January tends to be a very slow month in perfume-land, with a lull in new launches. Probably a very good idea after the always-more-expensive-than-budgeted-for holidays. However, two months into 2018, I’ve got some newbie reviews for you.
Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme EDP
For a while Gucci became known for its middling fragrances. The not bad, but not particularly earth-shatteringly good either variety. That all started to change in 2017 with the release of the leather-licious Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Homme EDP and the white florals-rich Gucci Bloom EDP. You can read those reviews here: http://fragroom.com/2017/07/08/gucci-guilty-absolute-prada-luna-rossa-carbon-thierry-mugler-amen-kryptomint/ and http://fragroom.com/2017/11/29/female-floral-fragrances-for-men/. These stand-out fragrances, collaborations between Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele and master perfumer Alberto Morillas, made it clear that the Italian luxury brand was back in the fragrance game.
Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme is also an Alberto Morillas creation. Like its male counterpart, it takes some bold risks. It opens with an unmistakable blackberry note, luscious and intriguing. But it’s not just big on fruit. A Bulgarian rose develops in the background, adding to the richness, while also tempering the sweetness. Those familiar with Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Homme might recognise the Goldenwood note, an extract of the nootka cypress which brings a dense woodiness to the proceedings. The patchouli base completes the sensuality.
While undeniably lavish, Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme is also very wearable, for both women and men. Michele wanted an unconventional romantic fragrance and Morillas has more than delivered on the brief. Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme EDP, R1 005 for 30ml, R1 385 for 50ml and R1 825 for 90ml.
“While undeniably lavish, Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme is also very wearable, for both women and men.”
Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Him
It seems like I reviewed new Boss The Scent fragrances very recently. Such is the relentless cycle of modern perfumery. Establish the pillar and follow with a succession of flankers. The follow-up to Boss The Scent For Him Intense comes in a super-sexy flacon. The juice is surprisingly subtle for a male seduction scent. Maninka fruit, sourced from South Africa, is still at the heart of it, with ginger, orris concrete and patchouli notes in support. Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Him, R1 660 for 100ml.
Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Her
If Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Him is curiously understated, the female version is positively on steroids. It opens with a big honeyed peach note that’s love-it-or-hate-it stuff. Osmanthus absolute, cistus absolute and roasted cocoa also feature in the mix. Talking of relentless cycles, Boss The Scent EDT For Her will be launched in April. I can’t keep up. Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Her, R1 375 for 50ml.
Hugo Urban Journey EDT
The latest addition to the long-running Hugo franchise is all about urban adventure. The grey, textured flacon captures that perfectly. The juice itself, although not particularly urban, is fresh, accessible and pleasant, with notes of Himalayan whorl flower, black tea and guaiac wood. Although not officially listed, I get a big marine whiff from this EDT that will go down well with its target market. Hugo Urban Journey EDT, R845 for 75ml and R1 155 for 125ml.
Bulgari Splendida Magnolia Sensuel EDP
Launched in 2017, the Bulgari Splendida line focuses on the most celebrated flowers in perfumery. So far we’ve had Bulgari Splendida Rose Rose EDP, Bulgari Splendida Iris d’Or EDP and Bulgari Splendida Jasmin Noir EDP. The latest, Bulgari Splendida Magnolia Sensuel EDP, was created by master perfumer Jacques Cavallier (Pasha de Cartier, L’Eau d’Issey, Lancôme Poeme, YSL M7).
There’s a green-ish opening to Bulgari Splendida Magnolia Sensuel, courtesy of mandarin and neroli essences. And then a big hit of Chinese magnolia comes through, with orange flower and jasmine absolute also noticeable. The sensual aspect is further enhanced by the base notes of patchouli, musk and vanilla.
“It all adds up to create a terrifically expensive- and luxurious-smelling scent.”
It all adds up to create a terrifically expensive- and luxurious-smelling scent (with a price tag to match). My only gripe is that like its namesake, this magnolia is all too brief on my skin. Bulgari Splendida Magnolia Sensuel EDP, R1 500 for 50ml and R2 115 for 100ml.