Month: October 2019

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Best Statement Fragrances

Statement Fragrances

Sometimes you want to make an indelible style statement and one of the best ways to do that is with an unusual and highly distinctive fragrance. The statement fragrances on this list are not for everyone, but they will make a lasting impression.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the perfume.

Do you have any favourite statement fragrances?

COMME DES GARCONS BLACKPEPPER EDP*

The Japanese fashion brand celebrates its 25th year in the fragrance biz in 2019. Blackpepper EDP is a good reminder why it is so respected for its contribution to modern perfumery.

The scent kicks off with a twist of Madagascan black pepper. It’s beautifully authentic and guaranteed to satisfy fans of the spice. It subsides fairly quickly and gives way to a combo of cedarwood and Akigalawood (the perfume compound with oud and patchouli characteristics). It settles on a warm and comforting base of tonka bean and musk notes.

DIPTYQUE OUD PALAO EDP*

Oud is one of the most precious and distinctive ingredients in perfumery. The Paris-based niche fragrance house makes the most of it in this 2015 release. Western-style oud fragrances are often toned-down versions. But there’s no mistaking its presence in this oriental EDP.

The brand claims to use the palao variety from Laos, hence the fragrance’s name. Rich, dark and slightly sweet, it’s perfectly paired with a velvety rose note, while a tobacco note adds to the seductive sweetness. The base features high-quality vanilla and patchouli. They bring earthiness to the gorgeous mix.

Statement Fragrances

ORTO PARISI BOCCANERA EDP* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)

Italian perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri is best described as a maverick. He founded his company Orto Parisi in 2014 and has released eight EDPs since then. All of them are highly potent and unique statement fragrances. Be warned: There’s no middle ground with his creations.

A gourmand fragrance with a twist, Boccanera opens with hints of warm and spicy black pepper and chilli pepper. Ginger adds to the spicy effect, without overwhelming it. It doesn’t take long for the main note of dark chocolate to come through. Rich, dark and delicious, it’s complemented by base notes of sandalwood and musk.

Statement Fragrances

NASOMATTO BLACK AFGANO EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)

Before Gualtieri founded Orto Parisi, he made his name with his other niche fragrance company, Nasomatto, which he launched in 2008. Black Afgano is the company’s most famous/infamous release and “aims to evoke the best quality of hashish”, according to the brand’s website.

Gualtieri is renowned for not explaining his fragrances in terms of notes, but he achieves this exact effect with a strong cannabis vibe. However, what could be the perfume equivalent of a joint is made more interesting with the addition of resins, wood, oud, incense and tobacco notes. It’s a true extrait de parfum. So best apply this one lightly and think twice before wearing it to the corporate boardroom.

Statement Fragrances

GUCCI GUILTY ABSOLUTE EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

This close collaboration between master perfumer Alberto Morillas and Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele was a very brave release for Gucci when it was launched in 2017. It’s not a get-as-many-as-you-can designer fragrance crowd-pleaser.

Its listed notes include a custom-made leather accord (WoodLeather), a natural extract of the nootka cypress (GoldenWood), three types of patchouli and vetiver. All of this adds up to create a rich, woody-leathery EDP that’s most intriguing. The deep leather vibe pays respectful homage to Gucci’s luxury leather goods heritage.

Statement Fragrances

KILIAN LOVE, DON’T BE SHY EDP* (CALICE BECKER)

Much like Tom Ford’s Black Orchid EDP was originally aimed at women, but found a following among men, Kilian Love, Don’t Be Shy has done the crossover thing. Rihanna recently revealed that this is one of her favourite perfumes. One sniff of this floral gourmand from the Paris-based niche brand’s The Narcotics collection will tell you why.

A shot of citrusy neroli is followed by a bouquet of floral notes (orange blossom absolute, jasmine, honeysuckle). But it’s the marshmallow accord that makes this one irresistible. It’s sweet for sure, but so well composed, you’ll keep on coming back for more.

Statement Fragrances

DS & DURGA BOWMAKERS EDP* (DAVID SETH MOLTZ)

Conceptual fragrances often fail in their execution, but self-taught perfumer David Seth Moltz is a bit of whizz in this area. This is one of his standout creations.

The story behind this fragrance is worth quoting, as it will give you an idea of where he was coming from. “Amid the transcendental woods of the 1800s, craftsmen from the Massachusetts Bay Colony built violins and bows. Old growth mahogany, burled maple shavings, amber pine rosin, aged walnut and unique secret varnishes.” It actually does open with a violin varnish note and the mood is wonderfully maintained throughout the scent with an array of woody notes that includes mahogany, maple, cypress and cedar. Resins and moss complete the evocative picture.

