers always represent a wonderful opportunity for the three of us to come together and tell a new story.” – Nadège Le Garlantezec
The flankers always represent a wonderful opportunity for the three of us to come together and tell a new story, which is both a challenge and a pleasure. It’s a chance to express our creativity in each flanker.
WINNING THE BRIEF FOR PRADA PARADOXE EDP (2022), PRADA PARADOXE EDP INTENSE (2023) AND PRADA PARADOXE VIRTUAL FLOWER EDP (2024) MUST HAVE BEEN EXCITING. I SEE THEY INCLUDE SERENOLIDE. WHAT CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT THIS MUSK INGREDIENT AND THE EFFECT IT BRINGS TO THESE FRAGRANCES?
Winning the brief for Prada Paradoxe is a highlight of my career, especially in the context of the COVID-19 pandemic.
It was necessary to adapt to the situation, and it remains a quite powerful story, especially since it was co-created with my mentors, Antoine Maisondieu and Shyamala Maisondieu. Serenolide is a renewable musk that brings a modern and addictive sensuality.
IMAGE: Prada.
ÂME DU COEUR IS YOUR LATEST CREATION (2024) FOR LIQUIDES IMAGINAIRES. YOU’VE ALSO CREATED TELLUS (2015), ILE POURPRE (2016) AND NAVIS (2022) FOR THE BRAND. WHAT DO YOU ENJOY MOST ABOUT WORKING WITH THE COMPANY FOUNDER PHILIPPE DI MÉO?
Working with Philippe Di Méo is always an exciting adventure. He was one of the first clients I met at art exhibitions and installations, long before we began collaborating on fragrance creation.
In the early days of Liquides Imaginaires, he was in search of sanguine waters. I had developed a note after a vacation in Portugal, capturing the essence of the Douro Valley with its hints of port, oak barrels and the interplay between wine and wood. I shared this idea with Philippe, who loved it and bottled it. He offers a rich and fascinating olfactory world that allows us to explore unconventional notes.
WHAT NOTE DO YOU ESPECIALLY ENJOY WORKING WITH? AND IS THERE ONE YOU STRUGGLE WITH?
I don’t set any limits for myself. I appreciate the balance between exploration time and moment of technicality that led us to work with our chosen materials. Some ingredients have been with me forever, while others appear unexpectedly and enrich my palette.
What started out as a trickle has become a veritable flood. I’m talking about the extrait de parfum deluge on the market, big designer and niche brands alike.
As designer becomes more niche and niche becomes more designer (it’s so confusing), this highest fragrance concentration (also called perfume, pure perfume and parfum) is becoming the all-important way to exalt quality.
I knew already that the extrait de parfum is de rigueur but it was confirmed recently when Thibaud Crivelli, founder of Maison Crivelli, told me: “The extraits make up 80% of our sales, so it shows that we’ve found this connection – it is something that people are looking for. It also explains why, moving forward, we are only launching extraits.”
If you know your fragrance history, you’ll know there’s nothing new about extraits, per se. Many of the classics (Chanel No 5, Guerlain Mitsouko, Caron Tabac Blond, etc) were originally released in this concentration decades ago and revered by those who’ve had the good fortune to smell vintage versions of them.
Taking their cue from these grandes dames, many niche brands only do the extrait de parfum thing and those that haven’t realise they’d better do so quick-quick if they’re to maintain their air of exclusivity.
If an eau fraiche (anything from 1% – 3%) and eau de cologne (2% – 4%) are the lowest fragrance concentrations according to the amount of oils, then an extrait de parfum is the highest (20% to 30% upwards), but even here there is lots of variation, depending on which online guide you consult.
To add to the confusion, just because it says “le parfum” on the box doesn’t mean it’s a parfum. The same goes for “elixirs”. The name implies something rich and concentrated but doesn’t automatically mean it’s an extrait de parfum. Best advice: read those boxes carefully.
Another area of contention: performance (and probably the worst way to judge the quality of a fragrance). Just because it’s an extrait de parfum doesn’t mean it’s going to last forever and let everyone know how fabulous you are. Who hasn’t tried to scrub off an EDT they didn’t like but which remained with them for the rest of the day?
So now that I’ve clarified matters as much as I can, let’s get to a selection of some of my favourite extraits.
HERMÈS TERRE D’HERMÈS PARFUM (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)
There are fragrances and then there are modern classics. Sometimes I’m guilty of over-using this term. But if I’m strict in its application, Hermès Terre d’Hermès would surely deserve this accolade. Both in terms of its innovation and influence.
