Fragrance News Snippets Edition 4 – Jean-François Latty Dies, Armani Launches Code Absolu EDP, Gucci’s The Alchemist’s Garden Makes Its Debut, Another Flanker For The YSL Black Opium Range And Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s Gentle Gender Fluidity

Fragrance News Snippets - Gucci The Alchemist's Garden

IMAGE: GUCCI.COM

Welcome to the first edition of Fragrance News Snippets for 2019. Perfume-land never sleeps and the first launches of the year are already on the shelves. The Fragrance News Snippets I have included in this edition tell us a lot about the state of the fragrance industry. It’s all about flankers galore, gender fluidity and upmarket fragrance collections on the market.

If you come across anything news-worthy you’d like to contribute to Fragrance News Snippets, please pop me a mail at rpgoller@gmail.com.An

Fragrance News Snippets - Maison Francis Kurkdjian Gentle Fluidity Duo

IMAGE: FRANCISKURKDJIAN.COM

PERFUMER JEAN-FRANCOIS LATTY DIES

Jean-François Latty died in early January 2019. The veteran perfumer was best known for creating Givenchy III, YSL Jazz EDT and all of the fragrances for French niche brand, Téo Cabanel. He trained at Roure Bertrand Fils and Justin Dupont’s in-house perfumery school. Latty then worked for Roure, IFF and Takasago.

Original source for more info: here.

Fragrance News Snippets - Jean-Francois Latty

ARMANI LAUNCHES CODE ABSOLU

One of the first fragrances on the market for 2019 is Armani Code Absolu EDP. It’s the 16th flanker and/or limited edition in the Armani Code range, which was originally launched in 2004. Created by Antoine Maisondieu, it features notes of green mandarin, apple, orange blossom, nutmeg, carrot seeds suede, tonka beans, vanilla and woods. I haven’t had the opportunity to try this fragrance yet, so I can’t tell you if it’s a worthwhile purchase or just another churned-out flanker.

Fragrance News Snippets - Armani Code Absolu EDP

IMAGE: FRAGRANTICA.COM

NEW ADDITION TO THE YSL BLACK OPIUM LINE

And in another flanker episode, YSL launched Black Opium Intense this month. Black Opium was originally launched in 2014 and the line now includes 16 flankers and limited editions. The new EDP features notes of blue absinthe, boysenberry,  jasmine sambac, orange blossom, black coffee, sandalwood, liquorice and vanilla. It was created by Nathalie Lorson, Olivier Cresp, Marie Salamagne and Honorine Blanc.

Original source for more info: here. 

Fragrance News Snippets - YSL Black Opium EDP Intense

IMAGE: FRAGRANTICA.COM

GUCCI LAUNCHES THE ALCHEMIST’S GARDEN

Gucci has gone seriously upmarket with the launch of the Alchemist’s Garden “inspired by the art of alchemy influencing the old art of fragrance-making”. The collection is another collaboration between the Italian luxury brand’s creative director Alessandro Michele and master perfumer Alberto Morillas. It consists of seven eaux de parfum, four perfumed oils, three acque profumate and a scented candle. With a nod to the trends for layering and customisation, the entire collection ensures 48 possible fragrance combinations.

Original sources for more info: here and here.

Fragrance News Snippets - Gucci The Alchemist's Garden

MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN LAUNCHES DUO FRAGRANCE

Whether you call them unisex, shared, or (the clunky) gender neutral, they’ve been a growing trend in perfumery (although designer fragrances still have a lot of catching up to do). In an innovative twist, Maison Francis Kurkdjian has launched a duo of unisex fragrances: Gentle fluidity EDP (silver edition) and gentle Fluidity EDP (gold edition). They both have a focus on the same notes – juniper berries, nutmeg, coriander, musks, ambery woods and vanilla – but are treated differently. An intriguing Fragrance News Snippet…

Original source for more info: here.

Fragrance News Snippets - Maison Francis Kurkdjian Gentle Fluidity

IMAGE: FRANCISKURKDJIAN.COM

Mincer Pharma Reviews: Neo Hyaluron Strongly Firming Day Cream SPF10 and Neo Hyaluron Intensive Reconstructing Night Cream

Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron

I’d never heard of Mincer Pharma until recently when I started spotting it on Instagram. I’m vain enough to take care of my skin as I approach 50, so I was keen to try this Polish pharmacy skincare brand.

