Fragrance Etiquette: The New Rules (Plus Some Things That Never Change)

Fragrance Etiquette

There’s no doubt that we are living in a time of rapid change, economically, socially and politically. Many of the old rules simply don’t apply anymore and the same applies to wearing fragrance, too. There used to be a very simple list of do’s and don’ts for fragrance etiquette. For example, at its most basic, fresh and citrusy fragrances for summer, warm and spicy fragrances for winter. But do rules like this still apply?

Increasingly, how to wear fragrance is all about modern etiquette. It can be a potential minefield of confusion, misunderstanding and embarrassment.

Fragrance Etiquette

COOL COLOGNE: Why not reach for a citrus scent in winter.

To help you navigate through these realities of fragrance etiquette, here are some of the new rules of fragrance. I’ve also included a brief reminder of those that will never change.

THOU SHALT WEAR WHAT YOU LIKE, BUT BE OCCASION APPROPRIATE

Firstly, and most importantly, things are a lot more flexible than they used to be, which might irk those who prefer their lives to be more black and white.

Generally, this means that we are now all encouraged to wear whatever fragrance we like. Modern fragrance etiquette is not about following the dictates of fashion and marketing anymore; it’s about personal style and preferences. So if you have a thing for the big and bold fragrances of the 80s, go for it.

Fragrance Etiquette

BIG AND BOLD: If the 80s rules for you, make the most of your personal preferences, but…

Of course, rules always come with qualifiers and caveats (which may even seem contradictory). So while it’s good to indulge in what works for you, it’s also about being occasion appropriate.

That rich and boozy scent might smell like a million dollars on you, but it’s not going to win you any points at a corporate-job interview, for example. This leads us to the following occasion-appropriate rule of fragrance etiquette.

Fragrance Etiquette

UNDER THE INFLUENCE: Perhaps it’s not the best idea to wear a boozy scent, such as John Varvatos Dark Rebel, to a job interview.

THOU SHALT KEEP IT TO YOURSELF IN AN OPEN-PLAN OFFICE

The open-plan office is not going away any time soon. It has brought with it a multitude of sensitivities, regarding what to eat, how loud to talk, etc.

Your choice of fragrance for the office can become highly contested terrain. If not handled correctly, it could result in one of those managerial emails requesting wearers of “strange” and “exotic” scents to be more sensitive to the olfactory needs of their colleagues.

In short, while others might admire your impeccable “scents of style” at a distance, they don’t necessarily won’t to be exposed to it, in close proximity in an open-plan environment.

“Without cramping your personal style, as a guideline, it’s best to tone down your choice of fragrance during office hours.”

So without cramping your personal style, as a guideline, it’s best to tone down your choice of fragrance during office hours. This doesn’t mean nondescript and boring, but do think twice about so-called “beast mode” fragrances if you don’t want to get up the noses of your co-workers.

Fragrance Etiquette

OPEN-PLAN FRIENDLY? Keep super-distinctive and -powerful fragrances like Orto Parisi Terroni EDP for after-hours.

THOU SHALT NOT STICK RELIGIOUSLY TO SEASONS

This used to be one of the clear-cut rules of fragrance etiquette but, in the new flexi era, is showing signs of becoming more relaxed. If you enjoy wearing citrusy scents in winter, there’s nothing to stop you from doing so. Equally, if you want to wear an oud scent in summer, there’s no reason why you can’t.

As Helen Fitzgerald writes on MelMagazine.com: “For the most part, a summer scent is a marketing construct, much like the idea of a gendered scent. One can wear any type of scent in any season and have it ‘work,’ depending on the desired effect.

“Perfume is about fantasy, so finding a scent you want to wear in summer is about figuring out what your fantasy of summer is.”

Fragrance Etiquette

FLEXI FRAGRANCE: Wearing an oud fragrance in summer is perfectly acceptable.

All of this is done with the knowledge, of course, that certain fragrances will react more to increased levels of heat, humidity and sweatiness.

THOU SHALT NOT BE A SELF-LIMITING FRAGRANCE SNOB

The biggest growth in the fragrance industry in the last 10 years has been in the niche sector. Unfortunately, it has also been accompanied by the rise of fragrance snobbery, where anything non-niche is considered to be of inferior quality.

While most of the innovation in fragrance is happening in niche, the truth is that there also countless over-priced, average-smelling scents in that category.

“It’s far more productive, and ultimately rewarding, to keep an open mind on the kinds of fragrances you’re keen to wear.”

Fragrance Etiquette

STAR SCENT: There are some surprisingly good celeb fragrances.

