Fruity Fragrances Mix (Who Says They’re All Too Sweet)

Fruity Fragrances

Styles come and go, but the popularity of fruity fragrances (in particular fruity florals in recent years) shows no signs of abating. There’s a huge variety of fruity fragrances on offer. Popular notes include peach, pear, plum, fig, apricot, black currant and lychee. More exotic options include goji berries, maninka and dragon fruit.

This list does not include citrus fragrances, as justifiably they belong to a whole category in themselves. Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Do you have any favourite fruity fragrances?

Fruity Fragrances

DIPTYQUE FLORABELLIO EDT* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

The Paris-based niche fragrance house has been producing standout scents since the 1960s. Launched in 2015, Florabellio is an unusual, yet softly evocative scent. Strictly speaking, it’s a floral scent, but it’s got fruity nuances, hence its inclusion on this list.

It opens with marine and sea salt accents, with a hint of herbal fennel in the background. These blend seamlessly with apple blossom and osmanthus (with its apricot qualities). A waft of coffee is discernible throughout.

It’s a great example of how contrasts can be treated in a subtle and sophisticated way.

Fruity Fragrances

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PREMIER FIGUIER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

Diptyque Philosykos is seen by many people as the gold standard of fig perfumes. But it would be remiss of me not to also point you in the direction of the first fig fragrance, Premier Figuier. Both were created by the same perfumer.

Launched in 1994, it brilliantly captures its inspiration of lying under the shade of a fig tree in sunny Provence. It begins in fresh, green territory with a note of fig leaf that’s followed by ripe fig. A milky, woody ambience is created through a combination of almond milk, sandalwood and coconut notes.

Want a more intense and darker fig experience? Then try L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier Extrême EDP.

Fruity Fragrances

FREDERIC MALLE LE PARFUM DE THERESE EDP* (EDMOND ROUDNITSKA)

We can thank Edmond Roudnitska for classics such as Dior Diorissimo, Eau d’Hermès and Femme Rochas. We can also thank him for this innovative composition that was originally created in the 1950s. The legendary French perfumer produced it for the exclusive use of his wife, Thérèse. She gave the formula to Frédéric Malle when he launched his niche fragrance company at the beginning of the century.

Opening with fresh notes of melon and cucumber, it richens with the appearance of prune, rose and jasmine notes. It eventually settles on a woody base of patchouli and vetiver.

Complex and intriguing, it’s unlike any fruity fragrance I’ve smelled before.

Fruity Fragrances

LE LABO AMBRETTE 9 EDP* (MICHEL ALMAIRAC)

This 2006 release from the NYC-based niche fragrance house is all the proof you need that fruity fragrances needn’t be sticky sweet. They can actually be clinical, cool and as chic as hell.

Ambrette (also known as musk mallow) is a natural form of musk. It’s undoubtedly the star of this scent show, but the mix of citrus and fruit (particularly pear) makes a notable contribution too.

It’s a soft take on the fruity fragrances theme and gets the balance between slightly sweet and sour just right.

Fruity Fragrances

DIOR BELLE DE JOUR EDP (FRANCOIS DEMACHY)

Fruity florals have been one of the big fragrance trends in recent years, but can be strident and sickly sweet. From the French luxury fashion brand’s exclusive La Collection Privée, Belle de Jour is none of these things.

A rose note with fruity accents takes the leading role in this composition. It’s skilfully paired with dollops of juicy pear and peach, bringing just the right amount of sweetness to the sensual affair. Woodiness and powderiness give complexity to the drydown.

Although not as “sexy” as the brand claims, Belle de Jour is the epitome of Dior elegance.

Fruity Fragrances

TOM FORD LOST CHERRY EDP (LOUISE TURNER)

The American designer knows how to grab our attention with a provocative name. His latest release is called Rose Prick and then there was the none-too-subtle Fucking Fabulous from 2017. But fortunately, there’s more to his fragrances than just marketing tricks.

Launched in 2018, Lost Cherry makes a decadent statement from the opening notes of cherry and cherry liqueur. A bitter almond note provides pleasing contrast. The theme of sweet and sour continues through to the heart of the scent, featuring jasmine sambac and Turkish rose notes.

After all that excess, it behaves itself on a base of tonka bean, Peru balsam and sandalwood notes.