“I’m vain enough to take care of my skin as I approach 50, so I was keen to try this Polish pharmacy skincare brand.”

Mincer Pharma has an impressive selection of product ranges. These include Oxygen Detox, Vitamins Philosophy, Vita C Infusion, Antiallergenic, Antitiredness, Daily Care, Hyaluron, Folic Acid and Argan Life.

Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron

I was sent two products from the Neo Hyaluron line for dehydrated, mature skin: Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Strongly Firming Day Cream SPF10 and Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Intensive Reconstructing Night Cream. Both are packed with anti-ageing hyaluronic acid goodies.

Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Strongly Firming Day Cream SPF10

WHY HYALURONIC ACID IS SO IMPORTANT

The Mincer Pharma website gives a good explanation why this active ingredient is so important in the fight against ageing:

Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in all living organisms. In humans it is responsible, among others, for proper hydration and firming the skin. Spectacular effects of hyaluronic acid result from the fact that it has very strong properties of bonding collagen fibres and of binding water molecules, thus enhancing firmness and nourishment of the skin. Hyaluronic acid is not only acting deep in the skin, but it also forms a protective coating that prevents loss of moisture. Unfortunately, with age it decreases in our tissues. 

Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Intensive Reconstructing Night Cream

Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Strongly Firming Day Cream SPF10 and Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Intensive Reconstructing Night Cream contain a quartet of hyaluronic acid active ingredients for deep hydration and rejuvenation: cross-linked hyaluronate, hyaluronic acid microspheres, pillar hyaluronic acid and molecular hyaluronic acid.

Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Intensive Reconstructing Night Cream

I have used these products for more than a month and have already starting seeing results. My skin looks fresher and firmer, definitely more hydrated and (I like to think) the wrinkles are looking a tad less noticeable. These results are all the more impressive when I consider that we’ve been having a relentless heatwave here in Johannesburg for quite some time.

Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Strongly Firming Day Cream SPF10, R260 for 50ml, and Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Intensive Reconstructing Night Cream, R260 for 50ml.

Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Strongly Firming Day Cream SPF10 2

Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg – Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection

Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection - Louis Vuitton Johannesburg

For one of the major players in the luxury goods industry, Louis Vuitton’s fragrance releases have not been part of the churn-‘em-out philosophy so prevalent in the designer fragrance category. The company launched its first fragrances in the 1920s and 1940s and then not much else. That’s why the launch of the Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection in 2016 was such a big deal.

Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection - Louis Vuitton Johannesburg

In a way, the brand had a lot of catching up to do, when compared to its contemporaries. But as a luxury brand that places a premium on attention to detail and craftsmanship, it could not appear like it was in a hurry to do so.

The Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection was launched with seven EDPs for women. These included: Apogée, Contre Moi, Dans la Peau, Matière Noire, Mille Feux, Rose des Vents and Turbulences. Since then the following EDPs have been added to the range: Au Hasard, L’Immensité, Nouveau Monde, Orage and Sur la Route (all for men); Attrape-Rivesand Le Jour Se Lève (for women)and Ombre Nomade (for men and women).

Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg - Au Hasard

All of these fragrances are created by Louis Vuitton’s in house perfumer, the legendary Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud. He has created Pasha de Cartier EDT, Issey Miyake l’eau d’Issey EDT, Jean Paul Gaultier Classique EDT, Van Cleef & Arpels Zanzibar EDT, among others.

Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection - Drawers of Detail - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

IT’S ALL ABOUT SERVICE AND THE EXPERIENCE

When I first stepped into the Louis Vuitton store in Sandton City, Johannesburg, I was immediately impressed by the professionalism of the staff. Although I didn’t look I was there to shop, shop, shop, they all treated me with respect and attention.

Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection - Marco Matthews - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

AT MY SERVICE: Fragrance manager Marco Matthews writing down all of the names of the Louis Vuitton fragrances on the blotting cards.

I was particularly impressed by the service I received from fragrance manager, Marco Matthews. He gave me over half an hour of his precious time to talk me through the various fragrances in the collection. A personalised consultation is standard for all shoppers.

“Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection are not just fragrances – they are a luxury experience.”

