Dunhill Signature Collection Review

Dunhill Signature

The growth of private collections continues to gather momentum. Launched in 2019 with relatively little publicity, Dunhill Signature epitomises what these ranges are all about. Superior ingredients, an emphasis on craftsmanship and luxury, and limited distribution. These are all nods to the growing influence of the niche category in perfumery.

Dunhill Signature

However, Dunhill brings its own angle to the trend (come to think of it, it’s more of a standard now than a trend) – a focus on travel and adventure, while balancing tradition and modernity. This should come as no surprise. After all, the British luxury goods brand was in the automobiles accessories biz in one of its various incarnations in the 20th century.

“These are all nods to the growing influence of the niche category in perfumery. “

The launch collection (presumably more will be added) consists of four different fragrances. They were created by a mix of established and up-and-coming perfumers. I’ve listed the name of the perfumer in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Dunhill Signature

PERFUME TALENT: The Dunhill Signature fragrances were created by, clockwise from top left, Alexandra Monet, Carlos Benaïm, Gino Percontino and Pierre Negrin.

INDIAN SANDALWOOD EDP (CARLOS BENAIM)

An award-winning perfume legend, Benaim has a succession of standout creations to his name. These include Antonio Puig Quorum EDT, Calvin Klein Eternity For Men EDT, Frédéric Malle Music For A While EDP and Dunhill Icon EDP. His expertise is clearly evident in this scent.

It opens with the fresh and sunny citrus hues of bergamot and continues to warm up, in an earthy way, with the addition of green tree and patchouli notes. Sandalwood comes through seamlessly in the drydown. Rich, without being overpowering, it has a creamy, almost coconut-y vibe.

Verdict: Woody and warm, it evokes an Indian summer in semi-tropical style.

Dunhill Signature

MOROCCAN AMBER EDP (GINO PERCONTINO)

I’m not familiar with Percontino’s creations for brands such as Anthropologie, Banana Republic, Phlur and Hollister, among others. But judging by the sterling job he’s done with Moroccan Amber, he’s a perfumer to watch in the future.

The intro is all spice, featuring big wafts of sweet cardamom. I also get teeny-weeny hints of ginger and coriander, although they are not officially listed notes. The spice keeps coming with saffron, which has soft leather undertones. The base of amber is typically warm and cosy, but Percontino keeps the sweetness in check with a rugged earthiness.

Verdict: An oriental that gets the balance between sweet and spicy just right.

Dunhill Signature

BRITISH LEATHER EDP (PIERRE NEGRIN)

With creation such as Amouage Interlude Man EDP, Ermenegildo Zegna Indonesian Oud EDP and Ralph Lauren Polo Black EDT, Negrin needs no introduction. The French perfumer was the perfect choice to give Dunhill’s leather heritage a contemporary spin.

The inherent bitterness of bergamot is amplified at the beginning of this fragrance. Is that a hint of cardamom in the background? The violet leaf that follows pushes it in a green direction. This bitter green aspect is brought to the fore by an infusion of mate tea, which lays the foundation for the leather accord in the drydown. It’s a lived-in leather that’s cooler in character than its stable mates.

Verdict: A distinctive leather that’s full of character and creases.

Dunhill Signature

ARABIAN DESERT EDP (ALEXANDRA MONET)

No private fragrance collection is complete without an oud, and Arabian Desert was placed in the capable hands of Monet. She is known for her accomplished work for brands such as Berdoues, The Different Company and Kenzo.

This EDP displays its charms from the start. Rosy pink peppercorns set the oriental mood, with citrus bergamot and spicy saffron in support. The heart features floral notes of rose and jasmine, which are treated most delicately. Rose and oud is a popular combo, and Monet gives it plenty of sensual smoke in the drydown.

Verdict: A sweetish, but not too sweet, take on oud that’s smoothly seductive.

Dunhill Signature

There’s a deceptive simplicity to these Dunhill Signature fragrances. Unlike its more mass market fragrances, their streamlined structure allows individual ingredients to breathe more.

The bottles also deserve a mention. Taking their cue from the brand’s automotive heritage, they take the solid design of the Icon collection to new levels of modern elegance with their structures of transparent glass and metal tops.

