5 Fragrance News Snippets: D.S. & Durga For Duran Duran, Jo Malone Huntsman Collection, Jeremy Fragrance Picks Alberto Morillas, Creed Aventus Cologne, Sophie Brocart The New MD Of Jean Patou

Fragrance News Snippets - Jo Malone Huntsman Collection

Image: www.jomalone.co.uk

I’ve been wanting to launch a new series for a long time on my blog. Something that’s useful, but not too serious. Something that gives a quick overview of interesting things happening in the world of fragrance, without claiming to be a definitive guide. So here it is: The debut of the monthly Fragrance News Snippets on Fragroom.

Please let me know what you think of it. If you come across anything news-worthy, please forward to me (rpgoller@gmail.com) for consideration in future editions of Fragrance News Snippets .

Fragrance News Snippets - D.S. & Durga For Duran Duran Hungry Like The Wolf


How do you celebrate 40 years in the music biz? If you’re English pop band Duran Duran, you collaborate with the uber-cool D.S. & Durga, the New York-based niche perfume company. The result is a collection of four fragrances, D.S. & Durga for Duran Duran, inspired by songs released by the foursome over the decades. The perfume oils Hungry Like The Wolf, Come Undone, Skin Divers and You Kill Me With Silence are available exclusively from Liberty, London, in rollerball format for £75 each. Original source for more info: read here. 

Fragrance News Snippets - D.S. & Durga for Duran Duran

FINDING THEIR NICHE: The members of Duran Duran (John Taylor, Roger Taylor, Simon Le Bon and Nick Rhodes) with Kavi and David Moltz of D.S. & Durga.


Talking of collaborations… there’s been no shortage of standout Jo Malone fragrances for men over the years. But in a very smart move, the British fragrance brand has partnered with renowned tailors Huntsman Savile Row to produce a most gentlemanly collection. The four colognes feature enticing names (and combos) such as Amber & Patchouli, Assam & Grapefruit, Birch & Black Pepper and Whisky & Cedarwood. Original source for more info: read here.

Fragrance News Snippets - Jo Malone Huntsman Collection

Image: www.jomalone.co.uk


Fragrance reviewer Jeremy Fragrance has become something of a celebrity himself, with almost 600 000 followers across his various channels. So it was just a matter of time before the YouTube star launched his own fragrance range. The 29-year-old has chosen living legend Alberto Morillas (cK One, Cartier Panthere, Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio, Mugler Cologne, Yves Saint Laurent M7) to create his fragrances. This must mean Jeremy Fragrance wants his perfumes to have: a) commercial appeal; b) critical success; and c) longevity. Original source for more info: read here.

Fragrance News Snippets: Alberto Morillas and Jeremy Fragrance.

Image: Jeremy Fragrance Facebook


Launched in 2010 by the French luxury fragrance company, Aventus EDP has developed a large cult following that borders on the religious. News that Creed plans to launch a cologne version of their best-seller has been met with much online excitement/exasperation. The prototype was on display earlier this month at the TFWA World Exhibition & Conference in Cannes, France. No official launch date has been confirmed yet. Original source for more info: read here.

Fragrance News Snippets - Creed Aventus Cologne

Image: Fragrantica


Following LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s recent acquisition of Jean Patou, Sophie Brocard has been announced as the new MD of the revered French fashion and perfume company. While Jean Patou has an impressive catalogue of fragrance classics, it hasn’t launched anything since 2016. Previously the CEO of luxury shoe brand Nicholas Kirkwood, Brocard will be responsible for re-establishing Jean Patou as a global luxury brand. No doubt, Jean Patou devotees will be watching her closely. Original source for more info: read here. 


Fragrance News Snippets - Jean Patou Joy EDP

Image: www.amazon.com

Is there anything in particular you’d you’d like to read in Fragroom’s Fragrance News Snippets? Please let me know.

Interview With Quentin Bisch: “Perfumery Is An Absolute Part Of Myself”

Quentin Bisch


2018 could very well be the year of Quentin Bisch. The 35-year-old perfumer has signed a number of high-profile fragrances this year. These include: Azzaro Wanted by Night EDP (pictured below), Boucheron Quatre en Rose EDP, Bottega Veneta Parco Palladiano XV: Salvia Blu EDP, Chloé Nomade EDP, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP, Parfums de Marly Delina EDP, Paco Rabanne Pure XS for Her EDP and Zadig & Voltaire Girls Can Do Anything EDP.

Quentin Bisch - Azzaro Wanted By Night EDP

Even before this prolific year, Quentin Bisch was producing stand-out fragrances such as Mugler A*Men Ultra Zest EDT (2015) and Etat Libre d’Orange La Fin du Monde EDP (2013).

