Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP Review: Soothe Operator

Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP

2017. Seems like such a long time ago now, doesn’t it? Almost a different world. In fragrance terms, I remember it well for the release of one of my favourite tea scents, Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDT. I wasn’t the only one to be taken with it and the EDT turned out to be a big hit for the American beauty brand. So, of course, expectations were high when Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP was released rather quietly in 2022 (it’s only gathering momentum now).

Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDT

Is it another winner? Several flankers have joined the original so I give my quick thoughts on those too.

PERFUMER

Surrounded by women who loved the classics from Lancôme, Caron and Lanvin, Mexico-born Rodrigo Flores-Roux’s childhood memories of perfumes and the many conversations they sparked eventually led him to the renowned perfumery school ISIPCA in Versailles, France.

Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP - Rodrigo Flores-Roux

IMAGE: Givaudan.

An internship with the legendary Jean-Claude Ellena taught him many things, which he still applies to his work today. “He taught to formulate in such a way that every single raw material has a function, even though he’s a minimalist and I am not,” says the perfumer.

“He taught to formulate in such a way that every single raw material has a function, even though he’s a minimalist and I am not”

The 1998 release Clinique Happy EDT (co-created with Jean-Claude Delville) kick-started his fine fragrance career in a major way.

Twenty-five years later, Rodrigo Flores-Roux can count all these creations, among others, as his achievements: Donna Karan Black Cashmere EDP (2002); John Varvatos EDT (2004); Britney Spears Hidden Fantasy EDP (2008); Calvin Klein cK Free For Men EDT (2009); Houbigant Fougère Royale EDT (2010 reformulation); Juicy Couture Peace, Love & Juicy Couture EDP (2010); Tom Ford Neroli Portofino EDP (2011); Arquiste Anima Dulcis EDP (2012); Aedes de Venustas Oeillet Bengale EDP (2014); Carolina Herrera Herrera Tuberose EDP (2015); Commodity Leather EDP (2017); Estée Lauder Paradise Moon EDP (2021); and Dolce & Gabbana The One Gold For Men EDP Intense (2021).

John Varvatos Artisan Blu EDT

He’s also created several other EDTs for the Elizabeth Arden Green Tea range, including Summer (2005), Exotic (2009), Yuzu (2014) and Sakura Blossom (2021). So you could say the New York-based senior perfumer and vice-president of fragrance creation at Givaudan is well versed in the style of the brand.

SO WHAT DOES ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA EDP SMELL LIKE?

It starts out all fresh and light, with a combo of clary sage, a sea breeze accord (a subtle treatment, for those of who you break out into a sweat at the mere mention of anything aquatic) and Italian mandarin.

Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP

The perfumer’s skills are evident as the warmth of the white tea accord comes through (FYI: Camellia sinensis leaf extract, obtained from the leaves of tea, is featured on the ingredients list). Its milkiness is given floral touches of jasmine and rose water (the latter is now increasingly upcycled as an ingredient). The tea effect is enhanced by the herbaceousness of maté absolute. This note can be bitter; here it balances the delicate sweetness. There’s lots of musk (that would be the “trio of tranquillity musks” listed in the official notes) and a hint of vanilla-ish tonka bean in the drydown.

Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP

Now’s a good time to mention that Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP utilises Givaudan’s patented VivaScentz technology. We all know that fragrance has mood-enhancing qualities and this “innovation” I quote “is a design tool allowing perfumers to create compositions that will enhance well-being, based on the understanding of the link between fragrances and wellbeing”.

Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP

I contacted the perfumer to explain the workings of this technology but hadn’t heard from him as deadline loomed (understandably, he’s a busy man. Fortunately, all I really need to know is that Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP delivers all that it promises with consummate ease: refreshment, calmness and relaxation. And who doesn’t need that right now?

CASTING AND CAPTURING SHADOWS: I’m easily distracted, so Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP is just what I need.

Apart from the white tea accord and musk, none of the notes is particularly prominent, yet they all contribute to the overall effect. As an EDP, it costs a fraction more than the original EDT. It’s not a reinvention of my favourite but has more depth and definition.

This is versatile+, especially in spring and summer, so wear it wherever and whenever you want a sense of upliftment. With its feel-good properties, it’s also the perfect fragrance to wear to bed. (If you don’t already do this, I beseech you do so ASAP!)

Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP

A QUICK GUIDE TO FRAGRANCES IN THE ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA RANGE

All these releases give the winning formula a different spin on the white tea accord theme, with musky aplenty in the drydown.

ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA EDT (2017)

Inspired by the simple pleasure of a cup of tea, the opening of this Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Guillaume Flavigny and Caroline Sabas co-creation is a fresh ’n breezy mix of aquatic and mandarin notes, with musky sage in the background. The gently milky white tea accord is given powdery (iris) and herbal (maté) accents. Concluding with the warmth of musks and woods, it’s as good as I remember it when I tried it for the first time in 2017.

 ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA WILD ROSE EDT (2019)

The first of two flankers that were released simultaneously. Guillaume Flavigny and Rodrigo Flores-Roux add fresh ’n fruity touches of red currant, pear blossom, rose and peony to the white tea blend, with just the right amount of sweetness.

Elizabeth Arden White Tea Trio

ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA VANILLA ORCHID EDT (2019)

A richer, warmer, sweeter, almost gourmand-y take on the motif with marked notes of vanilla orchid, gardenia, jasmine and vanilla. A creamy and chic Gil Clavien composition.

ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA MANDARIN BLOSSOM EDT (2020)

Gil Clavien keeps it fresh, warm and inviting with sunny notes of mandarin orange, orange blossom, jasmine and osmanthus.

Elizabeth Arden White Tea Mandarin Blossom EDT

ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA GINGER LILY EDT (2021)

Transitions from fresh citrus notes of orange, bergamot and neroli to the warmth of ginger and ginger lily blossom. Uplifting spice and all things nice.

Stéphane Humbert Lucas Black Gemstone EDP + Stéphane Humbert Lucas Venom Incarnat EDP: Two Very Different Sides To The Niche Brand

Stéphane Humbert Lucas Black Gemstone EDP

Social media isn’t always a reliable gauge of a brand’s increasing popularity / success, but in the case of Stéphane Humbert Lucas, it most certainly is. While the surge might imply an overnight success story, it’s taken 10 years for the Paris-based house to get to where it is today.

Stéphane Humbert Lucas Black Gemstone EDP

I use Stéphane Humbert Lucas Gemstone EDP and Stéphane Humbert Lucas Venom Incarnat EDP to highlight why it should be on your fragrance radar ASAP. And because it’s not just any ol’ brand, I’ll approach these two standouts in a different way too.

Stéphane Humbert Lucas Venom Incarnat EDP

So who is Stéphane Humbert Lucas?

Artist, poet, perfumer… Stéphane Humbert Lucas is all these things and more. While studying painting, he came upon his sight-smell synaesthesia (FYI: the neuropsychological trait in which the stimulation of one sense causes the automatic experience of another sense, thanks Encyclopaedia Britannica). His company is best understood as the expression of all his creative impulses and takes in art, music and literature as influences, too.

IMAGE: Stéphane Humbert Lucas.

Niche quality, right?

If you must use that hackneyed phrase, yes. From concept to execution, bottles to juices, Stéphane Humbert Lucas epitomises the spirit of niche. However, I prefer his description: “luxury artistic perfumes”.

Those bottles! Are the scents just as beautiful?

Gosh, you are impatient! But I appreciate your enthusiasm in wanting to know more. Gorgeous, aren’t they? And very much part of the brand’s appeal.

What makes Stéphane Humbert Lucas Black Gemstone EDP so special?

This brand debut (2012) from La Collection 777 reflects the perfumer’s love of the Middle East, “the cradle of the universe”, and the spiritual significance of the number seven (peace, perfection, wisdom).

It’s inspired by the holy Black Stone in the Grand Mosque of Mecca, Saudi Arabia, and French artist Pierre Soulages’ use of the colour black and its light-reflecting qualities.

A brief shot of lemon freshness from Sicily and three varieties of cedar give way to something altogether deeper and thoroughly captivating in the form of myrrh tar. The perfumer makes the most of the gum-resin ingredient, an essential element of oriental compositions, with its balsamic and spicy properties. Its warmth is complemented by the smokiness of incense, earthiness of teakwood and delicately sweet vanilla tones of tonka bean in the drydown.

The kind of scent to enhance quiet contemplative moments on your own.

Stéphane Humbert Lucas Black Gemstone EDP

And Stéphane Humbert Lucas Venom Incarnat?

In terms of its scent profile, this 2022 release from La Collection Serpent (the range explores various symbolic interpretations of the snake) couldn’t be more different from Black Gemstone. Where Black Gemstone is deep, mysterious and respectful, Venom Incarnat presents a more playful and hedonistic side to the perfumer’s work.

This olfactory interpretation of a love potion seduces from the start, with its fruity combo of blackberry, strawberry and wild strawberry notes. There’s more gourmandise via caramel and cinnamon. Rose? No, that would be the raspberry note at play.

