From its founding in 1916 in Parma by Carlo Magnani, Acqua di Parma fragrances have been identifiable with all things elegantly and luxuriously Italian. Founder Signor Magnani (pictured, below) set the stylish tone by spraying a handkerchief with his debut fragrance Colonia and then slipping it into his pocket. It doesn’t get more “la dolce vita” than that.
Image: Acqua di Parma.
It wasn’t always sunny skies. Although admired by Hollywood stars such as Cary Grant and Audrey Hepburn, the company had to be rescued by prominent Italian businessmen Diego Della Valle (Tod’s), Luca Cordero di Montezemolo (Ferrari) and Paolo Borgomanero (La Perla) in the 1990s.
“The fragrance lines mostly feature high-quality variations on the citrus theme.”
Now part of the LVMH luxury group, Acqua di Parma is a thriving business with fragrance, bath, body, candle and barber ranges. The fragrance lines – Colonia, Blu Mediterraneo, Signatures of the Sun, Le Nobili and Note di Colonia – mostly feature high-quality variations on the citrus theme. All are infused with the brand’s classic and chic style.
There’s more to the luxury brand than Colonia. From this all-time classic to lesser-known releases, I take you through this quintessential Italian company. My only complaint about this remarkably consistent brand is that it often doesn’t divulge its perfumers.
ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA EAU DE COLOGNE
More than a century after its launch in 1916, Colonia is still one of the best sophisticated fragrances on the market. A lot of that has to do with the way this cologne conjures all sorts of images of the good life, Italian style.
It begins with a deliciously sharp-ish flourish of Sicilian citrus notes (lemon, orange, bergamot). A distinctive opening that’s impossible to resist. The heart goes into more herbal territory with lavender, verbena and rosemary notes, while Bulgarian rose enhances the overall freshness. These eventually give way to a base of subtle, yet uplifting vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli notes.
An essential part of any fragrance wardrobe.
ACQUA DI PARMA BLU MEDITERRANEO MANDORLO DI SICILIA EDT
A gourmand-ish Acqua di Parma? And before I get carried away with myself, this is not a full-on gourmand as we know it, or even as my nose experiences it. After all, the Italian brand that’s known for its timeless scents wouldn’t indulge in such styles in a tacky manner.
Launched in 1999 and from the always-rewarding Blu Mediterraneo range, Mandorlo di Sicilia celebrates the Sicilian way of life.
Of course, it opens with sunny, citrus-centric notes, but in a subtler style than usual, while star anise introduces the “edible” factor. This EDT is headlined by softly sweet green almonds, and ylang-ylang brings floral fruitiness. The other big character in this composition is vanilla. Only the best Madagascan creaminess is partnered with musk in the drydown.
It’s all done in seemingly effortless ADP style. Superba!
ACQUA DI PARMA BLU MEDITERRANEO CIPRESSO DI TOSCANA EDT (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)
This 2005 release must be one of the most distinctive scents I’ve smelled from the Blu Mediterraneo Collection. Some might even call it “challenging”.
An Italian take on the fougère, it opens with rich notes of star anise and elemi, with the brand’s trademark citrus notes in the background. The heart is herbal and aromatic, with lavender and clary sage taking the lead. I’m sure I detect a big dose of basil, although it’s not officially listed.
Notes of cypress and pine in the drydown add to the overall multi-faceted and evocative celebration of Tuscany.
ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA ESSENZA EAU DE COLOGNE
Launched in 2010 and billed as a modern interpretation of the classic original, Essenza isn’t a radical reworking, but rather a case of different emphases.
Neroli and grapefruit are more pronounced in the opening, and the aromatic aspect has been toned down slightly. This version feels fuller than the original while losing none of its uplifting freshness.
It’s seriously good stuff. Many of its fans think it’s even better than its illustrious ancestor.
ACQUA DI PARMA OUD EDP
This intriguing scent, with its contrasts of refreshing citrus and deep oud, was originally launched in 2012 as Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud Eau de Cologne Concentrée in the Ingredient Collection. It’s now part of the Signatures of the Sun Collection.
The citrus notes of bergamot and orange are followed quickly by the oud. Warm, sensual and smooth, it’s a refined take on the theme. It’s complemented by a strong and silky leather accord. The coriander note adds a nice spicy touch. The base adds to the feeling of warmth, with the notes of cedarwood, Indonesian patchouli and sandalwood in perfect harmony.
You might think the combination of citrus and oud will be a total mess, but if you want a smart oud fragrance with a difference and that’s not too in your face, this is the ideal choice. Leather, from the same collection, is also superb.
ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA CLUB EAU DE COLOGNE
Launched in 2015, Club is the most barbershop-ish of all the Colonia flankers so far.
There’s plenty of sunny citrus in the opening, including bergamot, neroli and Sicilian lemon notes. But what really stands out is the mint. Cool and fresh, it gives this scent a green profile.
A note of galbanum brings pleasing sharpness to the mix, while lavender and vetiver keep it green and clean.
ACQUA DI PARMA PEONIA NOBILE EDP
I wouldn’t have said peony is one of my favourite notes. Until I came across Acqua di Parma Peonia Nobile. It’s from the brand’s Le Nobili Collection, which also includes highly recommended Rose and Magnolia perfumes.
Launched in 2016, it opens with the fruity rosiness of raspberry spiced with black pepper. It’s unusual for an ADP not to open with citrus notes. But there’s lots of freshness to go around in the form of peony, Turkish rose and freesia notes. Clean musk and an amber accord complete this floral-fantastic scent that’s sweet in a sophisticated way.
Look out for Iris Nobile EDP, which was unfortunately discontinued.
ACQUA DI PARMA NOTE DI COLONIA I EAU DE COLOGNE
This 2016 release is from the lesser-known Note di Colonia range, which is inspired by various Italian operas.
A celebration of Giuseppe Verdi’s La Traviata opera, it starts off in recognisable Acqua di Parma territory with citrus notes of bergamot and neroli. Florals come through next, with notes of damask rose and violet bringing powderiness, while lavender adds a touch of aromatic appeal. Classic woodiness is provided by the notes of cedar and patchouli in the drydown. There’s a slight bitterness throughout this scent, which gives it complexity.
Yes, it’s more expensive than the average Acqua di Parma, but the quality is top-notch, plus it comes in a 150ml bottle.
ACQUA DI PARMA VANIGLIA EDP
Vanilla fragrances are all too often icky-sweet, reminding one of cheap candles. But Acqua di Parma Vaniglia (from the Signatures of the Sun Collection) is not your ordinary vanilla scent.
This 2019 EDP opens with the warmth of citrus notes, in particular bergamot, mandarin and neroli. They are given a light and airy treatment. The floral heliotrope brings a nutty quality.
The vanilla makes itself known early in the fragrance’s progression. The best variety from Madagascar has clearly been used. It’s creamy and dreamy. There’s a slight hint of jasmine sambac too, which adds to the soft sweetness. Notes of cedarwood and musk in the drydown conclude a deliciously suave experience.
ACQUA DI PARMA QUERCIA EDP
Acqua di Parma does some of the best citrus openings in the biz. That’s been a given since its founding in 1916 with Colonia. So Quercia might be a surprise to those who associate the brand only with sunny Italian skies.
Sure, this 2019 EDP begins in typically bright mode, with notes of lemon, bergamot and petitgrain. It starts to change with the appearance of the spice of pink pepper and cardamom notes. And then takes on a darker character that’s true to its inspiration of walking through an oak-tree forest (“quercia” = oak tree in Italian).
Notes of oakmoss, cedar and patchouli create a suitably damp, earthy and woody feel in the drydown.
ACQUA DI PARMA OSMANTHUS EDP
Launched in 2019, this EDP is fabulously floral and unisex at the same time. Promise.
Slightly bitter neroli meets sweet green mandarin in the intro. Both have honeyed citrus undertones. Peony maintains the freshness, while silky ambrette gives it a natural musky vibe. Pink pepper, with a hint of rosiness, accentuates the floral vibe in a fresh and spicy way.
The osmanthus is richly fruity, with milky accents of apricot and peach. Its sensual character is complemented by a tinge of earthy patchouli, without becoming unbearably sweet.
Acqua di Parma fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics and Woolworths.
Fabulous choices and overview, Rich. I think Francois Demachy has done a lot of their later ones, but as you say they don’t divulge their perfumers, so we never know for sure. I would thrown in Cedro di Taormina as a favourite of mine.
Many thanks, dear Daniel. I thought he would have created them too. Strange that they don’t divulge such info. I seem to have missed that one. Will look out for it. Thank you for the recommendation.
I can’t say that I tried too many perfumes from the brand, but those that I tried were a little too “cologne-y” for me. Not that I don’t like or wear that style of perfumes, but I just don’t value those at this brand’s price level. But I will seek out the mint one – I like mint in perfumes and I like this bottle (and your photo of it).
Thank you, as always, dear Undina. Yes, ADP does have several in that style, although releases from the Nobili range might surprise you. The Colonia Club is super-minty, so hope it appeals to you.