We all know the clichéd Instagramable images of fields and fields of the flowering stuff, but pretty pics aside, did you know lavender (scientific name Lavandula) is part of the mint family?
With its qualities ranging from clean, fresh and aromatic to spicy, liquorice-ish, floral and herbaceous, lavender is a mainstay of “masculine” fragrances and especially the fougère family. But it has become increasingly popular in “feminine” releases such as Mon Guerlain in recent years.
Widely used in aromatherapy for its comforting and calming properties, many lavender fragrances have the same effect too.
Originally from the Mediterranean countries of Western Europe and synonymous with Provence, Bulgaria now dominates lavender oil production, although those in the know insist nothing compares with the French stuff.
According to perfumer Sylvaine Delacourte, “In perfumery, lavender can be used in the form of essence obtained by steam distillation, or in the form of absolute obtained by extraction with volatile solvents.”
Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of these lavender fragrances.
CREED BOIS DU PORTUGAL EDP*
As much as I enjoy the big releases from the Paris-based niche brand – Green Irish Tweed, Siver Mountain Water, Millésime Impérial et al – it’s the lesser-known ones such as Creed Bois du Portugal I cherish the most.
Taking its inspiration from the Portuguese part of the Iberian Peninsula, with its dense forests, this 1987 launch opens with the crisp citrus tones of bergamot.
It makes the most of the clean, spicy characteristics of lavender to create an elegant aromatic ambience. The drydown emphasises the forest inspiration of this EDP (“bois” = wood in French), with rich notes of cedar, sandalwood and vetiver on display.
BOUCHERON POUR HOMME EDT (FRANCIS DELEAMONT, JEAN-PIERRE BETHOUART & RAYMOND CHAILLAN)
Launched in 1991, Boucheron Pour Homme was the first men’s fragrance from the French luxury jewellery brand. It has lost none of its elegance and is highly recommended if you want a touch of lavender instead of the proverbial full monty.
It opens with the wondrous freshness of lemon, lemon verbena, bergamot and orange notes. Hints of lavender and basil add to the aromatic appeal. The heart features a light sprinkle of floral notes, including rose and lily-of-the-valley.
The drydown is woody in character, with notes of vetiver, sandalwood and musk concluding a composition that works its classic charms from start to finish.
MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN MASCULIN PLURIEL EDT* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)
Showcasing the perfumer’s love for the fougère fragrance family, this 2014 release from the Paris-based niche brand opens with lavender absolute – the Provençal variety renowned for its smooth, slightly sweet, herbal properties.
It’s given sensual depth with a leather accord and woody notes of Virginian cedar, Haitian vetiver and Indonesian patchouli. Kurkdjian maximises the latter in a smoky and musky style.
Elegance, timelessness, seductiveness… this modern classic has it all.
PENHALIGON’S ENDYMION CONCENTRÉ EDP*
Penhaligon’s Endymion Cologne is a lavender exemplar. But the Concentré version gets my vote when I want something with greater depth.
It opens with freshly elegant notes of lavender and bergamot, which give it a captivating herbal-citrus character at first. This 2016 release then takes a floral direction with the addition of a geranium note, which builds on the initial freshness.
A waft of coffee brings an intriguing twist and contrast to the proceedings. A soft suede mood permeates the EDP and reinforces its timeless appeal with musky powderiness.
CHANEL BOY EDP (OLIVIER POLGE)
One of Olivier Polge’s first creations for Chanel as their in-house perfumer, this 2016 release showed he was the natural successor to his father, Jacques Polge.
An addition to the Les Exclusifs de Chanel private range, it’s inspired by one of the great loves of Coco, Arthur “Boy” Capel who also financed her fashion business in its earlier years.
Lavender, cool and chic, gets fresh assistance from hints of grapefruit and lemon notes. The green and rosy nuances of geranium complement the aromatic aspects of the lavender, and eugenol gives it a softly spicy clove-like touch. Powdery white musk and grassy coumarin finish the fragrance with the brand’s customary finesse.
While we’re in Chanel-land, I must also mention Chanel Jersey EDP. Just as the fashion icon pioneered women wearing Breton sailor sweaters made of jersey in the 1920s, so this 2011 release from the Les Exclusifs de Chanel collection exhibits the masculine-feminine dynamic of fresh lavender and creamy bourbon vanilla in a softly sensual style.
YVES SAINT LAURENT LIBRE EDP (ANNE FLIPO & CARLOS BENAÏM)
Kudos to the creators for this fragrance with a twist that doesn’t smell like everything else on the market. I love its play on the masculine and the feminine.
It opens with the distinctive character of diva lavender, a special variety grown in Provence. It’s warm, slightly sweet and unmistakably floral, instead of the clean and cool customer many of us may be used to. It’s strengthened with the addition of lavandin heart. There’s a bit of fresh citrusy action too, courtesy of notes of mandarin orange and neroli.
The fresh aspect is further developed when the orange blossom, rich and sensual, comes through, with support from jasmine sambac. The drydown is dominated by deep vanilla from Madagascar. It works particularly well with the musk and amber accord.
TOM FORD LAVENDER EXTRÊME EDP (OLIVIER GILLOTIN)
Want a big and bold lavender fragrance? Then introduce yourself to this 2019 release.
There’s a good chance you won’t notice the opening notes of lemon and violet leaf, as this EDP lays on the lavender with speed. It’s fresh, clean and aromatic, as expected, but also coolly metallic. It then gets sweeter and warmer as cinnamon is added to the mix.
The spice sets the tone for the drydown featuring an abundance of vanilla and tonka beans. The result: smooth, creamy and musky stuff.
GUCCI GUILTY ESSENCE POUR HOMME EDT
The Gucci Guilty range has been around since 2010 and over the years it has produced standouts such as Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP (2017) and Gucci Guilty Elixir de Parfum Pour Homme (2023).
While you will not find 2024’s addition to the range, Gucci Guilty Essence Pour Homme EDT (originally Gucci Guilty Black EDT from 2013), anywhere on the hype-o-meter (always a good sign), it offers something more valuable: a timeless variation on the fougère theme in which the herbaceousness of lavender meets the earthiness of patchouli, and the surprising floral tones of orange blossom in between.
*These lavender fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins.
