Of all the florals at a perfumer’s disposal, tuberose is probably the most potent, intoxicating and divisive. Depending on how it’s used, tuberose fragrances can range from the green and fresh to the downright exotic and erotic.
There was a time when the white floral was synonymous with the forbidden and all sorts of carnality. Young women, especially, might be led astray if exposed to the temptations of tuberose at night.
Originally from Mexico, it is now mainly grown in India, Egypt and France. Tuberose absolute is expensive to produce so perfumers will sometimes use a mix of naturals and synthetics to produce a similar effect.
These are some of my favourite tuberose fragrances, from the classics to more recent releases, in a variety of styles and budgets.
Are tuberose fragrances a “yes” or a “no” for you?
ROBERT PIGUET FRACAS EDP (GERMAINE CELLIER)
There are several classic tuberose fragrances on the market, including Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower EDP and Diptyque Do Son EDT. However, Robert Piguet Fracas remains the benchmark against which all others are measured. It was inducted into the Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2006.
Tuberose is known for its intensity and this EDP, which was launched in 1948, takes it to the max in a most elegant way. Peach and orange blossom notes stand out in the opening, but tuberose takes pride of place in the floral heart of the fragrance, which also includes notes of jasmine, gardenia, osmanthus and narcissus. The sensuality of the tuberose is masterfully complemented by the base notes of sandalwood and musk.
Madonna took major inspiration from Fracas for the creation of her rather good 2012 fragrance debut, Truth or Dare EDP.
GIORGIO BEVERLY HILLS EDT (BOB ALIANO)
The debut fragrance from the designer fashion boutique that put LA’s Rodeo Drive on the luxe shopping map was launched in 1981 with a mega-bash suitable for the so-called “decade of excess”.
From the first spray, with its flourish of sweet orange blossom and peach, and even in its current formulation, it’s unapologetically big. Some might even say it’s brash and ostentatious. Apparently, it was even banned from restaurants due to its overpowering style.
Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT is really about its flamboyant florals, with tuberose, gardenia and jasmine leading the opulent white florals charge. Ylang-ylang also makes a fruity appearance. The overall effect is wonderfully optimistic and uplifting. There’s a lot happening in the drydown. But I can pick out a pleasurable blend of oakmoss, sandalwood and vanilla notes.
More than four decades later and several changes in ownership later, don’t let its banishment to the budget shelves put you off it.
GIVENCHY AMARIGE EDT (DOMINIQUE ROPION)
This 1991 classic has aged well and still makes a powerful statement. Created by legendary master perfumer Dominique Ropion, it’s one of those big, complex and busy compositions. So I won’t claim to be able to detect all the notes.
There’s a fruity opening, courtesy of notes of peach and plum. Orange blossom adds to the luxe vibe. The sumptuous heart is all about florals, especially tuberose and mimosa, their green qualities brought to the fore. The abundant warmth radiates through to the drydown where tonka bean, sandalwood and vanilla stand out.
While this scent is sweet from start to finish, it’s never cloying. I’m talking supreme sophistication here.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR LA CHASSE AUX PAPILLONS EDT* (ANNE FLIPO)
While perfume is not going to solve the world’s problems, it is a reminder of the beauty to be found in it. I’m all for a floral lift and the wonderfully named La Chasse aux Papillons does just that in such a charming way (it’s inspired by childhood memories of chasing butterflies).
Launched in 1999, this EDT is a straight-up bouquet of white flowers that includes jasmine, orange blossom and especially tuberose. The latter is light and bright, not intoxicating and animalic.
Softly sweet, this enchanting scent is guaranteed to put a smile on your face whenever you wear it.
DIPTYQUE DO SON EDT* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)
Inspired by Diptyque co-founder Yves Coueslant’s memories of his childhood in Do Son, Vietnam (then Indochina), this 2005 release from the Paris-based niche brand captures the idea of the special smell of tuberoses wafting on the sea breeze in a beautifully evocative style.