Fruity Fragrances

BRITNEY SPEARS MIDNIGHT FANTASY EDP** (CAROLINE SABAS)

If you like your fruit juicy and sticky, Britney Spears Midnight Fantasy is your girl. As with all Britney Spears fragrances, this 2006 release doesn’t hold back and is what you might call a guilty pleasure. The fact that it can be bought for next to nothing adds to the sense of cheap thrills.

The opening notes of raspberry, black cherry and plum announce their fruity intentions with flamboyance. They are followed by a floral display of iris, orchid and freesia notes.

Unashamedly sweet all the way to the base notes of amber and vanilla, it’s got the fun and youthful factor in abundance.

Fruity Fragrances

DOLCE & GABBANA THE ONE FOR WOMEN EDP** (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

As a floriental fragrance Dolce & Gabbana The One EDP is opulent in all the right ways. Originally launched in 2006, it’s lost none of its power and sophistication.

Fresh notes of bergamot and mandarin quickly give way to juicy notes of lychee and peach in the intro. Notes of lily and jasmine flirt with plum in the heart of the scent, while vanilla, musk and amber stand out in the drydown.

If the EDP is too much of a good thing for you, this fragrance is available in a lighter (and equally captivating) EDT version.

Fruity Fragrances

PENHALIGON’S EMPRESSA EDP (CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO)

British niche brand Penhaligon’s has been in the fragrance biz since 1870 and is known for a slew of classics, including Bluebell and Lily of the Valley. It’s from the brand’s Trade Routes Collection, which is inspired by the exotic ingredients that arrived in London at the end of the 19th century. Empressa is as luxurious as it sounds.

There’s a brief citrus opening, but that’s not why I love this 2014 release. It’s the fruity heart of peach, dewberry and cassis intermingled with floral and spice notes that makes me swoon.

Featuring notes of patchouli, cocoa, sandalwood and brown sugar, the base completes the classy mood.

Fruity Fragrances

BYREDO PULP EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Since its founding in 2006, the Swedish niche fragrance brand has made a name for itself with distinctive fragrances such as Bal d’Afrique and Rose of No Man’s Land. Launched in 2008, Pulp is as idiosyncratic as you can get.

It dishes up a rich melange of ripe fruity notes – black currant, fig and apple – with traces of spicy cardamom and citrusy bergamot in the background.

Notes of tiara flower and peach blossom add a floral flourish, while a gourmand element sneaks in in the form of a praline note.

Those with more daring tastes will love its boldness.

Image: Byredo.com.

*Available at Skins Cosmetics.

**Available at Dis-Chem.

Perfume Ads That Are Memorable For All The Right Reasons

Perfume Ads

WORK OF ART: René Gruau for Dior Diorissimo.

What is it about so many perfume ads that makes them cringe-worthy or unintentionally hilarious?

Perhaps it’s the standard, supposedly sexy voiceover in husky overtones. I’ve lost count of the variations on this theme. Or is it the clichéd imagery? Take your pick from any one of the following scenarios. Woman draped around a bottle for dear life. Square-jawed man staring intently/creepily at you. Intertwined couples staring into the distance, because there ain’t no chemistry. Now, I’m no prude. I love a sexy ad. But then I want some chemistry. And sexy often means what you don’t show.

Below are some of my favourite perfume ads through the decades. Are you ready for a dose of good ol’ nostalgia? Which are your favourite perfume ads? And your worst?

RENE GRUAU FOR DIOR

The Italian-born illustrator worked for many high-profile clients, including Balmain, Givenchy and Schiaperelli. But he is most well-known for his bold ads for Dior from the 1940s to 1990s.

The illustrator’s iconic ads for the French luxury fashion maison never fail to captivate me. As John Galliano, former Dior head designer, said in an interview with the Telegraph, “A Gruau sketch captures the energy, the sophistication and daring of Dior.” The originals, of course, are now coveted collector’s items.

CHANEL EGOISTE

A provocatively named scent deserves an over-the-top treatment. And that’s exactly what director Jean-Paul Goude delivered for Chanel’s masculine fragrance, Égoïste, in 1990. The award-winning ad entailed a partial reconstruction of the InterContinental Carlton Cannes Hotel in a desert near Rio de Janeiro at a reported cost of $1 million.

Who can forget the vision of all those pissed-off women opening and closing the shuttered doors to the soundtrack of Sergei Prokofiev’s Dance of the Knights. Melodramatic and magnificent!

