MAURICE ROUCEL INTERVIEW: “I’M ALWAYS IN CONTROL OF MY FORMULAS, TRYING TO PLEASE MY CLIENT – AND MYSELF”

Maurice Roucel Interview

IMAGE: Maison Rebatchi.

Maurice Roucel called me last week. Shameless name-dropping aside, I’ve always wanted to say that. After all, how often does a living legend respond to a flurry of emails with a phone-call to set up a time for an interview a week later. I gush about this Maurice Roucel interview because, in his nearly five decades-long career, he’s the man behind fragrances such as:

  • Rochas Tocade EDT (1994)
  • Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist EDP (1994)
  • Hermès 24 Faubourg EDP (1995)
  • Lalique Pour Homme EDP (1997)
  • Gucci Envy EDT (1997)
  • Rochas Man EDT (1999)
  • Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur EDP (2000)
  • Bond No 9 New Haarlem EDP (2003)
  • Guerlain L’Instant de Guerlain EDP (2003)
  • Donna Karan DKNY Be Delicious EDP (2004)
  • Lolita Lempicka L de Lolita Lempicka EDP (2006)
  • Guerlain Insolence EDT (2006)
  • Le Labo Labdanum 18 EDP (2006)
  • Nautica Voyage EDT (2006)
  • Amouage Reflection Woman EDP (2007)
  • Lancôme Hypnôse Homme EDT (2007)
  • Frédéric Malle Dans Tes Bras EDP (2008)

Maurice Roucel Interview - Rochas Man EDT

More recently, he has given niche brands such as Atkinsons, Cochine, Maison Rebatchi and Shalini his distinctive Gallic flair.

Maurice Roucel didn’t go the traditional route of perfume school. Starting at Chanel in 1973, where he worked with Henri Robert (creator of No 19 and Cristalle, pictured below), he taught himself the fundamentals of the profession. No doubt, his background as a chromatography chemist, with its techniques of separating a mixture into its individual components, gave him a technical edge.

IMAGE: Chanel.

His earliest fragrances included Henry M. Betrix Country EDT (1979) and Krizia K de Krizia (1981). In 1996, he joined the German fragrance and flavour company Symrise, which recognised him as a master perfumer – a rare accolade in the industry. Other achievements include the Prix François Coty (2002) and the Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres (2012).

IMAGE: Fragrantica.

When we get to chat properly, the Normandy-born, Paris-based perfumer is humorous, insightful and forthright. I try to find out what project he’s currently working on – rightly so, he insists it’s confidential. Instead, we talk about a wide range of subjects, including synthetics, ambers, keeping clients happy and approaching his latest career milestone.

Hope you enjoy reading this Maurice Roucel interview as much I did speaking with him.

Maurice Roucel Interview

IMAGE: Symrise.

You’re self-taught. How many years did it take before you knew the essentials?

[Laughs] I’m still learning. You always do in this business.

Musk seems to be one of your favourites. Why does it appeal so much to you?

Ah yes, I like musk, but I like to work with a lot of things. I don’t have a particular favourite.

“I like musk, but I like to work with a lot of things. I don’t have a particular favourite.”

While I must work to the ideas of client briefs, which are quite specific, personally I do enjoy something with the structure of musk, vanille [vanilla], ambery, sweet but not too sweet, comfortable. A little bit of the style, I would like to say, of Guerlain, Guerlinade [the house’s signature accord originally created by Aimé Guerlain in the late 19th century].

Maurice Roucel Interview - Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur EDP

You mentioned amber. There’s a lot of confusion about it…

At the beginning, ambergris came from the sperm whale. Nowadays, it’s frankly impossible. With animalics increasingly forbidden, you have synthetics or bases – perhaps you’ve heard of Ambre 93 from de Laire, for example.

You have sweet amber and dry amber. The product Ambroxan is dry ambery. When you are looking at the perfumery of Guerlain, the famous Guerlinade, it could be seen as ambery, but nothing to do with the original amber [laughs].

Ambre 83 from de Laire tries to add something comfortable, reassuring, feminine, enveloping, that kind of stuff.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Le Labo Labdanum 18 EDP

Perfumery relies on a mix of naturals and synthetics…

DKNY Be Delicious is totally synthetic.

And it’s great…

Yeah, it’s great, but it’s a question of the art of the perfumer to make something smell good.

How do you deal with the idea that “natural is best”?

It’s not the case. If you want to give the DNA of your perfume strong character, you need to use synthetics.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Maison Rebatchi Musc Panache EDP

PERSONAL PERFUME: In this Maurice Roucel interview, the perfumer reveals that Maison Rebatchi Musc Panache was initially created for himself. IMAGE: Maison Rebatchi.

You’ve created more than 150 perfumes in your career. Have you ever struggled with self-doubt or to come up with ideas or inspiration?

Maybe, I don’t know, I never count them.

Sometimes it’s difficult to find the right idea, for sure. But when you have it and it’s pleasing the client, we can work it for creating properly. Sometimes you can create something in one afternoon, as they say, sometimes it can take five to six years.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Nautica Voyage EDT

IMAGE: Nautica.

Hermès 24 Faubourg is one of my favourite creations of yours. It’s such a beautiful classic…

You know, originally I was not a fan of orange flower absolute, not my cup of tea. I was thinking at that time, the brief from Hermès was to create something around the Mediterranean, the sea, the sun. For me, Mediterranean countries mean orange flower, so that’s why I chose to work with it.

“It took four to five years to create the perfume. The people from Hermès are quite picky.”

And it took four to five years to create the perfume. The people from Hermès are quite picky. They are very demanding [chuckles]. When you have the scarves, the leather, everything is absolutely gorgeous, focused and very high quality.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Hermès 24 Faubourg EDP

Let’s talk about one of your more recent creations, Maison Rebatchi Musc Panache EDP [2019] which, coincidentally, I’ve just received from the company. Love its soft powderiness…

Originally, it was a perfume I created for myself. These ideas can then be proposed to a client and if they like it, they can then take it [laughs].

Maurice Roucel Interview - Maison Rebatchi Musc Panache EDP

PERSONAL PERFUME: In this Maurice Roucel interview, he reveals he initially created Maison Rebatchi Musc Panache for himself. IMAGE: Maison Rebatchi.

Do you have lots of these ideas waiting to be realised?

For example, you know, when I was, not so far from you really [I’m in Johannesburg, South Africa], in Réunion Island, I never smelled anything so beautiful in my life as the tiaré. So I was inspired and that became L’Instant de Guerlain.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Guerlain L’Instant de Guerlain EDP

IMAGE: Guerlain.

Is that how you find inspiration often? By travelling?

Inspiration can come from everywhere. Like with DKNY Be Delicious, I thought why not an apple, but an apple in my style. I like to add something different.

Are there certain compromises you’re not willing to make when working with a client?

Pleasing the client, that’s okay. But I’m always in control of my formulas, trying to please my client – and myself.

Going back to fruity fragrances, I discovered one of your less well-known creations from 2008, Adidas Natural Vitality EDT, on Fragrantica.

Which one? Is it me? Sorry, I don’t remember all my perfumes.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Adidas Natural Vitality EDT

You’re heading for 50 years in the industry in 2023. What’s been the biggest change in that time?

Yes, it’s a long life, a big part of my life.

When I started there were 20 to 30 maximum new perfumes on the market every year. Nowadays it’s 3 000 [laughs]. Everybody wants to launch a perfume.

To have a success, you need to move to the big trend. When Mugler Angel was launched [in 1992] it was not appreciated at all for its innovation. Three years later, a lot of people were making the sister, the nephew, the mother, the grandmother of Angel.

“A lot of perfumes don’t have strong inspiration. They do not stay in the memory as they have nothing specific.”

Meaning that a lot of perfumes don’t have strong inspiration. Investment in them is not in their quality but more the communication and publicity and so on.

You have a lot of perfumes on the market for one year, two years maximum. They do not stay in the memory as they have nothing specific.

Niche has some kind of answer to the desire of the client for something peculiar.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Lalique Pour Homme EDP

IMAGE: Lalique.

What one thing would you like to see change in the industry?

A partnership with the client. And not everyone trying to win the brief. For winning you need to be commercial, which is a pity for creativity.

