Sometimes you want to make an indelible style statement and one of the best ways to do that is with an unusual and highly distinctive fragrance. The statement fragrances on this list are not for everyone, but they will make a lasting impression.
Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the perfume.
Do you have any favourite statement fragrances?
COMME DES GARCONS BLACKPEPPER EDP*
The Japanese fashion brand celebrates its 25th year in the fragrance biz in 2019. Blackpepper EDP is a good reminder why it is so respected for its contribution to modern perfumery.
The scent kicks off with a twist of Madagascan black pepper. It’s beautifully authentic and guaranteed to satisfy fans of the spice. It subsides fairly quickly and gives way to a combo of cedarwood and Akigalawood (the perfume compound with oud and patchouli characteristics). It settles on a warm and comforting base of tonka bean and musk notes.
DIPTYQUE OUD PALAO EDP*
Oud is one of the most precious and distinctive ingredients in perfumery. The Paris-based niche fragrance house makes the most of it in this 2015 release. Western-style oud fragrances are often toned-down versions. But there’s no mistaking its presence in this oriental EDP.
The brand claims to use the palao variety from Laos, hence the fragrance’s name. Rich, dark and slightly sweet, it’s perfectly paired with a velvety rose note, while a tobacco note adds to the seductive sweetness. The base features high-quality vanilla and patchouli. They bring earthiness to the gorgeous mix.
ORTO PARISI BOCCANERA EDP* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)
Italian perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri is best described as a maverick. He founded his company Orto Parisi in 2014 and has released eight EDPs since then. All of them are highly potent and unique statement fragrances. Be warned: There’s no middle ground with his creations.
A gourmand fragrance with a twist, Boccanera opens with hints of warm and spicy black pepper and chilli pepper. Ginger adds to the spicy effect, without overwhelming it. It doesn’t take long for the main note of dark chocolate to come through. Rich, dark and delicious, it’s complemented by base notes of sandalwood and musk.
NASOMATTO BLACK AFGANO EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)
Before Gualtieri founded Orto Parisi, he made his name with his other niche fragrance company, Nasomatto, which he launched in 2008. Black Afgano is the company’s most famous/infamous release and “aims to evoke the best quality of hashish”, according to the brand’s website.
Gualtieri is renowned for not explaining his fragrances in terms of notes, but he achieves this exact effect with a strong cannabis vibe. However, what could be the perfume equivalent of a joint is made more interesting with the addition of resins, wood, oud, incense and tobacco notes. It’s a true extrait de parfum. So best apply this one lightly and think twice before wearing it to the corporate boardroom.
GUCCI GUILTY ABSOLUTE EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)
This close collaboration between master perfumer Alberto Morillas and Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele was a very brave release for Gucci when it was launched in 2017. It’s not a get-as-many-as-you-can designer fragrance crowd-pleaser.
Its listed notes include a custom-made leather accord (WoodLeather), a natural extract of the nootka cypress (GoldenWood), three types of patchouli and vetiver. All of this adds up to create a rich, woody-leathery EDP that’s most intriguing. The deep leather vibe pays respectful homage to Gucci’s luxury leather goods heritage.
KILIAN LOVE, DON’T BE SHY EDP* (CALICE BECKER)
Much like Tom Ford’s Black Orchid EDP was originally aimed at women, but found a following among men, Kilian Love, Don’t Be Shy has done the crossover thing. Rihanna recently revealed that this is one of her favourite perfumes. One sniff of this floral gourmand from the Paris-based niche brand’s The Narcotics collection will tell you why.
A shot of citrusy neroli is followed by a bouquet of floral notes (orange blossom absolute, jasmine, honeysuckle). But it’s the marshmallow accord that makes this one irresistible. It’s sweet for sure, but so well composed, you’ll keep on coming back for more.
DS & DURGA BOWMAKERS EDP* (DAVID SETH MOLTZ)
Conceptual fragrances often fail in their execution, but self-taught perfumer David Seth Moltz is a bit of whizz in this area. This is one of his standout creations.
The story behind this fragrance is worth quoting, as it will give you an idea of where he was coming from. “Amid the transcendental woods of the 1800s, craftsmen from the Massachusetts Bay Colony built violins and bows. Old growth mahogany, burled maple shavings, amber pine rosin, aged walnut and unique secret varnishes.” It actually does open with a violin varnish note and the mood is wonderfully maintained throughout the scent with an array of woody notes that includes mahogany, maple, cypress and cedar. Resins and moss complete the evocative picture.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TIMBUKTU EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)
Taking its inspiration from “wusulan”, a tradition whereby Malian women perfume their body and hair, Timbuktu is a fragrance like no other. Launched in 2004, it has lost none of its power to captivate. It’s one of my favourite statement fragrances.
Right from the opening notes of green mango, pink pepper and cardamom, you’ll realise you’re onto something special with this scent. Incense makes its seductive way through the heart of the fragrance, which also features a textbook-perfect papyrus note. The woodiness and earthiness keeps on coming with vetiver and patchouli notes. They are slightly sweetened by a dose of myrrh. For an EDT, this is surprisingly intense stuff.
MUGLER A*MEN PURE HAVANE EDT (JACQUES HUCLIER)
The original A*Men was launched in 1996 and each edition manages to add something different to the theme. Launched in 2011, Pure Havane is a gourmand tobacco fragrance. It’s sweet from top to bottom, but has plenty of character to prevent it from becoming a cloying confection.
It opens with the rich waft of cherry tobacco that’s supported by notes of honey and vanilla. Cacao and patchouli add depth to the mix, while amber keeps it warm and cosy.
* Available at Skins Cosmetics.