KENZO WORLD

Fragrance ads can be woefully lacking in humour. However, Spike Jonze’s commercial, more like a short film, for Kenzo World in 2016 took it to new levels of wonderful wackiness. American actress and dancer Margaret Qualley deserved an Oscar for her possessed performance in this modern classic. Created by Francis Kurkdjian, the fragrance itself wasn’t bad either.

https://youtu.be/ABz2m0olmPg?t=2

DOLCE & GABBANA LIGHT BLUE FEATURING DAVID GANDY

Okay, forget what I said earlier about too much flesh in my post. The big-production ads for Dolce & Gabbana starring British model David Gandy and directed by Mario Testino over the last two decades got the mix just right.

Gorgeous locations + abundant chemistry + cheeky sense of humour + male beauty at its finest = 💙 💙 💙

CALVIN KLEIN OBSESSION

The 90s were the decade of Kate Moss and the ad that made her a star was for Calvin Klein Obsession. It was shot in 1993 on the Virgin Islands by photographer Mario Sorrenti, when the model was 18 years old. Looking back at this campaign, there’s still something so natural and unforced about it.

The fragrance was re-invented in 2017 as Calvin Klein Obsessed with never-seen-before footage from the original shoot featuring in the advertising campaign, but didn’t have quite the same impact.

Best Leather Fragrances: From The Smoky ‘N Sexy To The Supremely Smooth

Leather Fragrances

Is there anything sexier than leather fragrances with their sensual and animalic vibe? The idea of wearing a second olfactory skin is both comforting and exotic at the same time.

Leather fragrances have a long history in perfumery and were often the result of attempts to mask the overpowering smell of real animal hides due to the tanning process, according to Fragrantica.

Leather Fragrances

Modern interpretations of leather run the gamut from the hard and obvious to the more refined and subtle. As a note, leather actually doesn’t exist naturally. It’s therefore created through a combination of synthetics and/or natural ingredients, in particular birch tar.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

What are your favourite leather fragrances?

Leather Fragrances

VILHELM PARFUMERIE MORNING CHESS EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Notes: Bergamot, leather, galbanum, patchouli, black amber.

Wear it if you want: A leather fragrance with green overtones. This 2015 release from the NYC-based niche fragrance house opens with the freshness of bergamot.

It then goes in a green, semi-bitter direction with the addition of a large shot of resinous galbanum. While this note dominates the scent, there’s no missing the masculine-ish leather note, which lingers in the background throughout. The drydown is deep and earthy, thanks to the patchouli note.

The sharpness of this EDP will not appeal to everyone, so, as always, I recommend that you try it before you buy it.

CARTIER DECLARATION PARFUM (MATHILDE LAURENT)

Key notes: Bitter orange, cardamom, spices, cumin, cedar, leather, amberwood, benzoin, tolu balsam, vetiver.

Wear it if you want: A classic leather fragrance with a spicy twist. Launched in 2018 to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the classic Cartier Déclaration EDT, the parfum iteration shares some of the characteristics of the original, in particular the bitter orange and cardamom notes.

But like any good flanker, it’s a standout release in its own right. Where the original was fresh and spicy, the parfum goes in a warmer direction, with the addition of cumin. Rich, dark and full of depth, it’s complemented by a woody base that includes notes of cedar, amberwood and vetiver. Benzoin gives it a tinge of sexy smokiness.

Without a doubt, it’s one of the best designer leather fragrances on the market. I wouldn’t expect anything less from Cartier.

Leather Fragrances

TOM FORD FUCKING FABULOUS EDP

Key notes: Clary sage, lavender, bitter almond, vanilla, leather, orris, tonka bean, leather, cashmeran, amber, white woods.

Wear it if you want: A leather fragrance that’s more than just hype. Mr Ford proved once again his mastery of marketing when this provocatively named fragrance was released in 2017. However, in the process, the shock value overshadowed what is a rather appealing leather scent.

From the brand’s upmarket Private Blend Collection, this oriental opens with a strong herbal dose of clary sage oil, which has leathery characteristics, with lavender in support. The leather note that follows is paired with bitter almond oil, giving it a warm effect. Vanilla adds a hint of sweetness. That vibe continues through to the base, featuring tonka bean, cashmeran and white woods.

It’s a seamless blend that’s far more comfy and cosy than its name suggests.

Leather Fragrances

ALAIA ALAIA EDP (MARIE SALAMAGNE)

Key notes: Mountain air, pink pepper, peony, freesia, rose, white musk, leather, violet.

