IMAGE: Givaudan.
When I contact Christophe Raynaud initially to request an interview, he’s about to go on vacation. Much needed, I’d think, judging by all the perfume projects he’s been juggling together with his position as vice-president perfumer of fine perfumery at Givaudan.
IMAGE: Givaudan.
Christophe Raynaud started his career as a perfumer working for small companies. And while earlier creations – Balenciaga Eau de Cristobal (2003), Celine Dion Belong EDT (2005), Azzaro Chrome Legend EDT (2007) and Guerlain My Insolence EDP (2007) – signalled his obvious talent, it was the huge success of Paco Rabanne 1 Million EDT (2008) that truly opened doors for him and other achievements (see below).
+ Carner Barcelona D600 EDP (2010)
+ Antonio Banderas The Golden Secret EDT (2011)
+ Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Noir Ambre EDP (2016)
+ Roberto Cavalli Uomo EDT (2016)
+ Boucheron Tubéreuse de Madras EDP (2017)
+ Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal Pour Homme EDP (2017)
+ Joop! Wow! EDT (2017)
+ Karl Lagerfeld Bois de Vetiver EDT (2017)
+ Mugler Aura EDP (2017)
+ Cacharel Yes I Am EDP (2018)
+ Dolce & Gabbana Dolce Peony EDP (2019)
+ Christian Louboutin Loubicrown EDP (2020)
+ Missoni Wave EDT (2020)
+ Moncler Pour Homme EDP (2021)
+ Carolina Herrera Good Girl Blush EDP (2023)
You’ve just come back from vacation. Did you take your work with you? Or did you have a proper break?
I never really disconnect from work, even during my vacations. Ideas often come to me spontaneously, and my wife jokes about how I’ll be creating “another little formula” even from the beach. I even wake up at night with thoughts about work. But I genuinely enjoy it; whenever inspiration strikes, I bring those ideas to life.
Recently, I returned from Mexico, where I noticed how much people appreciate fragrance. They have a wonderful sense of cleanliness, and I love that scent – it sparks my creativity.
“While I may be on vacation, I’m always in tune with my environment, collecting ideas and impressions” – Christophe Raynaud
My travels are a significant source of inspiration for me as a perfumer. So, while I may be on vacation, I’m always in tune with my environment, collecting ideas and impressions that will influence my future fragrance creations.
IMAGE: Missoni.
Was it always perfumery for you? Or did you consider other options?
As a child, I dreamed of becoming a veterinarian. However, by my teenage years, my passion shifted to perfumery.
My best friend, whom I considered a brother, aspired to be a fashion designer like his father. We couldn’t imagine being apart, so we envisioned starting a company together – he would create clothing, and I would craft perfumes. From the very beginning, it became an obsession for me; I was captivated. I sought out internships at factories and at L’Oréal, taking every opportunity to learn more about perfumery.
After some research, my mother discovered ISIPCA. This led me to study chemistry to enter the perfumery school and to discover the behind-the-scenes of perfumery.
What did you enjoy most about your studies at ISIPCA?
Finally immersing myself in the world of perfumery was a thrilling experience as I discovered and learned about raw materials.
At ISIPCA, I was constantly engaged and absorbed in my studies; it was where I truly flourished. I was part of a fantastic group, and we all got along exceptionally well – I keep in touch with many of them. Everything felt effortless, and I was genuinely in my element.
How did you begin your career as a perfumer?
Although I always dreamed of working on the major briefs I handle today, I began my career in smaller companies. This experience was invaluable for my learning.
After completing internships in chromatography in Switzerland, I joined Drom in Paris, where I set up a lab and became a junior perfumer. I started experimenting with twists and toiletries. By exploring various aspects of the field, I gained a wealth of knowledge. This journey has been instrumental in shaping my career and bringing me to where I am now.
IMAGE: Boucheron.
You’re the vice-president perfumer of fine perfumery at Givaudan. What does that entail?
