Month: February 2019

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Grooming Goodies: Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50, Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum, Mincer Pharma VitaC Infusion Hand Cream, Dentyl Dual Action, Below The Belt Instant Clean Balls, Redken Brews Shave Cream

Grooming Goodies - Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50

There’s a reason why I haven’t posted that much about grooming goodies over the last few months. Partly, because I’ve been a slacker, but mostly because I was giving myself the time to properly use the following selection of grooming goodies. I’ve also included one product in this grooming goodies line-up for a laugh, but more about that further on in this post.

Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50 

I was first exposed to this product last year when I went to my local Dermalogica store for one of their express facials. It’s packed with anti-ageing active ingredients to hydrate ageing skin. These range from a polypeptide, glucosamine and soy combo to stimulate collagen synthesis to skin-firming tripeptides, yeast extract and phytoestrogens. In addition, this star product provides UVA and UVB rays protection with an SPF50. As with all the Dermalogica products I’ve used in the past, Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50 delivers on its promises. It also earns extra points for its absorbability and for being artificial fragrance- and colourant-free. R1 199 for 150ml.

Grooming Goodies - Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50

Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum 

A mouthful of a product name that perfectly describes my main skin concern. Retinol, a vitamin A derivative, is renowned as a highly effective anti-ageing ingredient due to its all-important collagen-building properties. Retinol can have a drying effect on the skin, so the inclusion of ceramide, with its moisture-boosting benefits, makes this product a powerful tool to combat wrinkles and lines, and boost skin texture and tone. I’ve already started seeing results. But what about the capsule format? Well, retinol is a highly unstable ingredient and exposure to sunlight and air can affect its performance. The mono-dose capsule counters these effects and means that you don’t use too much or too little of this highly recommended product among my grooming goodies. R565 for 30 capsules and R965 for 60 capsules.

Grooming Goodies - Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum

Mincer Pharma VitaC Infusion Moisturizing Hand Cream

I recently reviewed two products from this Polish brand: Mincer Neo Hyaluron Strongly Firming Day Cream SPF10 and Mincer Neo Hyaluron Intensive Reconstructing Night Cream. I was impressed with them, so I decided to give this moisturising product a go, even though I don’t normally bother with hand creams. Too greasy. Too sticky. I just haven’t felt the need to use them. I’m glad I approached this product that “protects against harmful urban environments and damage caused by detergents” with an open mind, as the condition of my hands has improved since I started using it. That would come down to the active ingredients: sea buckthorn oil, camu-camu extract and shea butter. I also like the light citrus scent of this product. R85 for 100ml.

Grooming Goodies - Mincer Pharma VitaC Infusion Moisturizing Hand Cream

Dentyl Dual Action Alcohol-Free Mouth Wash

I have dental issues, so any product that claims to gently, but effectively improve oral well-being should be given a chance to prove itself. Dentyl Dual Action uses a dual-action process to fight plaque (the aqua-based phase one removes bacteria and plaque) and freshen breath (this phase contains natural essential oils for oral moisturising). The good news is that this product is alcohol-free, so goodbye to stinging and drying out of the mouth. It also contains fluoride. I’ve been using it for over a month as part of my daily oral-hygiene routine and am hoping my oral hygienist will notice the difference when I next see her. It’s available in the following flavours: Fresh Clove; Smooth Mint; Icy Cherry and Icy Mint. R82,95 for 500ml.

Grooming Goodies - Dentyl Dual Action Alcohol-Free Mouth Wash

Below The Belt GROOMING Instant Clean Balls

Well, here’s a product I never knew I needed! But for a laugh, I decided to see what it’s about. The market is awash with female hygiene products and this product is classified as a male hygiene product for when a man’s balls need a bit of freshening up. It’s recommended for use on the groin area when a shower isn’t available to combat chafing and perspiration. I used it on those days when I was having a pyjamas-and-no-need-to-bath kind of day. Mostly, I felt a warm, tingling experience when using it, but couldn’t really detect much of a difference. Perhaps I need to use it when I am next camping at a three-day music event and bathing facilities are negligible. R149.99 for 75ml.