Wear it if you want: An impeccably smooth leather fragrance. There’s a good reason why this debut fragrance from the Paris-based luxury fashion brand was awarded the top five stars in the most recent edition of the prestigious Perfumes: The Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez.

It’s not an obvious leather fragrance. A contrast between cool and warm notes, the Tunisian-born designer wanted it to feel like a second skin. And that’s exactly what the perfumer achieved with it.

The fresh and airy opening progresses to a floral heart with nuances of peony, freesia and rose, settling on a base of leather and white musk.

Officially marketed at women, it’s perfectly unisex, so don’t let that put you off seeking out this example of superb quality.

Leather Fragrances

WIDIAN LONDON EDP* (JORDI FERNANDEZ)

Key notes: Oud, cypress, violet, lily-of-the-valley, raspberry, leather, dry amber, musk, vanilla.

Wear it if you want: A sweet leather fragrance. The gorgeous blue and gold bottle will be the first thing to grab your attention about this 2018 release from the Abu-Dhabi-based niche fragrance company that blends the best of Middle East and Western perfume traditions.

The juice is equally stylish. From the brand’s Sapphire Collection, it opens with the distinctive scent of oud. It’s a slightly sweet and luxurious treatment, which is accentuated by a big raspberry note. Violet adds an element of delicate powderiness.

The leather aspect is present throughout and gives this warm EDP a soft and smooth character. It’s supported by notes of amber, vanilla and musk.

While I don’t get the London inspiration as such, this is a beautifully crafted fragrance from start to finish.

Leather Fragrances

BYREDO BIBLIOTHEQUE EDP*

Key notes: Peach, plum, peony, violet, leather, patchouli, vanilla.

Wear it if you want: To feel like you’re in a world of old books. As its name suggests, this perfume (it was originally the Swedish niche fragrance company’s most popular candle) is inspired by the ambience of a library featuring old leather books on wooden shelves.

It’s a well-executed concept that begins in fruity territory with sweet (but not too sweet) fruity notes of peach and especially plum. The slight sweetness is further developed in the floral heart featuring a peony note. A violet note brings an earthy and powdery aspect. The leather base note completes the picture with notes of patchouli and vanilla adding to the intimate feel.

Leather Fragrances

FLORIS MAHON LEATHER EDP*

Key notes: Citruses, jasmine, vetiver, iris, saffron, leather, amber, French labdanum, musk, tonka bean, patchouli, sandalwood.

Wear it if you want: An old-school leather fragrance with a sense of history. This 2011 release is quintessential gentleman stuff.  It’s inspired by Mahón, the capital of the Spanish island of Menorca, the birthplace of the founder of this British heritage brand, Juan Famenias Floris, which can trace its roots all the way back to 1730.

It reveals its charms from the opening jasmine note featuring animalic properties. A big dose of iris adds powderiness to the composition, while saffron infuses it with a spicy leatheriness. The creamy leather note is perfectly paired with the woody aspects of sandalwood and vetiver, and warm tonka bean.

Leather Fragrances

MEMO RUSSIAN LEATHER EDP* (ALIENROR MASSENET)

Key notes: Oil of basil, fougère accord, oil of cedar leaf, oil of Siberian pine needle, oil of coriander seed, heart of lavandin, mint, oil of rosemary, oil of nutmeg, oil of guaiac, oil of patchouli, tonka bean absolute, leather accord, oil of clary sage, cypress absolute.

Wear it if you want: A leather fragrance that will pique your wanderlust. Founded in 2007 by John and Clara Molloy, Memo is a Paris-based niche fragrance house that produces top-notch scents inspired by the founders’ travel memories. Their leather fragrance collection, Cuir Nomades, includes highly recommended variations such as African, Irish, French and Italian.

The intriguing Russian Leather takes its cue from a Siberian forest. It starts its journey in fougère mode with a fern note. Siberian pine needle focuses the olfactory illusion, with notes of lavender, rosemary and mint providing herbal and green facets.

When the leather note comes through its gentle and soothing and surrounded by woody notes of cypress and patchouli.

This EDP has a fresh, clean, peppery vibe with appealing contrasts.

Leather Fragrances

*These leather fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics.

The Perfume Decade That Was: And The Awards Go To…

I thought I would let the New Year/New Decade hype die down before taking a light look at the perfume decade that was. And seeing that it’s gong season (well, in Hollywood, anyway), I’m dishing up a variety of fragrance awards. But, unlike those events in La La Land, this ceremony will be admirably short, if I can say so myself. And no teary acceptance speeches required.