The first Quentin Bisch fragrance I smelled was Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum in 2016. At the time I didn’t know he had created this supremely sexy scent with its creamy take on notes of cardamom, lavender, leather and cinnamon.

Quentin Bisch - Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum

Not bad for someone whose dream to become a perfumer was ridiculed by a teacher because he wasn’t any good at high-school chemistry. Now, Quentin Bisch is one of Givaudan’s hot talents.

I contacted Quentin Bisch via Instagram and he agreed to answer some questions about his fragrance style, niche vs designer and his latest creation for L’Artisan Parfumeur.

Quentin Bisch


What fragrance are you wearing today?

A trial for a huge project I’ve been working on for the past three years. It is the final round and there are two candidates left. In a few weeks someone will be selected for it. When I wear a fragrance, which is quite rare lately, it is Hermès Kelly Calèche EDT.


Is perfumery a profession or a calling for you?

Both. But I definitely admit that working with such a passion may change the rules of typical “professions”: you barely can stop, because you always create perfumes in your mind, while watching a movie or sleeping at night. It is an absolute part of myself and takes up the main part of my life.

Quentin Bisch - Zadig & Voltaire Girls Can Do Anything EDP

You made your fragrance debut in 2013. Has your style evolved since then?

Difficult to say… For my personal research, yes, as I keep discovering myself every day. I feel that with increasing confidence, I tend to go straight to the point. My formulas are bolder and shorter.

But the main part of the job is connected to the brands. Hence my “style”, as you call it, is clearly connected to them and adapts to answer each one. I totally get to dive into the brand’s DNA and become like their internal perfumer. I am not the same perfumer when I work for Chloé or for Paco Rabanne.

Quentin Bisch - Paco Rabanne Pure XS for Her EDP


You are very active on Instagram. How does it benefit you as a perfumer?

Am I (laughs)? Must admit it is quite new to me. Two months ago I was not part of any social network. And you are right, now I dedicate more time to it. As a perfumer the benefit is a communication matter: you are closer to a lot of people, showing your work as you choose to, for instance, the inspiration behind the fragrances. It gives another access to the perfumes, in the way of its creator, which completes and add to the brand’s communication.

“Two months ago I was not part of any social network. It gives another access to the perfumes, in the way of its creator.”

How do you like to work? For example, Is a very specific brief important to you?

Of course, some briefs are more important, because they speak to you in a particular way. I remember when the Chloé Nomade brief arrived, I was crazy. I wanted to be the one who would win it. It became very emotional, because I adore this brand. Sometimes it’s niche briefs that keep you up at night with ideas. I take most of it pretty intensely. I am like that. It is quite tiring, but life is short, so I play it hard.

Quentin Bisch - Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum

2018 has been a very busy year for you, with a number of your creations on the market. Do you work on one project at a time or do you juggle a few?

I work on many projects at the same time. But the rhythm and level of finalisation varies from one to another. So it is rarely every project at the same time. Yes, “juggling” is a good word.

You’ve created niche and designer fragrances. Is there any difference for you in the creative process?

Not that much. I work with as many creative and bold accords for niche as I do for designer fragrances. The main difference is the target. When you want to appeal to a larger audience, you need to include it in the deal. That’s why designer fragrances often are so faceted: a bit of fruit to be joyful, flower notes for fluidity, musks for comfort, and gourmand for addiction and youth… In that situation, we are far away from a niche perfume featuring only amber or spices. You don’t aim for the same result.

Quentin Bisch - Ex Nihilo Fleur Narcotique

Tell us about your new fragrance for L’Artisan Parfumeur, Mandarina Corsica. I haven’t tried it yet, but it sounds delicious.

For the first time I could design an accord I had in mind for years: a caramelised mandarin I tasted in Corsica a long time ago. I remember biting into the little candied fruit and feeling a symphony of sensations. Firstly, you feel the caramel, cold and hard, its bitterness almost burnt brown sugar. As you break it your teeth get into the peel of the mandarin: zests! Then the fruit explodes and it is all about juicy, acidulous, pulpy delight.

“For the first time I could design an accord I had in mind for years: a caramelised mandarin I tasted in Corsica a long time ago.”

Givaudan’s new mandarins (coeur and intégrale) allow one to feel a lasting freshness and juiciness, as well as the texture of the fruit. Normally citruses are top notes, meaning they burst at the head note of a perfume, but barely last. Caramel notes – more oriental – do last.