For a private fragrance collection, these EDPs are also very reasonably priced at R2 299 for 100ml.

The Dunhill Signature collection is available in South Africa at Edgars, Truworths and Foschini stores.

 

Dunhill Icon Fragrance Reviews: Dunhill Icon, Dunhill Icon Absolute, Dunhill Icon Elite, Dunhill Icon Racing

Dunhill Icon, Dunhill Icon Racing, Dunhill Icon Elite, Dunhill Icon Absolute

It’s intriguing to watch the evolution of a fragrance range from the launch of its pillar fragrance (Dunhill Icon) to the roll-out of its flankers (Dunhill Icon Absolute, Dunhill Icon Elite and Dunhill Icon Racing). It tells you something about the heritage of the brand and where it’s now re-staking its claim.

Dunhill Icon, Dunhill Icon Racing, Dunhill Icon Elite, Dunhill Icon Absolute

ICONIC: The Dunhill Icon fragrance collection, from left to right, Dunhill Icon, Dunhill Icon Racing, Dunhill Icon Elite and Dunhill Icon Absolute.

Dunhill has released many memorable fragrances since the launch of the superb Dunhill For Men in 1934. But the quality of releases over, say, the last two decades has been erratic, even for the most devoted fan. The launch of Dunhill Icon in 2014 was the esteemed British brand’s reclamation of all the iconic descriptors associated with its fragrances. “Quality”, “elegant”, “craftsmanship” and “British gentlemanliness”.

Dunhill Icon

CRAFTSMANSHIP: Dunhill Icon was launched in 2015.

With the recent release of the latest addition to the Dunhill Icon range, Dunhill Icon Racing, I sniffed out all four fragrances. These are my impressions of each of the EDPs.

Dunhill Icon Racing

RACING GREEN: Dunhill Icon Racing is inspired by the British brand’s motoring heritage.

DUNHILL ICON EDP

Launched in 2015, Dunhill Icon makes its debut with this complex scent created by master perfumer Carlos Benaim. It’s so much more than its aromatic-woody profile suggests. Notes of neroli, bergamot, cardamom, lavender, black pepper, leather and oakmoss feature in this effervescent EDP.

Dunhill Icon

DUNHILL ICON ABSOLUTE EDP

This later 2015 release ventures into more opulent territory. It’s the Dunhill Icon take on the oud trend, while not going the whole shebang. This is a refined treatment of agarwood, with bergamot, black pepper, jasmine, saffron, black rose, leather and tobacco leaf notes adding to its appeal.

Dunhill Icon Absolute

DUNHILL ICON ELITE EDP

An unapologetically woody fragrance, with ebony and sandalwood notes featuring prominently. There’s also a smattering of citrus, cardamom, black pepper and suede notes in this 2016 release. It’s smooth, seductive and modern, without being overly trendy. We’re talking Dunhill bespoke suit kind of stuff.

Dunhill Icon Elite

DUNHILL ICON RACING EDP

Complete with stripes on the top of the bottle, Dunhill Icon Racing is inspired by Dunhill’s motoring heritage. To my nose, Dunhill Icon Racing is not as immediately impactful as its predecessors. Give it time, though, and this Laurent le Guernec composition make an impression with vetiver, lavender, cardamom, citrus and musk notes. I normally like my vetiver dark and dirty, but this fresher and younger interpretation is a winner too.

My conclusion? This is not a range, but rather an evolving fragrance collection that warrants its higher-than-the-average perfume price.

“Mark Eisen’s award-winning cylindrical metal and glass design for the Dunhill Icon collection gets it right on so many levels.”

I must also mention the design of the Dunhill Icon bottle. The fragrance industry has no shortage of beautiful bottles to behold. But South African Mark Eisen’s award-winning cylindrical metal and glass design for the Dunhill Icon collection gets it right on so many levels. Paying homage to Dunhill’s motoring heritage, its solid and classic design is a sophisticated statement that Dunhill Icon is a collection with longevity. You can read more about fashion designer-turned-industrial designer Mark Eisen (picture below) here: https://fragroom.com/2017/09/15/south-african-beauty/.

Dunhill Icon Racing EDP, R1 095 for 50ml and R1 595 for 100ml.