Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP Review: Soothe Operator

2017. Seems like such a long time ago now, doesn’t it? Almost a different world. In fragrance terms, I remember it well for the release of one of my favourite tea scents, Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDT. I wasn’t the only one to be taken with it and the EDT turned out to be a big hit for the American beauty brand. So, of course, expectations were high when Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP was released rather quietly in 2022 (it’s only gathering momentum now).

Is it another winner? Several flankers have joined the original so I give my quick thoughts on those too.

PERFUMER

Surrounded by women who loved the classics from Lancôme, Caron and Lanvin, Mexico-born Rodrigo Flores-Roux’s childhood memories of perfumes and the many conversations they sparked eventually led him to the renowned perfumery school ISIPCA in Versailles, France.

An internship with the legendary Jean-Claude Ellena taught him many things, which he still applies to his work today. “He taught to formulate in such a way that every single raw material has a function, even though he’s a minimalist and I am not,” says the perfumer.

“He taught to formulate in such a way that every single raw material has a function, even though he’s a minimalist and I am not”

The 1998 release Clinique Happy EDT (co-created with Jean-Claude Delville) kick-started his fine fragrance career in a major way.

Twenty-five years later, Rodrigo Flores-Roux can count all these creations, among others, as his achievements: Donna Karan Black Cashmere EDP (2002); John Varvatos EDT (2004); Britney Spears Hidden Fantasy EDP (2008); Calvin Klein cK Free For Men EDT (2009); Houbigant Fougère Royale EDT (2010 reformulation); Juicy Couture Peace, Love & Juicy Couture EDP (2010); Tom Ford Neroli Portofino EDP (2011); Arquiste Anima Dulcis EDP (2012); Aedes de Venustas Oeillet Bengale EDP (2014); Carolina Herrera Herrera Tuberose EDP (2015); Commodity Leather EDP (2017); Estée Lauder Paradise Moon EDP (2021); and Dolce & Gabbana The One Gold For Men EDP Intense (2021).

He’s also created several other EDTs for the Elizabeth Arden Green Tea range, including Summer (2005), Exotic (2009), Yuzu (2014) and Sakura Blossom (2021). So you could say the New York-based senior perfumer and vice-president of fragrance creation at Givaudan is well versed in the style of the brand.

SO WHAT DOES ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA EDP SMELL LIKE?

It starts out all fresh and light, with a combo of clary sage, a sea breeze accord (a subtle treatment, for those of who you break out into a sweat at the mere mention of anything aquatic) and Italian mandarin.

The perfumer’s skills are evident as the warmth of the white tea accord comes through (FYI: Camellia sinensis leaf extract, obtained from the leaves of tea, is featured on the ingredients list). Its milkiness is given floral touches of jasmine and rose water (the latter is now increasingly upcycled as an ingredient). The tea effect is enhanced by the herbaceousness of maté absolute. This note can be bitter; here it balances the delicate sweetness. There’s lots of musk (that would be the “trio of tranquillity musks” listed in the official notes) and a hint of vanilla-ish tonka bean in the drydown.

Now’s a good time to mention that Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP utilises Givaudan’s patented VivaScentz technology. We all know that fragrance has mood-enhancing qualities and this “innovation” I quote “is a design tool allowing perfumers to create compositions that will enhance well-being, based on the understanding of the link between fragrances and wellbeing”.

I contacted the perfumer to explain the workings of this technology but hadn’t heard from him as deadline loomed (understandably, he’s a busy man. Fortunately, all I really need to know is that Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP delivers all that it promises with consummate ease: refreshment, calmness and relaxation. And who doesn’t need that right now?

Apart from the white tea accord and musk, none of the notes is particularly prominent, yet they all contribute to the overall effect. As an EDP, it costs a fraction more than the original EDT. It’s not a reinvention of my favourite but has more depth and definition.

This is versatile+, especially in spring and summer, so wear it wherever and whenever you want a sense of upliftment. With its feel-good properties, it’s also the perfect fragrance to wear to bed. (If you don’t already do this, I beseech you do so ASAP!)

A QUICK GUIDE TO FRAGRANCES IN THE ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA RANGE

All these releases give the winning formula a different spin on the white tea accord theme, with musky aplenty in the drydown.

ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA EDT (2017)

Inspired by the simple pleasure of a cup of tea, the opening of this Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Guillaume Flavigny and Caroline Sabas co-creation is a fresh ’n breezy mix of aquatic and mandarin notes, with musky sage in the background. The gently milky white tea accord is given powdery (iris) and herbal (maté) accents. Concluding with the warmth of musks and woods, it’s as good as I remember it when I tried it for the first time in 2017.

 ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA WILD ROSE EDT (2019)

The first of two flankers that were released simultaneously. Guillaume Flavigny and Rodrigo Flores-Roux add fresh ’n fruity touches of red currant, pear blossom, rose and peony to the white tea blend, with just the right amount of sweetness.

ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA VANILLA ORCHID EDT (2019)

A richer, warmer, sweeter, almost gourmand-y take on the motif with marked notes of vanilla orchid, gardenia, jasmine and vanilla. A creamy and chic Gil Clavien composition.

ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA MANDARIN BLOSSOM EDT (2020)

Gil Clavien keeps it fresh, warm and inviting with sunny notes of mandarin orange, orange blossom, jasmine and osmanthus.

ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA GINGER LILY EDT (2021)

Transitions from fresh citrus notes of orange, bergamot and neroli to the warmth of ginger and ginger lily blossom. Uplifting spice and all things nice.