FRAGRANCE REVIEW: AZZARO WANTED

Azzaro Main Pic

The first BIG men’s fragrance launch of 2017, Azzaro Wanted, is here – well, in South Africa, at least. Judging by the TV advertising, massive window displays in my local shopping mall and heavy-handed influencer marketing, there’s a fair amount of money behind this one to ensure it’s one of the year’s top sellers.

The revolver-like cylindrical shape bottle has already generated reaction and will no doubt see a lot of Instagram action.

I am always intrigued by the type of man these big-name fragrances have in their sights, so allow me to share the following from the Azzaro website: “The story of Azzaro Wanted is the story of a Wanted man. He’s charismatic, talented and radiant, desired by women, envied by men. He boldly takes chances with complete confidence and dares to change his destiny to get whatever he desires.”

Okay, so Azzaro Wanted is definitely created to be a seduction scent. But the problem with hype is that we can easily forget what’s really important, so putting all of the above aside, is Azzaro Wanted any good?

Azzaro Second

I have spent the last two weeks living with this woody-spicy fragrance. I get a strong and appealing whiff of apple after the initial opening of lemon, before it settles into a familiar-ish tonka bean and amber wood vibe. Other listed notes include ginger, lavender, mint, cardamom, juniper, geranium and vetiver. On my skin, it fades quickly after a couple of hours, but other online reviewers have reported “beastly” performance.

While Azzaro Wanted is not a bad fragrance, it’s not spectacular either. Apart from the bottle, it does not have enough personality to make it stand out. If you are keen to buy a new designer fragrance this year, I would hold out for Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP, with its sumptuous take on leather.

Azzaro Wanted EDT, R955 for 50ml and R1 200 for 100ml, is available at selected Clicks, Dis-Chem, Edgars, Foschini, Red Square, Stuttafords and Truworths stores.

THE SUNDAY GROOMING SESSIONS

Not to be confused with some post-post-nightclubbing comedown, the Sunday Grooming Sessions are often my favourite part of the week. Relaxation does not come easily to me, so this is the one time of the week I impose some downtime on myself.

The Sunday Grooming Sessions are the perfect time for me to:

  1. Slow down and get off the busy express.
  2. Take care of myself. After all, grooming is not just about looking presentable and well put together – it’s a fundamental act of self-care.
  3. Have some fun and get messy with products.

The products below have all become part of my recent Sunday Grooming Sessions. But a few months from now, no doubt I will be playing with a whole new mix.

SIX SENSATIONAL SKINCARE GLYCOLIC ACID 8% FOAMING FACE WASH

Glycolic acid, one of the main alpha hydroxy acids, is renowned for its cleansing, exfoliating and anti-ageing properties. In small doses, like this face wash, it can form an essential part of your daily grooming routine. Kudos to this South African product for delivering on its promise of breaking down skin surface build-up, without stripping my skin.

Six Sensational Skincare Glycolic Acid 8% Foaming Face Wash, R415 for 200ml, http://sixskincare.com

CRABTREE & EVELYN TAROCCO ORANGE, EUCALYPTUS & SAGE SHOWER GEL

I do love a good scrub in the tub and on Sundays, bathing is not the rush job it is during the week. This zesty shower gel is the perfect accompaniment. It foams up nicely, while the main ingredients condition the skin. While I might be living in an apartment in suburban Johannesburg, South Africa, it does a good job of conjuring up a sunny Sicilian vibe, with its notes of orange, bergamot and neroli.

Crabtree & Evelyn Tarocco Orange, Eucalyptus & Sage Shower Gel, R400 for 250ml, http://crabtree-evelyn.co.za/

DERMALOGOCA DAILY SUPERFOLIANT

Did you know that environmental pollution is a huge contributing factor to ageing? Building on the success of Dermalogica’s superb Daily Microfoliant, this fine-powder product contains several ingredients (including white charcoal; papain, lipase and subtilisin enzymes; malic and lactic acids; and niacinamide) to combat pollutants and smooth the skin. I love the application process (just add water to the grey powder, apply to the face and gently massage).

Dermalogica Daily Superfoliant, R1 180 for 75g, from authorised Dermalogica spas, salons and skin centres nationwide, www.dermalogica.co.za

KIEHL’S CILANTRO & ORANGE EXTRACT POLLUTANT DEFENDING MASQUE

Hmmmm, do I spot an anti-pollution skincare trend? This mask contains a potent mix of ingredients to fight existing damage to the skin and protect against future damage. You are supposed to apply it to the skin, leave for five minutes, tissue off the excess and then sleep with the remainder. I prefer to leave it on for 30 minutes and then wash it all off. This mask gets a big thumbs up for its super-moisturising and -cleansing effects. Cool green colour too!

Kiehl’s Cilantro & Orange Extract Pollutant Defending Masque, R485 for 75ml, www.kiehls.co.za

ATELIER COLOGNE TREFLE PUR

Sunday Grooming Sessions call for a light, fresh and uplifting fragrance. Well, hello, Atelier Cologne Trefle Pur, with notes of bitter orange, neroli, cardamom, basil, patchouli, oakmoss and cedarwood. Each time I spray this one, I can imagine it in the form of a sparkling cocktail. Actually, pretty much all of the Collection Originale fragrances (with their concentrated citrus accents) from this French maison would do the trick on a Sunday.

Atelier Cologne Trefle Pur, R2 300 for 100ml and R3 600 for 200ml, Edgars stores

6 CLASSIC MEN’S FRAGRANCES

Classics Main Pic

While new fragrances come and go amid a blur of marketing hype, these classic men’s fragrances have earned their kudos.

