When Ex Nihilo (Latin for “out of nothing”) was founded in Paris in 2013 by Sylvie Loday, Olivier Royère and Benoît Verdier, their aim was to provide an alternative to the clichés of luxury.
A decade later and with a growing international presence that doesn’t compromise on exclusivity and quality, there’s no doubt the trio have succeeded in bringing something different to niche-dom. While distinctly French, their ethos has a refreshingly rebellious edge too.
IMAGE: Ex Nihilo.
Working with the industry’s best perfumers – including Quentin Bisch, Natalie Gracia-Cetto and Jordi Fernández – has paid handsome dividends for the brand. And I appreciate the fact that they acknowledge the expertise of all the creators behind their releases.
Apart from opening standalone stores in Dubai and Los Angeles, in recent years the company has gone the extrait de parfum route with the Quintessence Collection.
This selection of Ex Nihilo fragrances should give you a good idea why this house is worth celebrating (I’m using the release date of its debut launch in 2014) and sniffing out.
EX NIHILO FLEUR NARCOTIQUE EDP (QUENTIN BISCH)
The brand’s debut fragrance (2014) remains one of its best-sellers and has developed an enthusiastic cult following over the years for a truly addictive fruity-floral fragrance both men and women can wear.
It opens with the fresh fruitiness of tropical lychee and powdery peach notes. Bergamot keeps it on the right side of sweetness. The florals that follow – peony, jasmine, orange blossom – maintain the airy freshness, but with gorgeous intensity and brightness. The base is all musky and woody, with a hint of earthy moss.
Also look out for the recently released extrait de parfum version (2022), created by the same perfumer.
EX NIHILO VETIVER MOLOKO EDP (GUILLAUME FLAVIGNY)
If it has vetiver on the bottle, I must try it. If its name references the novel and film A Clockwork Orange, I must try it. This 2014 release doesn’t disappoint.
It opens with the crisp citrus of bergamot and aromatics of cypress. Then plenty of vetiver, woody, earthy and slightly smoky. Just the way I love it. A milk accord and Madagascan vanilla give it a creamy and cosy feeling, while amyris in the drydown amplifies the freshness to complete the composition of intriguing contrasts.
Highly recommended if you’re looking for a vetiver with a twist.
EX NIHILO SWEET MORPHINE EDP (NATALIE GRACIA-CETTO)
With a name like Sweet Morphine, this 2015 release, which plays on the idea of addiction (one of perfumery’s mainstay tropes), delivers in abundance.
It opens with intriguing lilac, fresh floral powderiness in full-on mode. Bergamot, in support, adds to the freshness. There’s more powdery florals in the way of sweet mimosa and iris. The sweetness is heightened with a mega dose of rich bourbon vanilla, while vetiver and patchouli pile on the woody sensuality.
All that powder (get it?) and sweetness might sound like too much of a good thing, but in the hands of Natalie Gracia-Cetto it all comes together in a most effective way.
EX NIHILO ATLAS FEVER EDP (SHYAMALA MAISONDIEU)
From the Rolling Stones to Led Zeppelin’s Robert Plant and Jimmy Page, Morocco has seen its fair share of rockers making legendary visits. Perfumer Shyamala Maisondieu was inspired by the north African country’s mystique in the creation of this 2017 release.
It opens with lots of spicy pink pepper infused with the smoke of incense. A smidgen of narcissus adds to the exotic vibe.
This perfume is at its most rewarding in the drydown. There’s a creamy and sophisticated sweetness, thanks to notes of vanilla, tonka bean and sandalwood, while a woody accord of guaiac and oak brings earthiness to the composition.
EX NIHILO VIPER GREEN EDP (NADÈGE LE GARLANTEZEC)
This 2018 release might not be as venomous as its name suggests, but there’s still plenty to seduce the senses in the style the brand does so well.
It opens with a fresh citrus burst of green mandarin. The slight bitterness is amplified by a big dose of galbanum. Iris is one of the listed floral notes, but I can’t detect it among all the hyper greenness.
Angelica root adds to the effect, while dashes of patchouli and vetiver bring an earthy and woody dimension to the drydown.
EX NIHILO HONORÉ DELIGHTS EDP (NATALIE GRACIA-CETTO)
Gourmands range from the sweet and sticky-icky to the perfectly posh. Ex Nihilo HonoréDelights is definitely the latter, even though perfumer Natalie Gracia-Cetto used no obvious edible notes in its creation.
This 2020 release opens with fresh notes of neroli and bergamot. A large helping of oh-so-silky ambrette is blended with powdery iris and honeyed orange blossom. The drydown is luxuriously creamy, with notes of sandalwood and white musk.
I feel like I’m sitting in one of the French capital’s top patisseries when I wear this cleverly composed perfume.
EX NIHILO THE HEDONIST EDP (JORDI FERNÁNDEZ)
When I first saw the name of this 2021 release, my thoughts went in all sorts of boozy, gourmand-ish directions. Perhaps that’s why I didn’t click with this EDP at first. I was expecting something decadent, whereas it’s more about connecting with the joys of nature. Having spent more time with it, I’m loving its distinctive simplicity.
It opens with fresh ’n spicy notes of bergamot and ginger. And then gets really interesting with a large dose of Akigalawood. Perfumer Jordi Fernández maximises the spicy-musky patchouli qualities of the Givaudan captive molecule with impressive results.
A fresh rendition of vetiver and cedar closes the tight and cohesive composition with style.
EX NIHILO IRIS PORCELANA EDP (DALIA IZEM)
Just when I thought I’d smelled all the possible variations on the iris theme, along comes this 2022 release. Good to see the brand giving a relatively unknown perfumer the chance to show her olfactory skills.
According to the Ex Nihilo website, Dalia Izem was inspired by the delicacy of iris pallida (one of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery) and French porcelain in the creation of this EDP. That refinement is evident from the airy opening featuring violet leaf. The iris has all the powderiness I expect but with a softly fresh sweetness.
Settling with the creaminess of musk and sandalwood, it’s a welcome addition to the iris category.
EX NIHILO OUTCAST BLUE EDP (JORDI FERNÁNDEZ)
Perhaps because of the associations of blue with freshies, I was expecting this 2022 release to have that vibe. Mais, non! The EDP is a far more interesting proposition than that well-worn genre.
The intro is all about the warm spice of pepper and saffron, with the soft and soothing woodiness of cedar in support. A lily-of-the-valley note makes a soapy contribution too. It culminates with the earthiness of vetiver, oakmoss and patchouli. Oh, and did I mention the large helping of tobacco, which adds to the richness and complexity of this standout scent?
It’s available in an extrait de parfum concentration, also created by Jordi Fernández.
EX NIHILO BLUE TALISMAN EDP (JORDI FERNÁNDEZ)
Tutti frutti
Fruity oudy
Froudy (apologies to Little Richard)
Where am I going with this? Please bear with me as I work this out in real time.
This 2023 release starts out fresh and fruity with notes of ginger and orange blossom, but especially pear. The woodiness – via the Givaudan captive molecules Georgywood and Akigalawood – is clean but potent.
There’s an oud-ish element to this fragrance but not of the “I’m oud and don’t you forget it!” variety, along with musk in the drydown. It was not an immediate love, but has grown on me with each wearing.
Ex Nihilo fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics.