There aren’t that many fragrance companies that can celebrate 150 years in the biz. But then Penhaligon’s isn’t just any brand. It has come to represent the best of British heritage since it was founded in 1870 by William Penhaligon. As you can imagine, I had a really hard time narrowing this list down to just 10 best Penhaligon’s fragrances. But I hope that it will give you a good idea of the top-notch quality and creativity on offer.
HERITAGE: William Penhaligon founded his company in 1870. Image: Penhaligon’s.
What started out as a barbershop has evolved into a Puig-owned company that niftily balances tradition and modernity, with three royal warrants along the way.
The company’s debut fragrance, the woody-floral Hammam Bouquet, was launched in 1872 and remains a best-seller to this day.
You will notice that many of the fragrances on this list are recent releases. Proof that Penhaligon’s is not just trading on its illustrious heritage.
Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.
Do you have any best Penhaligon’s fragrances?
Penhaligon’s Blenheim Bouquet EDT
I begin my best Penhaligon’s fragrances list with this absolute classic. Originally launched in 1902, it was created for the Duke of Marlborough, according to the brand’s website, and has lost none of its charm over the decades.
Interestingly, on a technical level, it has no heart notes. But it’s the super-refined opening of lemon, lime and lavender notes that keeps me coming back for more. That, and the drydown of pine, musk and black pepper notes.
It’s officially a male fragrance. But you know better than to be limited by such things, especially in spring and summer when it’s the ideal tonic for the heat.
Penhaligon’s Halfeti EDP (Christian Provenzano)
There’s no shortage of quality oud fragrances on the market, but it’s this best-seller that always gets my attention.
Inspired by the Turkish town of Halfeti, this 2015 release has a very brief fresh opening, courtesy of grapefruit, green and artemisia notes. It then moves rapidly into more heady territory when the notes of cumin, nutmeg, rose and saffron come into play. Oud is the centrepiece of the fragrance and is very ably assisted by notes of leather, amber, vanilla, tonka and sandalwood.
This EDP is rich, warm and intense in all the right ways.
Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling EDT (OLIVIER CRESP)
Launched in 2011, Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling is inspired by the quality of London dry gin.
Juniper berries, which give gin its distinctive style, open this unisex EDT in style. But there’s more to this modern boozy classic than its gin intro. A cocktail of citrus (orange), spices (black pepper and cardamom), herbs (angelica) and a hint of sugar all complement each other.
It’s more of a skin scent, so if you only go for power performers, this one might not be for you. But you will be missing out on a fragrance that develops beautifully on the skin.
PENHALIGON’S THE UNCOMPROMISING SOHAN
A humorous take on the idea of the fragrance family, the Penhaligon’s Portraits collection was launched in 2016. It includes an assortment of EDPs named after delightful characters, including Clandestine Clara, Heartless Helen and The Bewitching Yasmine.
I love this 2017 release for its big, bold and powdery rose opening, with spicy pink pepper in the background. I don’t pick up much of the listed vetiver, but all is forgiven when the dynamic between the rose and Laotian oud (one of the best varieties) is so gorgeous. Sandalwood adds to the delicious oriental mood.
It’s on the pricey side, but the exquisite packaging is part of the deal.
PENHALIGON’S ELISABETHAN ROSE EDP
Inspired by the Tudor rose and the union of the houses of York and Lancaster, this 2018 release is one of the most distinctive rose fragrances I’ve smelled in a long time.
Its unusual character is evident right from the nutty opening notes of hazelnut leaf and almond oil. Cinnamon adds to the warmth. The queen of florals dominates the heart of the scent, in particular rose centifolia oil and rose absolute. Their fruity potency is accentuated by red lily.
Eventually settling on a base of woody, musk and vetiver notes, it’s powerful stuff, so one or two sprays will more than do.
Penhaligon’s Iris Prima EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)
Looking for a super-elegant iris fragrance created by one of the world’s top perfumers? Then this 2013 release is for you.
It begins in fresh ’n spicy mode with notes of bergamot and pink pepper, and then transitions to the star of the show. This iris is full of powderiness and is partnered with a dose of jasmine, which has a slight animalic quality.
That animalic vibe is further developed in the drydown where an oh-so-smooth leather note predominates. Its creaminess is enhanced by woody notes of sandalwood and vetiver.
PENHALIGON’S ENDYMION CONCENTRE EDP
Penhaligon’s Endymion Cologne is a lavender classic. But the Concentré version gets my vote, as it offers greater depth and longevity.
It opens with freshly elegant notes of bergamot and lavender, which give it a captivating herbal-citrus character at first. This 2016 release then takes a floral direction with the addition of a geranium note, which builds on the initial freshness. A waft of coffee brings an intriguing twist and contrast to the proceedings. A soft suede mood permeates the EDP and reinforces its timeless appeal.
It’s too good to be monopolised by men only.
PENHALIGON’S LOTHAIR EDT (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)
Wow! That’s my response every time I wear this multi-faceted 2014 release. I’m sure you will feel the same way when you sniff it out.
It’s from the brand’s Trade Routes Collection, which is inspired by all the exotic ingredients that arrived in London at the end of the 19th century. And boy, does this deliver on the unusual front!
Aromatic juniper berries set the tone in the opening, but there are also accents of grapefruit, cardamom, red berries and fig leaf to tease the imagination. Notes of fig milk, black tea and lavender stand out in the heart of the EDT. The olfactory pleasure keeps on coming in the drydown that features a perfect union of vanilla, ambergris and woody notes.
PENHALIGON’S AS SAWIRA EDP (CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO)
This 2015 release is another treasure from the brand’s Trade Routes Collection. Taking its inspiration from the abundance of opulent goods to be found in a souk (Arabian bazaar), it’s a beautifully executed woody EDP.
Opening notes of saffron, artemisia and absinthe create a rich and intoxicating ambience. The intensity progresses to the heart of the fragrance, featuring a melange of floral and spice notes, in particular rose, carnation, cardamom and cloves.
There’s a lot going on in the complex drydown, but there’s no mistaking the contribution of oud, myrrh, sandalwood and amber to the overall sensuality.
PENHALIGON’S ARTEMISIA EDP
After all that full-on opulence, I complete my round-up of the best Penhaligon’s fragrances with the understated luxury of this 2002 release.
A softly sweet note of nectarine sets the tone, with a touch of greenery in the background. Violet infuses the heart of the fragrance with a delectable powderiness, while notes of jasmine tea and lily-of-the-valley provide floral and green nuances respectively.
An almost caramel-y vanilla (without being gourmand-ish) is complemented by a large dose of seductive musk and creamy sandalwood in the drydown.
All of the fragrances on this best Penhaligon’s fragrances list are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.
A nice range!
I have The Coveted Duchess Rose, and if I were to get another one from Penhaligon’s, it would probably be Savoy Steam.
Big thank you! Both the ones you mention are great options too. I might have to do a best 20 Penhaligon’s fragrances list.
Great overview Rich. I have many favourites from Penhaligon’s. Juniper Sling, Endymion (I need to try the heavier version) and Sartorial are favourites. I like Much Ado About The Duke from the Portraits collection. Stunning photos by the way.
Thank you for the compliments, Daniel. Always appreciated. The original Endymion is a lavender classic and Sartorial should have been on my list. I could easily have done the best 20.
Great post! Both Sohan and Halfeti are winking their eyes at me, thanks to your views on each.
Big thank you! Those are both super choices. Hope you get to try them soon.
Enjoyed the post. Now I want to try Lothear.
Unfortunately, Penhaligon’s hasn’t survived in the shopping mall close to where I live, so now it’ll be harder for me to test their perfumes.
I bought Juniper Sling for my vSO, he likes it, and I enjoy it on him. In my collection I have LotV (I was given it as a gift, I like it but don’t love), Ostara (I don’t understand why it got discontinued) and Tralala (same). With Portrait collection I like bottles more than perfumes, but I would have not refused 2-3 of them for half the price.
Which one is your favorite?
Big thank you, Undina. Hope you find a way to test more Penhaligon’s fragrances. Juniper Sling is a lovely boozy choice.
The bottles for the Portraits Collection are top-notch. I haven’t kept up with all of them, so can’t say at this stage which one is my favourite. But I do love Roaring Radcliff, Much Ado About The Duke and The Tragedy of Lord George. I’ve heard great things about the Coveted Duchess Rose and Clandestine Clara, so those are next on my must-smell list.