For my last round-up of the year, best designer fragrances of 2019, I thought I would take a look at some of the latest flankers on the market. For better and for worse, these are the mainstay of the designer fragrance business model. Release a new pillar fragrance and then follow it with numerous variations on the theme until it has run its course.
The best flankers bring something new while staying true to the original. The rest (and there are a lot of those) just add to consumer confusion and the idea that designer brands are void of any creativity.
This selection of best designer fragrances of 2019 has several pleasant surprises. Where known, the name of the perfumer is mentioned in brackets after the name of the scent.
Which are your best designer fragrances of 2019?
DIOR JOY EDP INTENSE (FRANCOIS DEMACHY)
When Dior Joy EDP was launched in 2018, it caused a stir, for the wrong reasons. Many people were unhappy that the French luxury fashion company had appropriated the name from the Jean Patou classic. I liked this scent in a “nice” kind of way.
Dior Joy Intense is a far more interesting and beautiful floral creation. The citrus opening of bergamot and mandarin will be the first to grab you. They are followed by a big dose of Grasse grandiflorum jasmine, which stays on the right side of sweetness, and a hint of Grasse centifolia rose in the background.
The drydown of vanilla, musk and sandalwood is creamy in all the right ways. It’s a seductive and sophisticated treat from start to finish.
R1 795 for 50ml and R2 765 for 90ml.
YSL Y EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION)
In 2017, YSL launched its new fragrance, Y, in an EDT format. It’s pleasant-enough stuff, but it’s the EDP that’s getting attention for all the right reasons.
It makes its mark right from the start with a trio of fresh notes, bergamot, ginger and apple. The apple note, in particular, is a standout and gives it a juicy and slightly sweet bite. A herbal facet follows in the form of a pronounced sage note. Juniper berries and geranium add to the freshness. The base is woody, with a big dose of amberwood. Vanilla-ish tonka bean is also prominent in the drydown.
It’s all too easy to criticise YSL Y EDP as safe, reliable and even a crowd-pleaser. Nothing wrong with that, especially when it’s done so well.
R1 860 for 100ml.
TWILLY D’HERMES EAU POIVREE EDP (CHRISTINE NAGEL)
When Twilly d’Hermès was launched in 2017, it was wonderful proof that a fragrance marketed at young women needn’t be a cloyingly predictable confection. It could actually be intriguing and gorgeous enough to have appeal beyond its intended demographic.
Does Twilly d’Hermès Eau Poivrée continue the great work? You bet. The original was defined by the dynamic between ginger and tuberose. This one focuses on three key notes: the balance between pink pepper and rose, settling on a base of woody and earthy patchouli.
Soft and soothing, it’s a delightfully simple yet elegant composition that will once again appeal to those with more mature tastes.
R1 080 for 30ml, R1 620 for 50ml and R2 215 for 85ml.
SOFT SKILLS: Will Twilly d’Hermès Eau Poivrée get your vote as one of the best designer fragrances of 2019?
DUNHILL CENTURY BLUE EDP
I have a soft spot for Dunhill fragrances, as they capture understated elegance so well. Dunhill Century Blue, the follow-up to Dunhill Century, is no exception.
There’s a fresh citrus intro, thanks to notes of bergamot and mandarin orange, which continues throughout the fragrance’s progression. Spicy ginger amplifies the cleanness. It’s intermingled with a leathery orris note. The base warms up with the addition of amber, with a sprinkle of sea salt in the background.
There are no surprises here, but look no further if you want a scent that’s grown-up and strikes a skilful balance between tradition and modernity.
R1 495 for 100ml.
ELIE SAAB LE PARFUM ROYAL EDP (MAIA LERNOUT)
The Lebanese fashion designer had a huge hit on his hands when Francis Kurkdjian created Elie Saab Le Parfum EDP in 2011, with its accents of African orange blossom, jasmine, honey and patchouli. It has generated several flankers since then, including Rose Couture, Eclat d’Or and Le Parfum in White.
Apparently, the perfumer Maia Lernout produced Elie Saab Le Parfum Royal under the guidance of its original creator. It opens with a citrus burst of mandarin essence, which develops in a floral direction with two variations of rose: Turkish absolute and Bulgarian.
But this is without a doubt a patchouli bomb. You’ll either love its bold richness, or find it a tad overpowering.
R975 for 30ml, R1 540 for 50ml and R2 080 for 90ml.
BULGARI MAN WOOD NEROLI EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)
The original Bulgari Man was launched in 2010 and has spawned several successful flankers over the last decade, including Black Orient and Black Cologne.
The latest is a citrusy spin on its forerunner, Bulgari Man Wood. Neroli, bergamot and orange work in unison to set a fresh, sunny scene. The woody aspect comes through in the form of Virginia cedar and cypriol oil. There’s a big dose of ambroxan in this EDP. Depending on your views of this synthetic form of ambroxan, it will be good or bad news.
While it’s not the most exciting fragrance, it’s got the feel-good factor in abundance and is super reliable.
R1 260 for 60ml, R1 680 for 100ml.
OSCAR DE LA RENTA BELLA ROSA EDP (HARRY FREMONT)
Like its predecessor, Oscar de la Renta Bella Blanca, Bella Rosa comes in one of the prettiest bottles in the biz.
Where the original was all about white florals, the first flanker has a pink rose focus. It begins with a fresh touch of mandarin orange and freesia. That freshness continues through to the pink rose heart, which is soft and powdery, with jasmine in support. Amber stands out in the drydown and patchouli tempers the sweetness.
It’s romantic and very well crafted. This should come as no surprise. It was created by master perfumer Harry Fremont, who also produced the original.
R995 for 100ml.
PACO RABANNE INVICTUS LEGEND EDP (DOMITILLE BERTIER & NICOLAS BEAULIEU)
Originally launched in 2013, Invictus has been one of Paco Rabanne’s big sellers this decade. This is its fifth flanker/limited edition. I’ve never really got into the fragrance. Perhaps I was put off by the naff marketing.
That said, I’ve been enjoying this aquatic in the searing heat we’ve been having here recently in Johannesburg, in particular the salty opening. The marine vibe and amber dominate the scent, but are contrasted with notes of bay leaf, spice and geranium for interest.
It’s not going to win any trophies (sorry, couldn’t help myself) for originality, but works a treat as an everyday fragrance in summer.
R1 205 for 50ml and R1 585 for 100ml.
