December 2021 - fragroom

December 17, 2021

Best Recent Tom Ford Releases: From FF To Ébène Fumé

Best recent Tom Ford releases? Some people might grumble that there’s no such thing. That they are now more style than substance. That the designer has peaked, etc.

DARK ARTS: Tom Ford in the campaign for Tom Ford Noir. Image: Tom Ford.

Yes, there have been a few average releases in the past few years, but these are the exception rather than the norm. From this round-up of best recent Tom Ford fragrances, it’s clear the luxury brand still has much to offer and is making a lot of money for its founder’s retirement and partner, Estée Lauder Companies, in the process.

Even before he founded his eponymous brand in 2006, Tom Ford was a household name. The savvy and suave businessman entered the fragrance biz in 2006, one year after the launch of his company, with the mega-hit Tom Ford Black Orchid EDP.

Image: Tom Ford.

In a pioneering move, the designer launched his more upmarket and niche-like Private Blend Collection in 2007, including classics such as Noir de Noir, Oud Wood and Tobacco Vanille.

Image: Tom Ford.

A master of provocative imagery since his stints as creative director at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, he’s not been afraid to use the same tactics at his own house (see below). This has extended to the names of some of his recent fragrance releases: Fucking Fabulous, Lost Cherry and Rose Prick.

Image: Tom Ford.

And there’s the crux: the most controversial thing about Tom Ford fragrances now are their prices, especially those from the Private Blend line. Of course, how you price value is personal.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Do you have any best recent Tom Ford releases?

Image: Tom Ford.

TOM FORD FUCKING FABULOUS EDP

Tom Ford had this to say about the attention-grabbing 2017 release (call it “FF” if the name’s too much for you): “It’s undeniably the most straightforward name for such a beautiful scent. Why make it complicated?” However, the shock value overshadowed what is an appealing leather scent.

It opens with a strong herbal dose of clary sage oil, which has leathery characteristics, with the aromatics of lavender in support. The smooth leather that follows is paired with bitter almond and vanilla, giving it a warm, almost gourmand-ish effect. The drydown keeps it sensual and gently sweet with notes of tonka bean and cashmeran.

It’s a seamless blend that’s far more comfy and cosy than its name suggests.

TOM FORD FOUGÈRE PLATINE EDP (LINDA SONG & OLIVIER GILLOTIN)

With its classic masculine profile, the fougère olfactory family features often in the Tom Ford repertoire.

The opening of this 2018 release is in fresh mode, with the herbal tones of clary sage supported by notes of lavender, lemon and bergamot. Herbal artemisia is the centre of attention with its sharply green qualities. Its potency is tempered with the subtle sweetness of olibanum and honey notes as the fragrance transitions to the warm drydown, with softly spicy tobacco and woods finishing it.

It’s been discontinued but can still be found in some stores and online. Released in 2018, Tom Ford Fougère d’Argent EDP is also worth checking out.

TOM FORD LOST CHERRY EDP (LOUISE TURNER)

You naughty boy! Oops, Tom Ford did it again with this 2018 release and its suggestive lost virginity name. Of course, he would never put it in such crass terms.

The intro of the 2018 release bursts with boozy black cherries enhanced with the bittersweet nuttiness of almond. The sweetness kicks in with the fruit of plum, rose and jasmine sambac notes. There’s a lot happening in the complex drydown but I can detect smooth vanilla and amber-y Peru balsam in the mix.

I can’t get enough of this gourmand with clever contrasts for grown-ups .

Image: Tom Ford.

TOM FORD OMBRÉ LEATHER EDP (SONIA CONSTANT)

Part of the Private Blend launch collection in 2007, Tuscan Leather EDP gave Tom Ford major cred in the perfume world and is a standard-bearer in the genre. In 2018, Ombré Leather (originally launched under the Private Blend Collection in 2016) confirmed the brand’s expertise in the category.

It gets going with the warm spice of cardamom. The leather is animalic in all the best ways – sensual and textured – and is given a floral dimension through the intriguing use of jasmine sambac. There’s great depth of the earthy and smoky kind, thanks to notes of vetiver, patchouli and moss, in the drydown.

Also get your nose on the powderier Ombré Leather Parfum, which was released in 2021.

TOM FORD LAVENDER EXTRÊME EDP (OLIVIER GILLOTIN)

Want a big and bold lavender fragrance? Then introduce yourself to this 2019 release.