It’s far more productive, and ultimately rewarding, to keep an open mind on the kinds of fragrances you’re keen to wear. There’s a lot of mediocrity to be found in every category, from designer and celebrity to budget, but there are also treasures to be found in each. It would be a pity to limit your fragrance options by being an unbearable snob.

THOU SHALT CROSS THE GENDER DIVIDE

While we’re on the subject of improving your options, it’s an increasingly acceptable part of fragrance etiquette for men to make a detour via the female counters and shelves to buy female fragrances for themselves. Women have been buying men’s fragrances for themselves for many years and now adventurous men have the opportunity to make up for what they have been missing out on.

Fragrance Etiquette

GENDER GAP: Increase your options by exploring female fragrances.

Linked to this is the rise of unisex/shared/gender-neutral fragrances, one of the biggest trends in recent years. Increasingly, men no longer want to be confined by the labels of “for him” and “for her” fragrances and are looking for perfumes that appeal to both genders.

BARGAIN HUNTING IS COOL

Whichever way you look at it, fragrance is an expensive business, especially on the niche side, so being a savvy consumer is more important than ever.

There’s much hype and a hefty price tag when a big new designer fragrance is launched. If you are willing to wait six months, say, chances are the “hottest new launch of 2019” will also become “the best bargain of 2019” when discounts become more common.

Niche too expensive for you? There are numerous reputable Facebook swap and purchase groups where niche’s usually higher prices are eminently more negotiable.

Fragrance Etiquette

EXPENSIVE BUSINESS: It’s very possible to find niche fragrance bargains on reputable Facebook groups.

And let’s not forget the bargain shelves. They might not be adorned with slick branding materials, but they are a great hunting ground for some surprisingly good celeb scents and long-forgotten classic cheapies.

“Bargain shelves are a great hunting ground for some surprisingly good celeb scents and long-forgotten classic cheapies.”

SOME OF THE OLD RULES STILL APPLY

Among all the change, it’s reassuring to know that some things remain the same when it comes to fragrance etiquette.

LESS IS STILL MORE

It’s very tempting to over-apply fragrance. After all, it is your favourite and everyone should be allowed to smell how good it is on you. But that all depends on your view of the effect of fragrance on others. To entice and intrigue? Or overpower and dominate? Besides, this would be infringing on the personal space of others.

TRY IT BEFORE YOU BUY IT, ON YOUR SKIN

For all sorts of reasons. Fragrance is a luxury purchase, so you don’t want to waste your hard-earned cash on something that doesn’t suit you. Just because it smells great on a buddy, doesn’t mean it’s going to work on you. You get the picture…

DS & Durga: An Interview With Perfumer David Seth Moltz

DS & Durga Cowboy Grass EDP

When husband and wife, David Seth Moltz (a musician) and Kavi Moltz (an architect) launched DS & Durga in 2007, they did so without a plan in mind. Twelve years later, the perfumer and creative director’s NYC-based company is a well-respected (I would say “very cool”) niche fragrance brand that produces perfume, candle, body and car products.

DS & Durga - David Seth Moltz

SELF-TAUGHT: David Seth Moltz didn’t go to perfumery school, but taught himself the tools of the trade.

It’s easy to be a cool brand, but a cool brand with longevity is something else altogether. DS & Durga have achieved this through distinctive (often unusual), high-quality fragrances that take their inspiration from music, art, nature and design.

I got hold of self-taught perfumer David Seth Moltz via Instagram and these are his replies to my questions.

DS & Durga Italian Citrus EDP

What makes DS & Durga stand out in an increasingly saturated niche market?

We are perfumer- and designer-owned. Our scents are a true reflection of our ideas and are not filtered through another perfumer.

You’ve been labelled a “hipster” fragrance brand. What are your thoughts on that?

Not sure what that really means. Doesn’t sound too positive, though.

DS & Durga Radio Bombay EDP

What was your goal when you originally launched DS & Durga in 2007? Has that changed at all?

At the beginning, we were just flying by the seat of our pants. We were surprised by the response and excited to make something with our own hands. We still have the same desire to create, but with more tools. Ultimately, it’s about spreading joy to as many people as possible.

“We still have the same desire to create, but with more tools.”

You and your wife, Kavi, founded DS & Durga. Why do you have such a strong working relationship?

We respect each other’s spheres of expertise.

DS & Durga - Kavi Moltz and David Seth Moltz

AREAS OF EXPERTISE: Kavi Moltz (creative director) and David Seth Moltz (perfumer) are the husband and wife team behind DS & Durga.

You didn’t study perfumery. Has that been an advantage for you?

I think so. I have my own systems of how aromatic materials work.

Where does your creativity come from?

God.

You’ve recently opened your new NYC store. Why should we visit it?

