If you went shopping at a niche retailer, you could be forgiven for thinking that niche must be synonymous with big spending. And there are certainly many examples of that. But Essential Parfums proves otherwise.
Perhaps because the French brand founded by Géraldine Archambault in 2018 keeps concentrations at the lower end of the EDP spectrum, Essential Parfums keeps costs lower too.
The house provides quality, distinctiveness and creativity at a most attractive price that’s even cheaper than many designer brands. When I saw the price on a bottle when I first started getting into the house, I thought it must be a mistake. But no, I’ll adopt that dreadful phrase, it is what it is. Even with our hideous exchange rate. (They’ve just gone the extrait de parfum route with Bois Impérial. Also very reasonably priced.)
My quick thoughts on some Essential Parfums releases below.
ESSENTIAL PARFUMS PATCHOULI MANIA EDP (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)
Every now and then one I come across a fragrance that reminds me why I love a raw material so much. This 2023 release is one of those perfumes.
Patchouli can be described as earthy, chocolate-y, woody and spicy, and all those qualities are brought out here, along with some ambergris muskiness via the synthetic Cetalox.
While earthy, it’s not dirty. Perhaps due to perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin’s use of the dsm-firmenich captive molecule Clearwood.
ESSENTIAL PARFUMS ROSE MAGNETIC EDP (SOPHIE LABBÉ)
Sophie Labbé enhances the fruitiness of the queen of florals with litchi in this 2018 release.
The sharpness of grapefruit and freshness of mint tempers the sweetness of vanilla, with clean musks in sensual attendance.
ESSENTIAL PARFUMS MON VETIVER EDP (BRUNO JOVANOVIC)
The 2018 Bruno Jovanovic creation Mon Vetiver is just that. My (kind of) vetiver.
The soft smokiness of Haitian vetiver meets the sharp freshness of juniper berry, lime and gentian. There’s woody muskiness from the synthetic Cashmeran, while patchouli enhances the earthiness of the title note.
It all adds up to produce a vetiver scent that’s easy on the nose and the pocket.
ESSENTIAL PARFUMS THE MUSC EDP (CALICE BECKER)
Created by Calice Becker, The Musc (2018) sees the Givaudan captive molecule musk Nirvanolide faceted with the fresh spiciness of ginger, floral tones of lavandin and sophisticated sweetness of beeswax.
Australian sandalwood brings woody creaminess to the seemingly simple composition. The result: powdery distinctiveness with contrasts of freshness and warmth.
ESSENTIAL PARFUMS DIVINE VANILLE EDP (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)
Before Olivier Pescheux died in 2023, he created gems like this 2019 release. It’s everything I want a vanilla-centric fragrance to be: warm, spicy, cosy, creamy, not too sweet.
The woodiness in the mix, courtesy of cedar, ups the appeal. Although lots of effort must have gone into its creation, it doesn’t try too hard to please.
ESSENTIAL PARFUMS FIG INFUSION EDP (NATHALIE LORSON)
The title note comes to life with the bright citrus of mandarin orange and clementine in this 2022 creation.
There’s more freshness from notes of freesia and mandarin orange, with complexity from black tea and sandalwood. I always feel calmer when I wear it.
ESSENTIAL PARFUMS ORANGE X SANTAL EDP (NATALIE GRACIA-CETTO)
Let’s do some fragrance arithmetic, shall we?
Orange x santal = Yes, yes please.
There’s a most pleasing contrast of sweet and sour in the opening of this 2018 release. There’s also fresh aromatics from basil and cypress. Sustainably sourced Australian sandalwood brings on the creaminess in the drydown, with a touch of earthy oakmoss. The price, as with all releases from this company, also makes me a happy boy.
ESSENTIAL PARFUMS BOIS IMPERIAL EDP (QUENTIN BISCH)
Is it? Or isn’t it? And does it really matter?
There’s more than enough online discussion about the similarities between Essential Parfums Bois Impérial EDP and Marc-Antoine Barrois Encelade*, both created by Quentin Bisch. So I won’t get bogged down in that debate here.
First, there’s the citric spiciness of Nepalese timut pepper absolute mingling with the clove-ish tones of Thai basil in this 2020 release.
The highly accomplished perfumer then goes down the woody path with a combo of captive molecules from Givaudan (the fragrance company he works for) – Akigalawood (upcycled patchouli) and Georgywood (cedarwood) – and the earthiness of Indonesian patchouli. A good helping of Ambrofix gives it muskiness and staying power.
This is what I call a shape-shifter. Despite its seeming simplicity on paper, it reveals different facets with each wearing. Sometimes fresh and breezy, other times deep and spicy and then silky, almost ISO E Super-ish. But always intriguing and rewarding.
*For the record: it’s similar. And it isn’t. Hope that helps.
Essential Parfums are available in South Africa from Skins.