Quentin Bisch - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP

I needed a lasting citrus, bold and textured, to give the illusion that you experience this delight with all its facets evolving altogether, and that you do not end with a caramel topped by some blinking citruses. It became possible to render all the feelings and sensations of my emotional childhood memory!


The Comfort of Smells

Comforting Smells - Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir EDP

I’ve been thinking a lot about comforting smells recently. Let’s just say it’s been a relentless year on the work and health fronts. We all know smells affect our moods – for better or worse. Science tells us how they can influence our emotions and even our work and consumption behaviour. For fascinating insights on the subject and associative learning, I recommend reading this article by Rachel S Herz, assistant professor of psychology at Brown University, here.

The selection of comforting smells below have been particularly effective for me. What are your favourite comforting smells?

Comforting Smells - Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir EDP

Francis Kurkdjian’s oriental masterpiece is adored by many for its sensuality. I couldn’t agree more. For me, it’s a mellow sensuality that always conjures up chic cosiness whenever I wear it. Have amber and vanilla (with cistus labdanum, benzoin and tonka bean  in support) ever smelled this good? R2 705 for 50ml, https://www.skins.co.za.

Comforting Smells - Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir EDP

Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow

Whenever these shrubs bloom towards the end of August in Johannesburg, I am taken back to my less complicated childhood. We had one of these in our garden. According to Gardening Know How, it get its name from its flowers’ transformation from purple (yesterday), then pastel lavender (today), on to white (tomorrow). The berries and seeds are poisonous, which belies the flowers’ heady sweetness. Still, I am seriously thinking of having one of these bushes on our developing garden balcony.

Comforting Smells - Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow

Zenology Ambiance Spray Titio / Firewood

Although some people might find it more appropriate for winter, I find this room spray from the Dutch company Zenology so snuggle-able. Which makes its blend of smoked Darjeeling tea accord, woods and spices ideal year round for me. Gourmand-phobics, fear not. There’s nothing sweet nor heavy about it. R260 for 50ml, https://www.skins.co.za.

Comforting Smells - Zenology Ambiance Spray Titio / Firewood

Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil

Sometimes I just want a comforting floral smell that’s close to my skin – just for me and those allowed into my personal space. Even better if it’s in the form of a product that has healthy skin benefits. Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil is made from moisturising mango butter and regenerating Tamanu oil. It’s gently fragranced with notes that include bergamot, honey, ylang-ylang, rose, vanilla and musk. R380 for 5g, https://www.skins.co.za.

Comforting Smells - Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil

Dermalogica Sound Sleep Cocoon

I’ve been wanting to try this gel-cream product for some time, partly due to its relaxing name. As the skin regenerates best while we get a good night’s sleep, it features a mix of highly active ingredients renowned for their rejuvenating properties. These include Persian silk tree bark, Wu-Zhu-Yu fruit, Kakadu plum and tamarind seed extracts. All of these work together overnight to deliver impressive results in the morning. I love that it includes French lavender, sandalwood and patchouli aromatherapy essential oils to enhance sleep. R1 295 for 50ml.

Comforting Smells - Dermalogica Sound Sleep Cocoon

THE BUMPER CATCH-UP REVIEWS EDITION: Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT, Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT Intense, Cacharel Yes I Am EDP, Yardley English Blazer Azure EDP, Jimmy Choo Fever EDP, Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT, Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT, Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT Review

Fragrance Fatigue (noun): The exhaustion experienced by perfume-loving bloggers when confronted by the sheer volume of annual launches. 

I read somewhere recently that almost 2 500 fragrances are launched every year. That’s a lot of fragrances for even the most dedicated of perfume-loving bloggers to get (and smell) through. An impossible task, in fact. The number alone is enough to give me Fragrance Fatigue. So where am I going with this? I recently experienced an impending sense of MFF (Major Fragrance Fatigue) when I realised I had an awful lot of fragrance reviews to catch up on. The second half of the year sees new launches flooding the market, even though we only get a very edited selection in South Africa of what’s launched internationally.

So this post is a bumper catch-up edition, which fortunately saw me overcome my initial fear of Fragrance Fatigue. If I can say so myself, there’s an eclectic mix here.Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT Review

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT (Rodrigo Flores-Roux)

If the superb Diptyque Philosykos is way out of your price range, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT is a very worthwhile substitute. Yes, it’s that good. The 19th addition to the Green Tea range celebrates (this is such a happy fragrance, after all) the pleasures of the fig tree. “I imagined nibbling on juicy, nectar-filled figs while savouring a warm, fragrant cup of tea… all of it happening under the enveloping branches of a fig tree!” says perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux of his inspiration. It opens with an unmistakable and captivating note of fig leaves. This is not a “pure” fig scent, so there’s also Italian bergamot, cedrat, clementine and ivy leaves in the mix. The fig theme is carried through to the heart, with kadota fig mingling with green tea accord, violet leaf and pistachio tree resin. A truly delicious cure for Fragrance Fatigue! R445 for 100ml.

