Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair To The Rescue

Anti-Ageing - Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair

A month ago I posted about my pigmentation blues (http://fragroom.com/2017/09/29/how-to-treat-pigmentation/). At that stage I had already started using a variety of products and treatments. There was a degree of containment (not eradication), shall we say. Since then I have been using Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair.

Dermalogica

GIMMICK FREE: I’m a big fan of Dermalogica’s science-first approach to skincare.

Firstly, because I am a big fan of Dermalogica’s gimmick-free, science-first approach to skincare. Secondly, because retinol is a particularly crafty weapon in the fight against the signs of ageing skin, including pesky pigmentation.

“As a retinol rookie, I decided to use Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair, with its 0.5% concentration of this powerful active ingredient.”

Dermalogica recently launched their clinical-strength Overnight Retinol Repair 1%. But as a retinol rookie, I decided to use Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair, with its 0.5% concentration of this powerful active ingredient. I am definitely going to use the more potent version in the future. I am impressed with the results of Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair.

Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1%

SUPER-RETINOL: Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1% is on the must-try list.

There have been no miracles with Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair. Thankfully, the American skincare company makes no such promises with its products. What I have noticed, though, is a general improvement in the condition of my skin over the last month. (Of course, it also helps that I have been wearing a hat and SPF way more frequently than I used to.) The pigmentation has not been substantially reduced. That’s a medium-term goal which requires longer use of the product. But people have commented on how good my skin is looking in general. I have been telling them, “Big thank you, it’s the Dermalogica retinol product I have been using.”

If you’re planning on going the retinol route, there’s stuff you need to know. Dermalogica were most helpful in providing the essential facts below.

What is retinol?

Retinol is a pure form of vitamin A and is used to treat skin ageing and acne. Our skin converts topically applied retinol into retinoic acid.

“Retinol is a pure form of vitamin A and is used to treat skin ageing and acne.” 

What are the benefits of using retinol?

Where do we start? It improves skin texture, wrinkles, thinning of the underlying dermis and loss of skin elasticity caused by photo-ageing and normal ageing. It also stimulates new collagen synthesis and the formation of hyaluronic acid, which keeps the skin tissue plump and hydrated. Good news for those with pigmentation: retinol stimulates cell turnover and renewal.

Anti-Ageing - Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair
What about the side effects of retinol?

Due to the potency of the highly active molecule, the skin may react to retinol treatment in the early stages of use. Some of these reactions include itching, burning and peeling. It’s advisable to build your skin’s tolerance to retinol when you first start using it by applying it on alternate nights for the first week or so.

Dermalogica Buffer Cream

Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair also comes with a Buffer Cream. I mixed it with the retinol product to further dilute its strength until my skin had adapted to it. Pregnant and lactating women and those on prescription medication for acne should not use retinol.

Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair

What about the sun?

It’s even more important than usual to wear a sunscreen (SPF30+) during the day when using retinol. Skin is extra sensitive to UV exposure when using it. This doesn’t mean you can’t use a retinol product when the sun is out. But if you’re expecting to spend long periods in the direct sun (for example, an outdoor concert or beach holiday), it’s wise to temporarily stop using it before and after prolonged sun exposure.

Sun Protection - BioNike

Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair, R1 480 for 30ml.

How To Maximise Your Beauty Sleep

How To Maximise Your Beauty Sleep

While there are many airy-fairy concepts when it comes to grooming and self-maintenance, beauty sleep is not one of them. There’s plenty of research which shows how the skin goes into regeneration mode when we sleep. And beauty sleep becomes even more important as we get older.

Lavender For Beauty Sleep

CALM DOWN: Lavender to relax.

There are many things we can do to improve the quality of our beauty sleep. Most of these centre on reducing the hyper-stimulation of modern life. (Note to self: Do not post on Instagram before bedtime. You know you will not be able to help yourself replying to comments. Ditto copious amounts of tea and coffee. Self-lecture over.). If you are looking for a good read on the dire consequences of sleep deprivation, I would recommend The Sleep Revolution by Arianna Huffington (WH Allen).

Lavender and camomile tea are well-known for their calming properties. So I am making a conscious effort to include these in my bed-time routine.