These fragrance awards are by no means a definitive take on the 2010s. But hopefully it will highlight some of the key trends and perfumes of the decade in the process.

In the spirit of having fun, are there any fragrance awards you’d like to add to this list?

THE SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS (AKA SMELL OF THE DECADE) AWARD

Created by a trio of top perfumers, Olivier Polge, Dominique Ropion and Ann Flipo, Lancôme La Vie Est Belle has been a best smeller, oops, seller since its launch in 2012. Taking two of the biggest trends of the decade – fruity florals and gourmands – it’s not hard to figure out why it has been such a commercial (and ubiquitous) success. More complex than its sweetness suggests, it’s a very well-composed crowd-pleaser. Will the French beauty brand’s recently launched Idôle scale the same heights in the new decade?

Fragrance Awards

THE UNDER THE INFLUENCE (AKA PERFUME PERSONALITY OF THE DECADE) AWARD

With his media savviness, knowledge, enthusiasm and good looks, Jeremy Fragrance (real name Daniel Schütz) became the quintessential fragrance influencer in the 2010s. Revered, reviled and copied in equal measure, the German-born vlogger is now a bona fide celebrity. In 2019 he took the brave step of launching his own brand, Fragrance One. The utilitarian-sounding Office For Men and Date For Men, created in collaboration with industry veteran Alberto Morillas, have been mercilessly slated online. A spritz of schadenfreude, anyone?

Fragrance Awards

Image: Fragrance One.

THE GOOD ENOUGH TO EAT (AKA TREND THAT WOULDN’T GO AWAY) AWARD

When Olivier Cresp revolutionised the fragrance world in the 1990s with Mugler Angel little did he know that gourmands would be the olfactive family that keeps on giving and giving. Originally the preserve of female fragrances, men increasingly also wanted in on the sugar action. The result? Hyper-sweet male scents that were guaranteed to give you the equivalent of an olfactory filling.

Fragrance Awards

THE BIG IS BEAUTIFUL (AKA NICHE BRAND OF THE DECADE) AWARD

If there’s one house that epitomised the opportunities of the niche boom during the 2010s, it’s Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Launched in 2009 by the Parisian perfumer, a succession of high-profile releases – Baccarat Rouge 540, Grand Soir, Oud Satin Mood, among many others – proved that niche could be big, lucrative and top quality. Little wonder French luxury giant LVMH bought a majority stake in the company in 2017. It was part of the trend of multinationals snapping up niche brands (for example, Estée Lauder and Le Labo and Frédéric Malle in 2014, Puig and L’Artisan Parfumeur and Penhaligon’s in 2015, L’Oréal and Atelier Cologne in 2016). You can read my recent interview with Francis Kurkdjian here.

Fragrance Awards

THE RISKY BEHAVIOUR (AKA PLEASANT SURPRISE OF THE DECADE) AWARD

At a time when designer brands played it all too safe with variations on the same theme, Gucci stood out with a number of releases in the latter part of the decade. Under the creative direction of Alessandro Michele and perfumer Alberto Morillas, the Italian luxury fashion brand took much-needed risks with Gucci Bloom (2017), Gucci Guilty Absolute (2017) and Gucci Memoire d’Une Odeur (2019) and showed that designer needn’t equal boring and predictable.

Fragrance Awards

THE VICTIMS OF THEIR OWN SUCCESS (AKA BATTLE OF THE DECADE) AWARD

It all started with the launch of Bleu de Chanel in 2010, followed by Dior Sauvage in 2015. By the end of the decade, both brands had launched EDT, EDP and parfum versions of their blockbusters, which led to increasing criticism of their all pervasiveness. That didn’t stop other male designer fragrance brands having their own interpretation of the blue theme.

THE GROWING PAINS (AKA MARKET SHARE) AWARD

As any report from Esxence will attest to, the phenomenal growth of the niche/indie/artisanal fragrance market continued apace over the last 10 years. Almost directly in proportion to more discerning and critical consumers’ fatigue with over-priced, but horribly average perfumes. At its best, niche is synonymous with craftsmanship and creativity, as exemplified by brands such as DS & Durga, Filippo Sorcinelli and Memo. Let’s hope we will see more of that in the new decade.

Want a fantastic round-up of the best fragrances of the last decade? Then Persolaise’s post is essential reading.