The original from 2006 has Jean-Claude Ellena’s minimalist, but bold style all over it. Nothing is gratuitous in this most elegant of scents that blends the sunny bitterness of grapefruit, subtle earthiness of cedar and mineraline qualities of flint to balanced perfection.
For the 2009 parfum version, also created by Jean-Claude Ellena, there’s no doubt this is still TDH (when a scent is so dear to me, I allow myself such abbreviations).
The citric opening has been heightened and shiso accentuates the freshness with its sharp spiciness. The flint note evolves into an almost burnt treatment of oakmoss, woody and benzoin notes. Although this first flanker is not as well known as its illustrious predecessor, I think it’s very special indeed.
Other top parfum options to check out from the French luxury goods brand: Hermès Voyage d’Hermès Parfum (2012) and Hermès Galop d’Hermès Parfum (2016).
JEROBOAM VESPERO EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (VANINA MURACCIOLE)
In a world of hype and over-exposure, this Paris-based niche brand doesn’t get the attention it should. Let’s do something about that, shall we?
It was founded by François Hénin, the man behind the Jovoy niche fragrance boutiques in cities such as Paris, London and Doha. So clearly the entrepreneur knows quality when he sees / smells it and that same high standard applies to his own perfume company.
A 2017 release, Vespero starts out fresh and fruity with notes of apple, pink grapefruit and bergamot. When those dissipate, there’s an animalic leather vibe with hints of floralcy from geranium and jasmine. François Hénin loves his musks and perfumer Vanina Muracciole interprets that in the most seductive way in the drydown where an amber accord is intertwined with earthy patchouli.
NISHANE HACIVAT EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (JORGE LEE)
Thanks to the huge popularity of Creed Aventus, any fragrance with a pineapple note is inevitably compared to that best-seller. So let’s state categorically: Aventus doesn’t own pineapple and this 2017 release from the Turkish niche brand’s Shadow Play Collection should be judged on its own merits.
Now that I’ve got that out of the way, there’s juicy pineapple galore in the opening. Citrus notes of bergamot and grapefruit ensure it’s not too icky-sticky sweet. Fresh jasmine continues the fruity tropical vibe of the intro, with patchouli and its biotech equivalent Clearwood bringing clean depth. The bitter oakmoss in the drydown makes a pleasing contrast to the sugary aspect.
CHANEL BLEU DE CHANEL PARFUM (OLIVIER POLGE)
Both the EDT (2010) and EDP (2014) versions of Bleu de Chanel (created by Jacques Polge) are defined by their refined take on citrus and cedar notes, among others. While they have different emphases, they are not radically different fragrances. Bleu de Chanel Parfum is not a reinvention of the modern aromatic-woody classic, but it certainly offers a new dimension.
Featuring notes of lemon zest, bergamot and mint, the opening pulls you in immediately with its crisp spiciness. It’s dangerously addictive, so don’t be surprised if you find yourself doing more re-sprays than usual. Notes of lavender and geranium build on the freshness of the intro with their aromatic greenery.
The drydown of sandalwood (sustainably sourced from New Caledonia) elevates this fragrance above its EDT and EDP predecessors. Smooth and creamy, it’s a grown-up, big boy treatment of the precious wood. Cedar enhances the woody character of the fragrance, while the synthetic Iso E Super gives it velvety muskiness.
Bleu de Chanel Parfum is polished perfection. It’s been another best-seller for Chanel. And justifiably so. Some people have accused it of being “boring”, “safe” and “predictable”. I disagree. It’s Chanel at its classic and classy best.
Want something a bit more exclusive from Chanel? You can’t go wrong with Chanel Coromandel Parfum (2019) and Chanel Sycomore Parfum (2022), both from the quality-assured Les Exclusifs de Chanel range.
ORTO PARISI CUOIUM PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)
LEATHER! The bottle wrapping for this 2021 release from the Amsterdam-based niche brand (apparently a reusable vegetable leather) announces its intentions from the start with its brooding animalic potency. Perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri always makes a big statement with his creations.
I reckon there’s a large dose of isoButyl quinoline (the ingredient used to produce leathery earthiness) assisted by the spiciness of black pepper and the smokiness of incense and cade wood oil at work here.
That might intimidate you if you’re more used to smoother, more commercial takes on the genre. It’s given delicate sweetness with notes of orange, violet and vanilla. The drydown maintains the deep and dark mood with labdanum and patchouli.
It’s unequivocally bold and will reward those with more adventurous tastes.
