June 2019 - fragroom

June 28, 2019June 29, 2019

Fragrance Reviews: Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc for Her EDP, Zadig & Voltaire Capsule Collection This Is Him! EDT, Karl Lagerfeld Bois de Vetiver EDT, Bentley For Men Black Edition EDP, Zadig & Voltaire Capsule Collection This Is Her! EDP, Hugo Reversed EDT, Elie Saab Girl of Now Forever EDP, Issey Miyake Nuit d’Issey Pulse of the Night EDP

I haven’t done one of these designer fragrance round-ups this year. Not that I have lost interest in this category. Far from it. Even with all the predictability, there are always good releases to look out for. Where known, the perfumer is listed after the name of the fragrance.

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ PURE MUSC FOR HER EDP (SONIA CONSTANT)

Narciso Rodriguez fragrances are characterised by their musky character. Each time I try a new release, I’m impressed by the different twist on the dominant note. This EDP opens with another enchanting display of musk. It’s fresh and green to my nose, yet cosy and comfy at the same time. White florals amplify that effect, while cashmeran adds muskiness and woodiness to the mix. On paper, Pure Musc for Her sounds very simple, but Constant, who has produced a number of fragrances for the brand, gives it a typically elegant treatment. R1 565 for 50ml and R2 180 for 100ml.

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE CAPSULE COLLECTION THIS IS HIM! 2019 EDT (NATHALIE LORSON)

Zadig & Voltaire is one of the lower-profile designer fragrance brands. I have tried several releases from the French rock-chic label and I’ve always found them to be of a good quality. This one is fresher take on previous versions, with lemon and grapefruit notes setting the scene. Incense is a big part of the This Is Him! franchise and it weaves its way throughout this EDT. It’s not a hard-core incense note, but very easy on the nose. The smoky effect is complemented by vetiver. There’s also a lot of ambroxan going on in this easy-going scent. R850 for 50ml and R1 085 for 100ml.

KARL LAGERFELD BOIS DE VETIVER EDT (CHRISTOPHE RAYNAUD)

Vetiver is one of my favourite ingredients, so my expectations are high when I try any fragrance that claims to contain it. I’ve tried several Karl Lagerfeld fragrances of varying quality, so I was keen to see how this one measured up to some of my favourites. I generally go for highly distinctive, unashamedly earthy vetivers, but I’ve been enjoying this one’s different spin on the theme. From the brand’s Les Parfums Matières collection, it opens with fresh notes of blood orange, lemon and mint. When the vetiver comes through (it’s definitely there), it’s a cool interpretation, followed by the familiar combo of ambroxan and musk. I’ve been wearing this in the middle of a Johannesburg winter, but reckon this one will be at its best in summer. A worthy and well-priced addition to my vetiver collection. R795 for 100ml.

BENTLEY FOR MEN BLACK EDITION EDP

Some people find the idea of an automotive brand in the fragrance biz a bit bizarre, even unwelcome. But from my experiences with Bentley fragrances in recent years (the luxury brand made its fragrance debut in 2013), I can report that it has produced scents that are well worth exploring if solid masculine-profile smells are your thing. This EDP has a distinctive tangerine, pink pepper and nutmeg notes opening. There’s an earthy patchouli vibe in the middle, which is further developed by incense, moss and tobacco base notes. It strikes a nifty balance between sweet, spicy and woody. R1 395 for 100ml.

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE CAPSULE COLLECTION THIS IS HER! 2019 EDP (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR AND MICHEL ALMAIRAC)

I had an inkling from the funkily designed bottle that this would be a sweetie – and I wasn’t wrong. But fortunately it’s a sweet fragrance with an interesting twist. It opens with big notes of pear and jasmine and then a chestnut cream note makes it appearance. Sometimes listed notes mean nothing, but I can actually pick up this one. Pity I can’t say the same for the warm sand accord, which sounds wonderful. Nevertheless, it all settles very nicely on a creamy sandalwood and musky ambrette base. Prettiness all round. R1 110 for 50ml and R1 470 for 100ml.

HUGO BOSS REVERSED EDT

The Hugo range has been in production since 1995 and releases have been marked by their fresh youthfulness. The latest addition is no exception. It opens with a double whammy of citrus crispness (Calabrian bergamot and grapefruit), followed by an aromatic hit of rosemary and a soupcon of vetiver. It’s a straightforward, no-frills construction, in which you can actually smell all of the notes, that’s ideal for younger men looking for a spray ‘n go. R895 for 75ml and R1 195 for 125ml.