Camomile tea for beauty sleep

CUPPA SLEEP: More camomile, less caffeine.

Recommended beauty sleep products

A good night’s rest will show on your face. But it’s also a good idea to incorporate the right products into your bedtime routine to maximise your beauty sleep. I have been using all of the products below for over a month. And while they are not all strictly bedtime products, they have all worked for me.

Beauty sleep products

TIRED AND TESTED: The beauty sleep quartet.

Elizabeth Arden Visible Difference Peel and Reveal Revitalizing Mask (R385 for 50ml)

It’s only recently that I have started using Elizabeth Arden products. This beauty sleep product for all skin types does exactly what it says. Its active ingredients include cabernet seed extract, a botanical complex of alpha and beta hydroxy acids, glycolic acid, salicylic acid and natural sugar extract. I have been applying Elizabeth Arden Visible Difference Peel and Reveal Revitalizing Mask once a week at night. I get a major kick from peeling it off after 20 minutes.

Elizabeth Arden Visible Difference Peel and Reveal Revitalizing Mask

Gatineau Melatogenine Futur Plus Anti-Wrinkle Radiance Mask (R750 for 75ml)

This superb beauty sleep product from the French pharmacy brand Gatineau comes with wrinkle-busting collagen, the company’s exclusive Melatogenine molecule and hyaluronic acid. If you are in a rush, it can be applied for 10 minutes. Even better, apply a thin layer and leave overnight for a more intensive anti-ageing treatment. It can be used on the face and around the eye area. Beauty sleep bonus!

Gatineau Melatogenine Futur Plus Anti-Wrinkle Radiance Mask

Elizabeth Arden Prevage Anti-Aging Overnight Cream (R1 450 for 50ml)

Prevage is Elizabeth Arden’s premium anti-ageing range, with super-slick packaging to match (yes, these things are important to me). Dehydrated skin? Slack skin? Wrinkles? Sun damaged skin? Prevage Anti-Aging Overnight Cream combats all of these with a tongue-twisting mix of Idebenone Ester (a powerful antioxidant), hydroxypinacolone-retinoate (a vitamin A derivative), lemon peel extract, vitamin A acetate, glycerine, shea and cocoa butter and an advanced moisture complex. It ain’t cheap, but it’s a top beauty sleep investment. Plus you will only need to use a little at a time.

Elizabeth Arden Prevage Anti-Aging Overnight Cream

Dermalogica Age Reversal Eye Complex (R990 for 50ml)

The area around the eye is super-delicate and is often the first to show signs of ageing. Fine lines, wrinkles, puffiness, dark circles and dryness… you know the look. Dermalogica Age Reversal Eye Complex contains a potent mix of ingredients to improve cell turnover, collagen production and firmness. These ingredients include retinol, vitamin B3, hyaluronic acid, algae extract and provitamin B5. Due to its high concentration of retinol, I used this on alternate nights for two weeks and then made it part of my bedtime routine.

Dermalogica Age Reversal Eye Complex

THE SUNDAY GROOMING SESSIONS

Not to be confused with some post-post-nightclubbing comedown, the Sunday Grooming Sessions are often my favourite part of the week. Relaxation does not come easily to me, so this is the one time of the week I impose some downtime on myself.

The Sunday Grooming Sessions are the perfect time for me to:

  1. Slow down and get off the busy express.
  2. Take care of myself. After all, grooming is not just about looking presentable and well put together – it’s a fundamental act of self-care.
  3. Have some fun and get messy with products.

The products below have all become part of my recent Sunday Grooming Sessions. But a few months from now, no doubt I will be playing with a whole new mix.

SIX SENSATIONAL SKINCARE GLYCOLIC ACID 8% FOAMING FACE WASH

Glycolic acid, one of the main alpha hydroxy acids, is renowned for its cleansing, exfoliating and anti-ageing properties. In small doses, like this face wash, it can form an essential part of your daily grooming routine. Kudos to this South African product for delivering on its promise of breaking down skin surface build-up, without stripping my skin.

