Fragrance Reviews: Gucci Guilty Absolute, Prada Luna Rossa Carbon, Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint EDT

Gucci Guilty Absolute, Prada Luna Rossa Carbon, Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint

So what’s on the Fragroom sniff-list this week? Well, we have three BIG designer fragrances. Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP, Prada Luna Rossa Carbon EDT, Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint EDT. I am deliberately reviewing these three fragrances together, as they represent the best of what designer fragrances have to offer.

Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP 

The Gucci Guilty line has been on the market since 2010. While I have not tried all the flankers and limited editions, to me the super-fresh Gucci Guilty Eau EDT was the best of the range. But just when I thought Gucci Guilty was becoming a bit predictable, Gucci Guilty Absolute arrived.

Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP

This close collaboration between master perfumer Alberto Morillas and Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele is a very brave release for Gucci.

Its listed notes include a custom-made leather accord (Woodleather), a natural extract of the nootka cypress (Goldenwood), three types of patchouli and vetiver. All of this adds up to create a rich, woody-leathery EDP that’s most intriguing.

To my nose Gucci Guilty Absolute is almost medicinal in character. And I mean that in a very good way. With its deep leather vibe, it pays respectful homage to Gucci’s luxury leather goods heritage. (PS: Did you know Gucci will be celebrating its 100th birthday in 2021?) Gucci Guilty Absolute is not a get-as-many-as-you-can crowd-pleaser, so not everyone will “get” it. Either way, it’s good to see Gucci taking some risks with this new fragrance.

Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP, R1 210 for 50ml, R1 605 for 90ml and R1 895 for 150ml.

Prada Luna Rossa Carbon EDT

I am always very excited about a new Prada fragrance, as the Italian luxury brand doesn’t just churn ’em out. Of course, it’s in the money-making business, but there’s always a conceptual intelligence to the Prada aesthetic. And so it is with the latest addition to the Prada Luna Rossa range, originally launched in 2012.

Prada Luna Rossa Carbon EDT

A fougère with a modern twist, Prada Luna Rossa Carbon has been crafted as a fusion of botanicals and synthetics, the natural and industrial. It features top notes of Italian bergamot and pepper; middle notes of lavender, soil tincture, water, metal and coal; and base notes of patchouli and ambroxan.

Perfumer Daniela Andrier has created all the Prada Luna Rossa fragrances. And her latest creation reflects the above-mentioned contrasts with aplomb. As with many Prada fragrances, there’s something quite austere about Prada Luna Rossa Carbon. Yet it’s sophisticated stuff at the same time, because there are no silly gimmicks to grab the attention.

In my opinion, Carbon is the best in the Prada Luna Rossa range. It’s well worth sniffing out if you’re partial to lavender. While you’re at it, please also check out the award-winning, iris-infused L’Homme Prada EDT.

Prada Luna Rossa EDT, R990 for 50ml and R1 355 for 100ml.

Prada Luna Rossa Carbon EDT

Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint EDT

A new Thierry Mugler A*Men fragrance is always cause for celebration. Originally launched in 1996, there are now 17 fragrances in the A*Men line, including the latest incarnation. You would think that with the umpteenth flanker, A*Men would have run its course. Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint proves otherwise, with a new variation on the love-it-or-hate-it gourmand formula.

Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint EDT

So what does Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint smell like? There’s a lot going on here, with notes that include peppermint, patchouli, tonka bean, geranium, vanilla and coffee. If that sounds totally scrumptious, that’s because it is.

Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint is the olfactory equivalent of over-indulging in after-dinner mints. Remember, this is Thierry Mugler we are talking about, so reserve and restraint are not on the menu.

Sure, Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint is not the very best in the range (my favourites are still the original and the honey- and tobacco-laden A*Men Pure Havane). But kudos to nose Jacques Huclier, who has created all the A*Men fragrances, for playing with our noses again.

Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint EDT, R1 195 for 100ml.