It was abundantly clear from what he told me that Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection are not just fragrances – they are a luxury experience. And I certainly felt that while trying the various scents on offer.

Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection - Samples - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

BAG OF SAMPLE TRICKS: I was given a set of samples from Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection to try at home.

I enjoyed all the fragrances I tried. For a brand that is often associated with conspicuous consumption and logo-a-go-go, the fragrances are notable for their discreet elegance. Also look out for the travel cases and sets.

Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection - Orage EDP Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

My favourite would have to be Orage EDP. It opens with citrus notes of bergamot and grapefruit. But it’s the play between the iris, vetiver, white musk, hedione and ISO E Super that make it really intriguing.

Louis Vuitton, Sandton City Shopping Centre, Shop U26, Upper Level, Rivonia Road, Johannesburg. Tel: 011 784 9854.

Linda Song Cape Town: Launching Givaudan’s Road Stories

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Portrait

I was recently in the Givaudan Johannesburg office when I was introduced to the fragrance giant’s Road Stories project. What started out as a tourist trip to Cape Town for perfumer Linda Song turned into the launch of the company’s “scent souvenirs” initiative. After smelling the evocative fragrance accords that Linda Song created after her journey to the South African city, I knew I had to interview her.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Image

IMAGE OF CAPE TOWN: BRAND SOUTH AFRICA

Linda Song is an up-and-coming perfumer. She has already started making her mark in the industry with her recent co-creation for Tom Ford (Fougère Platine EDP). She also created RPL Maison XVIII Tubéreuse EDP, which was launched in 2017.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Broadtoothed Sagebush

UNIQUE FLORA: Linda Song examines a broadtoothed sagebush.

What is Givaudan’s Road Stories project all about?

Road Stories came about from our NY team of perfumers sharing “scent souvenirs” from our travels in an informal setting and turning it into a creative collection platform. My visit to Cape Town is the debut of the series, which originated when I was planning a trip to Cape Town purely with the intentions of being a tourist to discover the city with friends. On learning more about the region, I found that the Cape Floral Kingdom is a wealth of diversity and endemic species. I couldn’t pass up on the chance to explore and smell the thousands of plants that are only found in this small region of South Africa.

“I couldn’t pass up on the chance to explore and smell the thousands of plants that are only found in this small region of South Africa.”

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Bloodbell Heath

BLOODBELL HEATH

How did you get involved?

I pitched the idea to Emily Bond, the Head of Fine Fragrances North America. She was immediately on board and it gave her the idea to start the collection of Road Stories. I did my background research on the location before leaving on what plants I could expect to find in late summer/ early autumn. I also reached out to Dr Roman Kaiser on what olfactively interesting plants I should look out for. A distinguished, retired colleague, he’s also the originator of our Scent Trek technology, a noted botanist and an intrepid world explorer.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Bottles

When did you arrive in Cape Town?

April 2017.

How long did you spend in the city?

Nine days.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Golden Pagoda

GOLDEN PAGODA

What were you expecting to discover before you arrived?

Through my research I was already expecting a dynamic city. It would have  a lot to offer in terms of history, culture, art and design, with a backdrop of nature between the mountains and sea.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Immortelle Everlasting

IMMORTELLE EVERLASTING

What did you actually discover?

That all of the above was massively amplified in real life! Stunning vistas, extremes of dry and wet, and an extremely diverse, laid-back and cool cosmopolitan city.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Erica taxifolia

ERICA TAXIFOLIA

Who helped you make these discoveries?

I was lucky enough to have some friends living in Cape Town. They are themselves well-travelled nomads and showed us their favourite parts of the region. I used the information Roman provided, in addition to the amazing amount of information that’s available at the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens. It’s an impressive garden whose ethos is in preserving the region’s unique flora.

Linda Song Road Stories - Collection

COLLECTOR’S ITEMS: The Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town collection includes 12 accords.

Do many South Africans know about these plants?

This is my question to you as a South African! [I don’t at all.]

“They were chosen specifically with the idea of adding to the perfumer’s palette. It’s similar to adding new colours to a painter’s palette.”

The fragrances that resulted from this visit really impressed me with their unique quality. They are so enticing! tell us more about this collection.