CARON POUR UN HOMME DE CARON PARFUM* (JEAN JACQUES)
Founded in 1904 by Ernest Daltroff, Caron is one of the iconic houses of French perfumery with several classics still in production. It doesn’t get more classic than Un Homme de Caron EDT with its lavender-vanilla combo (if you’re wondering where Francis Kurkdjian took his inspiration for Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male, here you go), which was originally launched in 1934.
The 2024 release Caron Pour Un Homme de Caron Parfum sees in-house perfumer Jean Jacques keeping the lavender – three varieties in the form of French lavender essence, French lavandin essence and French lavender absolute – and developing the vanilla in an amber direction with opoponax essence and styrax resinoid.
For most of its progression, it’s cool, almost metallic on my skin. Which means, I love it.
In the last of my very s-t-r-e-t-c-h-e-d-out posts (let’s call it maximising opportunity) on the Meet The Creators event held by Skins, South Africa’s leading niche retailer, these are my impressions.
Some trivial, some pseudo-profound, some about the state of niche.
+ Influencers are a headache for event organisers. But when some of them command the attention of almost one million followers, the show must go on… only when they arrive.
+ Social media has changed the world of perfume irrevocably, for better and for worse.
+ Niche is as much about commerce as it is about creativity.
+ While brands might be about niche and luxury, there’s nothing glamorous about putting in the hours, days, months and years to make a success of them.
+ Selling and living your brand is a full-time job. It takes immense self-confidence and patience to sell your brand for the umpteenth time.
+ Getting the balance between control freakery (ie, planning by researching the various brands and preparing questions) and spontaneity is a fine art that I’m yet to master.
+ It’s all about the extrait and increasingly the hair spray.
(*Apologies to Nick Cave.)
(**It’s taking me a long time to get going this year.)
Getting more than 10 brand founders together in one place at the same time in a bad reputation city like Johannesburg is no mean feat. But that’s exactly what the team at leading niche retailer Skins did with savoir-faire for their Meet the Creators event.
I got the opportunity to interview most of the founders. Despite my best intentions (I’m so easily distracted, poor time management, etc), I didn’t get around to interviewing Steyn Grober (Aqualis), Jonnie Vigar (Leif) and Jun Lin (Born To Stand Out). Will have to make up for that somehow in the New Year when my brain is up and running again.
Philip Hilege, co-founder of the OG Skins in the Netherlands, was also in attendance. Skins celebrates its 25th anniversary in 2025, so will be following up with him on the other side of 2024 to find out more about the biz of niche retail.
THIBAUD CRIVELLI (MAISON CRIVELLI)
In the six years since launching in 2018, the Paris-based house founded by (and inspired by the experiences) of Thibaud Crivelli has become a niche-dom leader.
The past few years have been about extraits de parfum for the brand, such as Hibiscus Mahajád and Oud Cadenza. Will these perhaps over-shadow the appeal of some of your other, equally good fragrances in EDP concentration?
It will happen, yes, but it’s a normal situation and now we have more options for our customers. The extraits make up 80% of the sales, so it shows that we’ve found this connection – it is something that people are looking for. It also explains why, moving forward, we are only launching extraits.
What else is new?
We’ve launched candles for Hibiscus Mahajád and Oud Maracujá.
From your recent launches, which one resonates with you the most?
When I launch the fragrances, I love them, but it doesn’t mean that I would wear them. I don’t create for myself. The perfumes are inspired by stories I live, but I’m not the target.
Is that why the brand has been so successful?
Yeah, because we’ve found a very good balance between stories, originality and perfumes which are not just speaking to me, which are too abstract or too simple.
They are rich in texture and full of life. They are surprising in their originality, but they are not far-fetched.
CHRIS COLLINS (CHRIS COLLINS)
The New York-based model-turned-entrepreneur leads one of the few black-owned companies in perfumery. While I applaud him for being a pioneer, it’s the quality of the fragrances that bear his name that make him really stand out.
Apparently, Kilian Hennessy, the man behind Kilian perfumes, influenced your decision to launch your own house…
My world was in luxury and fashion. I was one of the faces of Ralph Lauren for many, many years. But my true love was always perfume. I didn’t know the whole creative process, about Grasse and Paris, and their history.
IMAGE: Ralph Lauren.
When I met Kilian about 10 years ago that changed everything because he introduced me to this world of perfume, the alchemy and mysticism. So the tagline of my fragrances is “the alchemy of fragrance”. He’s been such an incredible mentor.
We have similar styles. For example, we both love boozy notes. Of course, my interpretations are different to his. We still stay in touch.
You turned 50 recently, so a belated happy birthday. How are you feeling as you start this new decade?