ELIE SAAB GIRL OF NOW FOREVER EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION & SOPHIE LABBE)

I believe in trying all fragrances that come my way, even if I am evidently not part of a fragrance’s target market. Elie Saab Girl of Now was originally launched in 2017 and must be doing well, as the second flanker, Girl of Now Forever, was launched earlier in 2019. Created by a highly regarded fragrance duo, it’s officially aimed at younger women. This EDP is a glam-girlie confection of lemon zest, raspberry, black currant, almond and vanilla notes. It’s unashamedly sweet and fruity, with a hint of tartness. It’s too sweet for me, but I can smell the appeal of this fun and youthful scent. R925 for 30ml, R1 465 for 50ml and R1 985 for 90ml.

ISSEY MIYAKE NUIT D’ISSEY PULSE OF THE NIGHT (LOC DONG)

I have a love-hate relationship with Issey Miyake. On the one hand, one of my favourite fragrances from the 90s will always be Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme EDT. But on the other, sometimes the Japanese brand is guilty of a relentless flow of indistinguishable flankers. The latest addition to the Nuit d’Issey range shares some of the woody and leather qualities of the original released in 2014, but it has much to offer in its own right too. The top is dominated by a beautifully smoky kyara incense note, followed by a big blast of patchouli intermingled with amber. It’s smooth from top to bottom, with a touch of sweetness. R1 500 for 100ml.

June 15, 2019May 14, 2020

Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP Review

Creed. The name alone is enough to elicit hyper devotion and debate among its fans that sometimes borders on the religious. Founded in 1760, the Paris-based niche fragrance house is a father-and-son business that has created numerous classic fragrances through the generations. But if you were to insist on one that captures what the upmarket brand is all about, it would have to be the wonderfully named Creed Green Irish Tweed.

Perfumer

Olivier Creed Sixth Generation created this scent that was released in 1985. Tradition is very important to Creed, so all the family perfumers through the generations are given royal-sounding names.

Olivier Creed Sixth Generation is responsible for an impressive succession of Creed classics. These include: Aventus EDP, Bois du Portugal EDP, Erolfa EDP, Himalaya EDP, Millésime Impérial EDP and Virgin Island Water EDP.

Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP - Olivier Creed Sixth Generation

IMAGE: creedperfume.com.au

There’s also much online speculation that the legendary Pierre Bourdon helped create Green Irish Tweed.

So what does Creed Green Irish Tweed Smell Like?

Some brands go to elaborate lengths to describe the inspiration behind their fragrances. Creed keeps it simple (and believable) for Green Irish Tweed: “A stroll through the Irish countryside.”

With the trio of top notes of lemon, Indian verbena and peppermint, this fragrance makes an immediate and distinctive impression. It’s bracingly fresh, crisp and clean..” If this is what a walk through the Irish countryside is all about, then let’s continue the journey…

Creeed Green Irish Tweed EDP - Irish countryside

GOING GREEN: Creed Green Irish Tweed is inspired by a walk in the Irish countryside. IMAGE: ireland.com

The heart of the fragrance belongs to a compelling violet leaf note. It builds on the fresh, green vibe of the opening. The base has a slight woody focus, courtesy of the sandalwood note, and the iris note adds an element of powderiness.

And what about the musky ambergris that’s commonly listed in Creed fragrances and part of the reason why they are so expensive? If this rare by-product of the digestive system of the sperm whale is present in this scent, it’s certainly not as distinctive as the one found in Creed Millésime Impérial EDP.

Almost 35 years since its launch, Creed Green Irish Tweed remains of the brand’s big sellers and it’s easy to understand why. It’s a unique perfume that’s signature scent material.

June 8, 2019

Memo Paris: Interview With Creative Director Clara Molloy

STORYTELLER : Clara Molloy is the creative director of Memo Paris. Image: Memo.

Travel has always been a popular source of inspiration in perfumery. And Memo Paris excels at using this trope in its perfumes and story-telling. The Paris-based niche fragrance company was founded by husband and wife team, Clara (creative director) and John Molloy (president) in 2007. Their love for travel is reflected in all of the brand’s collections: Art Land, Cuir Nomades, Escales Extraordinaire, Graines Vagabondes and Les Echappées.

“Memo Paris has especially made a name for itself with its superbly evocative Cuir Nomades collection.”

Memo, named after Clara’s fondness for collecting her travel memories, has especially made a name for itself with its superbly evocative Cuir Nomades collection. It includes standouts such as French Leather EDP, Moroccan Leather EDP, Russian Leather EDP and the recently launched Oriental Leather EDP.

MADE IN PARIS: The exterior of the Memo store at 34 Rue Cambon, 75001, Paris. Image: Memo Paris.

Memo Italian Leather EDP opens with a greenish tomato note, which immediately lets you know this is not the usual leather fragrance. There’s a big dose of creamy vanilla throughout, which is a perfect partner for the buttery leather. Notes of galbanum, tolu balsam and benzoin just add to the sense of luxury.