The title of vice-president is equivalent to that of master perfumer. This role involves us deeply in the company’s operations, allowing us to participate in discussions related to strategic decisions.
From my experience, this position also involves fostering a welcoming environment for new collaborators, ensuring they feel supported and integrated into the team. A key aspect of my role also involves transmitting knowledge and training the next generations of perfumers.
IMAGE: Carner Barcelona.
How would you describe your compositions? And what do you always aim to achieve with them?
My compositions are often described as powerful and captivating, yet they also exhibit a great deal of variety. I believe in the importance of creativity and diversification, avoiding the trap of confining myself to a specific style.
Paco Rabanne 1 Million EDT (2008) is a huge success of yours. Does that success come with pressure of having to repeat the winning formula in other creations?
Quite the opposite. 1 Million completely transformed my life. We never anticipated the level of success it would achieve.
“1 Million completely transformed my life. We never anticipated the level of success it would achieve.” – Christophe Raynaud
As its success grew, it opened many doors for me, and more people approached me for collaborations. It has been nothing but positive – never any pressure, in fact. This was also true for the projects that followed; I never felt that pressure. We all owe a debt of gratitude to this incredible fragrance.
IMAGE: Rabanne.
What do you remember most about the Lancôme La Nuit Trésor EDP* (2015) project?
The most significant aspect of this fragrance for me is the warm welcome I received at the company Firmenich and the memory of an incredible collaboration with a perfumer right from the start.
It was truly remarkable to be welcomed in such a way within a perfumery house, and I will always be grateful to that person who introduced me to this formula and with whom I later collaborated many times.
This memory is even more special because the fragrance has become a tremendous success and is still highly celebrated today.
I love what you did with PENHALIGON’S CONSTANTINOPLE EDP (2021), especially the orris. Is that a raw material you particularly enjoy working with?
I enjoy working with all raw materials. What I particularly appreciate about orris is its versatility; it can be crafted into both masculine and feminine compositions.
IMAGE: Penhaligon’s.
Your 2022 creation, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mémoire de Roses EDP, is a beautiful rendition of the queen of florals. How did you approach its creation?
The rose holds a special significance for me, as my wife is English and has a deep love for this flower. I aimed to capture her essence in the fragrance – vibrant, elegant and colourful. This creation is a heartfelt tribute to her and her appreciation for roses.
YSL MYSLF EDP* (2023) features a standout orange blossom note. Was that your idea, or was that part of the brief?
It was an idea from Daniela Andrier. Perfumers are particularly drawn to orange blossom because it presents a multitude of creative possibilities. We can work with the fruit to create bitter orange essence, the flower for neroli essence, the absolute from the blossom, and even the branches for petitgrain.
It is one of the richest raw materials, full of diverse facets that we love to explore. Daniela Andrier, Antoine Maisondieu and I had the pleasure of developing the fragrance together. We’re absolutely delighted with its success!
IMAGE: Yves Saint Laurent.
You’re part of the team behind the Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal fragrances. All of them are on the sweet side. What kind of fragrance do you personally prefer to wear?
While I enjoy working with bold amber notes, my personal preference for wearing scents leans towards fresher fragrances. It’s quite the opposite of what I create daily, and I find it refreshing to switch things up.
“While I enjoy working with bold amber notes, my personal preference leans towards fresher fragrances.” – Christophe Raynaud
What projects have you just finished that you can tell me about?
Lancôme La Vie est Belle L’Elixir* stands out for its unique structure, characterised by the abundant use of materials. This deliberate overdose of materials contributes to the fragrance’s power, impact and incredible longevity.
Rabanne Million Gold EDP* introduces a bold new sensory experience while preserving the original’s olfactive DNA of 1 Million. Million Gold seeks to replicate its addictive success by enhancing the woody signature with the highest quality and most noble wood essences.
*These Christophe Raynaud creations available in South Africa at Arc Store.