The drydown brings out the spicy-woody facets of vanilla and patchouli against the backdrop of the sensual muskiness of Russian leather.

I love how it lingers on the skin.

Stéphane Humbert Lucas Venom Incarnat EDP

Which other Stéphane Humbert Lucas fragrances would I recommend?

Quite a few actually, but these three (all from La Collection Serpent) are currently my top other picks. Ask me the same question next week and there’s a good chance, I’ll recommend some others.

Mortal Skin EDP (2015)

The first fragrance in the collection strikes a balance between intrigue and understatement. The fruitiness of blackberry meets a complex amber accord in which several notes are given room to breathe.

Stéphane Humbert Lucas Mortal Skin EDP

Lady White Snake EDP (2022)

Want florals? A hint of mandarin orange is followed by a full-on bouquet of the stuff (honeysuckle, orange blossom, tuberose, jasmine, magnolia), with leather and musk adding to its sensual glamour.

Stéphane Humbert Lucas Lady White Snake EDP

Sand Dance EDP (2022)

The warm spice of whisky and cacao is infused with the creaminess of sandalwood. Kashmir wood (aka the synthetic Cashmeran – you can read more about the ingredient and my recommendations here) accentuates the cosy vibe with its customary muskiness, while vanilla-ish benzoin completes the delicious delight.

Stéphane Humbert Lucas fragrances are available in South Africa from Galeries de Parfums.

Cashmeran Fragrances: Best Releases Featuring The Increasingly Ubiquitous Synthetic

Cashmeran Fragrances - Caron Narcisse Blanc EDP

Cashmeran fragrances? Cashmere meets meringue? Er, no, but the synthetic is ubiquitous, to say the least, and is found in everything from Cacharel LouLou EDP (1987) to Nasomatto Duro Extrait de Parfum (2007).

Discovered by John B Hall (the same International Flavors and Fragrances chemist who gave us Iso E Super) in the 1970s, it’s also known as blonde woods and cashmir wood.

Cashmeran Fragrances - Electimuss Mercurial Cashmere Parfum

It’s easy to understand its appeal to perfumers. More complex and versatile than most synthetics, it’s known for its cocooning muskiness and warm woodiness. It also has spicy, floral, fruity, powdery, pine-y nuances and is frequently used to build oud accords.

If you want to smell it in its unadulterated form, best get your nose on Escentric Molecules Molecule 05 EDT.

Cashmeran Fragrances - Escentric Molecules Molecule 05 EDT

The names of perfumers are included in brackets after the fragrances in this best cashmeran fragrances round-up.

FRÉDÉRIC MALLE DANS TES BRAS EDP* (MAURICE ROUCEL)

You know the niche cliché – the best perfumers and materials, unlimited creative freedom, quality and craftsmanship, blah-blah – but there’s much truth in it when we’re talking about this exemplary house. As with many fragrances from the company, this 2008 release is an undoubted genre best.

The muskiness of Cashmeran is the star of the show, with all the other notes contributing to its effectiveness. Violet and heliotropin bring on the powderiness, while sandalwood and white musk add smooth creaminess.

If Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur is unrestrained one-night-stand torridness, then Dans Tes Bras is the equivalent of a loving embrace.

Cashmeran Fragrances - Frédéric Malle Dans Tes Bras EDP

THE HOUSE OF OUD BREATH OF THE INFINITE EDP** (ANDREA CASOTTI)

A stunning bottle doesn’t necessarily translate into a stunning perfume. No such worries with this 2016 release from the Italian niche brand that’s increasingly impressing us with its highly developed sense of artistry.

At first, this EDP from the Desert Day Collection whispers the freshness of freesia and peony notes. And then the powdery fruitiness of peach makes an appearance. All the while there’s a deep and distinctive sensuality delivered through a blend of Cashmeran, musk, Ambroxan and a touch of Irian oud (sourced from Indonesia).

There’s something quite sombre about it and I keep on coming back for more to try to work it out. But sometimes mystery must be left alone to work its magic.

Cashmeran Fragrances - The House of Oud Breath of the Infinite EDP

NISHANE B-612 EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (CHRIS MAURICE)

I love the inspiration behind this 2018 release from the Turkish niche brand’s Imaginative Collection: the smell of the asteroid in The Little Prince by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. I love its execution, too.

It opens with the clean aromatics of lavender, cypress and geranium notes. Cashmeran gives it lots of musky woodiness, with sandalwood and cedar adding to the woody profile. Notes of powdery musk and earthy oakmoss in the drydown complete the composition.

Perhaps not as childlike as its inspiration, there’s still something comforting and nostalgic about this scent.

Cashmeran Fragrances - Nishane B-612 Extrait de Parfum

COACH FOR MEN PLATINUM EDP (BRUNO JOVANOVIC)

The American leather goods brand scored a big hit with their debut male fragrance in 2017, Coach For Men EDT. The 2018 follow-up, Coach For Men Platinum EDP, kept the good times coming in a richer, more sophisticated style.

The opening is fresh, spicy and aromatic, thanks to a combo of black pepper and juniper berry notes. A sliver of pineapple adds a touch of fruity sweetness. The smooth woodiness of Cashmeran is supported by the aromatics of geranium and sage. The drydown sees the creaminess of vanilla, sandalwood and a leather accord.

It encapsulates everything I enjoy about the brand: crowd-pleasing affordability.

Cashmeran Fragrances - Coach For Men Platinum EDP

ESCENTRIC MOLECULES ESCENTRIC 05 EDT* (GEZA SCHOEN)

For this 2020 release, the partner to Escentric Molecules Molecule 05 EDT, brand founder and perfumer Geza Schoen wanted to create a summery Mediterranean island fragrance without the aquatic clichés. He succeeds admirably with a scent that’s simple but evocative.

It opens with bright citrus notes of bergamot and orange. Hints of fig and fig leaf add to the sunny ambience. There’s more freshness of the aromatic variety from notes of juniper berry, rosemary and laurel, with the distinctive earthiness of cypress towering above it all.

The drydown displays Cashmeran at its resinous pine-y best, with supporting depth from mastic and labdanum. ISO E Super and Ambroxan also feature in the mix.

Cashmeran Fragrances - Escentric Molecules Escentric 05 EDT

FRAGRANCE DU BOIS NEW YORK 5TH AVENUE EDP** (SHADI SAMRA)

With its seductive-sounding name, Petales de Cashmere EDT, I thought the 2016 release from the French niche brand must be a Cashmeran treat. I was wrong. The synthetic is to be found in all its glory in the 2020 release New York 5th Avenue.

Inspired by winter in the city, it opens with a crisp take on bergamot and especially rose. It gets sweeter and warmer with the richness of caramel and the spicy earthiness of cypriol oil. A subtle note of violet adds a touch of powderiness. The drydown of vanilla, musk and guaiac wood is given a silky-smooth finish via Cashmeran.

While undeniably sweet, it’s seriously sophisticated stuff.

Cashmeran Fragrances - Fragrance du Bois New York 5th Avenue EDP

ELECTIMUSS MERCURIAL CASHMERE EXTRAIT DE PARFUM (SOFIA BARDELLI)

An apt name for a fragrance that changes from the light and bright to the sensual and deep.

This 2021 release from the London-based niche brand starts out in fresh and spicy mode with notes of Madagascan pink pepper, cardamom and Italian bergamot. The powder of iris and violet is paired with the white floral intensity of tuberose and the slight saltiness of a note of ambergris.

Cashmeran is at its musky-woody best in the drydown. There’s more sweetness (just enough) from notes of caramel, vanilla and tonka bean. I don’t pick up much of the listed oud note, but that’s just me being fussy.

Named for the Roman god Mercury, it might imply a rapid change in mood from charming to nasty, but this beauty is definitely about the former.

Cashmeran Fragrances - Electimuss Mercurial Cashmere Parfum

CARON NARCISSE BLANC EDP* (JEAN JACQUES)

The venerable French house that was founded by Ernest Daltroff in 1904 is experiencing a renaissance under the leadership of investor Ariane de Rothschild and in-house perfumer Jean Jacques.

Originally launched in 1923 and recreated in 2020, it begins with the citric tones of essences of Italian bergamot, sweet orange, Tunisian neroli and Tunisian petitgrain. It’s fresh and slightly green. The quality of the ingredients is evident.

It moves into more heady and honeyed territory with Tunisian orange blossom absolute and narcissus absolute. They are given a delectably creamy infusion with Cashmeran and vanilla, while another popular synthetic Ambroxan ensures it doesn’t collapse into heaviness. Superb stuff!

Cashmeran Fragrances - Caron Narcisse Blanc EDP

*These Cashmeran fragrances available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

**These Cashmeran fragrances available in South Africa at Galeries de Parfums.

Molton Brown Fragrances: So Much More On Offer Than Swish Bath & Body Products

Molton Brown Fragrances - Molton Brown Rose Dunes EDT

Who hasn’t helped themselves to Molton Brown products when staying at the right kind of hotel? But the British brand doesn’t only just produce top-notch amenity, bath and body products; the Molton Brown fragrances offering is equally impressive.