6 CLASSIC MEN’S FRAGRANCES

Classics Main Pic

While new fragrances come and go amid a blur of marketing hype, these classic men’s fragrances have earned their kudos.

YVES SAINT LAURENT LA NUIT DE L’HOMME EDT

If this fragrance smells very familiar to you even though it’s the first time you have tried it, that’s because it’s become the template for countless other seductive scents. The mix of cardamom, cedar and tonka bean notes is warm and sensual, but never overpowering. This classic men’s fragrance is too good to only wear at night.

YSL La Nuit de L’Homme EDT (R1 550 for 100ml) is available from Edgars, Red Square, Stuttafords, Woolworths, Truworths and Foschini stores.

Launched: 2009

Creators: Anne Flipo, Pierre Wargnye and Dominique Romion

YSL La Nuit de L’Homme EDT (R1 550 for 100ml) is available from Edgars, Red Square, Stuttafords, Woolworths, Truworths and Foschini stores.

Classics YSL

CARTIER DECLARATION EDT

With its fresh, spicy citrus, woody and aromatic layers, this classic men’s fragrance defies easy classification – and that’s part of its complex beauty. It’s a supremely sophisticated scent that achieves that rare feat of smelling expensive without resorting to bling tricks. But then we wouldn’t expect anything less from Cartier.

Launched: 1998

Creator: Jean-Claude Ellena

Cartier Declaration EDT (R585 for 30ml, R820 for 50ml, R1 185 for 100ml, R1 495 for 150ml and R1 510  for 200ml) is available from selected Edgars and Stuttafords stores.

Classics Cartier

EAU DE ROCHAS HOMME EDT

The super-citrus opening (lime, lemon, mandarin, bergamot and lemon verbena notes) of this classic men’s fragrance is wonderfully invigorating, then it settles into something quite subtle (amber and musk notes). So it ain’t a power performer and you will need a few re-sprays during the day, but if fresh, clean and zesty is your thing, this has your name on it.

Launched: 1993

Creator: Nicolas Mamounas

Eau de Rochas Homme EDT (R1 195 for 100ml) is available from Dis-Chem stores.

Classics Rochas

THIERRY MUGLER A*MEN EDT

The ultimate love-it-or-hate-it fragrance, this classic men’s fragrance still gets a big reaction, thanks to the initial explosion of caramel, coffee and patchouli notes. Give it time to settle and you will discover there’s so much more to it than in-your-face sweetness. I can’t wait to get my nose around the latest addition to the range, Kryptomint.

Launched: 1996

Creator: Jacques Huclier

Thierry Mugler A*Men EDT (R790 for 50ml, R1 195 for 100ml and R895 for 100ml eco refill) is available from Clicks, Edgars, Foschini, Red Square, Truworths and Stuttafords stores.

Classics Amen

LALIQUE ENCRE NOIRE EDT POUR HOMME

Yes, there’s cypress, musk and cashmere wood to savour in this one, but the reason we all keep on coming back to this scent is its magnificent take on vetiver. Dry, earthy, dirty – absolutely unique. If you are looking for an intro to the pleasures of vetiver, get your hands on this one pronto.

Launched: 2006

Creator: Nathalie Lorson

Lalique Encre Noire EDT (R925 for 50ml and R1 225 for 100ml) is available from Dis-Chem stores.

Classics Lalique

VIKTOR & ROLF SPICEBOMB EDT

Lashings of cinnamon, hints of pink pepper, followed by seductive leather and tobacco notes make for a thoroughly modern and oh-so-sexy fragrance from the Dutch designer duo. This EDT gets the balance between sweet and spicy so right. And, of course, the super-cool hand grenade design gets mega bonus points.

Launched: 2012

Creator: Olivier Polge

Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb EDT (R1 164 for 50ml and R1 494 for 90ml) is available from Edgars, Red Square, Stuttafords and Foschini stores.

Classics Spicebomb