I have smelled many beautiful fragrances over the years. But it’s the special ones that really make an impression. Memo African Leather EDP belongs in this special category. It opens with a big dose of cardamom and saffron. The leather accord that follows is pronounced and rich and complemented by cumin, patchouli, oud and vetiver notes. It truly captures the smells of an African landscape.

I’ve tried samples of various other Memo fragrances and what stands out for me is their undeniable quality and ability to transport the wearer with their well-crafted blend of superior ingredients.

I sent Clara some questions and this is what she had to say…

What was missing from the niche fragrance market when you decided to launch Memo?

We were sincerely not thinking about markets and markets shares when we launched our brand. We were thinking about doing the most beautiful brand we could imagine with a very qualitative approach.

“I truly believe landscapes are alive and they inspire our best creations.”

Has your founding inspiration changed at all since your launch in 2007?

Memo is about travelling and landscapes. This has not changed. I truly believe landscapes are alive and they inspire our best creations. Of course, over the years my curiosity has changed. I want to discover even more remote beautiful places and even more amazing perfumes.

GOLD STANDARD: The luxurious interior of the Memo store in Paris. Image: Memo.

In what ways is Memo a luxury fragrance brand?

If luxury means quality, then we are a luxury fragrance brand. I see more myself as an independent artisan.

What is your role as creative director?

My role is to find stories.

Your husband, John Molloy, is the co-founder of Memo. Is it ever tricky working with him in both a business and personal capacity?

Is it very tricky to be married? Not for me. I love sharing my journey. Then the question of working or not working together is secondary. We have very different roles and we respect each other.

PERFUME PARTNER: Clara’s husband, John Molloy, is the co-founder and president of the brand.

What is the company’s best-seller?

It depends on the country. It could be Inlé, Irish leather, French Leather, Marfa…

I’m a big fan of your Irish Leather EDP. How did you and perfumer Aliénor Massenet go about capturing the unique “Irishness” of this scent?

Thank you! My husband is Irish, so we had a lot of pression for this perfume. We always go back to his house in Ireland where his family raises horses. Our inspiration was the wind blowing on the grass there.

All of your fragrances have been created by Aliénor Massenet. Why is she your nose of choice?

Most of them, yes. Because we can talk to each other. It is so difficult to find the right words for perfumes as they are abstract. With Aliénor, it is really easy. She gets what I am saying quickly and vice versa.

FROM ABSTRACTION TO REALITY: Aliénor Massenet has created most of the Memo fragrances.

What’s next for Memo?

A lot of novelties… Winter Palace has just been launched and we are all very excited. The subtleness of this ambery tea is beautiful.

Where do you think the niche sector is heading?

All of our competitors that started when we launched have sold their companies. There are many brands and many more to come. I hope everyone will keep in mind that niche means high standards. Otherwise there is no point in being niche.

Memo Paris fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics. https://www.skins.co.za

Image: Memo.

June 1, 2019May 14, 2020

Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud Review

Ever since it was founded in 1916 in Parma, Italy, by the super-dapper Carlo Magnani, Acqua di Parma has been synonymous with luxury and the good life, Italian style. All serious perfume-lovers know Acqua di Parma Colonia, a 20th-century citrus classic. From the Colonia versions to the Blu Mediterraneo Collection, Acqua di Parma has built a thriving business on high-quality variations on the citrus theme. Perhaps the most intriguing of these is Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud Eau de Cologne Concentrée, with its contrasts of refreshing citrus and deep oud. From the brand’s Ingredient Collection, it was launched in 2012.

SO WHAT DOES ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA OUD SMELL LIKE?

The citrus notes of Calabrian bergamot and Italian orange open this fragrance in typically uplifting Acqua di Parma style.

The oud comes through quickly after that. Warm, sensual and smooth, without being overwhelming, it’s a refined take on the oud theme. The oud is accompanied and complemented by a strong and silky leather accord, which, for some reason, is not listed in the official notes. But make no mistake, it’s a big part of this fragrance. The coriander note adds a nice spicy touch.

The base adds to the feeling of warmth with the notes of Moroccan Atlas cedarwood, Indonesian patchouli and sandalwood accord in perfect harmony.

VERDICT

Harmonious is a good way to describe this scent. Before you try it, you might think that the combination of citrus and oud will be a total mess. When you wear it, you will see how all the elements work together to produce a scent that’s eminently elegante. As a concentrated cologne, it delivers good performance, which is not always the case with colognes.

If you want a smart oud fragrance with a difference and that’s not too in your face, Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud is the perfect choice.

It’s a pity that Acqua di Parma frequently doesn’t list its perfumers, especially when they produce such good work.

PRICE

R3 375 (100ml) to R4 680 (180ml).

WHERE TO BUY IT

https://www.foschiniforbeauty.co.za/pdp/acqua-di-parma-colonia-oud-eau-de-cologne/_/A-000179AAOG2