Thanks, not bad for an old man [laughs]. I feel great. Most people try to hide the fact that they’re getting older; it’s a precious moment you should grasp.
To live on this planet, this number of years, and all the accomplishments, all the failures, all the pain and all the love, it all comes together and it comes into my creations. I can’t wait to be 60, but not too fast.
BENOÎT VERDIER (EX NIHILO)
With more than 10 years in the biz, the co-founder of the Paris-based house was in a reflective mood.
What would the most recent releases, Speed Legends EDP and Chandigarh Express EDP, tell us about where the maison is today?
It’s still first, in terms of inspirations, a mix of the founders Olivier Royère, myself and Sylvie Loday, our tastes and our passions in life.
For Speed Legends, it was quite a challenge for Jordi Fernández to translate the feeling of speed on skin.
Chandigarh Express is inspired by our passion for architecture, a tribute to this city in India that was created from scratch [by architect Le Corbusier], like we were created from scratch [Ex Nihilo is Latin for “out of nothing”], but at a different level. We worked with a younger perfumer, Gaël Montero, on it.
It starts from the inspirations when we create together. We like to mix the generations of perfumers we use.
We write stories, we take pictures, we do mood boards, use music and films. So maybe this is an evolution in our work, 360-degree kind of briefs, that are quite different from what we were doing 10 years ago.
You’ve used the same fragrance company since launching in 2013, Givaudan. Any particular reason for that?
It’s very immediate, very easy working with their perfumers – for example, Dalia Izem, Louise Turner, Quintin Bisch, Natalie Gracia-Cetto – and their ingredients. They have the Ex Nihilo mindset.
“To keep the consistency between all the fragrances, because now we have five collections, that is difficult.”
It’s nice to have a lot of choices, but to keep the consistency between all the fragrances, bring meaning and respect storylines, because now we have five collections, that is difficult.
The market now is all about the extrait, but you still must stay true to who you are.
STINA SEGER (BIBBI)
If the inspirations drawn from the Swede’s meditative state of mind don’t get you; the fragrances most certainly will.
Your brand is quite new and launched in 2023. Had you thought about it for a long time?
I started work on it after my first child in 2020.
Your husband, Jan Vilhelm Ahlgren, is well known for his fragrance company, Vilhelm Parfumerie. Was he an influence at all?
Of course. Because I’m in graphic design, for the concept of Vilhelm Parfumerie, we worked together, even though it’s completely Jan’s brand. He inspired me to take the next step and pushed me to do it. Support from your husband is crucial if you have smalls kids. So now he’s at home with them.
You’ve used Jérôme Epinette as your perfumer. What makes it such a good working relationship?
There’s a bit of a Scandinavian touch to his perfumes and he knows what I am looking for. Working with one perfumer is important because I want the fragrances to belong together.
If somebody was new to your brand and you had to choose just one fragrance that would epitomise what you are about, what would it be?
Ghost of Tom has notes of bergamot and black tea. It has a fresh background. And then you have the dark details. It has so many layers and it’s unisex. I know couples who share a bottle, and it takes you on a journey when you wear it. It has a veil that surrounds you, so it’s comforting.
Is your Scandinavian identity part of your fragrances?
I have my history, my dreams, so it’s there, but not in an important and obvious way. What I love about my country is the nature, the mystique of the deep forests, the northern lights and the oceans. Every country has its energy and essence with which we are born.
SIMONE ANDREOLI (SIMONE ANDREOLI)
The Italian perfumer / founder is an unashamed lover of all things sweet and tropical. But there’s more to his brand than that popular style.
You seem to go for the sweeter side of things. Is that something you particularly enjoy?
We’ve become a popular brand for tropical and exotic fragrances because I’m a traveller. I love to discover tropical paradise places, so I’ve had several trips to the Caribbean and Africa as well. This has an impact on my stylistic approach, for example, Leisure in Paradise and Malibu – Party in the Bay.
They’re a celebration of life, while in the Poetry of Night Collection, you can indulge in more transcendental, contemplative experiences.
You started in 2011. How has your style changed since then?
I started in 2011 as a fragrance creator, but the brand was born in 2014 when I was 24 years old.
So this is the 10th anniversary of the brand. Congrats!
Thank you. I never wanted to be a perfumer for another brand. I wanted to impart my own vision of creativity with my own brand. So I created fragrances which could truly embody my frame of life, my experiences around the world that are made of people, places, emotions and feelings.
Intense feelings because I’m not interested in light stuff or ordinary and trivial things.
What has been the biggest change from when you first started?