Statement Fragrances

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TIMBUKTU EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Taking its inspiration from “wusulan”, a tradition whereby Malian women perfume their body and hair, Timbuktu is a fragrance like no other. Launched in 2004, it has lost none of its power to captivate. It’s one of my favourite statement fragrances.

Right from the opening notes of green mango, pink pepper and cardamom, you’ll realise you’re onto something special with this scent. Incense makes its seductive way through the heart of the fragrance, which also features a textbook-perfect papyrus note. The woodiness and earthiness keeps on coming with vetiver and patchouli notes. They are slightly sweetened by a dose of myrrh. For an EDT, this is surprisingly intense stuff.

Statement Fragrances

MUGLER A*MEN PURE HAVANE EDT (JACQUES HUCLIER)

The original A*Men was launched in 1996 and each edition manages to add something different to the theme. Launched in 2011, Pure Havane is a gourmand tobacco fragrance. It’s sweet from top to bottom, but has plenty of character to prevent it from becoming a cloying confection.

It opens with the rich waft of cherry tobacco that’s supported by notes of honey and vanilla. Cacao and patchouli add depth to the mix, while amber keeps it warm and cosy.

Statement Fragrances

* Available at Skins Cosmetics. 

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Gabrielle Chanel Essence Review

When Gabrielle Chanel EDP was launched over two years ago, it was declared “boring” by many bloggers and online reviewers. I disagreed and you can read that post here. So I was very much looking forward to the launch of its first flanker, Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP, in September 2019. As with its predecessor, it’s inspired by the maverick spirit of Coco Chanel.

SO WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN GABRIELLE CHANEL AND GABRIELLE CHANEL ESSENCE?

The new version isn’t a radical departure from the original but, like any worthwhile flanker, offers something different in its own right. I won’t give you a note-by-note comparison; suffice to say that Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP has a richer and denser character.

“Gabrielle Chanel Essence has a richer and denser character than its predecessor.”

It opens with a light and fresh sprinkle of citrus notes, while a red berry note is just discernible in the background.

There’s no doubting that this is a white floral fragrance when the heart notes come into play. Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, who also created the original, has not skimped on the ingredients. These include jasmine, ylang-ylang from the Comoros, Tunisian orange blossom and a variety of tuberose grown exclusively for the French luxury company in Grasse. Together, they create an enticingly luxurious effect with just the right amount of sweetness.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence

MASTER: Olivier Polge is Chanel’s in-house perfumer. Image: Chanel.

This tuberose deserves a special mention. It’s undoubtedly the star of the show, but it doesn’t smother the other florals. Polge is too clever a perfumer for that. It’s typically creamy, but with a refined freshness. That elegant mood carries through to the drydown, where white musk predominates, with sandalwood and vanilla in support.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence

I’ve been wearing this EDP regularly for the last three weeks and am relishing the details in this composition. Although I don’t wear fragrances specifically to get compliments, it seems many other people are enjoying it too.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence, R2 570 for 100ml. For more info, read here.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence

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Elizabeth Arden Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment Review

Elizabeth Arden Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment

I need no persuasion to try out Elizabeth Arden products, as I’ve always found them to be reliable, packed with ingredients that actually work and value for money. I’m also a sucker for anti-ageing treatments. After all, I am heading for 50 in a few months. So it was a no-brainer when the PR kindly sent me Elizabeth Arden Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment to review.

Prevage is the American beauty brand’s more upmarket anti-ageing range. A skin peel is a great way to exfoliate the skin and promote cell turnover, but can cause irritations. Elizabeth Arden Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment takes the skin peel to a new level of efficiency with a four-week programme of increasingly stronger formulas. There’s a week’s supply of product in each of the four ampules that come in a slick-looking box. The brand promises that you will see results with every week of usage.

Elizabeth Arden Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment

So what’s in these ampules? Each contains a dose of powerful skin-resurfacing ingredients. These include: polyhydroxy and alpha hydroxy acids to gently exfoliate the skin; phosphate salts to help maintain low skin pH; and the antioxidant Idebenone, which protects against ageing environmental aggressors.

As instructed, I’ve been using this product every night after cleansing and am impressed with the results so far. I’m currently on my last ampule. The tone of my skin has improved significantly and there’s a freshness to it. I don’t like finicky regimes and at first, I thought would find the mixing process a hassle, but no such worries.