It was a perfumer’s dream – like being a kid in a candy store. There truly are so many beautiful plants – both visually and olfactively – to the point of sensory overload! It took a lot of time to edit to the 12 accords that are in the collection. They were chosen specifically with the idea of adding to the perfumer’s palette. It’s similar to adding new colours to a painter’s palette. I’m constantly astounded by nature’s version of perfumery and that was the true inspiration. With interesting combinations of aromatic with balsamic notes, surprising notes of gourmand, floral bouquets…these scents were chosen for being uniquely beautiful.

Linda Song Road Stories - Selection Of Bottles

Will the fragrances be available commercially?

These are accords recreating what I found in nature, so they won’t be commercially available alone. But we are sharing the accords with the hope to transport both the stories and scents as staring points for a finished fragrance.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Mona lavender

MONA LAVENDER

What else did you discover while you were in Cape Town?

This is one of my favourite cities in the world! I have an equal love for nature and urban environments and this city manages to beautifully marry both. You can go from surfing or hiking in the morning to being at a gallery or museum within minutes. There’s a beautiful aesthetic to the city that falls within a large range of being local, modern, quirky, hipster and classic. There truly is something for everyone and the discovery seems endless.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Aloe Arborescens

ALOE ARBORESCENS

What perfume project are you working on now?

I’m working on developing finished fragrances with many of these accords, so stay tuned!

*All images, except of Cape Town, provided by Givaudan. 

Cheap Thrills: 8 Best Budget Fragrance Buys

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Giorgio Beverly Hills EDP

So you’ve spent more than you should have at Christmas. Or you are scaling back on your expenses and something has to give. But dealing with these financial realities doesn’t mean you have to compromise on smelling good. With this selection of best budget buys fragrances, for example, it’s possible to spend way less than you would normally do and still stand out for your fragrance finesse.

“With this list of best budget buys fragrances, it’s possible to spend way less than you would normally do and still stand out for your fragrance finesse.”

Of course, you can also keep your eyes on bargain bins, where sometimes incredible deals are to be had. And don’t forget sales where 20-50% discounts are not uncommon.

NO 4711 Original EDC

This bargain fragrance is apparently still made according to a secret recipe from the late 18th century (yes, it’s been around that long). While 4711 Original Eau de Cologne lacks staying power, it more than compensates with its uplifting mix of lemon, bergamot and orange oil. More than a fragrance, it’s a superb pick-me-up tonic. R235 for 90ml and R575 for 200ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - No 4711 Eau de Cologne

The Body Shop Activist EDt

This one has been around for over 23 years – and for good reason. A light oriental with a clean, fresh vibe, it features standout notes of green grass, citruses, amber, spices and woody notes. It doesn’t have the most impressive staying power and projection, but at the price, a couple of re-sprays is not a problem at all. While you’re in The Body Shop mode, look out for White Musk. It’s a highly rate Body Shop classic that features notes of lavender, jasmine, geranium, sandalwood, vetiver, tonka bean and, course, musk. R320 for 100ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - The Body Shop Activist EDT

Giorgio Beverly Hills edt (ML Quince, Francis Camail, Harrry Cuttle)

I’ve never been shopping on Hollywood’s Rodeo Drive in a Rolls-Royce with the top down, but this classic from the 80s would be the perfect choice for it. It’s such a happy, carefree, almost hedonistic scent. This floral features standout heart notes such as tuberose, gardenia, orchid and ylang-ylang. After all that spending, champagne is so necessary. R599 for 90ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Giorgio Beverly Hills EDP

RODEO DRIVE, HERE WE COME: Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT is one of the best budget fragrance buys from the 80s.

Rogue Love by Rihanna EDP

Rihanna has amassed quite a respectable fragrance portfolio and word is that she’s more involved in the creation of her scents than the average celeb. Her fragrances, while not in any way revolutionary, certainly deserve consideration if you’re on the hunt for budget fragrance buys. Rogue Love is a very appealing scent with fruity, floral, musky overtones. It features big hits of plum, suede, patchouli and vanilla notes. Like most celebrity fragrances, it’s sweet, but it’s handled smoothly and sophisticatedly in this EDP. R620 for 125ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Rogue by Rihanna EDP

