It’s the bane of many of our lives and I’ve done a fair amount of complaining about it over the years. No, not influencerisation, it’s the never-ending proliferation of fragrance flankers, with their churn-’em-out, diminishing returns and blatant cash-in ethos.
BUT while previously, I saw fragrance flankers as a necessary evil, I’m now starting to see them as sound business sense.
After all the investment that goes into creating a new product line with the pillar fragrance, it’s just plain silly to start something new from scratch every time.
Fragrance flankers are also an opportunity to explore different aspects of a signature note. The Gentleman Givenchy (orris) and YSL Libre (lavender and orange blossom) ranges have done this to great effect. They’re proof that there are very good flankers, some of which are better than the OG.
Below some thoughts on recent fragrance flankers which illustrate the phenomenon in different ways. PS: it’s not unique to designer fragrances. In fact, niche brands are increasingly getting in on the act. For example, Creed with Aventus, Maison Francis Kurkdjian with Aqua and Amouage with Love, among others.
HERMÈS TERRE D’HERMÈS EDP INTENSE (CHRISTINE NAGEL)
Since its inception in 2006, the Terre d’Hermès line has maintained the high standard other brands should aspire to. After 2024’s super-refreshing Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée EDP, the range takes an unexpected turn with Terre d’Hermès EDP Intense in 2025.
The fresh and spicy opening of bergamot and black pepper is recognisably TDH, but the inclusion of a warm coffee note will perplex some people. Wait, did you say coffee?! Yes, in-house perfumer Christine Nagel could have gone the more obvious route, but here she explores the possibilities of this note without going, yawn, gourmand. Liquorice adds an intriguing dimension of anise.
The drydown is in more familiar mineraline territory with notes of stone, lava and wood completing the deal.
A great example of inspiration – “the inner fire that animates the Earth and man” and execution coming together – and proof that almost 20 years later, TDH remains a fascinating proposition in its various guises.
BVLGARI POUR HOMME EDP (JACQUES CAVALLIER)
The Italian luxury brand (part of the LVMH stable) has been doing some housekeeping in recent years. As a result, various flankers have fallen by the wayside. And its Bvlgari Homme (not to be confused with the Bvlgari Man line) range has been streamlined to just one fragrance. The 2025 release sees the OG from 1996 now in EDP concentration.
Did you know Bvlgari pioneered tea fragrances in the early 1990s with its debut, Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert Eau de Cologne, created by Jean-Claude Ellena? So no surprise to see it here again in the form of a Darjeeling tea accord and Ceylon tea – a beautifully green and herbal effect.
Ginger enhances the initial freshness, while depth-adding guaiac wood is treated with admirable restraint. The muskiness in the drydown, partially via ambrette seed absolute, has a slight floralcy.
It’s woody, it’s musky, it’s tea-rrific (couldn’t help myself, but you get the point). My inner psychic tells me we should be seeing some additions in the future and with the company’s quality approach, I’m all for it.
CHANEL CHANCE EAU SPLENDIDE EDP (OLIVIER POLGE)
With its fun yet chic vibe, Chanel’s Chance range is clearly aimed at a younger generation of mesdemoiselles who want a spritz of Coco’s daring-do.
The OG, Chanel Chance EDT, goes all the way back to 2003 with its winsome jasmine-patchouli. Since then it has presented variations on the jasmine theme with Chance Eau Fraîche (2007), Chance Eau Tendre (2010) and Chance Eau Vive (2015), with different concentrations in between.
The 2025 addition, Chance Eau Splendide EDP, sees a departure from the white floral and is a full-on fruity-floral with its sweetness. Normally, this would make me run. Very fast. So it says a lot about the skills of in-house perfumer Olivier Polge that this EDP is très charmant.
There’s raspberry aplenty in the opening. It’s given a light touch with airy violet and rose. The geranium at the centre of it all build on the rose and balances the initial sweetness. What starts out as fresh becomes increasingly warm and sensual as the perfume progresses towards the drydown of musks and cedar.
I’m certainly not this scent’s target market but as with the Hermès Twilly d’Hermès range, it has broader appeal beyond its intended demographic.