This treatment is certainly on the pricey side. But for the expense, you’re getting a highly effective anti-ageing treatment that delivers on its promises. Compared to some other premium anti-ageing ranges, it’s competitively priced.

Elizabeth Arden Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment, R2 100 for 4 x 10ml ampules. For more information, read here. 

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Vetiver Fragrances: From The Fabulously Fresh To The Deliciously Sweet

Vetiver Fragrances

I love many notes in perfumery, but I have a particular soft spot for vetiver fragrances. Depending on how it is used, it can give a fragrance a distinctive earthy, woody or fresh quality. As there is no synthetic version of vetiver, the roots of this perennial grass are prized for their oil. Indonesia, India and especially Haiti are major producers of vetiver.

There are numerous fragrances on the market that claim to have it. I’ve compiled a list of vetiver fragrances where you can actually smell it. All too often this most natural of ingredients is barely present in your common garden variety scents. I’ve also not included the undisputed and more well-known classics in the genre (for example, Frédéric Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire EDP and Guerlain Vetiver EDP). Instead, this list gives you a list of other options if you also have a thing for vetiver fragrances.

Vetiver Fragrances

Where known, the name of the perfumer is mentioned in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

CREED ORIGINAL VETIVER EDP (OLIVIER CREED SIXTH GENERATION & ERWIN CREED SEVENTH GENERATION)

Notes: Bergamot, bitter orange, mandarin, vetiver leaves, white pepper, coriander, pink berries, Mysore sandalwood, vetiver, ambergris, Tonkin musk. 

While most perfumers use the root of the plant for their vetiver fragrances, Creed claims their version utilises all three parts, including the root, the heart and the leaves. Ginger is not listed in the official notes on the Creed website, but there’s no mistaking its presence in this scent with its sharp citrus opening. The vetiver comes through soon after that and lingers until the end. It’s a fresh and green rendition. The hint of precious ambergris in the base is just one of the reasons why you’ll be paying a lot for this upmarket fragrance.

Vetiver Fragrances

BYREDO BAL D’AFRIQUE EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Notes: African marigold, bergamot, buchu, lemon, neroli, cyclamen, jasmine petals, violet, black amber, Moroccan cedarwood, musk, vetiver.

Originally launched in 2009, it’s easy to understand why Byredo Bal d’Afrique EDP remains one of the Swedish niche brand’s biggest sellers. Inspired by 1920s Paris and its obsession with African culture in all its forms, there’s something very joyful and uplifting about this scent. The tone is set from the opening with its citrus opening and the notes of rich marigold and black currant-ish buchu give it a truly African quality. The smokiness of vetiver is perfectly partnered with musk in the base. It’s one of the sweeter vetiver fragrances and holds the attention from start to finish.

Vetiver Fragrances

KARL LAGERFELD BOIS DE VETIVER EDT (CHRISTOPHE RAYNAUD)

Notes: Blood orange, pink grapefruit, mint, vetiver, geranium, rose, ambroxan, patchouli, mint.

Karl Lagerfeld fragrances haven’t always been the most consistent in quality. This is one of the brand’s best in recent years. If you generally go for unashamedly earthy vetiver fragrances, allow yourself to enjoy this one’s different spin on the theme. From the brand’s Les Parfums Matières collection, it opens with fresh notes of blood orange, lemon and mint. When the vetiver comes through, it’s a cool interpretation, followed by the familiar combo of ambroxan and musk. At its best in summer, it’s a worthy and well-priced addition to your vetiver collection.

Vetiver Fragrances

ATELIER COLOGNE VETIVER FATAL COLOGNE ABSOLUE

Notes: Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, bitter orange, Tunisian orange blossom, violet leaf, plum, Haitian vetiver, cedar, agarwood.

It sounds dramatic and dark, but this cologne absolue (the Paris-based niche fragrance company’s combo of the traditional citrus character of eau de colognes with longer-lasting natural raw materials) is actually one big blast of summer freshness. The citrus opening is as crisp as they come and is complemented by a big dose of juicy plum. The woody quality of the Haitian vetiver is carried through to the cedar and oud notes. If you’re worried that it will have typical cologne performance, fear not. It says put and works it charms better than most.

Vetiver Fragrances

CARVEN VETIVER EDT

Notes: Grapefruit, lemongrass, bergamot, orange blossom, lavender, geranium, nutmeg, benzoin, cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver.