Orange blossom stands out in the intro, with its fresh and sunny sweetness. Its animalic qualities are further developed by the spicy take on tuberose, while jasmine adds to the overall depth. A subtle marine mood is discernible in the background. The warmth of summer is carried through to the drydown, where notes of benzoin and musk are in play.
The 2013 EDP version is also worthy of your attention.
NISHANE TUBERÓZA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (JORGE LEE)
A 2014 release from the Istanbul-based niche brand’s Blossom Collection, Tuberóza opens in bright and light mode, with notes of ylang-ylang and orange blossom.
When the tuberose from Mexico (where it originates from) takes centre stage (can it be any other way?), it’s more fruity than animalic. Gardenia and marigold strengthen the floral ambience. The drydown sees the synthetic Amberwood, all musky woodiness, in combo with creamy sandalwood.
This extrait is a surprisingly uplifting take on the genre. The diva is so charming and warm, no wonder all the other actors are more than happy to lend their support.
MEMO MARFA EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)
The Paris-based niche brand doesn’t just produce some of the best leather fragrances in the biz through their Cuirs Nomades Collection; it also has some superb florals to sniff out.
A 2016 release from the Fleurs Bohèmes Collection, this EDP is quite a streamlined affair by Memo standards and captures the nocturnal heat of its desert city inspiration with creative flair.
Notes of orange blossom and mandarin orange create a suitably warm ambience. Luxuriously creamy tuberose absolute is given more sensual heat with oil of ylang-ylang and its fruity characteristics. An agave accord adds a touch of earthy greenery. The drydown keeps the creaminess going with sandalwood oil, vanilla and musk.
The bottle with its all-seeing eye design is gorgeous too.
L’INTERDIT GIVENCHY EDP ROUGE (DOMINIQUE ROPION, ANNE FLIPO & FANNY BAL)
Some franchises are more rewarding than others. Since the 2018 re-launch of L’Interdit Givenchy (the original Givenchy L’Interdit was created for Audrey Hepburn in the 1950s), I’ve learned to put any purist tendencies where they belong – in the past.
The range has been proceeding at a steady pace, with a new interpretation every year. L’Interdit EDP Rouge (2021) is my favourite so far. The sexy bottle got my attention first. The scent did the rest.
The opening is all spicy warmth, with notes of ginger, blood orange and pimento leaf. Floral notes of jasmine and orange blossom increase the sensual vibe. Although not officially listed, there’s definitely some animalic tuberose lurking in the bouquet. Creamy sandalwood and spicy patchouli feature in the drydown.
Bloody good stuff, I say.
CHOPARD SPARKLING LOVE EDP (DORA BAGHRICHE)
As we all know, tuberose can be heavy and domineering at the best of times. And that style certainly has its place.
But if I’m looking for a lighter but still distinctive take on the theme, the 2023 release from the Swiss luxury jewellery brand, Chopard Sparkling Love EDP, will do very nicely indeed.
As its name will tell you, Dora Baghriche gives the white floral an effervescent lift with freshness from notes of mandarin and orange and sunny fruitiness from osmanthus and ylang-ylang.
The fruitiness continues into the drydown with Helvetolide, the dsm-firmenich synthetic musk known for its sophisticated smoothness.
GABRIELLE CHANEL L’EAU EDT (OLIVIER POLGE)
While its predecessors, Gabrielle Chanel EDP (2017) and Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP (2019), are more voluptuous tuberose fragrances, the 2024 flanker, Gabrielle Chanel L’Eau EDT, is well worth checking out in its own right if you’re looking for something subtle.
The initial berry fruitiness leads to a floral bouquet of jasmine, ylang-ylang, orange blossom and Grasse tuberose. While dialling down the tuberose, in-house perfumer Olivier Polge takes it in a green and fresh direction, with creamy sandalwood in the drydown completing it.
It’s lighter than the above-mentioned versions. But there’s more than enough character here to keep you coming back for more.
*These tuberose fragrances available in South Africa at Skins.
