Over the years, I’ve often stated my weariness of fruity-florals, mainly for being too screechy-sweet. Yet I’ve found myself enjoying a number of fruity-florals this year, for example, Chanel Chance Eau Splendide EDP and Puredistance Divanche Extrait.
So is it time for a reassessment of this genre on my part? Are these fragrances included here exceptions to the self-imposed rule? Have my tastes changed?
So many questions. To which the answer is ultimately, it’s not the genre per se but rather how the fragrances are done. Some of these featured fragrances could also be classified as chypres. But let’s not obsess about labels, shall we?
What are your thoughts on fruity-florals?
FRÉDÉRIC MALLE LE PARFUM DE THERESE EDP* (EDMOND ROUDNITSKA)
Can’t think of a better place to start than this impeccable beauty.
We can thank Edmond Roudnitska for classics such as Dior Diorissimo, Eau d’Hermès and Femme Rochas. We can also thank him for this innovative composition that was originally created in the 1950s.
The legendary French perfumer created it for the exclusive use of his wife, Thérèse. She gave the formula to Frédéric Malle when he launched his company in 2 000.
Opening with fresh notes of melon and cucumber, it richens with the appearance of prune, rose and jasmine notes, eventually settling on a woody base of patchouli and vetiver.
Complex and intriguing, it’s unlike any of the fruity-florals I’ve smelled before.
TOMMY HILFIGER TOMMY GIRL EDT (CALICE BECKER)
A fragrance can do many things. But can it make you feel younger? While I have no scientific proof, this 1996 release does exactly that for me.
That’s partly nostalgic and seeing that the 1990s is having a moment again, courtesy of the Oasis reunion and other Britpop stalwarts back in the charts, I will go with it.
The other part is plain and simple. A citrus burst of mandarin orange and lemon is given a green spin with notes of blackcurrant, mint and jasmine. With lotsa florals, in particular apple tree blossom and honeysuckle, it’s as pretty can be.
Subsequent flankers have stuck to the youthful, reasonably priced formula rather well.
DIOR J’ADORE EDP (CALICE BECKER)
Oh my, hasn’t she aged well. No, I’m not talking about Charlize Theron, the former face of J’adore and now representing the French brand’s anti-ageing range, Dior Capture, with consummate style. Okay, I still have a crush on the South African-born actor. I digress, as I do…
It’s J’adore, the mega-hit launched in 1999 and surely one of the reasons why its creator, Calice Becker, was honoured with the Fragrance Foundation Lifetime Achievement Award in 2021.
This is complex stuff from the get-go (but not WTF complex) with soft fruity aquatic notes of pear and melon leading the way, and peach bringing powderiness to the already-elegant affair.
Becker’s meticulous floral bouquet – jasmine grandiflorum, jasmine sambac, ylang-ylang and Damascus rose – is all about balance, but I do get more sunny jasmine than the others.
It’s absolutely timeless and graceful, part of its ongoing success.
BVLGARI OMNIA CRYSTALLINE EDT (ALBERTO MORILLAS)
Loving the design of the updated Omnia bottles from the Italian luxury jewellery brand. More curves, less plastic, but true to the original infinity symbol design.
The good news: the juice, in this case Omnia Crystalline EDT, remains a thing of refined and airy simplicity.
Launched in 2005 and created by master perfumer Alberto Morillas (who’s created many of the brand’s most well-known perfumes), this EDT is the first flanker to the original from 2003.
It begins with an uplifting combo of nashi pear (on the right side of sweetness) and woody bamboo. After that there’s a light treatment of lotus flower, with hints of green-ish tea in the background. The freshness continues through to the drydown featuring balsa wood and white musk.
Pure loveliness, I’m cocooned in its calmness.
BDK PAS CE SOIR EDP* (VIOLAINE COLLAS)
Never mind postmodernism. I’m all about post-hype-ism. Huh? Just as I tend to watch award-winning films and TV shows long after their initial release dates so I often try mega-hyped perfumes when the over-bearing buzz has hopefully settled down. That way I know I’m judging it on its own merits. Or that’s the theory at least.
So here we go with this BDK:
One of the launch fragrances from the Paris-based brand, it’s a fruity-floral with heaps of character and sophistication, thanks to the deft skills of Violaine Collas.
Moroccan jasmine and orange blossom are blended with quince chutney. The spiciness of ginger lingers in the background, along with the fuzzy muskiness of Cashmeran. Au contraire, certainement ce soir!
HERMÈS TUTTI TWILLY D’HERMÈS EDP (CHRISTINE NAGEL)
I’ve loved every release in the Twilly d’Hermès range since its launch in 2017. Unlike its predecessors, the 2023 addition to the collection wasn’t an instant love for me.
But as I’m a patient sort of guy (sort of) and have huge respect for the French luxury goods brand and in-house perfumer Christine Nagel, it took a while to reveal its charms to me.