IMAGE: Molton Brown.

Founded by Caroline Burstein and Michael Collis (pictured, below) in 1971, the company started out as a hair salon on South Molton Street, London, and has come to represent the best of British over the years (all products are made in England).

IMAGE: Molton Brown.

Molton Brown made its scent debut in 1984 with Orange Grove (now known as Orange & Bergamot). In recent years, it has increasingly focused on these releases and offers them in both EDT (the transparent glass bottles) and EDP (the fancier bottles with resin caps) concentrations as part of its broader ranges. A clever way to get us to want even more of their goodies.

The brand’s sophisticated but ultra-wearable fragrances are clearly made with quality ingredients and also score points for their cruelty-free, 100% vegetarian credentials.

I’ve featured a mix of EDT and EDP formats here. While the concentration is obviously one of the main differences between the two, they also have varied note emphases.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Have you tried any Molton Brown fragrances?

Molton Brown Fragrances - Molton Brown Heavenly Gingerlily EDT

MOLTON BROWN RE-CHARGE BLACK PEPPER EDT (JACQUES CHABERT)

I love fragrances that live up to their names, and this 2015 release does just that with gusto.

The title note is at its warm and spicy best in the intro. It’s contrasted with the freshness of lemon and ginger. There’s more freshness, of the herbal variety, from notes of coriander and basil. The drydown is on the earthy side, with notes of vetiver and oakmoss adding the finishing touches.

If you want a softer take on spice, I recommend Molton Brown Fiery Pink Pepper in either the EDT or EDP formats.

Molton Brown Fragrances - Molton Brown Re-Charge Black Pepper EDT

MOLTON BROWN MESMERISING OUDH ACCORD & GOLD EDT (SYLVIE FISCHER)

Every brand has their take on oud, so I was expecting Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold to just be another one. I was wrong.

This 2015 release opens with the distinctive warmth of cinnamon leaf oil, without the overdone sweetness. There’s a hint of earthy nutmeg in the background. The spicy warmth continues with notes of myrrh and elemi.

Okay, so the headline oud is almost certainly not the real thing (hence the use of the word “accord”), but a quality synthetic version is blended oh so smoothly with honey, tobacco and vetiver to produce an enchanting effect.

Molton Brown Fragrances - Molton Brown Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold EDT

MOLTON BROWN HEAVENLY GINGERLILY EDT (JACQUES CHABERT)

I’m nowhere near Tahiti, the inspiration for this 2015 release, but this Jacques Chabert creation provides the exotic escapist goods in abundance.

Zesty ginger takes the lead in the intro, with additional spiciness from notes of cardamom and clove.

Notes of lily and tagetes pick up on the spice of the opening, while tuberose, animalic and creamy, also contributes to the island life ambience. After all that floralcy, the drydown is toned down but still appealing, with clean white musk blended with aromatic cedarwood and milky sandalwood.

This is strong stuff for an EDT, so only a spray or two is required.

Molton Brown Fragrances - Molton Brown Heavenly Gingerlily EDT

MOLTON BROWN TOBACCO ABSOLUTE EDT (ELSA CHABERT)

This 2015 release will tell you, in no uncertain terms, why I rate Molton Brown fragrances so highly.

The citric freshness of bergamot and grapefruit is given a spicy balsamic twist with elemi in the intro. The rich warmth of tobacco meets the sensual softness of cedarwood and powderiness of orris and violet. It gathers depth in the drydown with the spicy complexity of Peru balsam supported by the earthiness of patchouli.

It’s cosy, distinctive stuff and I love how this EDT contrasts fresh and warm facets with seemingly effortless flair.

Molton Brown Fragrances - Molton Brown Tobacco Absolute EDT

MOLTON BROWN COASTAL CYPRESS & SEA FENNEL EDT (CARLA CHABERT)

This 2017 release was one of the first Molton Brown fragrances I tried. I loved it so much, I had to try more releases from the brand. That’s how good it is.

It opens with a spicy sprinkle of cardamom, while notes of sea fennel and bergamot add to the freshness.

It’s not long before the sea notes come through. Together with the notes of cypress, cedarwood and musk, they create the effect of a salty and aromatic breeze on skin.

Energising and uplifting, it has more than enough character to stand out in the well-worn aquatics genre.

Molton Brown Fragrances - Molton Brown Coastal Cypress & Sea Fennel EDT

MOLTON BROWN RUSSIAN LEATHER EDT

Russian leather is a sub-category of the broader leather fragrance category and takes its inspiration from the birch oil-treated skins that were originally exported from the country until the early 20th century.

While Molton Brown’s 2017 contribution to the genre doesn’t quite scale the heights of the standard-bearer Chanel Cuir de Russie, it’s still darn good stuff and significantly cheaper than the classic from the French brand.

It’s deep and rich from the opening, with notes of black tea and elemi at the fore. That gathers momentum with the green aromatics of pine. When the leather accord comes through, it’s infused with the smokiness of notes of tobacco, birch, vetiver and cade. It’s animalic but very wearable at the same time.

Molton Brown Fragrances - Molton Brown Russian Leather EDT

MOLTON BROWN MILK MUSK EDT (MAÏA LERNOUT)

Comforting and enveloping… I can’t think of a better way to conclude a rough week than with this 2020 release.

It opens with the subtle fruity notes of pear and peach. Perfumer Maïa Lernout (who also created the beautiful floral tropicana of Flora Luminare for the company) adroitly builds a milky accord around musk, Ambroxan, vanilla, white cedarwood and tonka bean.

It’s sweet, powdery, nostalgic, sensual and soothing. Just what I need when I’m feeling somewhat frazzled.

Molton Brown Fragrances - Molton Brown Milk Musk EDT

MOLTON BROWN LABDANUM DUSK EDP (NATHALIE KOOBUS)

This 2021 release is every bit as mysterious as it sounds.

The opening is all about the woody aromatics of cedar, with the leathery spice of saffron in support. There’s spicy earthiness from notes of cypriol and patchouli. Labdanum, an integral part of an amber accord, dominates the drydown with its deep muskiness. Touches of oud (sustainably sourced from Dubai, according to the company website) and vanilla complete the composition with elegant finesse.

It’s seriously good stuff that strikes a deft balance between its Middle Eastern inspiration and accessible Western wearability.

Molton Brown Fragrances - Molton Brown Labdanum Dusk EDP

MOLTON BROWN DELICIOUS RHUBARB & ROSE EDP (VANESSA PRUDENT)

The name of this 2022 release says it all.

There’s lots of juicy fruit in the opening, thanks to notes of litchi and raspberry, with a note of grapefruit balancing all the sweetness. The rhubarb is just how I love it: fruity and spicy.

Notes of peony and rose keep the freshness going, with the subtle rosy spiciness of pink pepper in the background. The drydown belongs to the softness of cedarwood and musk. It’s shot through with the creaminess of vanilla.

It’s one of the best fruity-florals I’ve tried in recent years, and that says something.

Molton Brown Fragrances - Molton Brown Delicious Rhubarb & Rose EDP

MOLTON BROWN ROSE DUNES EDT (PHILIPPE PAPARELLA-PARIS)

The brand’s 2022 release presents a more opulent and oriental take on the queen of florals.

That vibe is evident from the first spray with its intriguing combo of spicy saffron and green cassis. The rose, woody and powdery, is paired with the green aromatics of geranium for extra effect. Patchouli, sustainably sourced from Salawesi island, Indonesia, is known for its earthy spiciness, and gives the composition sensual depth together with musk.

Molton Brown Fragrances - Molton Brown Rose Dunes EDT

All these Molton Brown fragrances available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.  

 

Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede EDP Review: A Different Kind Of Leather

Marc-Antoine Barrrois Ganymede EDP

Choo! Choo! We all know the sound of the frag hype-train as it gathers steam. And there’s certainly been a lot of fanfare around Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede EDP since its release in 2019.

Marc-Antoine Barrrois Ganymede EDP

Following stints at Dominique Sirop, Jean Paul Gaultier at Hermès and Giambattista Valli, Marc-Antoine Barrois (pictured, below) launched his own couture brand for men in 2009. He made his fragrance debut in 2016 with the cult favourite Marc-Antoine Barrois B683 EDP, and the recently released Marc-Antoine Barrois Encelade EDP looks set to become equally popular.

IMAGE: Olivier Yoan for Marc-Antoine Barrrois.

Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede triumphed at The Fragrance Foundation Awards 2020 in France, the UK and Russia, and was a finalist in The Art and Olfaction Awards in the same year.

It’s being hailed as one of the best leather fragrances in recent years. I tell you why it’s so special.

PERFUMER

I’m starting to think Quentin Bisch must be one of the busiest perfumers around.

Born in Strasbourg and a graduate of the renowned Givaudan Perfumery School, he made his fine fragrance debut in 2010 with the relatively unknown Reminiscence Essence EDP.