There’s a good chance you won’t notice the opening notes of lemon and violet leaf, as this EDP lays on the lavender with speed. It’s fresh, clean and aromatic, as expected, but also coolly metallic. It then gets sweeter and warmer as cinnamon is added to the mix. The spice sets the tone for the drydown, featuring an abundance of vanilla and tonka bean. Smooth, creamy and musky, they complete the composition.

A comforting and chic option.

TOM FORD BLACK ORCHID PARFUM

The original EDP was released in 2006. Apart from becoming one of the best-sellers of that decade, it’s also responsible for tempting men over to the dark side of so-called “female fragrances” with its pure deliciousness. The unisex parfum version was released in 2020 and while not as busy as the original, it’s just as seductive.

It makes a gorgeously decadent statement from the start with a large helping of truffles – animalic and musky. Juicy plum brings a touch of fruity sweetness. A combo of rich boozy rum and tropical florals – ylang-ylang and orchid – leads the way to the earthy patchouli drydown.

It’s been hyped to the max but justifiably so.

TOM FORD BEAU DE JOUR EDP

Originally released in 2019 as part of the Private Blend Collection, this was re-released in 2020 under the Signature Collection, making this beauty more affordable and an even more essential addition to your fragrance wardrobe.

It starts out aromatic and fresh with an overdose of lavender. The sharpness of moss and floral greenery of geranium add a layer of complexity to the composition, with hints of mint and basil in the background. It goes deeper with musky-licious patchouli and an amber accord in the drydown.

Elegance personified and with heaps of character, if this doesn’t make you feel like a dapper gentleman nothing will.

TOM FORD ROSE PRICK EDP

Let’s put aside the name, shall we? And savour this 2020 release that’s apparently inspired by Tom Ford’s private rose garden. You’re not the only one trying to picture it.

It’s all earthy spiciness in the opening, with notes of black pepper and turmeric. Three varieties of rose – May, Turkish, Bulgarian – display the queen of florals at her most voluptuous and diverse. Rose-patchouli is a popular combo and the herb gives this scent a dirty, musky edge.

Not as wild as its name suggests (where are the prickly thorns?), it’s nevertheless beautiful stuff.

TOM FORD COSTA AZZURRA EDP

In the rarefied world of Tom Ford, there seem to be two recurring motifs: the glamorous red carpet and care-free European coasts. A whole sub-range of Private Blend has already been devoted to the pleasures of Amalfi and Positano in Italy.

In 2021, Costa Azzurra migrated from the Private Blend Collection to the Signature range.

It’s a classy aquatic scent that evokes the French Riviera from the outset with aromatic notes of driftwood and seaweed infused with the freshness of lemon, mandarin and lavender.

Woody notes of cypress and oak give depth to the olfactory reverie.

TOM FORD SOLEIL BRÛLANT EDP

This 2021 release feels like a posh vacay in the sun from start to finish. At the price, I wouldn’t expect anything less.

The summer mood begins in familiar fresh and spicy territory, with soft notes of pink peppercorn, mandarin and bergamot. There’s then the sweet ’n sunny heat from notes of honey and orange blossom absolute. It’s in the drydown that this scent really comes into its own. An amber accord mingles with spicy resins, while the seductive smoke of incense is accentuated by vetiver. A hint of leather adds to the pleasure-seeking ambience.

The burnt vibe of this EDP won’t appeal to everyone, so definitely try before you buy.

Best Recent Tom Ford Releases - Tom Ford Soleil Brûlant EDP 2

CHOICES: Soleil Brûlant and Beau de Jour are my personal favourites in this best recent Tom Ford releases post.

TOM FORD ÉBÈNE FUMÉ EDP

I’ll forgive Tom Ford for sounding like Gwyneth Paltrow in the description for this fragrance on the brand’s website – “mindfulness meets opulence” – because this most recent addition to the TF empire is beautifully rich.

The fresh pine-ish smoke of palo santo (“holy wood” in Spanish) stands out in the opening. This wild tree that’s native to South America is burnt as incense sticks to promote emotional and spiritual purity. A leather accord is emphasised by notes of papyrus, labdanum and cade oil. The drydown is darker and resinous in character, with ebony and guaiac wood working their charms.

If you’re looking for a powerful combo of woods, leather and smoke, get your hands on this one pronto. If it makes you feel calmer at the same time, bonus.

All these best recent Tom Ford releases are available in South Africa at Woolworths.

All pics in this best recent Tom Ford releases post mine, unless stated otherwise.

December 10, 2021

Jérôme Epinette Interview: “I’m Obsessed With Woods, So You Will Find Them In Almost All My Creations

The numerous awards Jérôme Epinette has earned in recent years speak volumes about his creative and technical expertise. These include Perfume Extraordinaire of the Year for Atelier Cologne Café Tuberosa at The Fragrance Foundation Awards 2018 and Fragrance of the Year – Universal Luxury for Byredo Tobacco Mandarin at The Fragrance Foundation Awards 2021.

Jérôme Epinette - Atelier Cologne Cafe Tuberosa

Image: Atelier Cologne.

Industry accolades aside, you’ll probably know him for his quality work for a variety of designer, niche and celebrity brands, including:

Byredo Bal d’Afrique EDP (2009)
Nest Midnight Fleur EDP (2012)
Atelier Cologne Santal Carmin Cologne Absolue (2014)
Frapin The Orchid Man EDP (2015)
Vilhelm Parfumerie Dear Polly EDP (2015)
Ellis Brooklyn Myth EDP (2016)
Floral Street Black Lotus EDP (2017)
Olfactive Studio Flash Back In New York EDP (2018)
Zara Vibrant Leather EDP (2018)
Commodity Velvet EDP (2018)
Ariana Grande Thank U, Next EDP (2019)
Guess Seductive Noir Homme EDT (2019)

Born and raised in Burgundy, France, Jérôme Epinette joined the French fragrance and flavour company Robertet in 2003 after completing his studies, which included a Master’s in Biochemistry.

His creations for Swedish niche brand Byredo established his perfumer credentials, with other companies quickly lining up to get a piece of his distinctive magic.

Now based in New York City, the 46-year-old speaks to Fragoom about where it all started, his love of woods and working with Ariana Grande.

WHO OR WHAT PLANTED YOUR PASSION FOR PERFUMERY?

My mom, who owned perfumes stores in Burgundy when I was young. It gave me her passion for them and allowed me to discover the world of perfumes.

YOU STUDIED AT THE GRASSE INSTITUTE OF PERFUMERY. WITH HINDSIGHT, WHAT ONE THING DO YOU DO YOU WISH THEY HAD TAUGHT YOU THAT YOU HAD TO LEARN FOR YOURSELF?

I had everything I needed to start there, from discovering and remembering a lot of synthetic and natural ingredients, to visiting fields and factories to understand the harvests and the technology behind them. Experience follows when you join a company.

Jérôme Epinette - Guess Seductive Noir Homme EDT

Image: Guess.

TELL US ABOUT THE FIRST FRAGRANCE YOU CREATED AS A PROFESSIONAL PERFUMER AND YOUR THOUGHTS ON IT NOW.

I created Montblanc Femme Individuelle EDT the first year I joined Robertet [2004]. Michel Almairac, my mentor, helped me realise this first fragrance. It is still relevant, as it was a gourmand chypre, a very popular family as of right now.

Jérôme Epinette - Montblanc Femme Individuelle EDT

Image: Montblanc.

YOU’RE VP FINE FRAGRANCE PERFUMER AT ROBERTET. WHAT DOES IT INVOLVE?

It’s a more global role, making sure all the perfumers have access to internal and external resources. I am now more involved in new processes on naturals ingredients.

IS THERE A DISTINCTIVE JÉRÔME EPINETTE STYLE? OR IS IT MORE ABOUT THE CLIENT BRIEF?

Every single perfumer has their own signature, and it comes from the ingredients they love to use. I am obsessed with woods, so you will find them in almost all my creations.

YOU’VE CREATED SEVERAL FRAGRANCES FOR BRANDS SUCH AS ATELIER COLOGNE, BYREDO, VILHELM PARFUMERIE AND ZARA. IS THAT HOW YOU PREFER TO WORK?

For Zara, creating several fragrances for the company makes it easy to understand each new project.

For niche brands, I enjoy collaborating with those clients very much, because there is a close connection between myself and the owners of the houses. I feel I am part of the brand and that motivates me to come up with something unique.

Jérôme Epinette - Zara Vibrant Leather EDP

Image: Zara.

HOW DID YOU WORK WITH ARIANE GRANDE TO CREATE THANK U, NEXT AND GOD IS A WOMAN?

As soon as I started working closely with her, you know more about what she likes and what could be relevant for her and her brand.

We had specific ideas that we presented to her through luxe brands. She is passionate about perfumes and incredibly involved in the creative process so as soon as she loves something or sees the potential, she will go for it.

Jérôme Epinette - Ariana Grande Thank U, Next EDP

Image: Ariana Grande Fragrances.

CONGRATS ON YOUR RECENT FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION UK AWARD FOR FLORAL STREET ARIZONA BLOOM (BEST INDEPENDENT FRAGRANCE). WHAT MADE THAT PROJECT DIFFERENT FROM OTHERS?