While tropical and aquatic, the opening litchi note is decidedly unsweet. The freshness changes to the warm spiciness of ginger flower, with clean but sensual musk in the drydown.
Kudos to Nagel for not going the sweet girlie-girl fruity-florals route with this one. Even though aimed at a younger market, Hermès girls (and boys) are stylish creatures too.
The bottle (designed by Florence Manlik and dressed with a silk ribbon scarf designed by Carine Brancowitz) remains one of the cutest in the biz.
KAJAL LAMAR EDP (MARK BUXTON)
This 2020 release epitomises what the Paris-based niche brand is all about: rich compositions often with an oriental vibe.
It makes a statement from the beginning. The brand lists the more generic fruity notes, but I get big and juicy pineapple from the mix. It creates a warm and vibrant tropical tone, with notes of bergamot, orange, coriander and cardamom adding a fresh and spicy dimension.
The intense fruitiness of the intro continues with the floral notes of jasmine and rose, which also have a honeyed feel. Most intriguingly, Mark Buxton makes the most of the marigold note with its characteristic herbal muskiness that won’t be to everyone’s liking.
While undeniably sugary, Lamar is so well put together and not in the least cloying. No wonder it’s been known to temporarily lure converts, including this reviewer, to the sweet side.
GOLDFIELD & BANKS SUNSET HOUR EDP (HONORINE BLANC)
The Australian niche brand sure does crowd-pleasers (nothing wrong with that), spotlighting botanical ingredients native to the country.
For this 2020 release, master perfumer Honorine Blanc showcases desert peach (much prefer its other name, quandong, and FYI: the tree is part of the sandalwood family). The nuances of its blossoms and fruit are complemented with juicy, tangy notes of raspberry and pear, plus salted caramel.
This latter gourmand aspect doesn’t dominate, fortunately, while sunny jasmine sambac is given spiciness through ginger and pink pepper. If it’s sunset hour, there must be some creaminess, and Australian sandalwood and vanilla oblige with soothing warmth.
It’s a cocktail of contrasting pleasure. Another round please!
AMOUROUD APRICOT NECTAR EDP (CLAUDE DIR)
In perfumery, apricot generally means osmanthus. And that floral is present here with its honeyed tones, along with the juiciness of the title note and spice from cypriol, pepper and cardamom.
Yes, there’s a lot going on here in this Claude Dir composition, but in a good way.
The listed oud isn’t obvious (very much the house style), while there are soft floral touches via jasmine and rose. Plum adds to the fruitiness.
There’s plenty of depth in the drydown, thanks to a combo of earthy patchouli and cedar mingling with musks. And the apricot vibe is long lasting.
Because it’s such rich, complex stuff, it’s not an everyday wear. Sometimes I love it, sometimes it’s too much. Either way, I have to admire Claude Dir’s boldness with this composition.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR À FLEUR DE PÊCHE* (ANTOINE MAISONDIEU)
The original niche pioneer founded by Jean Laporte turns all of 50 next year. A stunning achievement.
And while it may not have notched up the classics in recent years that it did so easily a few decades ago, it still has enough standouts to deserve my ongoing respect. For example, this 2023 release (and thanks to fellow blogger Daniel for bringing it to my attention a while back).
Ooh, that peach opening so silky and a tad salty – followed by jasmine at its fruity and in full bloom best – and the earthiness of patchouli.
Considering its inspiration, “the elegant fruit that seduced the gourmets of Louis XIV’s court”, it’s quite a streamlined affair. But one with maximum enjoyment.
*These fruity-florals available in South Africa at Skins.
I think you hit the nail on the head, that screechy-sweet versus not divides the fruity florals. I would like to smell the Amouroud one, as I recall liking some of their perfumes before. Apricot used to be an instant lemming for me, but I’ve been disappointed when the note was built with ethyl maltol or something else that’s cloying. It can certainly be done well, though, as with A Banner Unfurls by Sarah McCartney (which she hasn’t released, but has talked about in her videos).
Many thanks. Ah yes, finding the ones that don’t screech. The Amouroud is a pretty realistic rendition. I’m sure the Sarah McCartney one hits the spot.
Great read, Richard. Thank you! I’m not holding my breath on much of anything new from L’Artisian Parfumeur. Much of what has come out their door of late has been up the mark. I did enjoy Pas Ce Soir by BDK, but gave me echoes of Poets of Berlin by Vilhelm Parfumerie. I’m eager to sample Puredistance Divanché. I enjoy most everything Puredistance has offered thus far.
Thank you, dear Flaconneur. This LAP might surprise you. Divanché is definitely worth sampling.
Hi Richard, a great review… still not convinced about fruity-florals…. but hey jasmine and orange blossom…. might have to change my mind…. :-)))
Big thanks. Always good to keep an open mind while adhering to the YNK (You Never Know) Principle. :-)))