IMAGE: Givaudan.

Creations for brands such as Etat Libre d’Orange (La Fin du Monde EDP 2013), Ex Nihilo (Fleur Narcotique EDP, 2014), Mugler (A*Men Ultra Zest EDT, 2015) and Jean Paul Gaultier (Le Male Essence de Parfum EDP, 2016) showed he was a talent to watch, whether for designer or niche.

Quentin Bisch has been in non-stop demand ever since, with everyone seeming to want a piece of the “star perfumer” (he’s too humble and focused on his work to let such flattery go to his head).

Parfums de Marly Delina EDP (2017), L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP (2018), Azzaro Wanted by Night EDP (2018), Chloé Nomade EDP (2018), Carolina Herrera Bad Boy EDT (2019), Paco Rabanne 1 Million Parfum (2020), Essential Parfums Bois Impérial EDP (2020), Maison Crivelli Hibiscus Mahajád Extrait de Parfum (2021), Kenzo Homme EDT Intense (2021) and Van Cleef & Arpels 22 Vendôme EDP (2022) are just some of his achievements.

SO WHAT DOES MARC-ANTOINE BARROIS GANYMEDE EDP SMELL LIKE?

It starts out quietly with a citrus note of mandarin orange, fresh and unsweetened. The spice saffron is known for its leathery qualities and its treatment here is deft and without any heavy-handedness.

What makes this scent most intriguing is the dynamic between the airiness of violet leaf, floral fruitiness of osmanthus and herbaceousness of immortelle. The combined effect is softly salty and metallic. It sounds clinical but is given a sensual musky aspect with the synthetic Ambroxan.

Marc-Antoine Barrrois Ganymede EDP

It’s all held together with a liberal dose of the Givaudan captive molecule Akigalawood. Quentin Bisch has used this ingredient in other creations of his, including Mugler Angel Nova EDP, Etat Libre d’Orange Experimentum Crucis EDP and Ex Nihilo Cuir Celeste EDP. Here, it has elements of patchouli and woody spice.

Marc-Antoine Barrrois Ganymede EDP Detail

Much is made of the collaboration between brands and perfumers in an increasingly creation-by-committee world. It’s clear the partnership between Marc-Antoine Barrois and Quentin Bisch epitomises what niche is all about: the exploration and execution of unusual ideas (yes, a designer brand can be niche too).

Marc-Antoine Barrrois Ganymede EDP

IMAGE: Olivier Yoan for Marc-Antoine Barrrois.

The beauty of Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede lies in its subtle sophistication and that it doesn’t venture into obviously animalic territory. While understated, it’s also multi-faceted, unique and, as per its inspiration – “the two fellow artists have dreamt of this new planet: Ganymede, the rocky satellite of Jupiter discovered in 1610 by Galileo, is both luminous and covered with salt-water oceans” – a tad otherworldly (some might even say disgusting and strange, I disagree).

Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede EDP is available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances: From The Classics to Thoroughly Modern

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Comme des Garçons 2 EDP

One of the mostly widely used ingredients in perfumery, aldehydes are probably also the most misunderstood. Chanel No 5 is the most famous example (its creator Ernest Beaux famously over-dosed the original parfum version in 1921), but it was not the first. That honour belongs to L.T. Piver Rêve d’Or from 1905.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Chanel No 5 Parfum

IMAGE: Chanel.

Aldehydes feature in a veritable roll-call of all-time classics, including Carven Ma Griffe Parfum (1946), Rochas Madame Rochas EDT (1960), Hermès Calèche EDT (1961), Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche EDT (1971) and Dior Dune EDT (1991).

Without getting too technical, in perfumery, aldehydes refer to a large family of compounds, such as heptanal, octanal, nonanol and decanol. Some of them are naturals, while many others have been synthesised in labs.

Depending on which one is used and how they are used, they can give compositions a clean, citric, soapy, laundry-fresh, waxy, between-the-sheets sensual, even metallic vibe. They are particularly useful in helping give top and floral notes extra sparkle and pop.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Comme des Garçons 2 Man EDT

SPICE AND ALL THINGS NICE: With its lighter dose, Comme des Garçons 2 Man EDT also gets a nod in this best aldehyde fragrances round-up.

Aren’t aldehydes old-fashioned? Firstly, I have no problem with smelling old-fashioned / vintage-y / mature. But if you insist, they can also be used in a thoroughly modern way.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

What are your best aldehyde fragrances?

LANVIN ARPÈGE EDP (PAUL VACHER & ANDRÉ FRAYSSE)

Widely acknowledged as one of the perfume greats and justifiably spoken about in hallowed tones, Lanvin Arpège was the second fragrance release from the Paris-based designer Jeanne Lanvin (the house’s debut from 1924, My Sin, also features aldehydes).

The designer’s daughter Marguerite loved playing arpeggios and inspired the name of this 1927 release. Almost a century and several reformulations later, it retains its majestic beauty in a complex yet understated style.

From the aldehydic freshness of the opening, with subtle nuances of peach, honeysuckle and citrus, through to the delicate florals (notes of jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, among others) and amber accord that follow, I can see how it earned its place in The Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2005.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Lanvin Arpege EDP

ELIZABETH ARDEN BLUE GRASS EDP

I thought I knew the American brand pretty well until I came across this 1936 release hidden away on the budget shelves, as one does. It very much set the tone for the releases that followed: accessible and affordable appeal.

Aldehydes give the opening floral notes (lavender, rose, jasmine) plenty of ping and pop. Okay, I’ll stop all this alliteration nonsense now. Notes of lily, clove and (the rarely used) laurel take it in a spicy direction, with woody depth from vetiver and sandalwood in the drydown.

It’s a great everyday choice with a touch of elegance.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Elizabeth Arden Blue Grass EDP

ESTÉE LAUDER WHITE LINEN EDP (SOPHIA GROJSMAN)

So why does Estée Lauder have such a special place in the fragrance memories of so many of our mothers and grandmothers? This 1978 release will tell you all you need to know. The company’s founder wanted something fresh and crisp, à la white sheets, and that’s exactly what perfumer Sophia Grojsman gave her, with sensuality to spare.

It makes a cool statement from the get-go, thanks to notes of Bulgarian rose, jasmine and muguet wrapped in soapy aldehydes. Violet and orris do their powdery thing, with earthy support from vetiver and moss in the drydown.

While it’s been reformulated, it has lost none of its elegance. I also recommend Estée Lauder Knowing EDP for its richer and heavier 1980s-style spin on the theme.

IMAGE: Estée Lauder.

GLORIA VANDERBILT EDT (SOPHIA GROJSMAN)

What gets me going even more than a luxurious fragrance? A cheap, cheap fragrance that smells luxurious. Launched in 1982, the debut scent from the American fashion designer (celeb trivia aside: you might know her son, Anderson Cooper, from CNN) was created by none other than the great Sophia Grojsman (Lancôme Trésor EDP, Estée Lauder White Linen EDP, Frédéric Malle Outrageous EDP).

Gloria Vanderbilt EDT opens with aldehydes on high and a sliver of pineapple in the background. Then it’s the turn of a floral bouquet that includes tuberose, ylang-ylang, jasmine and, in particular, carnation. The drydown is a creamy joy, with sandalwood, vanilla and cinnamon notes.

This EDT fades fairly fast, but for the price, top up as you go.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Gloria Vanderbilt EDT

CHANEL NO 5 EDP (JACQUES POLGE)

To quote Julie Andrews in The Sound of Music, “Let’s start at the very beginning, a very good place to start.” Without hubris, I can confidently say that Chanel set the standard for modern perfumery in 1921 when she briefed Russian-born nose Ernest Beaux to create “a woman’s perfume with a woman’s scent”.

Chanel No 5 was revolutionary in several ways. Unlike many of the perfumes that were popular at the time, it didn’t focus on one specific note. Most importantly, it showcased aldehydes, with their fizzy soapiness, to spectacular effect.

In 1986, Jacques Polge reinterpreted the original in an EDP concentration. Its aldehydic opening is enhanced by citrus notes of neroli and bergamot. A large shot of ylang-ylang introduces a rich yellow floral dimension to the composition. It’s followed by an elaborate bouquet of iris, May rose, lily-of-the-valley and jasmine notes in the fragrance’s heart. Sandalwood and vanilla make for memorable partners in the smooth and sensual drydown.

Even if you do find it too “mature”, there’s no getting away from the influence of Chanel No 5.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Chanel No 5 EDP

ELIZABETH TAYLOR WHITE DIAMONDS EDT (CARLOS BENAÏM)

Although she’s no longer with us, Elizabeth Taylor remains the grande dame of celebrity fragrances. This 1991 release is the perfect example of why the genre has much to offer, contrary to the snobs who say otherwise. An all-time classic, it was inducted into the Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2009, the first celebrity fragrance to receive that recognition.