Every project is different. Michelle Feeney, Floral Street owner, had a specific idea and presented it to me. That close collaboration eased the creating process and we produced a more gender-neutral scent.

WHAT PROJECT HAVE YOU JUST COMPLETED THAT YOU CAN SHARE WITH US?

Byredo Mumabi Noise EDP.

APPARENTLY, YOU CONSIDERED A CAREER IN WINE. IS THAT SOMETHING YOU STILL FIND TIME TO ENJOY?

Yes, every summer I spend time in France testing and collecting wines.

Byredo fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

December 3, 2021

Acqua di Parma: The Best Fragrances From The Always-Elegant Italian Brand

From its founding in 1916 in Parma by Carlo Magnani, Acqua di Parma fragrances have been identifiable with all things elegantly and luxuriously Italian. Founder Signor Magnani (pictured, below) set the stylish tone by spraying a handkerchief with his debut fragrance Colonia and then slipping it into his pocket. It doesn’t get more “la dolce vita” than that.

Image: Acqua di Parma.

It wasn’t always sunny skies. Although admired by Hollywood stars such as Cary Grant and Audrey Hepburn, the company had to be rescued by prominent Italian businessmen Diego Della Valle (Tod’s), Luca Cordero di Montezemolo (Ferrari) and Paolo Borgomanero (La Perla) in the 1990s.

“The fragrance lines mostly feature high-quality variations on the citrus theme.”

Now part of the LVMH luxury group, Acqua di Parma is a thriving business with fragrance, bath, body, candle and barber ranges. The fragrance lines – Colonia, Blu Mediterraneo, Signatures of the Sun, Le Nobili and Note di Colonia – mostly feature high-quality variations on the citrus theme. All are infused with the brand’s classic and chic style.

There’s more to the luxury brand than Colonia. From this all-time classic to lesser-known releases, I take you through this quintessential Italian company. My only complaint about this remarkably consistent brand is that it often doesn’t divulge its perfumers.

ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA EAU DE COLOGNE

More than a century after its launch in 1916, Colonia is still one of the best sophisticated fragrances on the market. A lot of that has to do with the way this cologne conjures all sorts of images of the good life, Italian style.

It begins with a deliciously sharp-ish flourish of Sicilian citrus notes (lemon, orange, bergamot). A distinctive opening that’s impossible to resist. The heart goes into more herbal territory with lavender, verbena and rosemary notes, while Bulgarian rose enhances the overall freshness. These eventually give way to a base of subtle, yet uplifting vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli notes.

An essential part of any fragrance wardrobe.

ACQUA DI PARMA BLU MEDITERRANEO MANDORLO DI SICILIA EDT

A gourmand-ish Acqua di Parma? And before I get carried away with myself, this is not a full-on gourmand as we know it, or even as my nose experiences it. After all, the Italian brand that’s known for its timeless scents wouldn’t indulge in such styles in a tacky manner.

Launched in 1999 and from the always-rewarding Blu Mediterraneo range, Mandorlo di Sicilia celebrates the Sicilian way of life.

Of course, it opens with sunny, citrus-centric notes, but in a subtler style than usual, while star anise introduces the “edible” factor. This EDT is headlined by softly sweet green almonds, and ylang-ylang brings floral fruitiness. The other big character in this composition is vanilla. Only the best Madagascan creaminess is partnered with musk in the drydown.

It’s all done in seemingly effortless ADP style. Superba!

ACQUA DI PARMA BLU MEDITERRANEO CIPRESSO DI TOSCANA EDT (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

This 2005 release must be one of the most distinctive scents I’ve smelled from the Blu Mediterraneo Collection. Some might even call it “challenging”.

An Italian take on the fougère, it opens with rich notes of star anise and elemi, with the brand’s trademark citrus notes in the background. The heart is herbal and aromatic, with lavender and clary sage taking the lead. I’m sure I detect a big dose of basil, although it’s not officially listed.

Notes of cypress and pine in the drydown add to the overall multi-faceted and evocative celebration of Tuscany.

ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA ESSENZA EAU DE COLOGNE

Launched in 2010 and billed as a modern interpretation of the classic original, Essenza isn’t a radical reworking, but rather a case of different emphases.

Neroli and grapefruit are more pronounced in the opening, and the aromatic aspect has been toned down slightly. This version feels fuller than the original while losing none of its uplifting freshness.

It’s seriously good stuff. Many of its fans think it’s even better than its illustrious ancestor.