Maybe in 2017 when I released Don’t Ask Me Permission. It’s about losing yourself in the crowd of the wildest nights in Rio de Janeiro. So don’t think too much, just go with the flow and lose yourself without asking permission to experience novel feelings.
That was probably the changing spark and we started doing tropical and exotic fragrances, a first in the industry. Now, everyone is launching mangoes and passion fruits.
“I’m now focusing on creating different fragrances. Because I’m a creative nose, and I like to challenge myself.”
I’m now focusing on creating different fragrances. Because I’m a creative nose, and I like to challenge and prove myself.
For instance, Ocean of a Midnight Moon embodies the majestic strength of the sea and its profound poetry at night. It’s fresh and mineral. The aromatic part is typical of a Mediterranean environment. And then leather and driftwood. It’s structured and multi-layered.
BRAM NIESSINK (FUGAZZI)
With his work-hard, play-hard ethos, the Amsterdammer has made a name for his company and its daring approach.
What were you doing before you founded your brand?
I did my bachelor in fashion management at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute. There were long nights to hand in projects in the morning and working for deadlines. I learned a lot at that school about real life.
Let’s talk about Fugazzi Angel Dust that was created for the introverted person.
When I started the brand, it was all about the loud, outperforming the competitors, because people pay a lot of money for a perfume. I was always taking the maximum amount of oils to have the right quality and price value.
I was thinking, let’s make a molecule kind of perfume that fits more into the home setting, daily use, even when you go to bed. And I did it with one ingredient, mostly: Cashmeran. It’s a beautiful, long-lasting body scent.
If Angel Dust is your more introverted fragrance, which one would be the opposite, the extrovert?
Goudh and Sugardaddy are very loud. It’s like you can’t even wash them out of your clothes [laughs]. But they’re still likeable. That’s important to me.
Now, everyone wants to be loud and make a statement thing. Ultimately, my gut feeling has to say: we do this or we don’t do this. It’s not written by a group but, of course, we now have guidelines and a specific idea how to show the brand to the world.
How does the bottle fit into your approach?
I keep the bottle, as you can see, very boring. I learned in fashion school that marketing should last at least eight to 10 years without changing the packaging.
And your collaboration with Born To Stand Out?
I called Jun Lim [founder of the South Korean house] with FaceTime and told him I adored his brand. He loved my brand too. From that moment, we put the greatest thing together in four to five months. From the perfume to the bottle, it’s a lot of work to do something like this. It turned out to be so much fun.
Collaborations are normal in fashion, but not in perfumery. I’ve always tried to be a bit of a trendsetter. You must be creative to compete with the big firms. It’s a busy industry and there are always new brands.
GREGOR JASPERS (THE GREY)
Seeing a gap in the market for premium skincare products specific to the needs of men, the Dutchman has been helping us look our best since 2018.
You’re not a dermatologist, but looking at my skin now, what product would you recommend?
I don’t know your age, but you’re fairly wrinkle-less. You’ve got strong skin. But strong skin also comes with dull skin. You should exfoliate a bit more than you do.
Pigmentation is my thing. What would you recommend from your range for it?
This is our biggest enemy: photo-ageing and wrinkles through the sun is the worst and, of course, pigmentation of the skin. SPF is most important.
I’m going to do a routine based on your skin type. The Grey Charcoal Face Wash pulls out the dirt and is a very deep-cleansing face wash. It will also help to de-puff your under-eye area.
Then we have The Grey Exfoliating Face Scrub. The white part contains bamboo stem cells and the black pearls break open and release vitamin A for brightening your complexion. When you’re in the shower, put it on your face, for about 30 seconds. It won’t fall off, because it has a gooey texture and acts like a fast facial mask. Slowly rub your face, no pressure is needed.
IMAGE: The Grey.
If you asked me what I would take on a desert island, it’s The Grey Daily Face Protect SPF50, a very light formulation. I’m going to explain to you how we created this product.
“If you asked me what I would take on a desert island, it’s The Grey Daily Face Protect SPF50.”
We chose a chemical filter because it’s way lighter and to convince guys to use SPF daily, there don’t need to be any hurdles about whiteness or stickiness on the face. It needs to be invisible.
But some people with sensitive skin react to chemicals. So imagine the filter as small ping pong balls. We have a larger molecule, the size of a beach ball, and we put the ping pong balls inside the beach balls. In this formulation, there’s no chance of irritation, because the ping-pong balls don’t touch the skin.
IMAGE: The Grey.
These beach balls are charged positively and negatively, so they attract and then push away. In the formulation you get a very even spread of the beach balls. We use less beach balls to have SPF50. That’s a technical innovation of ours.
Find these brands at Skins stores in South Africa.