It opens with the distinctive soapiness of aldehydes mingling with the spiciness of lily and honeyed citrus of neroli. As with many perfumes from that era, there’s a complex bouquet of florals, including notes of jasmine, ylang-ylang and narcissus, to lose yourself in. But the tuberose still shines through with its narcotic qualities.

Settling on a base of musk and sandalwood, it’s gorgeously glamorous and way more expensive smelling than its price suggests.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds EDT

COMME DES GARÇONS 2* (MARK BUXTON)

British perfumer Mark Buxton announced his prodigious talent when he created the Japanese fashion company’s eponymous debut in 1994. True to the brand’s avant-garde aesthetic, his 1999 creation, Comme des Garçons 2, is a brilliant display of intriguing contrasts.

With its combo of aldehydes, angelica root and magnolia, the intro is dazzlingly fresh yet full of character. A synthetic note of ink reveals the scent’s darker side and cumin adds warm spiciness to the distinctive blend. The smokiness of incense and vetiver is paired with the muskiness of a labdandum-dominant amber accord in the drydown.

If you still think aldehydes are old-fashioned, this modern classic will put you right. Comme des Garçons 2 Man EDT, also created by Buxton, is worth checking out for its lighter dose of aldehydes mixed with woods and spice.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Comme des Garçons 2 EDP

CONTRASTS: Is Comme des Garçons 2 EDP one of your best aldehyde fragrances?

FRÉDÉRIC MALLE IRIS POUDRE Edp* (PIERRE BOURDON)

It doesn’t get any better than Frédéric Malle Iris Poudre, one of the launch releases from the year 2 000 that established the Paris-based niche house’s impeccable credentials.

This creation opens with the floral richness of ylang-ylang. Notes of violet and rose lay the powdery path for the headline iris. Iris can be a bit of an ice queen, but I find this take welcoming and embracing once you get to know her. There’s also an aldehydic element, but it never steals the show. It gives the composition a classic feel.

Warm and smooth sandalwood defines the drydown, with musk and tonka bean lingering sensually on the skin. What a treat!

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Frederic Malle Iris Poudre EDP

LE LABO NEROLI 36 EDP* (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)

Le Labo Neroli 36 was one of the launch fragrances from the NYC-based niche brand, but doesn’t get as much attention as, say, Santal 33 or Bergamote 22. Which is a pity, because this 2006 release is enchanting stuff from the first spray.

The title note brings on the sun with its honey-ish qualities. It’s amplified by notes of mandarin orange with a slight aldehydic vibe. The floral mood continues with notes of jasmine and rose, fresh and gently sweet. Musk and vanilla mingle in the warm drydown of this thoroughly cheerful composition.

Want even more aldehydes? Then look out for the brand’s city exclusive (Dallas) Le Labo Aldehyde 44 EDP.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Le Labo Neroli 36 EDP

BYREDO BLANCHE EDP*

This 2009 release epitomises the Swedish niche brand’s simple yet effective approach to perfumery.

There’s a big blast of fresh and soapy aldehydes in the opening. A trio of florals – rose centifolia, peony, violet – are given the powdery treatment. Clean and sensual at the same time, the drydown features musk and sandalwood.

With the aldehydic prominence, even though used in a modern way, this fragrance is not for everyone, but will appeal to those looking for something offbeat.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Byredo Blanche EDP

CHANEL NO 5 L’EAU EDT (OLIVIER POLGE)

There’s no denying the all-time classic credentials of Chanel No 5. But there are those who feel that the parfum and EDP versions are too heavy and, dare I say it, old-fashioned.

It’s for these reasons that the French luxury fashion brand took the big step in 2016 of launching a lighter version of its icon. Ostensibly aimed at a generation of younger women who wanted to be modern without smelling like their mothers and grandmothers, Chanel No 5 L’Eau epitomises casual chic.

The intro is all freshness, with notes of lemon, mandarin and orange in play. There’s no mistaking the soapy presence of aldehydes, albeit more toned down than the original. The richness of ylang-ylang takes the lead in the floral heart, with hints of jasmine and rose in the background. Musk dominates the drydown and completes what is a very worthwhile addition to the Chanel No 5 franchise.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Chanel No L'Eau EDT

GUERLAIN MUSC NOBLE EDP (THIERRY WASSER)

Officially, this 2018 release from the French brand’s top-notch Les Absolus d’Orient Collection opens with notes of pink peppercorn, saffron and geranium, but I get a thoroughly addictive and enticing metallic whiff. Aldehydes alert! What a start!

The real focus of the fragrance is musk and rose, and what a wonderful combo it is with its sensual and sophisticated powderiness. It gathers depth with the drydown which features an amber accord and cedarwood. Cistus adds an animalic leather undercurrent.

With its metallic vibe, this is bold and distinctive stuff. I wouldn’t want it any other way! Guerlain Encens Mythique EDP, also from the same range, features a beautiful blend of aldehydes, incense and ambergris.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Guerlain Musc Noble EDP

DIPTYQUE FLEUR DE PEAU EDP* (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

Fleur de Peau triumphed in the Perfume Extraordinaire and Best New Women’s Fragrance categories at the 2019 Fragrance Foundation Awards in London. One sniff of this EDP and you’ll understand why.

The fresh and rosy accents of pink peppercorns opens the scent and then it’s the turn of iris, with its cool powderiness, on beautiful display. But what really makes this fragrance special is its use of Ambrettolide, the musky molecule known for its smooth, pear-ish qualities, in combination with clean musks.

Olivier Pescheux tells me he used aldehydes C-12 MNA and C12-Laurique in this creation. I reckon you’ll smell them in action in the way they lift this 2018 release to luxuriously romantic stuff.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Diptyque Fleur de Peau EDP

MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN 724 EDP* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)

The Paris-based perfumer hasn’t produced something new for quite some time (the 2021 Cologne Forte releases were variations on the best-selling Aqua range). His much-publicised appointment as Dior’s in-house perfumer might have something to do with that.

“It brings a sensation of comfort and protection, like that of cleanliness, that I crave when I’m walking around the city,” he says on the brand website about the recently released 724.

That cleanliness comes through with its opening of aldehydes – softly metallic and fizzy – and citric bergamot from Calabria. There’s more freshness of the airy white floral kind from notes of jasmine absolute from Egypt, seringa (also known as mock orange), freesia and lily-of-the-valley. White musk takes the lead in the drydown, with creamily cosy support from sandalwood.

Okay, so maybe 724 isn’t absolutely new either, as some people are already grumbling online. It sees the nose playing the fresh-floral-musk riff he does to perfection. However, I think it’s a great example of how aldehydes can be used in a timeless and contemporary fashion.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Maison Francis Kurkdjian 724 EDP

*All these best aldehyde fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

Best Honey Fragrances: Sweet Sophistication

Best Honey Fragrances - Initio Addictive Vibration EDP

Show me the honey! Apologies to the makers of Jerry Maguire, I had to adapt that classic cinematic phrase to suit my purposes for this round-up of the best honey fragrances.

Best Honey Fragrances - Amouage Crimson Rocks EDP

No surprises, honey hits the sweet spot with the ongoing popularity of gourmands. It’s also used to texture floral notes with a sunny aspect. Either way, I love how perfumers interpret the note, often recreating the variety of the real thing according to its nectar source.

I explore some of the genre’s most sophisticated options. What are your best honey fragrances?

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Best Honey Fragrances - Chanel Beige EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÉCHANT LOUP EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

As their “perfumer in residence” for 10 years, Bertrand Duchaufour created beauties such as Timbuktu EDT, Nuit de Tubéreuse EDP and Dzongkha EDT for the pioneering French niche brand.

Méchant Loup (French for “Bad Wolf”) can be enjoyed as a conceptual fragrance of sorts – Little Red Riding Hood’s journey through the woods. The sweeter aspects – honey, praline and myrrh – are given a suitable twist with dark accents of chestnut, liquorice and woods.

At first this 1997 release didn’t tempt me that much, but now I can’t get enough of it. It’s a gourmand with bite.

Best Honey Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mechant Loup EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TEA FOR TWO EDT (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

I can’t recommend this 2000 release enough. Twenty-two years after its launch, its beauty commands absolute respect.

From the first spray, there’s the rich woody smokiness of black lapsang souchong (a traditional Chinese tea). Cinnamon, anise and ginger soften the initial intensity with mellow spice, while a note of gingerbread adds a gourmand aspect. There’s more deliciousness in the drydown, courtesy of notes of powdery honey and dark vanilla.

Warm and welcoming, it’s the equivalent of an olfactory embrace. Just what we need in these turbulent times.

Best Honey Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two EDT

CHANEL BEIGE EDP (JACQUES POLGE)

Inspired by Coco Chanel’s favourite colour (“I take refuge in beige because it’s natural,” she said, according to the French luxury brand’s website), this EDP is a 2016 addition to the upmarket Les Exclusifs de Chanel private range. Who knew beige could be so vibrant?