Grooming Goodies - Below The Belt Grooming Instant Clean Balls

FILE UNDER GROOMING GOODIES I NEVER KNEW I NEEDED…

Redken Brews Shave Cream

The American brand launched its Redken Brews range for men fairly recently. It includes a full range of hairstyling, grooming, beard and face products. As I have been balding for a long time, I decided to focus on this shaving cream. As you know, I’m always on the lookout for shaving products that make this ritual that much easier. I’m enjoying using Redken Brews Shave Cream because it’s sensitive skin-friendly and it moisturises my skin while I use it. My only gripe is the price, but then it is imported from the USA. R580 for 150ml.

Grooming Goodies - Redken Brews Shave Cream

 

 

 

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Marie Salamagne Interview: Cherishing The Atelier des Ors Creative Adventure

Marie Salamagne - Atelier des Ors

Marie Salamagne might not have “been raised in the world of perfumery”, but this hasn’t stopped the 42-year-old perfumer from attracting attention with her various creations. These range from Alaïa Nude EDP, L’Artisan Parfumeur Histoires d’Orangers EDT and Aura Mugler EDT to Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium EDP, Jo Malone Tuberose Angelica Cologne Intense and Maison Margiela By the Fireplace EDT, among others.

Since 2015, Marie Salamagne has been the de facto in-house perfumer for Parisian niche fragrance brand Atelier des Ors. She has created 11 unisex EDPs for the company.

Marie Salamagne - Atelier des Ors Aube Rubis

ATELIER DES ORS AUBE RUBIS EDP: With notes of bergamot, grapefruit, black currant, sage, violet, iris, patchouli, vetiver and praline.

In this Fragroom interview, Marie Salamagne talks about her background, love of perfumery and her work for Atelier des Ors.

Where were you born?

I was born in Paris, France.

Where did you study perfumery?

I studied perfumery at ISIPCA. It is a renowned school of perfumery in Versailles near Paris.

Where are you based now?

I work in Paris for Firmenich.

Marie Salamagne - Atelier des Ors

Did you always want to be a perfumer? 

Unlike many of my colleagues, I have not been raised in the world of perfumery. Coming from a family of doctors, after my baccalaureate I started studying medicine. At the time I wanted to be a child psychiatrist, but I quickly realised that it was not for me. I was studying chemistry when I discovered ISIPCA and the work of a perfumer. From that point it was an obvious choice for me.

“I felt immediately at ease in the world of perfumery. Everything made sense to me.”

Marie Salamagne - Atelier des Ors Bois Sikar

ATELIER DES ORS BOIS SIKAR EDP: With notes of nutmeg, guaiac wood, styrax, cedar wood, cedar needles, tobacco leaf and vetiver.

What was the attraction of perfumery for you?

I’ve always been sensitive to “smell”, but I knew very little about the craft when I started. I quickly realised that the world of perfumery suited me to a tee. More than a special effort, it takes passion and very hard work to become a perfumer. I followed my intuition and the path of fragrances. Since then scents have always intrigued me. I felt immediately at ease in the world of perfumery. Everything made sense to me.

“I fell under the spell of Jean-Philippe’s brief. We had this deep connection.”

How did your involvement with Atelier des Ors come about?

I received the first brief when the brand was under creation in 2012 from our Dubai team. Jean-Philippe Clermont [the founder of Atelier des Ors] was living in the Middle East at that time. His concept of creating this amazing collection, positioned as he said as “haute parfumerie”, was extremely appealing. I fell under the spell of Jean-Philippe’s brief. We had this deep connection, sharing the same passion and vision. That’s how it all started.

Marie Salamagne - Jean-Philippe Clermont, Atelier des Ors

PASSIONATE VISION: Jean-Philippe Clermont is the founder of Atelier des Ors.

He gave me the freedom of using the most beautiful ingredients to create his first collection made of five fragrances. These included: Rose Omeyyade, Cuir Sacré, Lune Féline, Larmes du Désert and Aube Rubis. We are still working on each of his fragrances together, in co-creation.

Did you create all of the Atelier des Ors fragrances?