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT Review

Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT Intense (Aurélien Guichard and Fabrice Pellegrin)

When I reviewed Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT last year, I described it as a sombre fragrance – in a good way. The latest version has more of a herbal opening, with notes of rosemary and clary sage, but it’s still firmly in moody territory. The heart sticks to the marine script, with lashings of sea and sea salt notes. There’s also a strong smoky and woody vibe to this EDT. It’s not radically different from the original, but is well worth sniffing out if you’re in the market for a distinctive maritime scent. R1 040 for 50ml and R1 290 for 100ml.

Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT Intense

Cacharel Yes I Am EDP (Honorine Blanc and Christophe Reynaud)

Any discussion of this fragrance is going to start with its love-it-or-hate-it packaging. Object of desire or tacky sex toy? While the scent itself is not as divisive, its “spicy cremoso” will largely influence whether this fragrance with gourmand, floral and fruity characteristics is the one for you. Cacharel defines this innovation as “an eau de parfum based for the first time on the spicy creamy contrast of cream of cardamom”. The fragrance is mostly sweet, but not yuckily so, and more sophisticated than its youthful marketing suggests. R675 for 30ml, R990 for 50ml and R1 100 for 75ml.

Cacharel Yes I Am EDP Review

Yardley English Blazer Azure EDP

Who would have thought that a Yardley English Blazer fragrance could be so intriguing and darn frustrating to place? Listed notes include fresh ginger, nutmeg, amber, cashmeran, vetiver and musk. But there’s something else going on in this powerhouse EDP that I can’t figure out at all. I’m still not sure if this is a good or bad thing. Best you try it yourself and please let me know if you experience the same issue. R379.95 for 100ml.

Yardley English Blazer Azure EDP Review

Jimmy Choo Fever EDP (Nathalie Lorson and Honorine Blanc)

Gourmand meets floral in Jimmy Choo Fever, as in Night Fever. Jimmy Choo fragrances for women have always been on the sweet side of the scent spectrum and this one is no exception. It features a full-on gourmand gathering, courtesy of black plum nectar, lychee, roasted tonka bean, vanilla, hazelnut and coffee notes. Heliotrope, jasmine and vanilla orchid bring in the floral aspect, while notes of creamy sandalwood and benzoin up the sugar content. It’s a loud scent, guaranteed to last from dusk to dawn, and provides a whole new take on the subject of fragrance fatigue. R1 310 for 100ml.

Jimmy Choo Fever EDP Review

FISHING FOR COMPLIMENTS: Those scary creatures in the water are some mighty large koi. I shot this pic at a good friend’s home and wish to assure you that no animals were harmed in its production.

Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT (Philippe Romano)

The Dunhill Desire range was launched in the year 2 000. Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT (not to be confused with Dunhill Desire Blue EDT, although this flanker builds on it) is the seventh addition to the line. No prizes for guessing what it’s about. It has a fresh and invigorating citrus and mint opening that quickly segues into a salty interpretation of its maritime theme, with base notes of patchouli, vetiver and tonka bean rounding it off. It’s an outdoorsy scent that’s refreshingly un-sweet. R1 245 for 100ml.

Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT Review

Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT (Caroline Sabas)

The official inspiration for a fragrance can often make for hilarious and misleading reading. But in the case of Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT, the reality perfectly reflects the inspiration of a summer breeze, complete with wafting notes of lemon, apple, vert de mandarin, rose, osmanthus, jasmine, cedarwood, musks and amber. This is fresh, green, uplifting stuff which, like its namesake, comes and goes, so it requires regular re-applications. At this bargain price, I ain’t complaining. Super! R445 for 100ml.

Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT Review

Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT (Nathalie Lorson)

Following on from the successes of Jimmy Choo Man EDT, Jimmy Choo Man Intense EDT and Jimmy Choo Man Ice EDT, there’s Jimmy Choo Man Blue. This woody-aromatic-leathery EDT opens with a big hit of clary sage essence (I also pick up the bergamot and black pepper notes). The heart goes a little deeper with leather and cypress, while the base features sandalwood, vanilla and um, apparently, vetiver. (What’s it about these listed vetiver notes that are so difficult to smell?) Ostensibly aimed at rebelliously cool 20-somethings, its appeal should extend beyond that demographic due its versatility, wearability and easy-going elegance. R1 110 for 100ml.

Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT Review