The tropical tones of frangipani – all fruity creaminess – are blended with the spiciness of hawthorn to produce a lush mood. You’d never know Hawthorn is created in the lab through synthetic means. The sweetness of these florals is accentuated by a dollop of honey in a thoroughly refined Chanel way.

Nominally a female fragrance, Beige is unisex in my opinion and highly recommended for the more open-minded, olfactorily speaking.

Best Honey Fragrances - Chanel Beige EDP

MUGLER A*MEN PURE HAVANE EDT (JACQUES HUCLIER)

The original and innovative Mugler A*Men was launched in 1996 and each addition to the franchise manages to add something different to the theme.

Launched in 2011, Pure Havane is a gourmand tobacco fragrance. It’s sweet from top to bottom but has plenty of character to prevent it from becoming a cloying confection. It opens with the rich waft of cherry tobacco that’s supported by notes of honey and vanilla. Cacao and patchouli add depth to the mix, while an amber accord keeps it warm and cosy.

It’s the probably the most popular A*Men flanker and, for the record, it has not been discontinued.

Best Honey Fragrances - Mugler Amen Pure Havane EDT

DIPTYQUE VOLUTES EDP* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

Something chic, something comfortable, something understated…

Tobacco extends a warm welcome that’s impossible to refuse in this 2012 release from the Paris-based niche company, while an iris accord reveals her seductive powdery charms. Delicately sweet notes of honey and cinnamon add to the sensual ambience. Opoponax keeps it velvety smooth.

Everything is in perfect harmony in this stellar Fabrice Pellegrin creation. The EDT version, created by the same accomplished perfumer, is also a great option.

Best Honey Fragrances - Diptyque Volutes EDP

PARFUMS DE MARLY OAJAN EDP*

Parfums de Marly must be one of the most popular niche brands in recent years, with big releases such as Herod, Layton and Pegasus proving to be lucrative crowd-pleasers for brand founder Julien Sprecher.

A 2013 release from the less-hyped Arabian Breed Collection, Oajan gets the balance between accessibility and quality right.

Spicy cinnamon and powdery honey make for a great combo in the opening, with the fruity floralcy of osmanthus in support. The amber accord – lots of vanilla, benzoin and tonka bean here – is all about creaminess. Patchouli gives the EDP earthy depth.

Some of the house’s releases can be a tad aggressive, but this one is the epitome of elegance.

Best Honey Fragrances - Parfums de Marly Oajan EDP

MEMO ILHA DO MEL EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)

Ilha do Mel. A small island off the coast of Brazil with beautiful beaches and Atlantic forests. The name alone of this 2015 release from the Paris-based niche house’s Graines Vagabondes Collection sounds exotic and far, far away from reality. I don’t need any persuasion to take a trip with this beautiful EDP.

Memo fragrances are layered and maximalist, and this one is no different. Juniper oil and hyacinth provide brief green freshness in the opening. And then a floral bouquet of broom, orange blossom, gardenia and especially jasmine are given a luxurious honey treatment. Which makes perfect sense seeing that Ilha do Mel means “honey island”. Musk and vanilla prolong the experience in the drydown.

It’s heady and sweet, but not ickily so. And as always with Memo, the bottle is gorgeous.

Best Honey Fragrances - Memo Ilha do Mel EDP

INITIO ADDICTIVE VIBRATION EDP* (MAURICE ROUCEL & PIERRE-CONSTANTIN GUÉROS)

I’m feeling all hot and bothered. And not because of the temperatures outside. I’ve just finished reading the website blurb for this 2016 release from the French niche brand’s Absolutes Collection: “a body of lustful scent in a magma of flesh.” Gulp!

Over-statement aside, this EDP deserves as much attention as the house’s big releases such as Oud for Greatness EDP and Musk Therapy EDP.

The combo of floral notes – apple blossom, orange blossom, vanilla orchid – is sweetly seductive stuff. The animalic honey note stands out among the potent bouquet, while musk maintains the sensual vibe in the drydown.

Best Honey Fragrances - Initio Addictive Vibration EDP

SWEET SEDUCTION: Is Initio Addictive Vibration EDP one of your best honey fragrances?

KILIAN GOLD KNIGHT EDP (PASCAL GAURIN)

The Paris-based niche brand founded by the heir to the Hennessy fortune, Kilian Hennessy, doesn’t mess around when it comes to luxurious fragrances and prices.

A 2017 release from The Cellars Collection, Kilian Gold Knight EDP is deliciously enticing from the opening notes of faintly liquorice-ish anise and crisply citrus bergamot. Honey and vanilla mingle to produce warm and smooth powderiness. The classy sweetness is maintained in the dark earthiness of the patchouli drydown.

One of the house’s best releases, it justifies its price tag. If you want something more obviously opulent, there’s also the 2009 release, Kilian Back to Black EDP, to sniff out.

 

Best Honey Fragrances - Killian Gold Knight EDP

CARTIER L’ENVOL DE CARTIER EDT (MATHILDE LAURENT)

L’Envol de Cartier was launched as an EDP in 2016 and I was immediately taken by its rich and complex treatment of honey. So, of course, I expected great things of the EDT version, which was launched very quietly in 2017. Let’s just say Cartier doesn’t do hype.

The EDT opens with a burst of clean citrus notes, with honey slowly developing in the background. When the honey takes centre stage, it’s a light and airy take on the note. Good news for those who might have found the honey in the EDP version too much of a good thing.

Artemisia adds a note of herbal interest, while the base of musk and guaiac notes balances the initial freshness of the scent. Unlike the EDP, there is no floral element and L’Envol de Cartier EDT is an altogether lighter and brighter affair. Beautiful simplicity at its best!

Best Honey Fragrances - Cartier L'Envol de Cartier EDT

BEAUTY OF SIMPLICITY: Cartier L’Envol de Cartier is my favourite in this best honey fragrances selection.

BYREDO CASABLANCA LILY EXTRAIT DE PARFUM*

The Night Veils Collection (all extrait de parfum concentration) shows Byredo in a completely different light. No prizes for guessing the inspiration for Casablanca Lily, a 2019 release from the Swedish niche brand.

It opens with a combo of creamy gardenia and juicy plum. The sensual ambience picks up a notch with the appearance of slightly animalic Indian tuberose. There’s a hint of spicy carnation in the background too.

Sweet and pure, the honey accord is something to behold. It’s supported by the floral tones of a rosewood note.

Best Honey Fragrances - Byredo Casablanca Lily Extrait de Parfum

AMOUAGE CRIMSON ROCKS EDP* (DOMITILLE MICHALON BERTIER)

Any doubts that the brand that put Arabian perfumery on the world map, under the creative direction of Christopher Chong, would take a dip after his departure in 2019 were laid to rest with this 2020 release. Part of the Renaissance Collection and inspired by the beauty of the Al Hajar Mountains, Oman, at dusk, this contribution to the best honey fragrances is one for the romantics.

That mood is on display from the warm and spicy opening notes of cinnamon bark essential and pink pepper. Two extracts of rose meet a Jujube honey accord, with its rich date-ish nuances, to create a suitably Middle Eastern vibe.

The drydown is on the woody side, with the earthiness of oak supported by vetiver.

Best Honey Fragrances - Amouage Crimson Rocks EDP

MOLTON BROWN MESMERISING OUDH ACCORD & GOLD EDT* (SYLVIE FISCHER)

The British brand that’s best known for its bath and body products also produces quality fragrances such as this 2015 release.

The spicy freshness of notes of bergamot and elemi transitions to the warmth of cinnamon and nutmeg. A black tea accord adds a green dimension to the composition. It builds up to the drydown featuring rich and resinous oud in partnership with caramel-ish tobacco. Although in a secondary role, the honey accord contributes to the oriental atmosphere with soft sweetness.

If you’re feeling really indulgent, you could pair it with the matching Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold Bath & Shower Gel featuring 23.5-carat gold flakes. The 2019 EDP version (pictured here) has pronounced accents of saffron and styrax.

Best Honey Fragrances - Molton Brown Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold EDP

*These best honey fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics

 

Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée EDP Review

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP

Since its launch in 2006, Terre d’Hermès has achieved “modern classic” status. So any new flanker to this much-loved fragrance is bound to be scrutinised and compared with the original created by Jean-Claude Ellena. I’m talking about you, Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée EDP, which was launched in 2022.

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP

Limited editions aside, it helps that the French luxury brand has treated its prized perfume with the reverence it deserves and resisted the temptation to regularly release a different version of it.

PERFUMER

Before succeeding Jean-Claude Ellena as the company’s in-house perfumer, Christine Nagel made a name for herself with Cartier Eau de Cartier EDT (2001), Narciso Rodriguez For Her EDT (2003), Dior Miss Dior Cherie EDP (2005), Dolce & Gabbana The One EDP (2006), Atkinsons 24 Old Bond Street EDC (2013), Giorgio Armani Si EDP (2013) and Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt Cologne (2014), among others.

An impressive résumé that reflects the Swiss perfumer’s knack for commercial and creative success.