ACQUA DI PARMA OUD EDP

This intriguing scent, with its contrasts of refreshing citrus and deep oud, was originally launched in 2012 as Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud Eau de Cologne Concentrée in the Ingredient Collection. It’s now part of the Signatures of the Sun Collection.

The citrus notes of bergamot and orange are followed quickly by the oud. Warm, sensual and smooth, it’s a refined take on the theme. It’s complemented by a strong and silky leather accord. The coriander note adds a nice spicy touch. The base adds to the feeling of warmth, with the notes of cedarwood, Indonesian patchouli and sandalwood in perfect harmony.

You might think the combination of citrus and oud will be a total mess, but if you want a smart oud fragrance with a difference and that’s not too in your face, this is the ideal choice. Leather, from the same collection, is also superb.

ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA CLUB EAU DE COLOGNE

Launched in 2015, Club is the most barbershop-ish of all the Colonia flankers so far.

There’s plenty of sunny citrus in the opening, including bergamot, neroli and Sicilian lemon notes. But what really stands out is the mint. Cool and fresh, it gives this scent a green profile.

A note of galbanum brings pleasing sharpness to the mix, while lavender and vetiver keep it green and clean.

ACQUA DI PARMA PEONIA NOBILE EDP

I wouldn’t have said peony is one of my favourite notes. Until I came across Acqua di Parma Peonia Nobile. It’s from the brand’s Le Nobili Collection, which also includes highly recommended Rose and Magnolia perfumes.

Launched in 2016, it opens with the fruity rosiness of raspberry spiced with black pepper. It’s unusual for an ADP not to open with citrus notes. But there’s lots of freshness to go around in the form of peony, Turkish rose and freesia notes. Clean musk and an amber accord complete this floral-fantastic scent that’s sweet in a sophisticated way.

Look out for Iris Nobile EDP, which was unfortunately discontinued.

ACQUA DI PARMA NOTE DI COLONIA I EAU DE COLOGNE

This 2016 release is from the lesser-known Note di Colonia range, which is inspired by various Italian operas.

A celebration of Giuseppe Verdi’s La Traviata opera, it starts off in recognisable Acqua di Parma territory with citrus notes of bergamot and neroli. Florals come through next, with notes of damask rose and violet bringing powderiness, while lavender adds a touch of aromatic appeal. Classic woodiness is provided by the notes of cedar and patchouli in the drydown. There’s a slight bitterness throughout this scent, which gives it complexity.

Yes, it’s more expensive than the average Acqua di Parma, but the quality is top-notch, plus it comes in a 150ml bottle.

ACQUA DI PARMA VANIGLIA EDP

Vanilla fragrances are all too often icky-sweet, reminding one of cheap candles. But Acqua di Parma Vaniglia (from the Signatures of the Sun Collection) is not your ordinary vanilla scent.

This 2019 EDP opens with the warmth of citrus notes, in particular bergamot, mandarin and neroli. They are given a light and airy treatment. The floral heliotrope brings a nutty quality.

The vanilla makes itself known early in the fragrance’s progression. The best variety from Madagascar has clearly been used. It’s creamy and dreamy. There’s a slight hint of jasmine sambac too, which adds to the soft sweetness. Notes of cedarwood and musk in the drydown conclude a deliciously suave experience.

ACQUA DI PARMA QUERCIA EDP

Acqua di Parma does some of the best citrus openings in the biz. That’s been a given since its founding in 1916 with Colonia. So Quercia might be a surprise to those who associate the brand only with sunny Italian skies.

Sure, this 2019 EDP begins in typically bright mode, with notes of lemon, bergamot and petitgrain. It starts to change with the appearance of the spice of pink pepper and cardamom notes. And then takes on a darker character that’s true to its inspiration of walking through an oak-tree forest (“quercia” = oak tree in Italian).

Notes of oakmoss, cedar and patchouli create a suitably damp, earthy and woody feel in the drydown.

ACQUA DI PARMA OSMANTHUS EDP

Launched in 2019, this EDP is fabulously floral and unisex at the same time. Promise.

Slightly bitter neroli meets sweet green mandarin in the intro. Both have honeyed citrus undertones. Peony maintains the freshness, while silky ambrette gives it a natural musky vibe. Pink pepper, with a hint of rosiness, accentuates the floral vibe in a fresh and spicy way.

The osmanthus is richly fruity, with milky accents of apricot and peach. Its sensual character is complemented by a tinge of earthy patchouli, without becoming unbearably sweet.

Acqua di Parma fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics and Woolworths.

Month: December 2021