Initio was doing quite nicely, thank you, with releases such as Absolute Aphrodisiac (2015), Side Effect (2016) and Psychedelic Love (2017). And then in 2018 – boom! – the French brand launched Initio Oud for Greatness EDP.
I’m not exaggerating when I say this EDP has become hugely popular, joining the ranks of Creed Aventus, Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 and Parfums de Marly Herod as exemplars of niche excellence to its many fans. I’m told that niche retailer Skins Cosmetics can’t keep up with the demand for it.
At the same time, this law of perfumery – What Goes Up Must Be Pulled Down (that is, the more successful a fragrance becomes, the more it’s trashed online) – came into effect.
So I’m cutting through the OTT hype and nasty negativity to bring you the Fragroom review of Initio Oud for Greatness.
PERFUMER
Despite repeated attempts to get this info from the brand and online research, nada. I expect niche companies to be more transparent with this stuff, but moving on…
SO WHAT DOES INITIO OUD FOR GREATNESS SMELL LIKE?
This release from the brand’s Black Gold Project Collection gets going in bold style with a big dose of saffron. Its leathery qualities are supported by the clean aromatics of lavender and earthiness of nutmeg. The effect is fresh ’n spicy, with an emphasis on the latter.
It doesn’t take long for the oud to come through. Any oud fragrance, especially a relatively pricey niche one, inevitably leads to the question: but is it real oud? The brand claims to use both natural oud wood and agar wood oil in this composition.
Depending on a number of factors (for example, the quality, where it’s from, how it’s treated, what it’s combined with), the precious ingredient can range from the overpoweringly skanky and barnyard (not for beginners) to the smoother and more refined, à la Initio Oud for Greatness.
“It’s rich, resinous and very much a front-and-centre interpretation.”
Even though it’s not as “brutal” as the brand claims it to be, it’s still rich, resinous and very much a front-and-centre interpretation which lasts through to the drydown.
Patchouli and musk feature here, albeit in minor assistant roles to accentuate the overall deep mood. It’s unusual for an Initio fragrance to not be musk heavy, but nothing wrong with a change in tone.
It’s easy to understand why Initio Oud for Happiness is so popular. Yes, it’s not particularly complex but it’s beautifully blended in a friendly Western style. Oh, and did I mention its impressive sillage and longevity? Definitely a big part of its appeal.
Anyone looking for a potent but accessible, statement-making oud will find their joy in this release.
Initio Oud for Greatness EDP is available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.
Fantastic review and shots as always, Rich.
Many thanks, dear Daniel, as always.
And thank you, dear Daniel, for the lovely compliment, as always.