YVES SAINT LAURENT LA NUIT DE L’HOMME EDT

If this fragrance smells very familiar to you even though it’s the first time you have tried it, that’s because it’s become the template for countless other seductive scents. The mix of cardamom, cedar and tonka bean notes is warm and sensual, but never overpowering. This classic men’s fragrance is too good to only wear at night.

YSL La Nuit de L’Homme EDT (R1 550 for 100ml) is available from Edgars, Red Square, Stuttafords, Woolworths, Truworths and Foschini stores.

Launched: 2009

Creators: Anne Flipo, Pierre Wargnye and Dominique Romion

YSL La Nuit de L’Homme EDT (R1 550 for 100ml) is available from Edgars, Red Square, Stuttafords, Woolworths, Truworths and Foschini stores.

Classics YSL

CARTIER DECLARATION EDT

With its fresh, spicy citrus, woody and aromatic layers, this classic men’s fragrance defies easy classification – and that’s part of its complex beauty. It’s a supremely sophisticated scent that achieves that rare feat of smelling expensive without resorting to bling tricks. But then we wouldn’t expect anything less from Cartier.

Launched: 1998

Creator: Jean-Claude Ellena

Cartier Declaration EDT (R585 for 30ml, R820 for 50ml, R1 185 for 100ml, R1 495 for 150ml and R1 510  for 200ml) is available from selected Edgars and Stuttafords stores.

Classics Cartier

EAU DE ROCHAS HOMME EDT

The super-citrus opening (lime, lemon, mandarin, bergamot and lemon verbena notes) of this classic men’s fragrance is wonderfully invigorating, then it settles into something quite subtle (amber and musk notes). So it ain’t a power performer and you will need a few re-sprays during the day, but if fresh, clean and zesty is your thing, this has your name on it.

Launched: 1993

Creator: Nicolas Mamounas

Eau de Rochas Homme EDT (R1 195 for 100ml) is available from Dis-Chem stores.

Classics Rochas

THIERRY MUGLER A*MEN EDT

The ultimate love-it-or-hate-it fragrance, this classic men’s fragrance still gets a big reaction, thanks to the initial explosion of caramel, coffee and patchouli notes. Give it time to settle and you will discover there’s so much more to it than in-your-face sweetness. I can’t wait to get my nose around the latest addition to the range, Kryptomint.

Launched: 1996

Creator: Jacques Huclier

Thierry Mugler A*Men EDT (R790 for 50ml, R1 195 for 100ml and R895 for 100ml eco refill) is available from Clicks, Edgars, Foschini, Red Square, Truworths and Stuttafords stores.

Classics Amen

LALIQUE ENCRE NOIRE EDT POUR HOMME

Yes, there’s cypress, musk and cashmere wood to savour in this one, but the reason we all keep on coming back to this scent is its magnificent take on vetiver. Dry, earthy, dirty – absolutely unique. If you are looking for an intro to the pleasures of vetiver, get your hands on this one pronto.

Launched: 2006

Creator: Nathalie Lorson

Lalique Encre Noire EDT (R925 for 50ml and R1 225 for 100ml) is available from Dis-Chem stores.

Classics Lalique

VIKTOR & ROLF SPICEBOMB EDT

Lashings of cinnamon, hints of pink pepper, followed by seductive leather and tobacco notes make for a thoroughly modern and oh-so-sexy fragrance from the Dutch designer duo. This EDT gets the balance between sweet and spicy so right. And, of course, the super-cool hand grenade design gets mega bonus points.

Launched: 2012

Creator: Olivier Polge

Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb EDT (R1 164 for 50ml and R1 494 for 90ml) is available from Edgars, Red Square, Stuttafords and Foschini stores.

Classics Spicebomb

ARE YOU A FRAGRANCE SNOB?

Snob Avon

CHEAP AND CHEERFUL… But not for public display.

If you think that the world of fragrance is just about pretty bottles and nice smells, think again. Welcome to the realm of the fragrance snob. I use this term affectionately, because I am guilty sometimes of being a frightful fragrance snob.

Of course, I am not the only one. So read through the statements below to see how you place on the snob-o-meter. Be honest. I won’t judge you…

  • If there’s one thing that gets you going, it’s the commercialisation of perfumery. You regularly vent on Fragrantica about the umpteenth flanker in a designer fragrance range and how the once mighty have fallen so low.
  • And let’s not even got started on the reformulation or discontinuation of your favourite fragrance.
  • And celebrity fragrances…
  • You speak about the masters of fragrance as if they are your best friends. Sometimes you even know their fragrances better than they do.
  • Now that everybody loves Comme des Garcons fragrances, you are on the hunt for a new niche fragrance house. Escentric Molecules, Laboratory Perfumes and Nasomatto are just some of your new faves. For now, at least…
  • You are known for your mastery of fragrance-speak, of which you are very proud. Words like “sillage”, “projection”, “chypre”, “juice”, “drydown”, “layering”, “neo-oriental” and “absolue” come so easily to you.
Snob CDG

FINDING A NEW NICHE: The more obscure, the better.

  • You have a soft spot for some cheap and cheerful fragrances from the likes of The Body Shop, Avon and Yardley but, heaven forbid, these would never feature on your Instagram. You would rather use IG to display your vintage Christian Dior Eau Sauvage and Guerlain Vetiver.
  • You can debate the note structure of a fragrance for hours and are adamant that you can detect the rare wild Haiti rose as a top note in so-and-so’s newest scent, even though it’s not listed in the official note structure.