Yes, I created the 11 fragrances of the collection.

What do you like about the brand?

The collection is anchored in precious know-how and reinterprets the heritage of French haute parfumerie. I select materials that bring to life the spiritual and symbolic dimensions of the creative storytelling. As I work to sublimate them in my creations for Atelier des Ors, my craft helps to reconnect fragrance-lovers to the dreams and mysterious universe of luxury fragrances.

“The collection is anchored in precious know-how and reinterprets the heritage of French haute parfumerie.”

Marie Salamagne - Larmes du Desert

ATELIER DES ORS LARMES DU DESERT EDP: With notes of incense, cypress, patchouli, guaiac wood, cedar, citruses, amber, benzoin and woodsy notes.

What was the general brief for creating the fragrances? 

The first idea was to give back to fragrance a sense of mystery and dreams. And also draw inspiration from the crafts to offer olfactory bouquets with distinctive and captivating accords. The project engages with gold, which represents the noble and eternal side of the material and the brand itself.

Marie Salamagne - Atelier des Ors Cuir Sacré

ATELIER DES ORS CUIR SACRE: With notes of juniper berries, cardamom, cypress, incense, saffron, cedar needles, leather, vetiver and cypriol oil.

How much creative freedom do you have when creating the fragrances?

Passionate and imaginative, Jean Philippe shares his creative ideas with me when we start working on a new fragrance. They are nourished by his incredibly rich experience. His professional life includes various domains of excellence where “savoire-faire” is key. Then I feel free to translate his vision into fragrant poetry. We only keep real “coups de coeur”, as we both like to only pursue rare and unique experiences. I cherish the precious moments of the creative adventure. I enjoy true mutual respect, sharing, listening and a kindred open-minded spirit.

Marie Salamagne and Jean-Philippe Clermont - Atelier des Ors

KINDRED SPIRITS: Marie Salamagne and Jean-Philippe Clermont work very closely together on the various fragrances.

One of my favourite fragrances from the collection is the very sensual Rose Omeyyade. How did you create that EDP?

Rose Omeyyade explores the captivating smell of damask rose, infused with velvet raspberry tones and intense woods, such as the mystical agarwood and gaiac wood.

Tell us more about the new White Collection.

The White Collection was released in 2018. It comprises three fragrances: Nuda Veritas, Crepuscule des Ames and Choeur des Anges. This collection is very special and creative.

White signifies purity, radiance, new beginnings. This new collection pays homage to the white space. It is very relative to art as directly inspired by the work of the artist Gustav Klimt, The Search of Happiness. It’s a monumental artwork completed for the 14th Vienna Secessionist Exhibition to commemorate the 75th anniversary of Beethoven’s death. This artwork is organised in three chapters. Each one was the main inspiration of our three compositions.

Marie Salamagne - Atelier des Ors Gustav Klimt

INSPIRATION: The Atelier des Ors White Collection is inspired by Gustav Klimt’s The Search of Happiness.

Nuda Veritas has been made for Chapter 1. It is a floral creation, representing the lightness and the beginning of a new spiritual quest for the search of happiness. The composition opens with floral notes, delicate jasmine and osmanthus, combined with ambroxan and subtle woods.

Crepuscule des Ames has been made for Chapter 2. It’s a woody aromatic fragrance, evoking the duality within all of us. The duality is expressed by the usage of very contrasted ingredients. These include: bitter and luminous citruses, energising aromatic herbs, animalic notes and an addictive patchouli.

Marie Salamagne - Atelier des Ors Crépuscule Des Ames

CONTINUITY: Marie Salamagne has also created the fragrances for the Atelier des Ors White Collection.

Choeur des Anges has been made for Chapter 3. It’s a fruity-floral fragrance, a celebration of joy, colours and happiness. It is made of blood orange, carrot seeds, with a floral heart and some radiant fruits. I have used osmanthus and a touch of honey.

Are you working on more Atelier des Ors fragrances?

Of course! We have a lot of new ideas and developments in progress. Jean-Philippe is always sharing new inspirations. This year will be very busy for Atelier des Ors.