Fragrance Reviews: Gucci Guilty Absolute, Prada Luna Rossa Carbon, Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint EDT

Gucci Guilty Absolute, Prada Luna Rossa Carbon, Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint

So what’s on the Fragroom sniff-list this week? Well, we have three BIG designer fragrances. Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP, Prada Luna Rossa Carbon EDT, Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint EDT. I am deliberately reviewing these three fragrances together, as they represent the best of what designer fragrances have to offer.

Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP 

The Gucci Guilty line has been on the market since 2010. While I have not tried all the flankers and limited editions, to me the super-fresh Gucci Guilty Eau EDT was the best of the range. But just when I thought Gucci Guilty was becoming a bit predictable, Gucci Guilty Absolute arrived.

Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP

This close collaboration between master perfumer Alberto Morillas and Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele is a very brave release for Gucci.

Its listed notes include a custom-made leather accord (Woodleather), a natural extract of the nootka cypress (Goldenwood), three types of patchouli and vetiver. All of this adds up to create a rich, woody-leathery EDP that’s most intriguing.

To my nose Gucci Guilty Absolute is almost medicinal in character. And I mean that in a very good way. With its deep leather vibe, it pays respectful homage to Gucci’s luxury leather goods heritage. (PS: Did you know Gucci will be celebrating its 100th birthday in 2021?) Gucci Guilty Absolute is not a get-as-many-as-you-can crowd-pleaser, so not everyone will “get” it. Either way, it’s good to see Gucci taking some risks with this new fragrance.

Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP, R1 210 for 50ml, R1 605 for 90ml and R1 895 for 150ml.

Prada Luna Rossa Carbon EDT

I am always very excited about a new Prada fragrance, as the Italian luxury brand doesn’t just churn ’em out. Of course, it’s in the money-making business, but there’s always a conceptual intelligence to the Prada aesthetic. And so it is with the latest addition to the Prada Luna Rossa range, originally launched in 2012.

Prada Luna Rossa Carbon EDT

A fougère with a modern twist, Prada Luna Rossa Carbon has been crafted as a fusion of botanicals and synthetics, the natural and industrial. It features top notes of Italian bergamot and pepper; middle notes of lavender, soil tincture, water, metal and coal; and base notes of patchouli and ambroxan.

Perfumer Daniela Andrier has created all the Prada Luna Rossa fragrances. And her latest creation reflects the above-mentioned contrasts with aplomb. As with many Prada fragrances, there’s something quite austere about Prada Luna Rossa Carbon. Yet it’s sophisticated stuff at the same time, because there are no silly gimmicks to grab the attention.

In my opinion, Carbon is the best in the Prada Luna Rossa range. It’s well worth sniffing out if you’re partial to lavender. While you’re at it, please also check out the award-winning, iris-infused L’Homme Prada EDT.

Prada Luna Rossa EDT, R990 for 50ml and R1 355 for 100ml.

Prada Luna Rossa Carbon EDT

Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint EDT

A new Thierry Mugler A*Men fragrance is always cause for celebration. Originally launched in 1996, there are now 17 fragrances in the A*Men line, including the latest incarnation. You would think that with the umpteenth flanker, A*Men would have run its course. Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint proves otherwise, with a new variation on the love-it-or-hate-it gourmand formula.

Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint EDT

So what does Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint smell like? There’s a lot going on here, with notes that include peppermint, patchouli, tonka bean, geranium, vanilla and coffee. If that sounds totally scrumptious, that’s because it is.

Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint is the olfactory equivalent of over-indulging in after-dinner mints. Remember, this is Thierry Mugler we are talking about, so reserve and restraint are not on the menu.

Sure, Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint is not the very best in the range (my favourites are still the original and the honey- and tobacco-laden A*Men Pure Havane). But kudos to nose Jacques Huclier, who has created all the A*Men fragrances, for playing with our noses again.

Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint EDT, R1 195 for 100ml.

5 OF THE BEST FRAGRANCES OF 2016

This year has been another whirlwind of new fragrance launches and personally I get a kick out of trying as many of the latest products as possible. But when it comes to the all-important purchase for yourself or as a gift, how do you tell (and smell) the oh-so-good from the so-so?

These five fragrances stood out from the crowded counters for me:

BENTLEY INFINITE RUSH EDT

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For a company that has only been in the fragrance game since 2013, Bentley keeps the quality coming. Bentley Infinite EDT and Bentley Infinite Intense EDP, both launched in 2015, were class acts and Infinite Rush is no exception. From the opening notes of pink peppercorn and mandarin orange to the dry-down of amber, vetiver and cedar, this is a fresh summer winner. Here’s hoping Bentley Infinite Rush White EDT will be launched in SA too.

R895 for 60ml and R1 195 for 100ml at Dis-Chem and Truworths stores.

DUNHILL ICON ELITE EDP

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If 2015’s Icon Absolute was Dunhill’s contribution to the fashionable oud genre, Icon Elite sees the British brand firmly back in classic territory with this deliciously woody and spicy composition that’s big on sandalwood, cardamom, vetiver, ebony wood and black suede notes. This EDP is grown-up stuff, so if you want something “shouty”, best look elsewhere. It’s the perfect scent from the office to evening cocktails.

R995 for 30ml, R1 095 for 50ml and R1 595 for 100ml at Clicks, Dis-Chem, Edgars, Foschini, Markham, Red Square and Truworths stores.

L’HOMME PRADA EDT

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Not everyone will “get” the powerful powdery iris note in this Prada fragrance, but that’s what makes this EDT so special. That and the amber, geranium and patchouli. Just like Prada’s previous big fragrance release for men, Lunna Rossa Sport, this one is under-rated and deserves a little more time to reveal its charms. From the box to the bottle, the packaging is seriously sophisticated too.

R1 060 for 50ml and R1 485 for 100ml from Edgars, Red Square, Stuttafords and Woolworths stores.

ARMANI CODE PROFUMO EDP

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Disclaimer: Generally, I am not a fan of sweeter scents, but I will make an exception for this recent addition to the Armani Code line. This EDP opens with a quick flourish of green apple and cardamom before settling into a warm, sensual and cosy (never thought I would use that adjective to describe a Giorgio Armani) rendition of tonka bean, amber and leather. Bellissimo!

30ml for R819, 60ml for R1 306 and R1 630 for 110ml from Edgars, Red Square, Stuttafords, Foschini, Woolworths and Truworths stores.

 VALENTINO UOMO INTENSE EDP

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Valentino Uomo was one of my favourites when it was released in South Africa in 2015 – and the intense version is perfume perfection to me. Yes, there’s a luxurious leather vibe here, but it’s mixed oh so seductively with iris, tonka bean, vanilla and clary sage to make this so more than a one-trick wonder. The studded grey bottle is also gorgeous. Excuse me, while I sniff myself again and again. Mmm….

R1 210 for 50ml and R1 510 for 100ml from Edgars, Red Square, Truworths, Foschini and Woolworths stores.