Many niche fragrance brands flirt with the idea of art and perfume (the “is perfume art?” debate won’t be explored here). M.Micallef have made it a core part of their ethos, and the recently launched M.Micallef Art Collection 2020 epitomises their approach.
The company was founded by Martine Micallef and her husband Geoffrey Nejman in 1996 in Grasse. Since then it has released a steady stream of luxurious fragrances without compromising on quality, in close collaboration with perfumer Jean Claude Astier. Collections include Les Exclusifs, Ananda, Jewel, Mon Parfum and Secrets of Love (pictured below).
Images: Supplied.
For M.Micallef Art Collection 2020, self-proclaimed “artistic soul” and the brand’s creative director, Martine Micallef, worked with Azerbaijani artist Ruh Zadeh. The result? A work of art, from the exquisite box to the bottle. Inspired by his artwork, Martine hand-painted all 2 000 bottles for this true limited edition.
Artistic Collaborator: Ruh Zadeh. Image: Supplied.
The scent itself was something of a surprise when I first started wearing it. When I received my vividly coloured bottle (it was sent to several other bloggers too), my brain said, “Hot florals”, for some reason.
However, what I’ve been getting from the opening is a crisp green take on mandarin orange, star anise and bergamot notes. The coolness keeps on coming in the form of fresh and powdery violet, with a hint of earthy nutmeg in the background. Then there’s a slight shift to a warmer, more sensual mood when cashmere wood comes through. Its muskiness is complemented by a leather, patchouli and oakmoss accord in the woody drydown. It’s a minimalist composition, in which Astier’s creative and technical skills are evident. Having spent a month or so enjoying this EDP, Zadeh’s artistic interpretation of it makes more sense to me now.
5 QUICK QUESTIONS FOR MARTINE MICALLEF
How do you and your husband work together?
I oversee artistic and olfactive development, and Geoffrey is in charge of finance and administration. The best duo team!
How did you meet Ruh Zadeh and what made this collaboration different from previous ones?
I met him during a M.Micallef event in Baku [the capital of Azerbaijan]. There was an immediate liking for each other and artistic admiration. I was seduced by his work and culture.
PERFUME COUPLE: Geoffrey Nejman and Martine Micallef. Image: Supplied.
Jean Claude Astier (pictured below) is almost your in-house perfumer. Why does this relationship have such longevity?
From day one, he was our perfume mentor. We both developed a passionate collaboration to create an international signature for the brand. He has always been wonderfully receptive to my intuitions, a great interpreter, and writes a formula like a music composer. This challenging friendship is for ever.
Have you started planning the Art Collection for 2021?
Yes, I have already signed a new feminine collaboration. It’s innovative and, at this stage, secret…
The company turns 25 next year. How you will celebrate that achievement?
With a major launch named Edenfalls. Our intention is to share a happy celebration with all our distributors and clients throughout 2021.
M.Micallef Art Collection 2020 retails for €245 on the brand’s website.
I want to try more from this house. I enjoyed Ylang in Gold. Beautiful bottles. Great post as always, Rich.
Thank you, Daniel. M.Micallef is definitely worth a sample. Ylang in Gold is such a good one.
Thanks for the review, cool pictures and making me discover the Micallef art collection. I love fragrances that have a story of collaboration with other art forms. I’ve always wanted to own their Gaiac, maybe it’s time to go for it now.
Thank you for the lovely feedback, Nana. Me too, from music to design. I’v heard great things about Gaiac, so I would say definitely go for it.