It has everything we make in one place the way we want you to experience it. You can talk to the founders or our small team and get deep inside what we do and how we do it. Nolita is also a great neighborhood to visit.

DS & Durga store

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT: The interior of the new DS & Durga store in Nolita, NYC.

One of my favourite DS & Durga fragrances is Debaser. I know the Pixies reference, but I wasn’t expecting all of that delicious fig and coconut for such a rock n roll-referenced fragrance…

Yep, it’s a reference to my youthful understanding of that provocative music on hot summer nights.

On the music theme, you collaborated with Duran Duran last year to celebrate their 40th year in the music biz. What do you remember most from that collaboration?

Working closely with Simon [le Bon, the band’s lead singer] on the fragrances.

DS & Durga El Cosmico EDP

Tell us about your latest fragrance, DS & Durga EDP?

The DS scent is part of our gold label line where we use ridiculously expensive materials without worrying about the retail cost. It is a modern take on an Indian attar with frangipani, gardenia, lotus, sandalwood and vetyver.

“The DS scent is part of our gold label line where we use ridiculously expensive materials without worrying about the cost.”

Where do you think niche is heading?

Perfume as an art form will only increase. There will always be a market for perfume focused on the artistry of the juice first.

  • DS & Durga fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics. Tel: 011 883 1350. 

 

Guerlain Shalimar EDP – Fragrance Of The Month

Guerlain Shalimar

Guerlain Shalimar EDP
Launched

Guerlain Shalimar EDP was launched in 1925.

Perfumer

Jacques Guerlain (Guerlain Mitsouko, Guerlain L’Heure Bleue, Guerlain Vol de Nuit, Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur).

Guerlain Shalimar - Jacques Guerlain

PERFUME GENIUS: Jacques Guerlain in the laboratory. Image: Wikipedia.com.

Notes (according to fragrantica.com)

Citrus notes, lemon, bergamot, jasmine, may rose, opoponax. tonka bean, vanilla, iris, Peru balsam, grey amber.

About the brand

Guerlain is one of the iconic houses of French perfumery and is revered for its numerous classics. These include: Jicky (1889), L’Heure Bleue (1912), Mitsouko (1919), Habit Rouge (1965), Samsara (1989) and Vetiver (2000). Perfumer Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain founded the company in 1828 in Paris. The company was owned by successive generations of the Guerlain family until French luxury giant LVMH bought it in 1994. Thierry Wasser has been Guerlain’s in-house perfumer since 2008.

Guerlain Shalimar - Thierry Wasser

KEEPING IT IN HOUSE: Thierry Wasser is Guerlain’s current perfumer. Image: Guerlain.com.

Impressions

How to review a perfume that’s considered one of the greats of the 20th century? With much trepidation, it seems. I was very hesitant to review it. After all, what could I add to the many expert reviews that has not been said already? Needless to say, this fragrance is too important not to have an opinion about it…

Guerlain Shalimar EDP

Inspired by the love between Indian Emperor Shah Jahan and Princess Mumtaz Mahal, Shalimar (Sanskrit for “temple of love”), is widely considered to be the first oriental fragrance, according to the brand’s website

“Throughout, it’s a warm and intimate scent, which is most prevalent in the drydown.”

When I apply this fragrance I always first get a thoroughly seductive swirl of citrus notes. It’s a brief hint of freshness, for sure, but not the usual sharpness of citrus notes. It’s more powdery than anything else. That could be due to the simultaneous progression of Shalimar in a floral direction, thanks to the notes of iris, jasmine and rose. Throughout, it’s a warm and intimate scent, which is most prevalent in the drydown. Here, notes of vanilla, tonka bean, sandalwood and opoponax are introduced, with incense playing a major role. This smoky quality is one of the defining characterisics of Shalimar, but it’s a delicate treatment to entice the wearer.

Guerlain Shalimar

I could use any number of adjectives to describe Guerlain Shalimar – sensual, enveloping, intoxicating, etc. None of which would do justice to it. The one that seems the best to me is “romantic”, in the best sense of the word.

Verdict

A true and complex classic that’s a Fragrance Of The Century, rather than a Fragrance Of The Month. Little wonder it has spawned numerous flankers over the last decade, the most recent being Shalimar Soufflé de Parfum 2018.

Guerlain Shalimar EDP

To buy in South Africa

From R1 855 (50ml) to R2 450 (90ml), Edgars Sandton, Edgars V&A and Hero Extravagance (Brooklyn Mall).

For more info

https://www.guerlain.com/int/en-int/fragrance/womens-fragrances/shalimar/shalimar-eau-de-parfum-spray

Sources

Fragrantica.com, Wikipedia.com, Guerlain.com

Guerlain Shalimar EDP