Zara Tobacco Collection Rich Warm Addictive EDT

A seemingly simple composition of tobacco, coconut, sandalwood, honey and cedar notes, it yields so much more than its structure suggests. It’s on the sweeter side of things, but who cares when this EDT is so smooth and creamy. Zara has numerous examples of cool cheapies like it, so it would be time well spent to visit your local store or the website for more options.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Zara Tobacco Collection Rich Warm Addictive EDT

Elizabeth Taylor Love & White Diamonds edt (Carlos Benaïm)

I recently reviewed Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds as a classic powerhouse (read here). A flanker, Love & White Diamonds is inspired by the actor’s passion for flowers and diamonds. It features a citrus twist on the original, with opening notes of petitgrain, orange blossom and neroli. The heart is all floral and features notes of gardenia, Turkish rose, jasmine sambac and tuberose. Although not as complex as the original, it earns its spot on this best budget fragrance buys list for its charm and longevity. R750 for 100ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Elizabeth Taylor Love & White Diamonds EDP

Jeanne Arthes Cobra Man EDT

There’s more complexity to this woody-aromatic fragrance than its price tag suggests. It opens with notes of citrus, orange blossom and rosemary. The heart is quite unusual and features notes of ginger and angelica among the more familiar cinnamon and lavender. The base is warm and cosy, with notes of sandalwood, tonka bean and vanilla bringing smoothness. Jean Arthes is a French fragrance company that’s based in Grasse, the heartland of French perfumery. Another option from the brand well worth sniffing out is the leather-licious Colonial Club Legend EDT. R209 for 100ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Jeanne Arthes Cobra For Men EDT

Elizabeth Arden Red Door EDt (Carlos Benaïm)

Originally launched in 1989 (and now with five flankers), Elizabeth Arden Red Door EDT is still one of the company’s best-sellers. Sweet and complex at the same time, it features over 20 listed notes. The sweetness comes through from the beginning, courtesy of peach and plum notes. But it’s really the honey and abundance of floral notes (carnation, tuberose, orchid, violet, rose, freesia, lily, jasmine, ylang-ylang and heliotrope) that makes this EDP such a sweet and agreeable bouquet, depending on your preferences. R750 for 100ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Elizabeth Arden Red Door EDP

 

 

Art of Fragrance

Art of Fragrance - Hermès Concentre d'Orange Verte EDT

We all know that perfumery is an art, but what about the other art of fragrance? That is, creating arty images from fragrance bottles. In this more visually led art of fragrance post, I will share some of my examples with you.

“In this more visually led art of fragrance post, I will share some of my examples with you.”

When I’m in the art of fragrance mode, I want my images to really have an impact. Often these have quite an emotional impact, as I take great pleasure in breaking empty perfume bottles and seeing people’s reaction to them. I’ve also been trying an art of fragrance technique on my computer scanner, with intriguing results.

Art of Fragrance - Reconstruction

A SMASHING TIME

In a previous lifetime this was a bottle of Armani’s mega-seller, Acqua di Gio EDT. I smashed the bottle and shot it against a very clinical metallic service (that is, the kitchen sink). For extra coolness, I added some ice cubes.

Art of Fragrance - Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio EDT

GREEN ENERGY

I had to think a lot about smashing this bottle of the Hermès classic, Concentre d’Orange Verte EDT. Eventually I gathered the courage to do the deed. I placed the pieces on one of my own pastel colour therapy works.

Art of Fragrance - Hermès Concentre d'Orange Verte EDT

SAMPLE SCAN 1

I find samples very hard to shoot in an interesting way. So for this collection, I decided to place them on the computer scanner intermingled with some flowers and leaves.

Art of Fragrance - Sample Sunday

ART OF FRAGRANCE: Sample Sunday style.

SAMPLE SCAN 2

After smashing this bottle of Paul Smith EDT, I scatted various pieces on the scanner. I then placed some flowers to add interest to the effect.

Art of Fragrance - Paul Smith EDT

RECONSTRUCTION

I noticed I had two beautiful bottles (Hermès Concentre d’Orange Verte EDT and Armani Acqua di Gio EDT) smashed mostly beyond recognition. So the only thing to do was to create a fusion of the two. This is very much a work in progress. I plan to do a bigger piece with a number of smashed bottles.

Art of Fragrance - Reconstruction Soft