Launched in 1957, Carven Vetiver EDT is one of the classics of the genre and is not to be confused with this 2014 edition, which is a standout in its own right. It makes its mark right from the start with a lively green freshness, courtesy of grapefruit, bergamot and lemon notes. The unusual lemongrass and lavender notes amplify the clean effect. Led by vetiver, together with notes of cedarwood and sandalwood, the base is wonderfully woody.

Vetiver Fragrances

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ FOR HIM BLEU NOIR EDP (SONIA CONSTANT)

Notes: Cedar, vetiver, amber, musk, ebony.

Don’t let the short list of notes fool you. This 2018 follow-up to Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDT is more complex than that. Narciso Rodriguez fragrances are characterized by a large dose of musk and this note sits at the heart of For Him Bleu Noir EDP. It’s intensely woody and the vetiver infuses the composition with a green freshness. Perfumer Sonia Constant is well known for creations such as Tom Ford Noir Extreme EDP and Montblanc Emblem EDT. Look out for the African-inspired vetiver-dominant Epupa Mon Amour EDP from her own perfume range, Ella K.

Vetiver Fragrances

DIPTYQUE VETYVERIO EDP (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

Notes: Bergamot, lemon, Amalfi lemon, mandarin orange, ylang-ylang, rose, geranium, carrot seeds, nutmeg, clove, vetiver, cedar, musk.

Diptyque has been in the fragrance biz since 1961 and Vetyverio EDP is typical of the quality and craftsmanship that define the Paris-based niche fragrance brand. It opens in familiar fresh citrus territory, but gets really interesting in the heart, in particular the rose and geranium notes. They give this unisex scent a powdery freshness, with a light spiciness in the background. Responsibly sourced in Haiti and Indonesia, according to the brand’s website, the vetiver here is crisp and grassy. The musk note adds warmth to the distinctive mix.

Vetiver Fragrances

DS & DURGA COWBOY GRASS EDP (DAVID SETH MOLTZ)

Notes: Rosewood, wild thyme, bergamot, sagebrush, basil, rose otto, vetiver, grass, ambergris.

The list of notes above alone will tell you that this is not one of your average vetiver fragrances. But then it is a release from the NYC-based niche fragrance company whose self-taught perfumer, David Seth Moltz, has an idiosyncratic style. It kicks off with a herbal accent, courtesy of pronounced notes of thyme, sagebrush and basil. They create an utterly believable wild and natural ambience. Rose otto (oil) is produced by hydro-distilling rose petals and it adds richness to the composition. The grassiness of the vetiver is pushed to the max in combination with the grass note.

LE LABO VETIVER 46 EDP (MARK BUXTON)

Notes: Labdanum, Haitian vetiver, pepper, guaiac wood, cedar, olibanum, amber, bergamot, vanilla, cloves. 

Long before it was trendy to hero individual ingredients, NYC-based niche fragrance house Le Labo led the way. According to the brand’s website, the name of the fragrance comes from the 46 essences that were used to create it. It’s a unisex scent, but with a decidedly “masculine” profile. There’s no mistaking the rich spicy opening with pepper and clove notes at the forefront. The woodiness of this scent comes through strongly with the cedar and guaiac notes. What makes this vetiver fragrance special is its intense and sexy smoky vibe that’s given extra depth by the olibanum (frankincense) note.

Vetiver Fragrances

VILHELM PARFUMERIE SMOKE SHOW EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Notes: Pink pepper, saffron, rose oil, leather, vetiver, cedar, oud.

NYC-based niche fragrance house Vilhelm Parfumerie was founded in 2015 and has released a number of very good fragrances since then, including The Oud Affair EDP and Morning Chess EDP. Featuring notes of pink pepper and saffron, the opening is soft and spicy, followed by a smooth leather note. The luxurious rose oil adds an element of slight sweetness. Oud is the dominant note in this unisex fragrance, but there’s no mistaking the contribution of vetiver to the overall smokiness.

Vetiver Fragrances

HERMES TERRE D’HERMES EAU INTENSE VETIVER EDP (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

Notes: Bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, geranium, Sichuan pepper, vetiver, amberwood, patchouli, olibanum.

Terre d’Hermès is a vetiver great, but this 2018 version is well worth sniffing out too. It’s not a complete reinvention of the original, yet still offers something unique and complex. The original opened with a magnificent orange note, whereas this fresher one goes the slightly bitter bergamot route, with grapefruit in support. Pepper can be overpowering, but it’s perfectly balanced by the geranium note. The vetiver is certainly intense and its innate earthiness is brought to the fore with a light dash of patchouli.

Vetiver Fragrances