Since 2016, she has maintained the Hermès reputation for refined luxury with Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate EDC (2016), Galop d’Hermès Parfum (2016), Twilly d’Hermès EDP (2017), Un Jardin Sur La Lagune EDT (2019) and H24 EDT (2021).

Hermès Galop d'Hermès Parfum - Christine Nagel

“With Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée, I wanted to challenge the idea that freshness is synonymous with a certain lightness. I sought to express the intense freshness of a land covered with ice, and the fusion of these two elements, a source of primary, regenerative energy for men,” says the perfumer on the brand’s website.

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP - Christine Nagel

SO WHAT DOES TERRE D’HERMÈS EAU GIVRÉE EDP SMELL LIKE?

The opening is all about citron (also known as cédrat), the ancient citrus variety. Here, it’s fresh, bright and slightly sour, as to be expected, but infused with a cool and invigorating iciness. Love it already! The aromatics of juniper berries and citric spice of timur pepper prolong the freshness.

Woody warmth features prominently in the drydown. And, of course, it wouldn’t be Terre d’Hermès without a dose of conceptual minerality, achieved through synthetic means.

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP

Christine Nagel was aiming for the frisson of powerful freshness, and she’s achieved that with her customary expertise.

It’s too sophisticated to be called a “freshie”. Global warming meet your nemesis, olfactorily speaking, that is. With its crisp and cool character, this one is perfect for periods of relentless heat.

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP

Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée EDP is available in South Africa at Woolworths

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense Review: A Thoroughly Modern Aquatic

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense

Is it hot, or is it just me? No wonder I’m reaching for one of the best aquatics in recent years: Kenzo Homme EDT Intense. This 2021 release from the Japanese fashion brand (part of the LVMH conglomerate since its acquisition in 1993) sees Kenzo back in the masculine fragrance game in a big way.

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense

In recent years, the house has focused on its female ranges – Flower and World – so good to see it investing in its male scents again and especially one as good as Kenzo Homme EDT Intense.

PERFUMER

Quentin Bisch is admirably focused on his job to be distracted by flattering descriptions such as “star perfumer”.

The Strasbourg-born Givaudan Perfumery School graduate made his fine fragrance debut in 2010 with the relatively unknown Reminiscence Essence EDP.

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense - Quentin Bisch

IMAGE: Givaudan.

And then Etat Libre d’Orange La Fin du Monde EDP (2013), Ex Nihilo Fleur Narcotique EDP (2014), Mugler A*Men Ultra Zest EDT (2015) and Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum EDP (2016) gave him the opportunity to show his creative versatility whether for designer or niche brands.

He hasn’t stopped working, with creations such as Parfums de Marly Delina EDP (2017), L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP (2018), Azzaro Wanted by Night EDP (2018), Chloé Nomade EDP (2018), Carolina Herrera Bad Boy EDT (2019), Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede EDP (2019), Paco Rabanne 1 Million Parfum (2020), Essential Parfums Bois Impérial EDP (2020), Maison Crivelli Hibiscus Mahajád Extrait de Parfum (2021) and Van Cleef & Arpels 22 Vendôme EDP (2022) demonstrating his passion and dedication to his craft.

SO WHAT DOES KENZO HOMME EDT INTENSE SMELL LIKE?

Welcome to the seaside, thanks to judicious use of Calypsone. The Givaudan captive molecule is known for its floral-salty properties and it’s beautifully on display here. The pink pepper note adds rosy spiciness to the mix.

I checked with the perfumer if Calone is also in this EDT, and he confirmed it. But unlike the heavy-handedness of many 1990s aquatics, this fresh sea-breezy synthetic is used in a subtle way. That understatement is also shown in the warm and powdery treatment of the fig tree accord.

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense

What stands out most in Kenzo Homme EDT Intense and the part I keep on coming back to is its sensual heat and lingering saltiness on the skin. This is achieved through a combination of earthy vetiver and another Givaudan captive molecule, Akigalawood (patchouli oil is fractionated to produce a woody, spicy, sometimes oud-y effect). I don’t understand the process completely either. What matters is that Quentin Bisch makes the most of this example of biotechnology.

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense - Akigalawood

BIOTECHNOLOGY: Quentin Bisch used the Givaudan captive molecule Akigalawood to create Kenzo Homme EDT Intense. IMAGE: Givaudan.

The sandalwood note – deliciously creamy, with a hint of coconut – concludes the scent with finesse.

This is not your usual aquatic. It’s thoroughly modern and while minimalist, there’s plenty to hold the attention from start to finish.  Quentin Bisch has every reason to be proud of this creation.

Looking for a contemporary aquatic without the 1990s clichés? Want to feel like you’re on holiday somewhere special? Here you go…

Best L’Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances From The Original Niche Pioneer

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Caligna EDP

Before niche was even a thing, there was L’Artisan Parfumeur. Fact. With the hype around big-name niche brands, it’s easy to forget the company led the way and has a remarkable selection of classics and more recent releases for those with more discerning tastes. So there was no shortage of options for this best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances post.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mure et Musc EDT

After founding the French beauty business Sisley in 1972, Jean-François Laporte went on to create the Paris-based house in 1976. From its first release in 1978, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc, its reputation for innovation and quality was sown.

NEW BUSINESS MODEL: Jean-François Laporte founded the Paris-based house in 1976. IMAGE: Fragrantica.

While its founder is no longer with us and the brand now falls under the umbrella of the Spanish company Puig, it offers excellent value in a market increasingly driven by a race to the top (price).

The name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

What are your best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances?

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÛRE ET MUSC EDT* (JEAN-FRANÇOIS LAPORTE)

A brand’s debut should set the tone for future releases, and that’s exactly what this 1978 release did in original style. It’s a bona fide musk classic.

It opens with the bright citrus tones of lemon. The herbal aromatics of basil is also discernible. The tart fruitiness of blackberry – then a novelty, but now a staple in perfumery – is enhanced by clean white musks in the drydown, while oakmoss gives it a dash of earthiness.

The 1993 version created by Karine Dubreuil-Sereni, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc Extrême EDP, with its blackcurrant and blackberry emphasis, is also worth exploring.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mure et Musc EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PREMIER FIGUIER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

The superb Diptyque Philosykos (1996) is seen by many people as the gold standard of fig fragrances. But credit where it’s due: the first fig fragrance, L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier. Both were created by the same top perfumer, Olivia Giacobetti.

Launched in 1994, this EDT brilliantly captures its inspiration of lying under the shade of a fig tree in sunny Provence. It begins in fresh, green style with a note of fig leaf that’s followed by ripe honeyed fig. A delicious milky, woody ambience is created through a combo of almond milk, sandalwood and coconut notes.

What a classic, both in terms of its influence and timeless beauty. The 2004 follow-up, L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier Extrême EDP, also created by Olivia Giacobetti, presents a more intense, sunnier variation on the original theme.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÉCHANT LOUP EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

As their “perfumer in residence” for 10 years, Bertrand Duchaufour created beauties such as Timbuktu EDT (probably one of my all-time favourites), Nuit de Tubéreuse EDP and Dzongkha EDT for the brand.

Méchant Loup (French for “Bad Wolf”) can be enjoyed as a conceptual fragrance of sorts – Little Red Riding Hood’s journey through the woods. The sweeter aspects – honey, praline and myrrh – are given a suitable twist with dark accents of chestnut, liquorice and woods.

At first this 1997 release didn’t tempt me that much, but now I can’t get enough of it. It’s a gourmand with bite.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mechant Loup EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PASSAGE D’ENFER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

L’Artisan Parfumeur’s well-earned reputation is based on top-quality classics such as Passage d’Enfer, which was released in 1999. A tribute to the company’s original office and a play on words (“hell’s passage”), it makes the most of the religious connotations of the genre with pronounced notes of cedar and incense evoking a peaceful ambience.

Incense fragrances can sometimes be austere. This one avoids that in the drydown. White lily and an amber accord add sweetness to the mix, while white musk softens the edges.

For an EDT, this top-notch Olivia Giacobetti creation is surprisingly powerful stuff and lingers on the skin and clothing many hours after application.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mechant Loup EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR LA CHASSE AUX PAPILLONS EDT* (ANNE FLIPO)

While perfume is not going to solve the world’s problems, it is a reminder of the beauty to be found in it. I’m all for a floral lift and the wonderfully named La Chasse aux Papillons does just that in such a charming way (it’s inspired by childhood memories of chasing butterflies).

Launched in 1999, this EDT is a straight-up bouquet of white flowers that includes jasmine, orange blossom and especially tuberose. The latter is light and bright, not intoxicating and animalic.

Softly sweet, this enchanting scent is guaranteed to put a smile on your face whenever you wear it.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse aux Papillons EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TEA FOR TWO EDT (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

I can’t recommend this 2000 release enough. Twenty-two years after its launch, its beauty commands absolute respect.