Six Sensational Skincare Glycolic Acid 8% Foaming Face Wash, R415 for 200ml, http://sixskincare.com

CRABTREE & EVELYN TAROCCO ORANGE, EUCALYPTUS & SAGE SHOWER GEL

I do love a good scrub in the tub and on Sundays, bathing is not the rush job it is during the week. This zesty shower gel is the perfect accompaniment. It foams up nicely, while the main ingredients condition the skin. While I might be living in an apartment in suburban Johannesburg, South Africa, it does a good job of conjuring up a sunny Sicilian vibe, with its notes of orange, bergamot and neroli.

Crabtree & Evelyn Tarocco Orange, Eucalyptus & Sage Shower Gel, R400 for 250ml, http://crabtree-evelyn.co.za/

DERMALOGOCA DAILY SUPERFOLIANT

Did you know that environmental pollution is a huge contributing factor to ageing? Building on the success of Dermalogica’s superb Daily Microfoliant, this fine-powder product contains several ingredients (including white charcoal; papain, lipase and subtilisin enzymes; malic and lactic acids; and niacinamide) to combat pollutants and smooth the skin. I love the application process (just add water to the grey powder, apply to the face and gently massage).

Dermalogica Daily Superfoliant, R1 180 for 75g, from authorised Dermalogica spas, salons and skin centres nationwide, www.dermalogica.co.za

KIEHL’S CILANTRO & ORANGE EXTRACT POLLUTANT DEFENDING MASQUE

Hmmmm, do I spot an anti-pollution skincare trend? This mask contains a potent mix of ingredients to fight existing damage to the skin and protect against future damage. You are supposed to apply it to the skin, leave for five minutes, tissue off the excess and then sleep with the remainder. I prefer to leave it on for 30 minutes and then wash it all off. This mask gets a big thumbs up for its super-moisturising and -cleansing effects. Cool green colour too!

Kiehl’s Cilantro & Orange Extract Pollutant Defending Masque, R485 for 75ml, www.kiehls.co.za

ATELIER COLOGNE TREFLE PUR

Sunday Grooming Sessions call for a light, fresh and uplifting fragrance. Well, hello, Atelier Cologne Trefle Pur, with notes of bitter orange, neroli, cardamom, basil, patchouli, oakmoss and cedarwood. Each time I spray this one, I can imagine it in the form of a sparkling cocktail. Actually, pretty much all of the Collection Originale fragrances (with their concentrated citrus accents) from this French maison would do the trick on a Sunday.

Atelier Cologne Trefle Pur, R2 300 for 100ml and R3 600 for 200ml, Edgars stores

PRODUCT REVIEW: DERMALOGICA PHYTO REPLENISH OIL

Dermalogica 1I have been a big fan of Dermalogica products ever since I first tried their Daily Microfoliant, a highly effective exfoliator that’s gentle to the skin. More recently, their revitalising Charcoal Rescue Masque has been added to my list of grooming essentials.

If I do not prioritise it, my skin often looks lacklustre and, ahem, older than it should. So I was very keen to put Dermalogica’s new Phyto Replenish Oil to the test.

This product promises dewy skin (yes, please) by reinforcing the protective barrier through a combination of phytoactives (including camellia and tamanu oils), an essential lipid blend (including orchid flower and chia seed oils) and an antioxidant shield against free radical damage (including sunflower, rice bran and rosemary extracts).

That sounds like an impressive list of ingredients, but nothing like putting a product to the test. So for almost four weeks, I have been using Dermalogica Phyto Replenish Oil as part of my nightly grooming routine, applying several drops to my skin after cleansing and moisturising.

The first thing I noticed about this product is how easily it is absorbed. I have used several face oils and many of them, despite claims to the contrary, have not absorbed this well.

For the first week I couldn’t detect any noticeable difference to my skin, but by the end of the second week of use, it started looking healthier and more hydrated. Almost four weeks in, there’s no doubt this is another top-performing product from Dermalogica.

At R1 290 for 30ml, yes, Dermalogica Phyto Replenish Oil is a little on the pricey side and there are cheaper face oils out there. That said, this product is worth every cent.

Dermalogica Phyto Replenish Oil, R1 290 for 30ml, is available from Dermalogica concept stores and Dermalogica stockists. For more information, www.dermalogica.co.za.