But when you are working with somebody like Frédéric Malle, some companies like Chanel, Guerlain, you can find people in front of you who have a sense of perfumery at the right level.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Guerlain Insolence EDP

All images for this Maurice Roucel interview my own, unless stated otherwise. 

Fragrance Reviews: Carolina Herrera 212 Men Aqua, Jimmy Choo Man Ice, Issey Miyake Nuit d’Issey Bleu Astral, Scuderia Ferrari Forte

Carolina Herrera 212 Men Aqua Limited Edition

It’s been almost a month since my last fragrance review. And I have a backlog of fragrances to report back on here at Fragroom HQ. So this week and the next I will be reviewing seven newbies on my sniff list. This week we have Carolina Herrera 212 Men Aqua, Jimmy Choo Man Ice, Issey Miyake Nuit d’Issey Bleu Astral and Scuderia Ferrari Forte.

Issey Miyake Nuit d'Issey Bleu Astral

FEELING BLUE: Is Issey Miyake Nuit d’Issey Bleu Astral a hit or a miss?

Scuderia Ferrari Forte EDP

If, like me, you have never really explored Ferrari fragrances (surely too much testosterone), give this one a go. It’s not nearly as macho as it sounds. Scuderia Ferrarai Forte EDP is created by the esteemed Maurice Roucel (the nose behind Amouage Reflection Woman, Bond No 9 New Haarlem, Estée Lauder Pleasures Intense For Men, Gucci Envy For Women, Lancôme Hypnôse Homme, Rochas Man). The listed notes of this oriental fragrance include apple, lemon, plum, cinnamon, vanilla and patchouli notes. I mostly get a sweet and spicy pineapple vibe from this EDP. While not in the haloed company of the previously mentioned fragrances, it’s a good excuse to check out the world of Ferrari fragrances. Scuderia Ferrari Forte EDP, R895 for 125ml.

Scuderia Ferrari Forte EDP

Jimmy Choo Man Ice EDT

Jimmy Phew! That’s Really Sweet. That was my initial reaction to the third addition to the Jimmy Choo Man fragrance franchise, which features mandarin, bergamot, cedrat essence, vetiver, patchouli essence, cedarwood, apple, musk, moss and ambroxan notes. I have revisited this fragrance several times since then to give it a fair chance, because sometimes an initial reaction can be influenced by factors such as mood. However, I still get major sweetness, rather than icy freshness, from Jimmy Choo Man Ice EDT. Perhaps I am being too literal? So while this one ain’t for me, I see it working very well for trendy, active 20-something gents. Jimmy Choo Man Ice EDT, R695 for 30ml, R895 for 50ml and R1095 for 100ml.

Jimmy Choo Man Ice EDT

Carolina Herrera 212 Men Aqua Limited Edition EDT

Hard to believe that CH 212 has been on the market for almost 20 years. You know you are getting older when you can measure your life in fragrance launch cycles. Anyway, enough about me. The latest CH 212 Men incarnation, created by master perfumer Alberto Morillas (who-co-created the original), features notes of grapefruit, bergamot, marine, cardamom, gardenia, ambrox, cypriola, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, rose and musk. CH 212 Men Aqua Limited Edition is not going to score points for originality, but it’s super-fresh, high-performance stuff. CH 212 Men Aqua Limited Edition EDT, R1 200 for 100ml.

Carolina Herrera 212 Men Aqua Limited Edition

Issey Miyake Nuit d’Issey Bleu Astral EDT

I really like Issey Miyake Nuit d’Issey Parfum, with its grapefruit, leather and tonka bean characteristics. For their latest creation in the series, Dominique Ropion and Loc Dong up the contrasts ante. So Issey Miyake Nuit d’Issey Bleu Astral opens with a fresh burst of lime and Russian coriander. Then there’s a sensuous aspect with leather, ambery woods and vetiver notes. It’s very minimalist in a Japanese way and very effective. A case of less is more, and I want a lot more of it. Issey Miyake Nuit d’Issey Bleu Astral EDT, R965 for 75ml and R1 175 for 125ml.

Issey Miyake Nuit d'Issey Bleu Astral EDT