From the first spray, there’s the rich woody smokiness of black lapsang souchong (a traditional Chinese tea). Cinnamon, anise and ginger soften the initial intensity with mellow spice, while a note of gingerbread adds a gourmand aspect. There’s more deliciousness in the drydown, courtesy of notes of powdery honey and dark vanilla.

Warm and welcoming, it’s the equivalent of an olfactory embrace. Just what we need in these turbulent times.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR L’EAU D’AMBRE EXTRÊME EDP* (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)

Why is perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena held in such high regard? This 2001 release will tell you all you need to know. The 1993 original created by Karine Dubreuil-Sereni, L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Eau d’Ambre EDT, is a standard-setter in the amber category.

Billed as a more complex and potent version of the original, Ellena’s rendition is inspired by 1930s oriental opulence, so it has a vintage-y feel. This is a good thing in my books.

The vanilla-centric amber accord, musky powdery perfection, is complemented by warm spicy notes (nutmeg stands out in the mix) and Turkish rose. Earthy patchouli adds to the depth.

Old-school glamour at its very best.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur L'Eau d'Ambre Extreme EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TIMBUKTU EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Taking its inspiration from “wusulan”, a tradition whereby Malian women perfume their body and hair, L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu is a perfume like no other. Launched in 2004, this Bertrand Duchaufour creation has lost none of its power to captivate.

Right from the opening notes of green mango, pink pepper and cardamom, you’ll realise you’re onto something special with this scent. Incense makes its way throughout the heart, which also features a textbook-perfect papyrus note, with its smokiness.

The woodiness and earthiness keep on coming with vetiver and patchouli in the drydown. They’re slightly sweetened with a dose of myrrh. Pure magnificence!

Want more delicious olfactory travels? Then hunt down the sadly discontinued L’Artisan Parfumeur Traversée du Bosphore EDP. Inspired by Duchaufour’s travels to Istanbul, this 2010 release features accents of fruit, leather, iris and Turkish delight.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu EDT

UNIQUE: Timbuktu is a personal favourite in this best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances selection.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR FOU D’ABSINTHE EDP* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

A lot of boozy scents take the sledgehammer approach and let you know in no uncertain terms that you’re under the influence, so to speak. This 2006 release is not one of those fragrances.

Wormwood, the chief ingredient of absinthe, opens this EDP with its bitter herbaceousness. The aromatic effect is carried through to the heart with the addition of spicy notes such as earthy nutmeg and powdery star anise. It settles on a woody base of pine tree needles and fir balsam notes, with the smoke of incense adding the finishing touch.

Instead of serving an obvious shot of absinthe, it cleverly creates a mood that’s full of intrigue and nuances.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Fou d'Absinthe EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR AL OUDH EDP* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

This 2009 release takes its cue from the perfumer’s travels to the Middle East, which partly explains the name of the fragrance.

It opens in powerfully spicy mode – notes of caraway seed and cardamom are prominent in the blend. With the sweet fruit of dates in the air, there’s no doubt you’re in for an oriental treat. I wouldn’t blame you for missing the floral notes, including rose, in the heady mix of resinous oud, smoky incense and sweet ’n spicy myrrh. It gets more complex and dirtier in the drydown with animalic notes of civetone and leather.

It’s exotic stuff, in the best sense of the word, and won’t be to everyone’s liking. If I’m being really fussy, I might have called it L’Artisan Parfumeur Al Spicy Oudh, but that doesn’t take away from its beauty.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR CALIGNA EDP* (DORA BAGHRICHE)

L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier is an undoubted fig fragrance classic and while this 2013 take on the fruit might not be as immediately appealing, it’s still worth sniffing out for its intriguing vibe.

An ode to Grasse (Caligna means “to flirt” in Provencal dialect, according to the brand website), it opens with the gentle sweetness of fig. A large dose of clary sage infuses the scent with fresh herbal muskiness. A softly green interpretation of jasmine leads the way to the drydown featuring the woody aromatics of pine.

It’s not the usual scent but typically L’Artisan Parfumeur in its inspiration and execution.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Caligna EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR NOIR EXQUIS EDP* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Trust Bertrand Duchaufour to deliver a gourmand with a difference and without any of the obvious sugar overload in this 2015 release.

Taking its inspiration from a rendezvous in a French patisserie, it opens with the aroma of sweet and spicy glazed chestnuts gently infused with orange blossom. Maple syrup brings toasted caramel nuances to the mix, while strong coffee wafts throughout.

Mellowing with vanilla and tonka bean as it dries down, it’s as darkly delicious as it sounds.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Noir Exquis EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MIRABILIS 60 EDP* (DAPHNE BUGEY)

The brand’s La Botanique Collection, with its appropriately shaped bottles, doesn’t get the recognition it deserves. So this 2016 release is my not-so-subtle way of drawing your attention to it.

On paper it’s a seemingly straightforward amber composition, but it casts a mysteriously sensual spell when wearing it. That’s largely due to the olibanum, with its complex facets (from fruity and spicy to resinous). It’s blended with musk, Ambroxan and woody notes to irresistible effect.

Also look out for the range’s Arcana Rosa 9 EDP (thorny rose alert!) and Obscuratio 25 EDP (ylang-ylang meets patchouli), both created by the same perfumer.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur 60 Mirabilis EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR AU BORD DE L’EAU EAU DE COLOGNE* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

L’Artisan Parfumeur added eaux de cologne to their repertoire in 2017 with impressive results. Inspired by Claude Monet’s masterpiece Impressionist work, Au Bord de L’Eau takes me away to rural France, albeit fleetingly. It’s an eau de cologne, after all.

So it’s about clean and calming delicacy, from the fresh citrus opening notes of bergamot and lemon intermingled with strokes of herbal rosemary, powdery violet and aromatic cedarwood.

I also recommend Sur l’Herbe Eau de Cologne, inspired by Edouard Manet’s Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe, if you’re looking for a hit of sunny neroli freshness.

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR HISTOIRE D’ORANGERS EDP* (MARIE SALAMAGNE)

Perfumer Marie Salamagne had the pleasure of visiting the Souss Valley in Morocco, one of the country’s main agricultural regions, and this 2017 release captures that memory with delightful detail.

It opens with the slightly bitter citrus hues of neroli, with the greenery of tea in support. And then onto the star of the scent show: orange blossom, softly sweet and its natural warmth enhanced by white musk and Ambroxan. A touch of nutty tonka bean in the drydown evokes the fruit of the argan tree, which is endemic to Morocco.

Striking a deft balance between freshness and warmth, softness and sensuality, it’s the olfactory equivalent of taking a walk through an orchard on a sunny day.

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MANDARINA CORSICA EDP (QUENTIN BISCH)

A 2018 gourmand that’s well worth checking out. And this time, we’re in Corsica and in the accomplished hands of perfumer Quentin Bisch. Who could say no?

Inspired by a caramelised mandarin he tasted on the French island as a child, he captures the sensation of this candy by presenting different aspects of the citrus fruit: juicy, zesty and sunny but with more longevity than expected, and given the gourmand factor with notes of caramel and tonka bean.

A note of immortelle, with its sweet honey tones, adds to the edibility of it all, while soft floral notes of jasmine and orange blossom complete the idyllic picture.

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR CHAMP DE FLEURS EAU DE COLOGNE* (ANNE FLIPO)

Did you say light and bright? Then this 2018 addition to the company’s eau de cologne range is calling your name.

It opens with fresh notes of pear and grapefruit, beautifully balanced between soft fruity sweetness and citric bitterness. There’s more freshness from floral notes of jasmine and lily-of-the-valley and white cedar, while musk brings clean powderiness to the drydown,

With its spring inspiration, it’s perfect for those days when only subtle and discreet sophistication will do.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Champ de Fleurs EDC

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MONT DE NARCISSE EDP (ANNE FLIPO)

This 2019 release goes deep and dark, although you wouldn’t expect it from the subdued opening featuring the rosiness of pink pepper, with hints of crisp bergamot and spicy cardamom in the background.

It takes things up a notch with the appearance of a note of narcissus. Reserved at first and then increasingly animalic. Notes of osmanthus and plum bring a fruity aspect.

But what really makes this EDP stand out is the dense drydown with its smoky and sensual leatheriness.

Highly recommended if you’re looking for something dark and mysterious.

L'Artisan Parfumeur Mont de Narcisse EDP

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR BANA BANANA EDP* (CÉLINE ELLENA)

If you’d asked me a month ago if I’d get a thrill from smelling like ripe bananas, I’d have said something like, “Not particularly.” But that was before I’d tried L’Artisan Parfumeur Bana Banana EDP. Created by Céline Ellena (daughter of the legendary Jean-Claude Ellena and an accomplished perfumer in her own right), this 2019 release is fabulously flamboyant.

The opening is deceptively reserved, with spicy notes of pepper and nutmeg. And then a rich and ripe banana effect through the skilful use of synthetics and naturals (including jasmine at its most fruity). The skin and fruit vibe continues through to the amber accord drydown featuring tonka bean and musk at the fore.

Un vrai delice!

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Bana Banana EDP

*All these best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics